Discussion Topic |
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
Lanham MD
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 20, 2007 - 11:16am PT
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I was thinking about this route randomly the other day...is it still unrepeated? As far as I know, Kauk climbed it on pre-placed gear and it hasn't been touched since.
Aside from the fact that it's ridiculously hard, why hasn't anyone tried to repeat it? There are folks out there who could definately get it based on their climbing history...or so it would seem.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 20, 2007 - 11:47am PT
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I've talked with Kauk several times lately about Magic Line. FA December '96 all trad with some pro pre-placed. That climb, and Ron's advice from the master about how to approach new Valley lines, are prominent in an article of mine that's about to hit the street in Rock & Ice.
Yes, it is still unrepeated in spite of several people giving it a try. Ron thinks no one has stuck with it long enough yet.
Recall the story from his book about how only after he gave up wanting the achievement, could he then get up the route.
Go take a look. It's a nice walk up there.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
Lanham MD
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2007 - 12:01pm PT
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Wow, what timing! I'll definately pick up that issue when it comes out. Do you have a street date?
Man, I'd love to check it out sometime. I live in Maryland, so taking a walk up there is out of the picture...I'll be in the valley most of next summer, though.
I'm sure it's in the article, but how long did he work it (I haven't read his book...I'll have to)
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 20, 2007 - 12:13pm PT
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It's the line on the left. A wicked line up the face of K2. It's been done only once, too.
Mal
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 20, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
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The issue got shipped to the printer over a week ago, so on the street in maybe two weeks?
Get Ron's book. My favorite piece in it is about "getting inside the move." One of those tricks to slow down and look at it from a new perspective that reinforced something I had been approaching unconsciously and brought it out into the light by giving it a name and some shape. Kind of like moving over stone meets yoga. It's been informing my climbing-as-a-practice ever since.
Dunno how long he worked the route. Awhile, for sure. My piece comes at it from a different angle.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Nov 20, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
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Mal,
Which Magic Line do you think is harder to climb?
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nov 20, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
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Has anyone done a ground up ascent of Magic Line?
(no preplacement)...
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 20, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
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No.
No repeat of any kind.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 20, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
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i think so Joe-D.
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CF
climber
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Dug out these photos for ya.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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cool photos!
Hey DR, Awesome article in Rock and Ice, I really enjoyed it! Great blend of the adventure of new routing and history, thanks!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Nice, CF!
That second shot looks like one from Pirates of the Caribiners! Arrrrrrr!!!
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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A beautiful line but the second ascent may be awhile. Not too many 5.14 sport climbers in Yosemite who want to hike to Vernal when El Cap is next to the road. I believe some of the footholds have fallen off and there was talk of super glue (not entirely confirmed) on some of the tiny chips. Todd Skinner tried this line a few times and there was a fixed line up there for awhile.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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CF,
Thanks so much for your cool photos. No amount of shuffling around the base bring the climb home like your aerial perspective of the Man in action.
caughtinside,
Glad you liked the article. Lots of hard work and heart went into it. Curious, are you the guy who wrote the book of the same name? If so, hats off to you! Fine writing. I bought it for my 14-year-old who is ripping it up in the same waters, so he could get a deeper perspective. One of the best surf books ever!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Hey DR, thanks again.
No, can't take credit for the book, the username and the book were an unknown coincidence.
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crøtch
climber
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One of the best surf books ever!
Agreed. It's a love story about water.
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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I read in one of the rags that some French guys were gonna rap bolt the Magic Line on K2. Some California guys heard about it, and threatened to chop it if it weren't done ground up. Some Brits are currently working to headpoint it, but so far can't get the move past the serac without tension.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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When Kauk was working on that thing, it was rumored a possible 5.15.
Who really knows how hard it is? This wicked thin crap is Kauk's strength and everybody else's weakness. He could have rated it 5.15 and nobody could have said anything but "Kauk's never climbed 5.14 much if all all so how could it be?"
Funny, one of the few 5.14s in the world that you can (or maybe should) climb in a bus-like boot like Kaukulators.
Peace
Karl
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
Lanham MD
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2007 - 02:15pm PT
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DR, I just read your R&I article. Great piece of work! I enjoyed immensly on a rainy, Friday afternoon in the city.
Cheers,
Matt
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WBraun
climber
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I think it was Royal Robins that did the first ascent on aid a long time ago.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I too assumed this was a thread about K2.
I knew of Kauk's 5.14 crack, but didn't know he called it thus. Cool! Shouldn't we go sicc Tommy on it?
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Broken
climber
Texas
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Karl wrote: "Funny, one of the few 5.14s in the world that you can (or maybe should) climb in a bus-like boot like Kaukulators."
I noticed that Kauk sent it in Miuras in the video, Kaukulators in the photos.
Wonder if he climbed it cleanly in both pairs....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 28, 2011 - 02:33am PT
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bump
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 28, 2011 - 03:06am PT
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Has anyone done a ground up ascent of Magic Line?
(no preplacement)... You gotta love Bachar's subtlety!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 28, 2011 - 09:23am PT
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What issue of R &I was that?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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In reference to The Warbler's comment:
908. Dihedral Wall 5.14a
929. Magic Mushroom - free 5.14a
946. Nose Free 5.14a
1718. Washington Column - South Face 5.14a or 5.8 C1
1944. Magic Line 5.14b
478. Meltdown (2) 5.14
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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May 20, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
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Sweet Photos above. Bump!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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May 20, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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Back in March we noticed a fixed line on Meltdown. If T. Caldwell tried it and couldn't get it, I'm guessing it'll be a while before a second?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:04am PT
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bump for Magic Line. Another year gone by without a 2nd.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 05:58am PT
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Mal, when I saw the title I thought of K2 as well.
Wish Casarotto could have got it, with all the vision and work he put in to it. His death in a crevasse fall near the K2 basecamp after finally giving up on it was tragic.
A Polish team ended up getting later that season it but I think at least one member died on the descent.
Don't think it's ever seen a second ascent.
Hard core.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 28, 2012 - 10:12am PT
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Someone told me his son Lonnie on sight flashed the second ascent placing his gear on lead sometime late this year.
I was told he cruised it effortlessly .......
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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I'd believe that - Lonnie is wicked strong
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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yeah that seems quite plausible.
The legacy route on Vernal Falls was "The Right Side of Vernal Falls: Al Steck, Jim Wilson, Dick Long in October, 1966. II 5.8 A1. You started from the left side of the Falls and crossed it to access a jamcrack and chimney 60 feet below the top. It looks like it was two pitches. I don't think Magic Line was originally nailed by RR. I can't find record of it anyway. It is highly likely that people did nail it though as a tiny practice pitch. it is only about 50 feet off the trail and a natural feature that normally would have been pinned out badly by this point, were it not for its obscurity.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
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I believe he sent it too on his 40th birthday. That's so rad!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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could have been his 30th...
Plausible for sure. That kid takes after his dad in so many ways.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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There's an interview of Lonnie Kauk, by Hazel Findlay, published in October 2012.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4972
It implies he had not repeated Magic Line as of the date of the interview.
He could have done it later in October, or in November.
Or the interview could be wrong - it was stated as background material and he was not asked about it directly.
The article does state that he and Alex Honnold have repeated Crossroads and that it is 5.13d (vs. 5.13a in the guidebook).
And in a different article, Alex said it's 5.13d, and that he also linked Phantom to Crossroads to make Phantom Road, also 5.13d.
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-honnold-sends-book-hate-513d-and-more
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 28, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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Talked to Lonnie's belayer and he said Lonnie fell and did not repeat Magic Line.
So my initial report was inaccurate and completely wrong.
Stupid me ......
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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Thanks for the update, Werner.
It's still cool to hear he tried it. (Didn't make it; well that happens and we know it is very hard...).
I wonder if Alex has looked at it or tried it?
He says he's not very good as bouldery stuff, though.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Feb 25, 2015 - 09:11pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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How did we ever let this line become something other than the perfect aid climbing crack?!
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Ya - I thought a bit surprising. He's placing gear on lead too. He's put a bit of effort into Meltdown as well but I don't know how close he is to sending it.
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brett
climber
oregon
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Sheets, interesting how Carlo got flipped by his rope despite keeping it over the thigh.
Looks like he stepped through the rope above his piece. Should have kept the rope between his legs if he was going to have a foot right of the crack.
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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I'm always amused by people who comment on videos of some highly experienced climber on an extremely hard route and criticize his technique.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Ron's FA 20years ago proud!
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brett
climber
oregon
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I ain't criticizing, just answering the question of why he got flipped in that fall. You're right, I don't know the best way to do that move. Maybe stepping through the rope is the only feasible move there and getting flipped on the fall is just part of the cost of working that move ground up.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Ron's FA 20years ago proud!
Yes, and also it was a lot of work , time and hiking. He did around 60 times approach to the base of climb [ if I remember correctly] before he sent it.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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How many quality routes are there that go 20+ years unrepeated? What an incredible talent Ron is.
Who else has been up there to give it a go? Does James know? Given how Keenan cruised Top Gun I wonder if he has taken a burn on ML.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Lonnie Kauk did second assent of Magic line just two days before the New Year 2016. His daddy belayed him!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Such a proud repeat
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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What an apropos and proud second ascent team.
Obviously gene-dependent; non-Kauks need not apply.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 16, 2017 - 09:31am PT
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The things I dreamed of....
Congratulations Lonnie!
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Nov 16, 2018 - 10:32am PT
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makes me want to poach bison for him. talk, talk, talk. mine, not worth much.
Seriously, congratulations, some things require generations...
edit: Sometimes you have to go, and get it. It's not always given to you. If you're lucky it was..., what do you do with it? talk talk talk. seriously, congratulations
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Nov 16, 2018 - 10:33am PT
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Bravo Lonnie !
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Nov 16, 2018 - 02:18pm PT
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My last post here. To him? Not to cut another down...
It seems that some climbers talk about a spirituality. Some may have been rewarded for it too. I had a teacher in college. She said, in the 60's, maybe when they were organizing, her culture was sometimes co-opted by others. They didn't really appreciate it.
Relative to other sports, it seems that sustaining yourself simply by climbing is more difficult, even if you're near the top of the game. It would be nice to see resources distributed with some perspective. I'd like to see Lonnie called ambassador, or something similar.
He was given a name, and when it comes down to it, I bet that is enough. Moreover, he seems to have worked, and lived up to it. Still, we all have to eat.
Titles can come with responsibilities too. He seems to have met some of his. Furthermore, I'm sure he has a unique perspective about the places we enjoy climbing. Certainly, a unique history that he shares with those closest to him, those from the same place. If he's pushing climbing, he seems grounded.
My 2 cents. Don't want to speak for anyone. Finally, a friend was recently posting on Facebook about going on a 4 day vision quest/fast. Someone typed, day one, tell them you realized it sucks to be hungry, go to the grocery store, get some things together, and find someone people who need a meal. Every place is different, but some are still more hungry than others.
I hope to not co-opt anything. Apologies if I've gone places, important to others, where I wasn't necessarily welcomed. If invited to hunt, maybe at best, hold the line, knowing enough to stay out of the way, while enjoying being there? If lucky, uncles and aunties first?, or especially to those deserving or in need. The days are growing shorter, I have to go. Really, congratulations. Hope the good comes back to you, the goods come back to you.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 16, 2018 - 04:10pm PT
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the climb's location is a very special place in the Valley
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 16, 2018 - 07:53pm PT
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I think I prognosticated on this 'style' coming back elsewhere, but I'll say it again. The days of the hard pink points masquerading as real red points are over.
Either you're on the cutting edge and making longer 100 meter routes at >9a+, or you're doing things like this. Coming back to style. Coming back to showing how it is done on hard stuff going ground up placing gear as you go. Onsight Magic Line with no preplaced gear? How about that as the next thing out there?
Me, on the other hand, I'm moving to pre-placed gear, pulling on draws, and general trickery!
PS - Black Diamond still hasn't called me to sponsor me. #callme
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Nov 17, 2018 - 05:44am PT
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Fantastic.
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| Messages 1 - 64 of total 64 in this topic |
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