What is it about Arch Rock?

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caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2007 - 02:42pm PT
that makes the climbing so good, and so stout for the grades?!?!

I've been there 3x now and gotten my ass kicked every time! When I hike down that talus I'm always bleeding and babbling incoherently!

You tell other climbers you're heading to Arch, and they wish you good luck!

what is it about that place? sandbagged? physical? mandatory wide? few face features? My first trip there left me dry heaving after doing the first pitch of Gripper--on toprope!

And why do I like it so much???
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Apr 3, 2007 - 03:09pm PT
It's so sunny. Best to climb there in the mornings in August to gain a real appreciation of the place.
the chemist

climber
Palo Alto, CA
Apr 3, 2007 - 06:22pm PT
I went there for the first time on Saturday, and I'm not sure I like it. But I definitely intend to do a bit more research before making a decision. Somehow I feel like Arch might taste a bit better if I was wearing knee pads.

Evan
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 3, 2007 - 06:25pm PT
Arch Rock sucked the first few times I went, and then it got fun.

We usually eat breakfast at the entrance station. More than once someone has gone up and come back down before we were done w/ breakfast.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 3, 2007 - 06:42pm PT
nuthin' better than arch rock on a sunny day in february. used to go there a couple times a week. grades always seemed pretty right-on to me, with the possible exception of the first pitch of new d which seemed harder than the last pitch by a country mile and got 10b in the '86 meyers' guide. my vote for best crack crag in the valley...i liked it even more than the cookie, probably because the climbs were well spaced out and the crag didn't feel as "crowded" as the cookie...and the shape...like a small monolith...damn, arch just about has it all. all killer, no filler.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 3, 2007 - 06:51pm PT
Great lines, south facing, great winter area. As for the 'ass kicking' most of the lines were established a long time ago and standards are softer, now.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2007 - 06:52pm PT
jaybro, so are the climbers, if I'm any example! sheesh!

I liked the Warbler's list though, bvb's too.
Mimi

climber
Apr 3, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
Right on descriptions Kevin et. al! Arch Rock is such an awesome place to climb.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 3, 2007 - 06:56pm PT
Arch is great.

The left side however has a bad vibe.

Bad things have happened there.

My partner came about as close to serious head injury as possible and still walked, on the left side of Arch.

All I can remember, except for that day, is really liking it there,
the routes and the place.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 3, 2007 - 06:59pm PT
Caught, oh yeah!- Jay-soft-bro.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 3, 2007 - 07:17pm PT
yeah I led Torque Converter and thought it was stiff - high quality though, harder than 1st pitch of Blind Faith.

here's a pic of the main - note dark evil vibe left side...
[Click to View Linked Image]
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 3, 2007 - 07:24pm PT
yeah joe, me and tom lindner did goldfingers in '87 and wound up at the scariest hanging belay EVAR. buncha tiny stoppers that would all rip with a good upward yank, and no decent directional down placements to protect against that. lindner led the next pitch and i spent so much time moaning about the belay i think i psyched him out. he led the next pitch feeling like he was soloing. dicey. grade seemed about right but that hanging belay...oooomph. never again.

prolly bolted by now.....
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 3, 2007 - 07:29pm PT
bvb - there were discussions about installing a proper belay there in the late 80's - I wonder if it happened?
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 3, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
Hey, caught...let us know if you think Goldfingers is a 12b or is really more like a 12c, m-kay?

:-p :-p :-p
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2007 - 10:10pm PT
I will, um, get right on that.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 3, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
How 'bout the gripper? One the best climbs of its grade anywhere.

Tom
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 3, 2007 - 10:43pm PT
I like your killer prose Kevin.
No filler.
Mimi

climber
Apr 3, 2007 - 10:55pm PT
Ditto Roy.

Ray, what's with that bad vibe at Arch? Been there done that.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 4, 2007 - 12:11am PT
Three of us did Anticipation once. The guy who led the 5.11b layback pitch brought the two of up and then announced that the next pitch was loose 5.10 and he was rapping off and it was our responsibility to finish the climb and bring down all the gear.
Fun route.

Bruce

ps - does anybody(else?) ever do Sidetrack to get off from Midterm? Another cool Arch rock pitch!

Edit - changed Applicaton to Anticipation. Minor brain fart.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:02am PT
for my money, midterm is the best single-pitch route 5.10 route in the valley, and the standard for 10b. prolly climbed it 50 times. had it so dialed i'd do it on with pieces -- a #3 freind in the hands, and a #4 friend right before the one or two move OW section exiting into the bomber "chimmney" (which is a cheater's chimney compared to the 2nd pitch of manana -- that squeeze is stout)...

got SO pumped. plus the absence of pro...
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