What is it about Arch Rock?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 21 - 40 of total 141 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:06am PT
screw permission.

this is the inTARDweb.

give it up, babe!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:10am PT
RE:
"Ray, what's with that bad vibe at Arch? Been there done that."


There is a history of near miss action in the recess (dark rock) on the far left side - no joke it's kinda bad juju over there. Karine and I were climbing Anticipation and she had a really close call.

the recess is distinctly different than the rest of the crag with it's "happy vibe" , IMHO.

The story of Karine's close call still gets my pulse going.
Mimi

climber
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:17am PT
Would that be Anticipation?

Wow, that's spooky. I had a similar experience on Gripper.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:29am PT
I think New Dimensions is my favorite 11a crack route in the entire universe. Midterm is the cleanest and varied 10a/b around and the last pitch of Gripper is all time. The other stuff is harder but not as classic IMO.

You know anyone who ever led Quicky Quizes?

JL
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:30am PT
Go for it Joe...I had my own near death experience there...other than that Arch Rock is an awesome crag. I actually met Largo there. Don't know if he remembers but it was in the spring of 73. I was doing the Gripper and he and some of his buddies showed up and were inquiring about Leanie Meanie which Donini (that sort of rhymes) dragged me up the previous fall.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:30am PT
Karine was trying to lead the second pitch (Anticipation), not moving great - clipped the fixed nut, made a move placed a piece, moved up and tried to place again.

I saw it was not going well. She blew the clip, (slack out) and moved to down climb (slipped), reached down for the nut above the fixed copperhead - shakey - lifted the nut out and was off - over backwards airborne..

Her back arched and she started to swing head first toward the corner - upside down - sailing through the air in a surprisingly big arch.

I went into auto - all the slack, the corners, I yarded in the line one two three, and caught her bare handed. Shortened her fall as her head hit (hard) the wall with a loud pop.

I figured that was it. Dead or major trauma - I planned the lower and piggy back carry to the Ranger Station but - she was "ok".

Big bloody lump. Her retina's were fine. I kept checking, finally let her drive home. She came back and got the gear later.

Scared the pee pee outa 'ol Raydog.
WBraun

climber
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:31am PT
You know anyone who ever led Quicky Quizes?

I never led them, just free soloed.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:38am PT
Watched Eric Goukas solo Leanie Meanie one day, I think I turned away as he started the OW. Pretty Burly man.

Sorry if I misspelled his name.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:44am PT
Mark wrote: "Arch Rock is an awesome crag. I actually met Largo there. Don't know if he remembers but it was in the spring of 73. I was doing the Gripper and he and some of his buddies showed up and were inquiring about Leanie Meanie which Donini (that sort of rhymes) dragged me up the previous fall."

Dood, I have a memory like an elephant for that kind of shite - can't remember other stuff at all. Couldn't tell you why.

So of course I remember metting you. But I'm pretrty sure it was '72, not '73. You were there with George Meyers. We'd all grew up together in the Valley.

I always liked Arch Rock because aside from a few moves on Ant., there's nothing there where my fat fingers would hold me back. I could pull good jams on most everything there.

Warner, I walked below Quicky Quizes 1,000 times and never did them. Don't know why.

JL
Mimi

climber
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:45am PT
Ray, must've been the summer '86 that you watched Eric in action?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:52am PT
RE:
" Ray, must've been the summer '86 that you watched Eric in action?"

yeah it must have been - I recall being pretty blown away.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 4, 2007 - 01:59am PT
Wow - another barehanded grab.

I have often wondered how much harder Karine's head would have hit the cliff had I not taken in so much slack and caught her fall with my hands. I will never forget the sound her head made when it hit the cliff - or how the situation felt - way way close.

Mimi...the Gripper story?

Mimi

climber
Apr 4, 2007 - 02:26am PT
Good thing Karine has such a hard head.

A hip belay got away from me on Gripper. Partner took a big one, only dinged her knee, and as Werner said that day, "It was not her day to die." Weird circumstances led me to think we shouldn't go out that morning or to that climb. Black luck day.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 4, 2007 - 02:34am PT
Ah, good ol' hip belays.

There was once maybe twice where I at (then) 125-129lbs thought that maybe I was hosed catching and holding dudes checking in at like 180 plus. Times when I really had to hang on hard. Times when I thought the frickin' rope was gonna slice me in two.

Ever get your brake hand mashed into a corner while catching/holding with a hip belay?

Hip belays and swamis.

PS Glad you're still with us Chappy.

Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Apr 4, 2007 - 02:36am PT
Remember in the late 1980s that the left side of Arch Rock was a lot of fun, especially in February. Went up there and did "The Bin" (5.10d OW) with Greg Murphy and then went back and repeated it quite a few times. The crawl through the cave filled with bat guano at the top wasn't too enjoyable, but the overhanging OW to get there was terrific. Nice orange rock.

Then, Elliot Robinson got into the act & did SAT and GRE, a pumping thin 5.12a and a great 5.11 OW roof just to the left of "The Bin".

What's wrong with the left side of Arch exactly? Does anyone ever go up there?
Mimi

climber
Apr 4, 2007 - 02:38am PT
I don't think it's just Arch Rock. I think there's powerful good and bad juju in the Valley as a whole. My nickel's worth.

Yeah, really Mark. Good catch Bruce!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 4, 2007 - 02:41am PT
Nothing Bruce - I recall those climbs you mention looking really cool. A few bad things happened there and for a few people the place has taken on a mystique.

RE:" I think there's powerful good and bad juju in the Valley as a whole."

Native American burial ground juju. Strange sh#t - Yerian is a good one for those stories.

There's some weird energy around the theater, too.



John Moosie

climber
Apr 4, 2007 - 03:02am PT
Sounds more like good juju then bad. Two hand saves keeping people from serious injury after heinous falls. Scary falls, no serious injuries= good juju in my book.

I tore my achilles tendon dancing in church with a 70 year old woman. I would trade a 150' fall that you walk away from for my torn up achilles tendon anyday. Might scare the bejeebus out of you, but he walked away.

Moosie
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 4, 2007 - 03:04am PT
RE:
" Good thing Karine has such a hard head. "

someone had to say it
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Apr 4, 2007 - 10:51am PT
Ray said: "Ah, good ol' hip belays." and I couldn't resist adding a graphic:


Messages 21 - 40 of total 141 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta