rope soloing state of the art?

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granite_messiah

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2018 - 03:57pm PT
I'm in the process of developing my rope solo system for lead climbing, and I'd like some input (other than "yer gonna die!") regarding current methods, gear, etc. I've looked at a number of online resoures from folks like Matt Hunter, healyje, Andy Kirkpatrick, etc but much of this information is years old and may be outdated. Here are a few of the subjects I'm seeking input on:

solo belay device - it seems like the new Revo device from Wild Country is getting some good reviews for this use, so I'm leaning toward this. Most people seem to use grigris modified to orient the device so the rope feeds through properly, so this seems to be a well-traveled path although I don't really like the idea of having to modify the device. The Edelrid Eddy, championed by healyje, apparently requires no such modification. Devices specifically developed for rope soloing, like the Silent Parnter, Soloist, etc, are basically unavailable unless you want to buy an old used one off ebay.

ascender - after leading the pitch, building a top anchor and abseiling back down, the rope solo climber must ascend the rope and clean the route. The petzl micro traxion seems like one of the most popular options for this. Any pros/cons for other alternatives?

rope in backpack or trailing down - some climbers report problems with their belay device if the weight of the trailing rope is hanging off of it, so they carry the rope in a backpack as they climb (e.g. Matt Hunter's youtube video). Others address this problem by introducing another device into the configuration to hold the weight of the trailing rope. This is dependent on which belay device is being used as not all devices have a problem when loaded with the weight of the trailing rope. And there is also the consideration that a trailing rope could get caught on something, so that's an advantage of carrying the rope in a backpack.

Please chime in with your opinions regarding the above subjects and other data regarding your rope solo setups for lead climbing. This is not a troll post. I genuinely would like to see some discussion and input as I prepare to enter this new world of climbing.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
May 14, 2018 - 05:10pm PT
Yur


Gonna


Die
L

climber
Just livin' the dream on the California coast
May 14, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
Yur


Gonna


Die

But since he's the "messiah", he'll rise again.....right?
WBraun

climber
May 14, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
Buy the Revo device from Wild Country and start climbing.

There's only one way to do it, ..... start climbing.

Thinking about it and talking about it ain't gonna get you anywhere as far as experience goes.

Test your system on a single pitch off the ground.

DON"T DECK ......

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
May 14, 2018 - 06:20pm PT
Those retracting seat belt things that come with your car have always held promise for soloing but no one wants to lose resale value.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 14, 2018 - 06:31pm PT
just a note that the rope hanging down works great with the Eddy as the rope path is opposite of the grigri and is basically designed for that modality. I just personally kind of loathe climbing with it hanging down so I don't. But because I don't, I always have to make sure I have enough slack out of the pack for a good loop of rope to hang below the device as that is the way it optimally want's to be - with both sides of the rope hanging down. The second either side ends up above the device it trips, particularly the supply side.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
May 14, 2018 - 06:36pm PT
Of course they won't Del. It was obviously a joke.

DISCLAIMER: Anyone stoopid enough to use a car seat belt device for solo rock climbing is... GONNA DIE !

So don't do it.
WBraun

climber
May 14, 2018 - 06:58pm PT
I can't wait to use my car seat belt device for solo rock climbing ....
granite_messiah

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:05pm PT
I'm listening....it does give me pause that the Revo is a new device. I might go with the Eddy instead since it has a proven track record of success.

Any other links or advice you might want to throw in here would be greatly appreciated. I'm vacuuming up everything I can find online, but maybe I missed something. This is a completely new mode of climbing for me so I'd like to learn from the wealth of experience here.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
May 14, 2018 - 07:05pm PT
the Silent Partner was basically a seat belt retracter. I bet one could be adapted to climbing
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 14, 2018 - 07:09pm PT
I always had good results (i.e., I didn't die) with a Soloist.

But if you use it...

...yer gonna die.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
May 14, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
The first rule of soloing is; don't fall.

Does anyone else have some soloing rules ?

OP, You seem fixated on devices and manufactured conveniences when you use "out of date" to ask about soloing with a rope. Whatever you do, that rope and how it is connected to the anchor and you in order to stop you from taking the big ride, is what's most important.

Don't climb too far above your back up knot regardless of how much faith you put in the latest "automatically will catch you, metal thing".
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 14, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
Anyone wants to send me a Revo I'll demo it and check it out compared to the Eddy - could be the great white whale of lead rope soloing or it could be a complete dud, no way to know without giving it a whirl. Otherwise, I'm fine with my Eddy until I can test one against it.
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
May 14, 2018 - 07:59pm PT
I use a GriGri because a) I already own one b) I'm not a pussy and c) I don't climb fast enough to be concerned about how the rope "feeds."

I like to keep the extra rope on me (in a bag on my harness usually) unless it is really really steep and there is zero wind. This preference came about after several sketchy experiences.

I clean on two jumars, just like normal cleaning. A minitrax (or similar) really doesn't add anything IMO.

Everything that can go wrong always does, but only when you're soloing. Definitely practice on single pitches. Alot.

Hauling with one person is LOADS of fun.

You will die.

Yer gunna
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
May 14, 2018 - 08:02pm PT
I'd suggest just doing it. I do it with the grigri, haven't f*#ked around with the Eddy yet, though I own it.


Like life, you will seriously f*#king die. And, like masturbation, you'll never get off if you don't try.


Safety knots, like condoms, detract from the sensation. So just try it, don't fall, and you will still always die. Couch sound better?

hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
May 14, 2018 - 08:56pm PT
Jim's idea for using a seat belt has lots of potential. However, hauling the car could be a bitch.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 14, 2018 - 10:42pm PT
I had high hopes for the Tesla 'AutoBelay 3', but now I'm having second thoughts.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
May 14, 2018 - 10:54pm PT
i'm converting a yukon xl for glamping and have something like 6 seat belt retractors removed i'll let you have for the cost of one revo.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 15, 2018 - 06:17am PT
Hamie, please tell me you're here all week. Killah! Like rope soloing.

BAd
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
May 15, 2018 - 06:54am PT
I used a Rock Exotica Soloist. Climbed a lot of routes with it. Only real problem is you need to have a back up loop of rope attached to you. It will not hold a fall if you get inverted. Roped solo climbing is a lot of work but the rewards are worth it.
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