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granite_messiah
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2018 - 03:57pm PT
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I'm in the process of developing my rope solo system for lead climbing, and I'd like some input (other than "yer gonna die!") regarding current methods, gear, etc. I've looked at a number of online resoures from folks like Matt Hunter, healyje, Andy Kirkpatrick, etc but much of this information is years old and may be outdated. Here are a few of the subjects I'm seeking input on:
solo belay device - it seems like the new Revo device from Wild Country is getting some good reviews for this use, so I'm leaning toward this. Most people seem to use grigris modified to orient the device so the rope feeds through properly, so this seems to be a well-traveled path although I don't really like the idea of having to modify the device. The Edelrid Eddy, championed by healyje, apparently requires no such modification. Devices specifically developed for rope soloing, like the Silent Parnter, Soloist, etc, are basically unavailable unless you want to buy an old used one off ebay.
ascender - after leading the pitch, building a top anchor and abseiling back down, the rope solo climber must ascend the rope and clean the route. The petzl micro traxion seems like one of the most popular options for this. Any pros/cons for other alternatives?
rope in backpack or trailing down - some climbers report problems with their belay device if the weight of the trailing rope is hanging off of it, so they carry the rope in a backpack as they climb (e.g. Matt Hunter's youtube video). Others address this problem by introducing another device into the configuration to hold the weight of the trailing rope. This is dependent on which belay device is being used as not all devices have a problem when loaded with the weight of the trailing rope. And there is also the consideration that a trailing rope could get caught on something, so that's an advantage of carrying the rope in a backpack.
Please chime in with your opinions regarding the above subjects and other data regarding your rope solo setups for lead climbing. This is not a troll post. I genuinely would like to see some discussion and input as I prepare to enter this new world of climbing.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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May 14, 2018 - 05:10pm PT
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Yur
Gonna
Die
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream on the California coast
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May 14, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
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Yur
Gonna
Die
But since he's the "messiah", he'll rise again.....right?
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WBraun
climber
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May 14, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
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Buy the Revo device from Wild Country and start climbing.
There's only one way to do it, ..... start climbing.
Thinking about it and talking about it ain't gonna get you anywhere as far as experience goes.
Test your system on a single pitch off the ground.
DON"T DECK ......
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 14, 2018 - 06:31pm PT
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just a note that the rope hanging down works great with the Eddy as the rope path is opposite of the grigri and is basically designed for that modality. I just personally kind of loathe climbing with it hanging down so I don't. But because I don't, I always have to make sure I have enough slack out of the pack for a good loop of rope to hang below the device as that is the way it optimally want's to be - with both sides of the rope hanging down. The second either side ends up above the device it trips, particularly the supply side.
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WBraun
climber
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May 14, 2018 - 06:58pm PT
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I can't wait to use my car seat belt device for solo rock climbing ....
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granite_messiah
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2018 - 07:05pm PT
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I'm listening....it does give me pause that the Revo is a new device. I might go with the Eddy instead since it has a proven track record of success.
Any other links or advice you might want to throw in here would be greatly appreciated. I'm vacuuming up everything I can find online, but maybe I missed something. This is a completely new mode of climbing for me so I'd like to learn from the wealth of experience here.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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May 14, 2018 - 07:05pm PT
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the Silent Partner was basically a seat belt retracter. I bet one could be adapted to climbing
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 14, 2018 - 07:09pm PT
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I always had good results (i.e., I didn't die) with a Soloist.
But if you use it...
...yer gonna die.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 14, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
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Anyone wants to send me a Revo I'll demo it and check it out compared to the Eddy - could be the great white whale of lead rope soloing or it could be a complete dud, no way to know without giving it a whirl. Otherwise, I'm fine with my Eddy until I can test one against it.
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fat-n-sassy
Social climber
San Francity, CA
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May 14, 2018 - 07:59pm PT
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I use a GriGri because a) I already own one b) I'm not a pussy and c) I don't climb fast enough to be concerned about how the rope "feeds."
I like to keep the extra rope on me (in a bag on my harness usually) unless it is really really steep and there is zero wind. This preference came about after several sketchy experiences.
I clean on two jumars, just like normal cleaning. A minitrax (or similar) really doesn't add anything IMO.
Everything that can go wrong always does, but only when you're soloing. Definitely practice on single pitches. Alot.
Hauling with one person is LOADS of fun.
You will die.
Yer gunna
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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May 14, 2018 - 08:02pm PT
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I'd suggest just doing it. I do it with the grigri, haven't f*#ked around with the Eddy yet, though I own it.
Like life, you will seriously f*#king die. And, like masturbation, you'll never get off if you don't try.
Safety knots, like condoms, detract from the sensation. So just try it, don't fall, and you will still always die. Couch sound better?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 14, 2018 - 08:56pm PT
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Jim's idea for using a seat belt has lots of potential. However, hauling the car could be a bitch.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 14, 2018 - 10:42pm PT
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I had high hopes for the Tesla 'AutoBelay 3', but now I'm having second thoughts.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 14, 2018 - 10:54pm PT
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i'm converting a yukon xl for glamping and have something like 6 seat belt retractors removed i'll let you have for the cost of one revo.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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May 15, 2018 - 06:17am PT
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Hamie, please tell me you're here all week. Killah! Like rope soloing.
BAd
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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May 15, 2018 - 06:54am PT
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I used a Rock Exotica Soloist. Climbed a lot of routes with it. Only real problem is you need to have a back up loop of rope attached to you. It will not hold a fall if you get inverted. Roped solo climbing is a lot of work but the rewards are worth it.
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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May 15, 2018 - 07:17am PT
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Anyone try the GriGri +
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WBraun
climber
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May 15, 2018 - 07:23am PT
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I also used a Rock Exotica Soloist, but never backed it up nor tied into the end of the rope, (just left it hanging in free space).
Too much trouble backing it up at the speed I was moving ..... lol.
I only used it to free climb soloing.
It only served me as a psychological tool pretty much ......
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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May 15, 2018 - 07:24am PT
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the Silent Partner was basically a seat belt retracter. I bet one could be adapted to climbing
Calling EKat-you have another fire to put out:)
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