Bolting between existing cracks at Suicide rock

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bootysatva

Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2017 - 07:28am PT
A new line of bolts has appeared between Grahm Crackers and The Guillotine.
It is easy to clip the new bolts while leading The Guillotine.
Now that most of the guys like me that have climbed here for decades, are not around much ( or at all ) this could get more common.
Years ago I would have been back the next day to remove them.
I wanted to have a conversation about it first.

Ernesto ale
Ojai Alex

Trad climber
Alex Bury
Oct 9, 2017 - 07:49am PT
I smell something cooking. Smells like chop suey.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Oct 9, 2017 - 07:51am PT
Been 40+ yrs. since I've climbed there.
Are these bolts that protect a new route or are they convenience bolts for The Guillotine?
If the latter, that sucks!

Edit;
Did some research on Mtn. Project, looks like someone bolted Decapitation 5.11a.

Description 
Listed as TR in the Vogel/Gaines guide this has been bolted since. The start is pretty contrived with holds right near by to the left but the upper half is pretty fun and probably a safer lead than the second half of Greasy Kid Stuff.

Location 
Bolts just left of The Guillotine. Ends at bolted anchor.

Protection 
Bolts
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Oct 9, 2017 - 07:52am PT
Let's meet at the green church and hash this out...rj
bootysatva

Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2017 - 08:23am PT
If I had had a wrench with me I could have removed the hangers while keeping one hand on The Guillotine route.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 9, 2017 - 08:31am PT
Thanks for the info......

pretty weak ...

Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 9, 2017 - 08:34am PT
not cool, welcome to the gym
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 9, 2017 - 08:55am PT
Are these bolts that protect a new route or are they convenience bolts for The Guillotine?
If the latter, that sucks!

Either way it sucks. Some people have no sense of style.
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Oct 9, 2017 - 08:58am PT
Chop them!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 9, 2017 - 09:17am PT
Lame. Best to chop unless there's something going on I don't know about... Hope you are well Ernesto!

Greg
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 9, 2017 - 09:29am PT
When in doubt - chop.
Tell 'em Rheinhold sent you.
Alois

Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
Oct 9, 2017 - 10:15am PT
Ernesto

Bolts placed so close to classic existing route are not cool. They severely disrupt the experience of climbing Guillotine. I'm in agreement.

It was great to see you Saturday.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 9, 2017 - 10:31am PT
I couldn't help but notice it gets 1.5 stars on Mtn Pjct.

Rad.

Whatz up Alois?
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 9, 2017 - 10:54am PT
Anyone have a picture?
Alois

Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
Oct 9, 2017 - 11:19am PT
I think Ernesto might have taken at least one picture, not sure.

Hi Kris, thanks, I'm good. Knee's getting better. Hoping...
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Oct 9, 2017 - 11:45am PT
Creeping gym mentality changing the sport from adventure to "work-out-numbers-game."


Chopping is a harsh term. Pulling is better and more ecological.

It would be great to have the creator on here defending his work.

Perhaps we old farts no longer get a vote in this discussion. Not that we are wrong, just that our standards would even occur to the new generation.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Oct 9, 2017 - 12:37pm PT
This is the future. All we can do is rage against the dying of the light.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Oct 9, 2017 - 12:37pm PT
There is a reason that some climbs are listed as TRs in guidebooks. They might be a fun distraction while in the area, but were not deemed worthy of bolting (in this case far too close to existing routes).

The persons responsible should be contacted and ideally enlisted in careful removal (and patching) of the bolts - an educational moment and being part of the solution.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 9, 2017 - 12:44pm PT
Au Contraire Spider...I climb with quite a few twenty somethings and they all have pretty strict ethics in regards to issues like this. They are, however, heavily into trad climbing.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 9, 2017 - 01:23pm PT
Spider, Jim isn't aware of the proliferation of eunuchs taking up climbing.
NTTAWWT, on paper anyway.
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