Margo Hayes Climbs 9a+

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TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 26, 2017 - 07:27pm PT
Kinda surprised that this hasn't been posted yet, thought it was significant as well as quite inspirational.

According to the climber’s site 8a.nu, Margo Hayes sent La Rambla 5.15a in Spain. “Margo Hayes has become the first female to have mastered the 9a+ [5.15a] grade by doing La Rambla in Siurana today,” noted 8a. Be sure to check them out for top daily news from the rock climbing world.

They went on to mention, “In 2005, Josune Bereziartu did Bibaluna graded 9a/+ [5.14d/15a] and also Ashima Shiraishi has done a route where 9a/+ [5.14d/15a] has been mentioned, Open Your Mind Direct. More info to come but clearly, Margo’s ascent is one of the most ground breaking ascents in the history of sport climbing.”

From Gripped http://gripped.com/news/american-margo-hayes-sends-la-rambla-5-15a-makes-history/

velvet!

Trad climber
La Cochitaville
Feb 26, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
What a legend!
EdwardT

Trad climber
Retired
Feb 26, 2017 - 10:37pm PT
A 17 year old young woman climbs 5.15... so awesome!
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Feb 27, 2017 - 05:58am PT
Watching her climbing talent in that bouldering video leaves me almost speechless.
"Congrats for her send!"
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 27, 2017 - 07:15am PT
kind of surprised, no one seems to care

This is an amazing achievement.
BUT
This is Supertopo.
Climbing, especially cutting edge climbing, is not highly regarded on Supertopo.

Probably better- it usually just turns into the embarrassing argument that this was a pinkpoint.
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Feb 27, 2017 - 10:13am PT
Who is a more interesting climber:
steve hong
or
matty hong
?
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Feb 27, 2017 - 10:28am PT
La Rambla is a legendary climb around here. Some very strong guys have had a very hard time with it, and some women have put in a lot of effort on it too.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Feb 27, 2017 - 10:34am PT
I was going to start a thread yesterday but didn't have time.

So awesome!

This picture is phenomenal. It makes my eyes water seeing the emotion. Likely a mix of joy, pride, accomplishment, and disbelief!


Photo credit. https://www.instagram.com/honngy/
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Feb 27, 2017 - 10:37am PT
Tami, no need to worry about Margo's priorities. She was in my math class a couple of years ago, and she is spending a GAP year this year, training in Europe and *studying* for going back to school next school year.

Of course there is this small event coming up called the Olympics, and you never know how that could affect her plan. The point is, Margo is very academic, and will have impressive professional accomplishments outside of climbing someday.
DanaB

climber
CT
Feb 27, 2017 - 10:55am PT
Regards the previous post.

The Boston Bruins were playing the Montreal Canadians at a time when the Bruins were a group of earnest, blue-collar, grinding players and the Canadians were very fast, talented, and skilled. After losing, a sportswriter said to one of the Bruins, "Well, you guys sure worked hard out there today!" The Bruin player paused and said. "True. But sometimes hard work just doesn't work."
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Feb 27, 2017 - 11:01am PT
how is this even rock climbing? it's upside down. ;-)
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Feb 27, 2017 - 11:21am PT
Obviously it is an extremely impressive climbing feat.
But I'm not quite sure why we're all supposed to go ape sh#t over it.
I'm sure she's psyched she sent it, just like people get psyched when they solve a tough crossword puzzle or do well in charades or something.
It's just sport climbing--let's not pretend that this makes the slightest bit of difference to anyone else's life or has any deeper meaning than a young lady is very, very good at holding on to small holds on a piece of rock.

If I had the talent she does I'd probably travel around the world playing games too, I'm sure it's lots of fun, but I'll save being impressed for people who actually do something to help other people, or sometimes even people who do something that at's least fairly interesting. I'm not sure how difficult sport climbing really qualifies.


jogill

climber
Colorado
Feb 27, 2017 - 11:39am PT
I've mentioned this before, but forty years ago Pat Ament and I speculated that hard, competitive rock climbing would eventually resemble women's gymnastics, although both sexes would participate. I don't say this as a pejorative, but simply to imply that spectators in the climbing community would marvel at such climbing feats, but in an almost abstract way, realizing that anatomical and athletic gifts are unequally distributed and youth is fleeting.

It's great you can go to YouTube and watch these performances, but it's increasingly difficult to imagine one's self engaging in such marvelous rock gymnastics. Almost like watching X-Men.

I'm an admirer, Margo. Way to go, young lady!
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Feb 27, 2017 - 11:51am PT
I've mentioned this before, but forty years ago Pat Amant and I speculated that hard, competitive rock climbing would eventually resemble women's gymnastics, although both sexes would participate.

A big difference is that gymnastics is at least fairly interesting to watch and the difficulty is readily apparent.
How do you know a climb is 13 or 14 or 15, unless you've felt the holds? Basically someone has to tell you unless you've attempted it.

And this notion that elite climbers are doing something fundamentally different from average joe or jane is mostly poppycock. I go to a gym that has plenty of pro climbers, so I see them all the time. They can just grab holds that are somewhat smaller and somewhat farther apart than most of us.
If you believe that is a skill worthy of adulation--that's nice.

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Feb 27, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
Blahblah do you even climb bro?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 27, 2017 - 12:02pm PT

Calm, focused, determined, and a true movemaster...
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Feb 27, 2017 - 12:06pm PT
I'm not sure why but I'm never really impressed with this kind of stuff. And I really don't want to sound like a jerk....but I probably do. I dunno....it kind of seems like the equivalent of seeing a 9 year old girl crank off 60 sit-ups in a minute at those YMCA fitness achievement days. Or an 11 year old skinny kid do a ton of pull-ups in the school yard. If you're skinny enough and young enough and stoked enough, super hard sport climbing becomes a matter of grit and bodyweight......it just becomes a bit unimpressive to me.

I'm stoked for her that she made a goal, worked her tail off and sent it! What a cutie. Her enthusiasm is super cool. I'm just not sure why I'm not too impressed with the feat. I'd expect a super thin 12 year old to do it sooner or later. Or eleven, or ten...would I be impressed if a six year old did it? Maybe. I'm usually pretty easy to impress, but hard sport climbing by youngsters just doesn't do it for me.

Does anybody else feel this way about the cutting edge of gym or sport climbing?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 27, 2017 - 12:09pm PT
Josune Bereziartu climbed 14d/15a in 2005

Ashima Shirashi climbed two 14d/15as last year.

Some men have been reported as saying that La Rambla is more 14d than 15a; use of one large hold slightly off the line of the finish is debated.

No disrespect to Margo. But the question of the first female 15a may require more research and more time before a consensus is reached.

Compare to the first 14d route. Popularly supposed to be Action Directe, but 20+ years later, Hubble is now also supposedly 14d and was climbed first, although given 14c at the time. So which one is the first 14d? And which one is harder? AD has had more repeats than Hubble has.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Feb 27, 2017 - 12:14pm PT
Being an old skewl trad climber that struggles on 5.11 I can't even
pretend to know what that level is like , next to impossible for many.
To be that young , focused and strong is amazing. Props to her.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 27, 2017 - 12:20pm PT
notion that elite climbers are doing something fundamentally different from average joe or jane is mostly poppycock.

Poppycock lol.

You know, blahblahblahblah, you're right- from the boulders to the great mountains of the world, none of it matters...
if for one thing.
Inspiration.
And that's a pretty f ucking important thing these days, and always, and in an activity like climbing where progression is natural.
This send could help her be a better human, or be the catalyst in someone else's path.
A young person, especially a woman, setting standards in climbing or any field, can do great things for climbing...and for humanity.
So you're right...and you're wrong :-)
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