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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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I would never argue that there are genetic differences in natural strength-to-weight ratios. There are also genetic differences in natural kinesthetic body awareness. But I don't believe that 95% of climbing is strength. I feel it's more like 30%.
Not being able to hold on to a crimp, pinch, sloper or any difficult hold is a function of many things -- balance, body positioning, footwork, and yes, finger strength. Sometimes it's a matter of very specifically shifting your center of gravity. These things are often learned from repeated attempts to redpoint something. Your body "learns" how to hold on to the hold. The better climbers are those that are better learners.
Certainly everyone has a top end, largely dictated by genetics. But what separates those who have the genetics to achieve any grade are: 1)learning out to learn the route; 2)fitness; 3)focus and breathing; 4)attention to minute details in body positioning and footwork; and 5)desire.
Again, way to go Margo! It's an awesome achievement.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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The better climbers are those that are better learners
Absolutely. Very true in all disciplines of life.
All the talk on strength to weight on this thread reminded me of ol Hidetaka Suzuki. A true master. And one strong, skinny string bean of a human! Anybody know what he's up to these days?
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Another notable ascent for a woman went down yesterday-
Nina Williams sent Ambrosia v11 55ft on Grampa Peabody. Sick.
Sweet. I heard she was close last week from someone at the Pit.
Also, congrats to Margo.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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In Men's Gymnastics there really are no real advances in the strength portions of the routines (Iron Crosses etc) to my knowledge. There are human limits to what can be done there
Not so. The Victorian Cross, for example. Male gymnasts have gotten shorter with many Olympic performers 5'2" to 5'4". This makes moves like the mythical VC possible, as well as allowing the gymnast to do multiple Maltese Crosses and the like. And they have gotten stronger. Just like rock climbing, the difficulty scale keeps extending.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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that he was passionate about climbing above EVERYTHING else in his life
Even you? Now that's a shame....
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jstan
climber
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If I might, a comment based upon what JGill posted.
1. In a sense WE are being selected based upon the new kinds of climbs being done.
2. As a result of climbing now being a SPORT not a pursuit, that selection is now being made from a much larger population.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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That was my first 9a+ as well....
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Badass gal, so hats off! My question: What's the difference between 5.14d/5.15a and 5.15a? Apply this to other grades: 5.9+/10a vs. 10a. Really? This sounds utterly ridiculous to me. I think La Rambla is really 5.15a-. So there. The rating at that fine a gradation comes down to some pretty subjective impressions AND objective differences--hand size, reach, etc. Given the earlier ascents by Josune Bereziartu, some perspective is in order, yes? I'm sure Hayes could crush me with her little finger, and she's one of the world's great sport climbers. She, however, is not responsible for what people say about her climbs.
BAd
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KlimbIn
climber
Sandstonia
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Mar 23, 2017 - 07:01pm PT
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Amazing!
As an old never-been, who sometimes pushes himself to climb harder than he thinks he can, I thank Ms. Hayes for that very human picture – representing the joy, elation, adrenaline and perhaps disbelief of her own accomplishment. I think I know how that feels.
Her videos show a remarkable, smooth, strong (mentally and physically) competitive athlete. I cannot fathom what it takes to do what she does. This in no way lessens my passion for my hobby, in fact it strengthens it.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Mar 23, 2017 - 07:19pm PT
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Dismissing the accomplishment is pure jealousy. You might as well disparage Ussain Bolt or Michael Phelps because they have some natural aptitude. Aptitude isn't enough. You know this
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