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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2016 - 10:57am PT
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Yo V. We want the goods. I know you have been killing it out there. From Angel's Wings to Bubb's to Tokopah to The Hamilton Massif to Panther Peak and all kinds of radness in between. A little birdie even told me you are headed in to TD soon! How bout you post up a nice list for all of us to drool over. You wanna share a list of your FA's? I'd love to see it all in one place and I know others would be inspired by the stoke. So c'mon. Spay us down bruh!
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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x2
Would love to see it all in one place.
Super inspiring for us n00bs
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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wait for the coffee table book. ;)
ho man, these aren't little sport rap bolted FA's either
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Spay us down bruh!
I for one, do not wish to be spayed.
(and don't have the organs for such, anyway)
I would be interested in the FA list, however.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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So we are going to live Vitaliyously now, huh.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Indoor and outdoor FAs?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Since he often shares trip reports for his FAs, there is already a very long list if you click on his name and the Trip Reports tab:
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/view_tripreports.php?dcid=MTI-PzU_PyM,
Plus, Vitaliy is busy climbing until next February - no time to sit at a computer screen!
[EDIT: Vitaliy must be having a rest day - see his full list lower in this thread. :-) ]
 New Routes in Kings Canyon; Jun 19, 2016
Happy Dome - Man in Heat (2,000 ft 5.8 R)
North Sentinel
Eddie's Crack (III - IV 5.10)
Eddie's Crack splitter var. (5.11c - 70m)
FML Crack (IV 5.11 C0)
Chasing The Wind (III-IV 5.10)
Moro Rock - Modern Guilt (FFA IV 5.12); May 21, 2016
TWO NEW & MEGA-AWESOME Routes on Hamilton Dome!; May 05, 2016
Hamlet Buttress (IV 5.9+ - 1,700 ft)
Subliminal Verses (IV 5.10a/b - 1,350 ft w/400 ft of 2-4th class to the summit)
The Globe - FA of The Standing Ovation (1000 ft - III 5.10); May 05, 2016
Rowell Tower - First Ascent of Full Nelson (IV - 1,200 ft, 5.10+ R); May 04, 2016
An Oddyssey to Shangri La (FA and an FFA in a little paradise); May 03, 2016
Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route (FFA IV-V 5.11a - 1,000 ft) – free version of Et Tu Brute (V A2 5.9+)
Parasitic Nematode (FA/FFA III-IV 5.10+)
Angel Wings - First Ascent on The Golden Pillar! (V 5.11+ C2); May 01, 2016
Bubbs Creek Wall - The Emperor (FA/FFA V 5.12- or 5.11 A0); Feb 02, 2016
Cloud Tower Direct (5.11d A0) to LULz"ON"US (FA II 5.7+) link up; Jan 22, 2016
The Serpent's Tooth - FA of the Wild West Crack (IV 5.11+); Dec 07, 2015
MODERN FAs in the SUPER SECRET AREA (THE X FILES); Oct 26, 2015
Cherubim Dome
Dark Angels Have More Fun (IV 5.9+ R - 1,800 feet)
What Dreams May Come (IV 5.10 R - 1,500 feet)
First Ascent on Lower Tokopah Dome!; Oct 21, 2015
Mango Lassi LULZ Machine (5.10+ - 620 feet)
Eagle Scout Creek Dome - FA of Direct West Face (IV 5.11 C1); Sep 18, 2015
First Ascent of the Granite Creek Spire ! ! ! A virgin Sierra summit ! ! ! !; Sep 18, 2015
Valhalla Diary pt. 3: The Prism - (FA) Monkeys In The Clouds (IV 5.10); Aug 20, 2015
Ericsson Crag # 3 - (First Ascent of) Turn Down For What (1,400 ft - IV 5.10); Jul 22, 2015
Panther Peak - Krymptonite (FA) - 5.11 650 ft; Jun 12, 2015
Castle Rock Spire - FFA of the Direct East Face (III+ 5.11Burly)!!!!; Jun 02, 2015
Adventures in Tokopah Valley; Apr 21, 2015
Lower Tokopah Dome
Tokopah Reality (700 ft 5.11)
Welcome to Wallmart (550ft 5.10+)
Boardwalk Chimney (550 ft 5.8)
Beauty and the Beast (650 ft 5.11- A0)
UPPER TOKOPAH DOME:
Usually its Sunny (800ft 5.10c)
Tan in November (400ft 5.9)
The Sphinx (9,146 ft) - Cotton Mouth Khafra (FA) 1800 ft, 5.11-; Nov 04, 2014
Castle Dome - FA of the Southeast Aręte (IV, 5.10); Sep 28, 2014
Mt. Hood- (FA of Ravine-WI3 M4); Nov 14, 2013
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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No stopping Vitalyi....his energy and enthusiasm are awe inspiring.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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I've been told many times that in America everything is about business. With all the FAs, Vitaly must be getting horribly rich...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Tic-Man
V keeps on ticking.
He keeps on picking.
He keeps on sticking.
And there's just no dicking
Around.
V keeps on trying.
He keeps applying.
He does nor spray nor lying.
Plums he keeps espying
From the ground.
Showboat not.
Thrill-seeker yes.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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First 'Solo' ascent of the 'Widows Tears', Yosemite. First day of this year. The one to watch and cool that this comes up at the same time Rowells list comes up. He's a really approachable guy! Not all climbers who have this kind of list are.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Disclaimer: I do not claim that all of these are 100% first ascents, nor that they make me cool in any way. This is the list I kept since last year since I thought it would be wise to document this stuff. I like to hike, climb things without topos and summit peaks. Begin on the bottom and finish on top, or work on hard routes for a while. I like climbing things with an unknown outcome basically and at times wish I didn't, so that I could get better at technical climbing (take my shirt off and send the gnar at a crag ya know?! just kidding). :) Hiking heaps does not help send 5.12s, which by today's standards is not even very hard! Yet I am into this because I like it and over the years have been improving anyway, so whatever. Naturally not gifted with talent when it comes to athletics, for now maintaining a steady growth and avoiding injuries would be a really nice goal for the future...
I placed a # next to three climbs that are iffy in my book.
In 2016 I used *s to indicate how good a climb was, in my opinion. It is a four star system.
* being sh#t
** eh meh
*** good and would recommend to others that have not done it
being great and would do it again myself
@ - first ascent of the face or the formation (to the best of my knowledge)
2016
1) Moro rock - FFA modern guilt IV 5.12 1,000 w/ Brian Prince
2) Moro rock - FA (in the works) 1,000 w/Daniel Jeffcoach
@3) North sentinel - FML crack IV 5.11 C1 *** 750 w/Daniel Jeffcoach, Brandon Thau, Daniel Jeffcoach
4) north sentinel - Eddie's crack 250 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz
5) North sentinel - chimney *** 700 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz
6) North sentinel - Chasing the wind (finished the last 1/3 of the route Daniel and Adam climbed) 850 w/ Caitlin Taylor
@7) Happy Dome - Men in Heat IV 5.8R 1,800 w/Daniel Jeffcoach
@8) Dark tower - Roland's Journey 1000 ft IV 5.8-9 **.1/2 1,000 w/ Brian Prince and Alaina Robertson
@9) Gambler's Special - Ghost Riders in the Sky IV - (V 5.10)*** 1,600 ft+400ft up to 5.7solo w/ Alaina Robertson
10) Mt. Whitney - Inyo Face (V 5.11a ) 2,200ft w/ Austin Siadak
11) Cleaver - The Butcher FFA (IV 5.12) 850ft w/Shaun Reed
12) GS - Wait and Bleed (IV 5.10-) 1,600 * w/ Shaun Reed
@13) Clarence King - Direct NW Face (V 5.11) 2000 FT w/Chaz
@14) Gardnier - Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium IV 5.10- 1,500 w/Chaz L
@15) Gardnier - Vermillion pt 1. (5.11- R X) 1,300 *** w/ Chaz L
16) Whitney - Name TBA (V 5.11, 5.10R) 2,200 w/ Adam Ferro
@17) Mt. Hitchcock - Starlight Dihedral (IV 5.11 5.7RX) - 1,600 w/ Adam Ferro (FA of the buttress not the wall. The long wall has multiple buttresses at least three of which have been climbed)
18) Arctic Lake Wall - TMI (Too much fun) (III 5.10-) 550 ft w/ Adam Ferro
@19) Wall near Hitchcock - Welcome to Krackizstan (IV 5.11-) w/ Adam Ferro
2015
1) Bubbs creek wall - FA/FFA of the emperor (V 5.12a 17 pitches 2200 ft) w/ Caitlin Taylor
2) CRS - FFA of the east face direct (III+ 5.11B 500 ft 5 pitches) w/ Maxim Belyakov
3) Lower Tokopah Dome - Mango Lassi Lulz Machine (III 5.10+ 600 ft 4 pitches) w/ Adam Burch
@4) Panther Peak - Krymptonite (III 5.11b/c 650 ft - 5 pitches) w/ Adam Shepperd
5) Ericsson Crag # 3 - (IV 5.10 1,500 ft ) w/ Maxim Belyakov
6) The Prism - Monkeys in the Clouds IV 5.10 1,300 ft (5.7 R X) w/ Luke Stefurak
7) Angel wings - The Golden Pillar - Killing In The Name Of (V 5.11 1,700 ft - 15 pitches) w/Adam Ferro and first attempt with Luke Stefurak (got up 1/2 way up the wall)
8) Cherubum Dome - Dark Angels Have More Fun (IV 5.9+ R) 1,800 ft w/ Adam Ferro
9) Cherubim Dome - What Dreams May Come (IV 5.10 R - 1,550 ft) w/Brian Prince
@10) The Serpent's Tooth - The Wild West Crack (IV 5.11+ 700 ft)w/Brian Prince
@11) Hamilton Dome - Hamlet Buttress 1,700 ft (IV 5.9+ 1,800 ft) w/Brian Prince
12) Hamilton Dome - The Subliminal Verses (IV 5.10- 1,350 ft w/ 400 ft of 2nd-4th class to the top) w/Brian Prince
@13) Rowell Tower - Full Nelson (IV 5.10+ R) w/Brian Prince
@14) The Globe - Standing Ovation (III 5.10- 950 ft) w/Brian Prince
@15) Eagle Scout Creek Dome - Direct West Face (IV 800 ft 5.11 C1) w/Brian Prince
@16) Darth Vador Tower - Knob Wars (III 5.10- R - 1,000) w/ Brian Prince
17) Panther peak-Rack em up reed variation III 5.10 w/Daniel Jeffcoach and Alaina Robertson
18) Unicorn FFA? w/ Julia #
2014 FA/FFA
1) Bubbs creek wall - FA of the Emperor (V 5.12a 17 pitches 2200 ft) w/Luke Stefurak (final push. also Caitlin Taylor, Daniel Jeffcoach, Brian Knowles, Pavel Burov)
2) Flatiron Butte - Parasitic Nematode (IV 5.10+ 1,200 ft 5 pitches before the ridge) w/ Caitlin Taylor
3) Flatiron Butte - Brutus of Wyde Memorial route (V 5.11a 1,500 ft 12 pitches) w/ Caitlin Taylor
4) Castle Dome - SE Aręte (IV 5.10 1,100 ft 9 pitches) w/ Caitlin Taylor
5) Santa Cruz Dome - Usually it's sunny (III + 5.10c 800 ft 6 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
@6) Lower Tokopah Dome - Boardwalk Chimney (III 5.8 540 ft 3 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
7) Lower Tokopah Dome - Tokopah Reality (IV- 5.11a 650 ft 5 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
8) Lower Tokopah Dome - Beauty and the Beast (III 5.11a 600 ft 5 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
@9) The Sphinx - Cotton Mouth Khafra (IV 5.11a 1,800 ft 12 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
2013
1) Wells peak - Krampus Crawl (IV 5.10a 1,200 ft)# w/ Michelle Peot
2) Laurel Mountain - SE rib (III 5.6 solo)
3) Mt. Hood - The Ravine (III m4 wi3 400 ft) w/Anastasia #
2012
@1) Fortress - the Siege (IV 5.10c 1,000 ft) w/Daniel Jeffcoach and Tom Ruddy
First 'Solo' ascent of the 'Widows Tears', Yosemite.
There were other claims that it could have been free soloed or soloed earlier. To me the ascent was not about the first to do it. I don't really give a sh#t if I was 18th to free solo it.
1) It was about climbing the route finally.
2) About finding out if I can actually raise above my self and do the thing I was sort of fantasizing about. Without beta on conditions. Without knowing if the guys that climbed it a day ago topped out or bailed. Onsighting the notorious ice climb that makes most competent ice climbers a bit intimidated, without a rope.
Some people reacted with 'you must have been the first to do it!' Maybe, maybe not. Who cares? I guess the random people care. Me now, not really. If someone did the exact same thing 10 years ago does it change THE EXPERIENCE I had OR the LESSON I learned (whatever that is for me)? Nope, not one bit. And if my tools ripped and I took a 900 ft plunge to the base with my brains exploding, for the SAR to clean, no one would really give a damn in the long term aside from a few close friends and my parents. It was a very personal experience and not something I would suggest for others. Exploring the backcountry is a much better option and wish all the publicity awarded to that climb would rather be given to all the cool places off the beaten path. Don't have to travel half way around the world and pay big fees to get to a load of unclimbed walls, some are here in the Sierra. It is very difficult to find them, but for the creative and persistent everything is possible. And when it comes to all these climbs I have done, it is NOT about the claim to be the first to do it but about the experiences gained while going into unknown with (hopefully) good friends. While incredible in many ways, I sacrificed a lot to do it all, saying no to multiple romantic relationships, so no need to pass judgements or be jealous. Everyone has their own cross to carry and trust me you don't want mine.
PS: I did not really do the FA of The Right Wing Tower via The TRUMP Direct :))
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2016 - 04:19pm PT
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Nice!
That's what I'm talkin' about. That's a list you can be proud of man. Damn near a new "era" in first ascenting in our back yard. My favorite route name is "Men in Heat." Classic. Thanks for sharing the stoke!
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The Alpine
climber
The Sea
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Brah... Only 18 or 19 a year!?
LIGHT!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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WHAT A LAZY ASS
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I hate you ;-)
I think you are crazy, but if you ever want to come to CA and join one of these trips, welcome! Crazy is not boring.
The Alpine, if you want to head out to Chamberlain together, PM me or something. Would be cool to meet and climb.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
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Just got off the phone with Limpingcrab. Good luck on the upcoming trip. Send that thing!
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