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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I think you are crazy, but if you ever want to come to CA and join one of these trips, welcome! Crazy is not boring.
! !
I'm down to tag along. It would be awesome !
Ya know, telling me to come along is the sort of motivation I need !
Thnx !
The wife & kids have threatened to buy me a one-way bus ticket.
There is no such thing as a short approach in the high country is there. . . No )-;/
Lamas to the rescue - Mules? They promised us when we were kids
I want my Jet Pack!
This is a so much better place to 'be' I stayed home. now there is a 3.5, hour - 8 mile bumper to tail pipe back-up on the highway to I would be on, ..just thought I'd share
now I'm Going pebble pinchin'
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Hey pops! How's that beautiful kiddo? Sleeping thru yet?
She is so cute ! And that - don't mess with me,buddy ! - look!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Can anyone vouch that all these routes were done? Photoshopper who never left the tallus? Made ip partners? Isn't he a gym climber? List is too long so must be a load of crap. Days of exploration of new territory like that is long past.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Clinker, is onto something. With the amount of trolling I do on the internet, do you think the stuff I do is real? In a few years the AAJ will realize it was some guy drawing lines on some photos ripped off from a backpackers forum. One way to find out!! :)
Gnome, I'm serious. Have met other less 'proper' members of the forum like Cosmic and would be happy to see him and climb with him in the future. Although he is saying he may have a back surgery...if you want to come this way and do something, email me, and we can see if things can work. I am about to be on backcountry for a while, but respond to emails whenever I get to them.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nice V. You are active and doing some great routes.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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I got pumped just reading that list of climbs
Impressive
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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del cross,
that is true ! I can't remember in which of his numerous write-ups Vitaliy shared a picture where he was a soda swilling blob-boy! A 300+ pounder !
Also what is as inspiring as his transformation from blob to rock, is his grasp of the now
Of his growth as a person non-rockclimbing & climbing,
I think English is his second language ?
His wry wit, Exudes joy. He smiles stoically at the masochisms that are the rigors Backcountry, High country virgin rock,
Rock climbing.
The pictures and the - locations- the picture are from are always amazing.
look on map-quest,
if you do your sleuthing;
read up on the ground that Vitaliy & company cover!
as fully stoked every-men, getting out there, get after it , and sending ! It Is inspiring!
( it makes me green with jealousy!)
it makes this old climber still hold out the belief that the good that is climbing is not dead.
Please do not tell me if you /they are painting the names of climbs on the walls to mark the starts. I need to believe. . .
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
Aug 5, 2016 - 07:01pm PT
2/10
Screw this old school sh#t. Boring.
Really dude, check the chart, the whole list only covers V0 to V4s.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 10, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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Bump
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 10, 2016 - 09:04pm PT
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What does that mean?
I'm less proper because I can't climb as hard as you anymore?
It means you are unorthodox, as most climbers, which is great. Why I like talking to you on the phone and why I thought meeting you and the birds was cool. Hopefully we will get to catch up later this month or early November!
Clinker, climbing mountains is not about grades, it is about making lifestyle choices. ;)
2016 list updated:
1) Moro rock - FFA modern guilt IV 5.12 1,000 w/ Brian Prince ***
2) Moro rock - FA (in the works) 1,000 w/Daniel Jeffcoach
3) North sentinel - FML crack IV 5.11 C1 750 w/Daniel Jeffcoach, Brandon Thau, Daniel Jeffcoach **
4) north sentinel - Eddie's crack 250 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz ***
5) North sentinel - chimney *** 700 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz
6) North sentinel - Chasing the wind (finished the last 1/3 of the route Daniel and Adam climbed) 850 w/ Caitlin Taylor ***
7) Happy Dome - Men in Heat IV 5.8R 1,800 w/Daniel Jeffcoach
8) Dark tower - Roland's Journey 1000 ft IV 5.8-9 1,000 w/ Brian Prince and Alaina Robertson *
9) Gambler's Special - Ghost Riders in the Sky IV - (V 5.10) 1,600 ft+400ft up to 5.7solo w/ Alaina Robertson ***
10) Mt. Whitney - Inyo Face (V 5.11a ) 2,200ft w/ Austin Siadak
11) Cleaver - The Butcher FFA (IV 5.12) 850ft w/Shaun Reed***
12) GS - Wait and Bleed (IV 5.10-) 1,600 w/ Shaun Reed
13) Clarence King - Direct NW Face (V 5.11) 2000 FT w/Chaz **
14) Gardnier - Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium IV 5.10- 1,500 w/Chaz L ***
15) Gardnier - Vermillion pt 1. (5.11- R X) 1,300 * w/ Chaz L
16) Whitney - Uncertainty Principle (V 5.11, 5.10R) 2,200 w/ Adam Ferro **
17) Mt. Hitchcock - Starlight Dihedral (IV-V 5.11 5.7RX) - 1,600 w/ Adam Ferro (FA of the buttress not the wall. The long wall has multiple buttresses at least three of which have been climbed) ***
18) Arctic Lake Wall - TMI (Too much fun) (III 5.10-) 550 ft w/ Adam Ferro ***
19) Hitchcock - Welcome to Krackizstan (IV-V 5.11-) 1600ft w/ Adam Ferro ***
20) Mt. Whitney - Happy to Be Here (V 5.11- R) 2000 ft w/ Brian Prince (negative stars lol)
21) Arctic Lake Wall - Arctic Beast (III 5.11+) 700 ft w/ Brian Prince ***
22) FA of Watsi Wall (2200 ft) via Lost World (VI 5.11+ A3 R) 2700 ft w/ Brian Prince and Daniel Jeffcoach **
23) Mt. Watkins - Teabag Wisdom (IV 5.11-) 1350 ft w/ Chris Kolpp ***
24) The Harding Tower - New Life (IV 5.10) 2000 ft w/ Mark Westman *
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Oct 10, 2016 - 10:57pm PT
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Vit, in my opinion you are the real deal. It is so refreshing to see how chill, persistent, and accomplished a climber can be.
Can't thank you enough for publishing routes and destinations for others to pursue; it is a treasure to the climbing community. Keep up the good work.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 11, 2016 - 12:38pm PT
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I heared California was pretty much climbed out. That was back in the mid '80s. :)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 11, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
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While this is on top, I won't feel bad about bumping a thread about myself...
Vit, in my opinion you are the real deal. It is so refreshing to see how chill, persistent, and accomplished a climber can be.
You forgot to mention incredibly silly. :)
I heared California was pretty much climbed out. That was back in the mid '80s. :)
It is, completely climbed out. But I want to make sure there are no crumbs left. AAJ will have 0 submissions for new CA routes in 2018.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 11, 2016 - 02:26pm PT
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I'm no mathologist but if you're numbers are correct that's 33,100 feet of new routes this year.
I don't think I've climbed that many feet all together ever.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jun 16, 2017 - 05:19pm PT
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Wonder what they will put at #1 for the 2017 edition?
(Sarcasm)
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sempervirens
climber
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Jun 16, 2017 - 09:51pm PT
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Cool.
btw, I think you meant, "List of Vitaliy's FA's" not "Vitaliy's List of FA's".
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Glad this thread was started. When my car was stolen earlier this year, my phone was in it and that's where I kept the list of routes. Since it was copied here I did t have to try and remember it all. In 2017 I been mostly working but did get a few new ones in and a few attempts at hard things that didn't go all the way.
2017
1. Moro Rock - IV 5.11+ 1200ft w/Daniel Jeffcoach half way up in 2016, w/Brian Prince all the way in 2017.
2. Grand Sentinel - NE buttress III 5.10 800ft w/ Chaz Langelier in May of 2017
3. The Fin - East Face - Cutting Edge III 5.9 1000ft w/ Daniel Jeffcoach June 2017. Traverse of all the castle rocks the following day.
4. The Fin - East Face - Super Totally Trad IV 5.11a 1000ft. W/ Jeremy Ross June 2017.
5. The Fin - West Face - Tainted Love IV 5.11a. Late June 2017 w/Chaz Langelier.
Also climbed possibly 2nd ascent of Beast and Beauty on Charlotte Dome w/ Chaz, as a c2c outing on July 4th. Great climb.
Tainted Love -orange
Silver Lining - Red
Aspire - Blue
Nirvana - not really sure where
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Ran into Vitaliy in Patagonia earlier this year. Believed they did at least one FA down there as well.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sweetie pie.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!