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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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JJ Yosh!
Was great to meet up with you Marty. Wish we had dinner or something. From what I remember we just got out of the mountains and were looking for a grocery shop to but good or to eat at? And were supposed to go back out the following day or the day after? That was a bit much. The approaches are long and usually fairly physical. We didn't try to do any new routes there. One of the big reasons I do new routes in the Sierra is because I have done the Classics and feel like I usually can find a better climb vs most obscurities. But I found some nice routes that aren't climbed as much. It just depends if they are documented well in one of the major guides.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Look on your face is priceless! We got to do more stuff like this. Didn't even end up epicing.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 17, 2017 - 06:30pm PT
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Updated list before my phone gets stolen again or something.
2017
1. Moro Rock - IV 5.11+ 1200ft w/Brian Prince
2. Grand Sentinel - NE buttress III 5.10 800ft w/Chaz
3. The Fin - East Face - Cutting Edge III 5.9 1000ft w/Daniel Jeffcoach
4. The Fin - East Face - Super Totally Trad IV 5.11a 1000ft w/Jeremy Ross
5. The Fin - West Face - Tainted Love IV 5.11a w/ Chaz
6. Charlotte Dome - dance of dragons IV 5.10 2,000 ft
7. North Cotter - N/NE face. III-IV 5.9+ w/Chaz 1,000 ft
8. Albatross, Arrigetch, Alaska - Direct Southeast face IV 5.10+ 1,800 ft. w/Brian Prince and Adam Ferro
9. Xanadu, Arrigetch, Alaska - NW face 1,400 ft. IV 5.11C/D R w/Brian Prince and Adam Ferro
2016
1) Moro rock - FFA modern guilt IV 5.12 1,000 w/ Brian Prince ***
2) Moro rock - FA (in the works) 1,000 w/Daniel Jeffcoach
3) North sentinel - FML crack IV 5.11 C1 750 w/Daniel Jeffcoach, Brandon Thau, Daniel Jeffcoach **
4) north sentinel - Eddie's crack 250 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz ***
5) North sentinel - chimney *** 700 w/Brian Prince, Caitlin and Chaz
6) North sentinel - Chasing the wind (finished the last 1/3 of the route Daniel and Adam climbed) 850 w/ Caitlin Taylor ***
7) Happy Dome - Men in Heat IV 5.8R 1,800 w/Daniel Jeffcoach
8) Dark tower - Roland's Journey 1000 ft IV 5.8-9 1,000 w/ Brian Prince and Alaina Robertson *
9) Gambler's Special - Ghost Riders in the Sky IV - (V 5.10) 1,600 ft+400ft up to 5.7solo w/ Alaina Robertson ***
10) Mt. Whitney - Inyo Face (V 5.11a ) 2,200ft w/ Austin Siadak
11) Cleaver - The Butcher FFA (IV 5.12) 850ft w/Shaun Reed***
12) GS - Wait and Bleed (IV 5.10-) 1,600 w/ Shaun Reed
13) Clarence King - Direct NW Face (V 5.11) 2000 FT w/Chaz **
14) Gardnier - Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium IV 5.10- 1,500 w/Chaz L ***
15) Gardnier - Vermillion pt 1. (5.11- R X) 1,300 * w/ Chaz L
16) Whitney - Uncertainty Principle (V 5.11, 5.10R) 2,200 w/ Adam Ferro **
17) Mt. Hitchcock - Starlight Dihedral (IV-V 5.11 5.7RX) - 1,600 w/ Adam Ferro (FA of the buttress not the wall. The long wall has multiple buttresses at least three of which have been climbed) ***
18) Arctic Lake Wall - TMI (Too much fun) (III 5.10-) 550 ft w/ Adam Ferro ***
19) Hitchcock - Welcome to Krackizstan (IV-V 5.11-) 1600ft w/ Adam Ferro ***
20) Mt. Whitney - Happy to Be Here (V 5.11- R) 2000 ft w/ Brian Prince (negative stars lol)
21) Arctic Lake Wall - Arctic Beast (III 5.11+) 700 ft w/ Brian Prince ***
22) FA of Watsi Wall (2200 ft) via Lost World (VI 5.11+ A3 R) 2700 ft w/ Brian Prince and Daniel Jeffcoach **
23) Mt. Watkins - Teabag Wisdom (IV 5.11-) 1350 ft w/ Chris Kolpp ***
24) The Harding Tower - New Life (IV 5.10) 2000 ft w/ Mark Westman *
2015
1) Bubbs creek wall - FA/FFA of the emperor (V 5.12a 17 pitches 2200 ft) w/ Caitlin Taylor
2) CRS - FFA of the east face direct (III+ 5.11B 500 ft 5 pitches) w/ Maxim Belyakov
3) Lower Tokopah Dome - Mango Lassi Lulz Machine (III 5.10+ 600 ft 4 pitches) w/ Adam Burch
@4) Panther Peak - Krymptonite (III 5.11b/c 650 ft - 5 pitches) w/ Adam Shepperd
5) Ericsson Crag # 3 - (IV 5.10 1,500 ft ) w/ Maxim Belyakov
6) The Prism - Monkeys in the Clouds IV 5.10 1,300 ft (5.7 R X) w/ Luke Stefurak
7) Angel wings - The Golden Pillar - Killing In The Name Of (V 5.11 1,700 ft - 15 pitches) w/Adam Ferro and first attempt with Luke Stefurak (got up 1/2 way up the wall)
8) Cherubum Dome - Dark Angels Have More Fun (IV 5.9+ R) 1,800 ft w/ Adam Ferro
9) Cherubim Dome - What Dreams May Come (IV 5.10 R - 1,550 ft) w/Brian Prince
@10) The Serpent's Tooth - The Wild West Crack (IV 5.11+ 700 ft)w/Brian Prince
@11) Hamilton Dome - Hamlet Buttress 1,700 ft (IV 5.9+ 1,800 ft) w/Brian Prince
12) Hamilton Dome - The Subliminal Verses (IV 5.10- 1,350 ft w/ 400 ft of 2nd-4th class to the top) w/Brian Prince
@13) Rowell Tower - Full Nelson (IV 5.10+ R) w/Brian Prince
@14) The Globe - Standing Ovation (III 5.10- 950 ft) w/Brian Prince
@15) Eagle Scout Creek Dome - Direct West Face (IV 800 ft 5.11 C1) w/Brian Prince
@16) Darth Vador Tower - Knob Wars (III 5.10- R - 1,000) w/ Brian Prince
17) Panther peak-Rack em up reed variation III 5.10 w/Daniel Jeffcoach and Alaina Robertson
18) Unicorn FFA? w/ Julia #
2014 FA/FFA
1) Bubbs creek wall - FA of the Emperor (V 5.12a 17 pitches 2200 ft) w/Luke Stefurak (final push. also Caitlin Taylor, Daniel Jeffcoach, Brian Knowles, Pavel Burov)
2) Flatiron Butte - Parasitic Nematode (IV 5.10+ 1,200 ft 5 pitches before the ridge) w/ Caitlin Taylor
3) Flatiron Butte - Brutus of Wyde Memorial route (V 5.11a 1,500 ft 12 pitches) w/ Caitlin Taylor
4) Castle Dome - SE Arête (IV 5.10 1,100 ft 9 pitches) w/ Caitlin Taylor
5) Santa Cruz Dome - Usually it's sunny (III + 5.10c 800 ft 6 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
@6) Lower Tokopah Dome - Boardwalk Chimney (III 5.8 540 ft 3 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
7) Lower Tokopah Dome - Tokopah Reality (IV- 5.11a 650 ft 5 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
8) Lower Tokopah Dome - Beauty and the Beast (III 5.11a 600 ft 5 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
@9) The Sphinx - Cotton Mouth Khafra (IV 5.11a 1,800 ft 12 pitches) w/Daniel Jeffcoach
2013
1) Wells peak - Krampus Crawl (IV 5.10a 1,200 ft)# w/ Michelle Peot
2) Laurel Mountain - SE rib (III 5.6 solo)
3) Mt. Hood - The Ravine (III m4 wi3 400 ft) w/Anastasia #
2012
@1) Fortress - the Siege (IV 5.10c 1,000 ft) w/Daniel Jeffcoach and Tom Ruddy
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 17, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
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Bad ass ^^^^^^
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 17, 2017 - 11:17pm PT
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Don't be hating JJ lol. Pretty much my favorite photo ever. :)
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