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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 4, 2003 - 02:35am PT
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Hi All,
I was wondering if any of you knew something about the following list of obscure Valley climbs... info like rating, grade, number of pitches, nearby better known climbs, etc.
thanks in advance for any help.
5.8 Chimney Goldrush Area 1970 Matt Donohoe
ABC Route Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1985 Ron Kauk Jerry Moffat
Arches Direct The Royal Arches 1960 Royal Robbins Joe Fitschen
Beat the Rap Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Ron Skelton Ed Barry
Bellyshooter, The The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1987 Bob Ost Brian Young
Betty Comes Alive Chapel Wall 1989 Dave Gardener Eric Gomper
Betty Does Yosemite Chapel Wall 1990 Tucker Tech
Big Fig, The The Cookie Cliff 1979 Charlie Row Bob Ramee
Bit of OK, A Wawona Tunnel 1993 Kevin Fosburg
Bitch's Galore Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1991 Eric Kohl
Black Angus Tenaya Canyon
Blank Out El Capitan: Southeast Base 1984 Eric Zschiesche Peter Croft
Blue Ribbon Elephant Rock 1982 Don Reid Michael Brocado
Bush League U.S.G.S Wall 1992 Ed Barry
Capital Punishment Oreo Cliff 1972 Chuck Pratt Bruce Price Jerry Anderson
Cascade Crack Cascade Falls 1970
Center Direct Reed's Pinnacle Area 1987 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall Ron Kauk Ed Barry
Center Route Yosemite Falls 1988 Jonny Woodward
Circular Staircase Sentinel Rock 1940 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Cisco Yosemite Falls 1991 Eric Kohl
Cold, Rain and Snow Half Dome 1989 Greg Murphy Elliott Robinson
Colonel Yosemite Falls Area: Upper
Cookie Continuation The Cookie Cliff
Cookie, The The Cookie Cliff 1958 Chuck Pratt Dick Sykes
Coup d'etat U.S.G.S Wall 1988 Ken Ariza
Crack Baby Chapel Wall 1990 Kevin Fosburg Eric Gomper
Crash Landing 1985 Dave Schultz
Creamatorium El Capitan 1976 Mark Blanchard Simon King Conrad Van Bruggen
Cross-Train Crack Arch Rock - Across the River 1988 Ken Ariza Cade Loyd
Crying for Mama Royal Arches Area 1986 Charles Cole John Middendorf
Dagger Yosemite Falls 1985 Walt Shipley Russ Walling
Danger Bird Yosemite Falls 1989 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Dark Cloud Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Dark Star Yosemite Falls 1986 Andy Burnham Michael Forkash
Dead Squirrel Glacier Point Apron: East 1985 Ray Sebastian Tim Felton
Deadline Dihedral Wawona Tunnel 1970 Rick Sylvester Jerry Coe
Dictionary, The Higher Cathedral Rock 1970 Ken Jern J. McMillan J. Catland
Dinner Ledge Direct Washington Column 1967 Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
Direct Direct Route Washington Column 1971 Bill Bostick Jack Delk Bill Sorenson
Direct Route Washington Column 1940 John Dyer Robin Hansen DeWitt Allen
Diversions Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1982 Marshall Ravencroft Tim Kemple
Dock of the Bay El Capitan: Southeast Base 1981 Bill Price Larry Zulim
Dromedary - The Hump The Owl Area 1971 Barry Bates Bev Johnson
Dumbo Go Home Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1985 John Middendorf Tucker Tech
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Gene
Social climber
Two hours away
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Ed,
From Roper’s 1971 Yosemite guide:
Arches Direct VI 5.8, A4. First 9 pitches are in the main arch of the Royal Arches
Circular Staircase on Sentinel Rock II 5.8. Near the West Face route
Dinner Ledge Direct IV 5.7, A4 7 pitches
Washington Column Direct III 5.7 Doesn’t Karl have a TR about this one?
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Arches Direct follows the real Royal Arch and is a doable traverse away from the leftmost route on the Arches Terrace slabs (I forget the name right now, but it's bolted and is rated 10d, I think.) A year ago I decided (without reconning it of course) that such an prominent line would have to go free at a reasonable standard. I shared the plan with my (much more able and experienced) friends. They laughed and laughed and laughed. I guess they'd seen it enough to know that it was choked with trees from beginning to end.
Anyway, one day we were trying to decide what to do, and I brought it up. Not being one's to decline a good obscure chossy adventure, we all headed up there. My friend led the first and only pitch that we climbed before escaping onto the slab. Between the large hunks of loose rock, dirt hummocks, and vegetables, it wasn't a very responsible thing to keep climbing with others running around the base. Staying in the filthy Arch would be contrived for a lot of it anyway since the slab is free climbable at 5.10 or less for the most part and the bolts are already in place.
Does anyone know (specifically) where Verde is?
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Gomp
climber
San Diego
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Ed,
"Betty comes alive" is a 10a sport-climb, via Dave's inspired vision, half a rope length,nice rock,really fun. I can't remember "Crack Baby", I'll appeal to Kevin for the info on that, but it is in the same area with alot of other routes, "Psycho Betty" which is a 5.9 corner, then a short thin crack to the left of that which is 10c, and then to the left of that is a long crack with a hard finish in a corner, 11a/b. The area is between chapel wall and the area that Final Cut is in.
 Eric
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Salami
Social climber
Livermore, CA
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I don't know what they are but sign me up!!! I will fall off of anything.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Crying for Mama is not particularly good or bad, but I remember it being fairly led-out and spicy. I headed up it years ago with a cute swim suit model in tow, expecting it to be standard 10a face romping, but remember gripping a bit more than I thought I should in an effort to not look like a gumby in front of the babe.
My trip report for the Column Direct is at
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&selm=120620021359534200%25guide%40NOSPAMnewsguy.com
Sorry for the Long URL. I hate what that does to these threads
Peace
karl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2003 - 07:02pm PT
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Wow! thanks for the info..
I am compiling, for no apparent reason, a comprehensive index of Yosemite Valley climbs, first ascent dates and people for an old research idea... the results of which I'll post once it is done...
So far A-D is something like 20 to 30% of the climbs in the Valley up to the Reid Guide... of course another is due out soon, but this is a good start.
I usually check the Roper guide, and the Meyers guide, so I goofed up posting some of these. Stay tuned for more information request.
Gary sent me a worried email that these will all show up on some famously insidious (or would that be infamously sidious) list of climbs-to-do... but mostly these are climbs that have dropped off the collective consciousness.
Thanks, more later soon.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Dagger should be in the Meyers guide, it's the right-leaning corner left of the 5.8 and twin 5.10a dihedrals on the left side as you head into the Lower Falls area. 5.11a, face to awesome tight leaning corner, crux over the roof right at the top. Jack Hoeflich replaced the protection bolt at the start and one anchor bolt a few years ago. Think the climb continued to the top but no one does anymore.
I heard (i.e. not sure) that the climb used to start from a huge pillar/flake that leaned against the wall, but then the flake pitched off, and the protection bolt was added later. Rusty 1/4" by the time Jack replaced it. The face looks intimidating but has better holds than you'd guess.
Greg
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2003 - 01:06am PT
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Dagger is listed in the index of the edition of the Meyers' guide that I have on page 105, but it is not on the topo list on that page. In Appendix III (First Ascents and First Free Ascents), the climb is listed between Moonbow and Shadow Wall, both of which appear on the topo...wierd... but the sort of thing that happens when you edit a book.
Looking at the topo, and Greg's description, the climb left of Black Wall, Blackout, has a right facing corner to a roof...
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weekender
climber
Oaklanc CA
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Elliot Robinson and I established Cold Rain and Snow in February 1989 on the Sunshine Buttress just right of the Porcelain Wall near Half Dome. 8 pitches, 5.10d. We hiked up Friday night from 10 to midnight or so and bivvied in a snow cave we dug. The climb leads to the rim near the start of Snake Dike. We did it in 1 day, everything onsite, no bolts. We rapped the route and bivvied in the snow cave again, then headed home the next day. Full value, 5 star, very trad with a little bit of OW, jungle and running slush.
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Dagger is rated 11a, I think. The face is not that bad, just reachy. The crack is sustained thin hands/off-fingers with some decent feet on the face. The crux is the finish. Super fun crag route. Quality all the way. I think that there's a topo for it in the old guide? It looks like a big dagger, so you can't miss it.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Can Windoze users open Stuffit .sit files?
I'm guessing Windows XP might do this, but I'm not sure.
If not, here's a .zip file which should work:
http://www.oceandave.com/Yo_walls_incomplete.xls.zip
Hardman Knott
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Cross-Train Crack is a 10b fist crack which Ariza free-solo'd for the first ascent.
Dave Yerian originally showed him the area, and put up some routes there as well.
Coup d'etat is near the Ranger Station, and might be outside the park.
The route is a 4-star 11d sport-route going up the center of the rock.
It was so-named because it was a "coup" to snag this line first.
It was called U.S.G.S. Wall by others who put up routes later.
Hardman Knott
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2003 - 12:10am PT
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Don't know where Verde is, but the list in the First Ascent Index of Reid's guide has the order:
Crimson Cringe (p56)
Polished Flake
Phoenix (p58)
On the Spot
Cascade Crack
Verde
Flake Off
False Verde (p59)
Phoenix is still on the west side of Cascade Creek... False Verde is on the east side...
Cascade Crack shown on p59 is rather indescript... and up stream. But that sort of narrows down where Verde is.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2003 - 02:27am PT
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Some more obscure routes for the officianados!
Flake Off Cascade Fall, Lower 1975 Bruce Pollock Jim Bridwell Jim Pettigrew Mark Klemens
Fireside Chat Reed's Pinnacle Area, Upper Right 1985 Walt Shipley John Middendorf
Eura Mura El Capitan: East Buttress 1983 Knez Franabcek Lidija Painkiher Igor Skamprle
Folly, The, Wild Thing The Folly 1973 Ray Jardine Ian Wade
Easy's Playhouse Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Eric Kohl
Eight Ball Slippin' Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Eric Kohl
Easy-Duz-It Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Eric Kohl
East of Paradise Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1983 Knez Franabcek Freser Marjan
East of Eden Serenity Crack Area 1985 Bob Gaines Jay Smith
Finish Work The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1989 Tucker Tech
Flake Route Glacier Point Apron 1962 Jerry Gray
Fly-Girls Chapel Wall Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Exploited Chapel Wall 1989 Pete Takeda Cade Loyd
First Movement Variation Chapel Wall 1969 Dan Gates Tim Fitzgerald
Fusilade Chapel Wall 1972 John Bragg Kevin Bein
Last Resort Pinnacle, The, Left Side Lost Brother 1972 Rik Rieder Dale Bard
Last Resort Pinnacle, The, Center Lost Brother 1972 Barry Bates Rik Rieder
Easy Street The Rostrum Area 1972 Jim Bridwell
Eagle Roof
Fawlty Towers Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1977 Alec Sharp Arni Strapcans
Full Steam Ahead Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1986 Rob Robinson Chris Snyder
Firewater Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Keith Reynolds
Exciter Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Kevin Fosburg Walt Shipley
Edge of Darkness Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Tucker Tech
Edge of Feckness Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Tucker Tech
Forbidden Pinnacle Continuation Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1989 Kevin Fosburg
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2003 - 02:27pm PT
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G's:
Good For Your Soul Staircase Falls 1988 Jason Campbell Brian Knight
Great Escape Chapel Wall 1993 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Green Carpet Treatment Wawona Tunnel 1970 Rick Sylvester Jerry Coe
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2003 - 01:34am PT
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And some obscure H's with no additional information:
Hand Out Roadside Attraction 1982 Rick Cashner Don Reid
Happy Trails Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1989 Tucker Tech
Headhunter Reed's Pinnacle Area 1985 John Bachar Rick Cashner
Hey Walt Mojo Tooth 1985 Walt Shipley
Historic Adventure, An Yosemite Falls 1989 Brian Knight Tom Borges Joel Hawk
Hobknob Oreo Cliff 1986 George Meyers Merrill Wilson
Hole Train Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Home-Boys Chapel Wall Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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East of Eden is a typical valley 5.10 slab pitch if I remember correctly.
My "Wild Thing" trip report is here
http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/WildThing!.html
Peace
karl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2003 - 09:39pm PT
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Obscure I,J and K's
I Saw A Sleaze Revisit Yosemite Falls 1989 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Iconoclast Chapel Wall 1982 Scott Cole
Isoceles Revisited Yosemite Falls 1986 Urmas Franosch Steve Plunkett Michael Forkash
Israeli Bomber Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1986 Walt Shipley Phil Chapman
Just Say Moe Yosemite Falls 1991 Brian Bennett Norman Boles Eric Mayo
Kundalini Express Sentinel Creek Area 1991 Kevin Fosburg Jordy Morgan
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