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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2003 - 01:38am PT
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Lack information on these L's:
Lamb Chop Chapel Wall
Larry, Moe and the Cheese Yosemite Falls 1986 Brian Bennett John Tuttle
Left Crack Guru Elephant Rock
Liberace's Lost Lover The Royal Arches: Base 1989 Tucker Tech
Licenced to Fly Middle Brother 1984 Jim Elias Bruce Morris
Life Worth Living El Capitan: Southeast Base 1985 Scott Cosgrove Ken Ariza
Light Weight Guides Yosemite Falls 1985 Grant Hiskes
Lingering Lines The Royal Arches: Base 1987 Tucker Tech Cade Loyd
Lower Cathedral Spire, South By Southwest Lower Cathedral Spire 1993 Walt Shipley Keith Reynolds
Lower Watkins Pinnacle Direct Mt. Watkins 1991 Tucker Tech Walt Shipley
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 10, 2003 - 01:34pm PT
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Lightweight guides in an excellent thin crack/stem/lieback route in the falls area. I think Brittany is shown climbing it in Kauk's excellent climbing flick "Ascending Rythym" either that or it's the next route over. There a top rope or two that can be set up after the pitch.
South by Southwest is reportedly very high quality. Hans Florine seems to love it and has done it a lot.
Peace
Karl
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Ben Wah
Trad climber
On the move
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Dec 10, 2003 - 03:43pm PT
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Ed,
Just curious, Why do you want all this beta? Is this your tick list? Most of these are obscure for the very reason that very little beta exists about them. The only way to gather info on them is to go climb them, unpleasant though it may be, since a lot of them are most likely absolute festivals of choss.
Good Luck
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2003 - 04:10pm PT
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Responding to Ben Wah -
this list of obscurities is a spinoff of another project that I am working on, the comprehensive index... which is motivated by a little curiousity...
The spinoff is the fact that there are climbs climbed that are not reported in the guides. The Supertopo Forum is a place where we can all ask for information... I just thought that I'd ask and see what the wide ranging and accomplished participants could add. The fact of the matter is that some climbs deserve obscurity, but as a general rule, such pronouncements are a statement of fashion rather then some absolute standard, if the routes exist. This last caveat is necessary to state since the Valley is in a dynamic state... this doesn't effect my interest, however.
So far from 1130 climbs the list of 93 or so obscurities seems to indicate that the vast majority of climbs reported are documented. Part of this thread is just finding out about the 10% of climbs not reported...
Could also be that the FA didn't want to report, which is cool by me.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Dec 10, 2003 - 04:23pm PT
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Re: Life Worth Living:
Cosgrove onsighted the first pitch (1st free ascent) of the aid route on N.A. wall,
and Ariza followed. It was rated 11d.
Hardman Knott
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Dec 10, 2003 - 06:31pm PT
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S by SW is far, far, far from an obscurity these days. There's a Supertopo for it, and that should just about say it all. Last year when were were climbing on the east side of Higher Spire we got to watch and hear (the acustics up there are amazing) the antics of 7 people clammoring up that relatively short route. (2 parties of 2 and a party of 3.)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2003 - 08:08pm PT
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I haven't a copy of the SuperTopo Valley climbs around, which is something I am in the process of correcting...Gary emailed me that he know about S x SW too... take the "obscurities" label with a grain of salt from this old guy!
Thanks for the info...
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Dec 10, 2003 - 08:19pm PT
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Hey Ed, you should double-check that list against the early 90s (i.e. current) Reid guide, I'm pretty positive that at least Great Escape (and I think several others you list on Chapel Wall) are covered (don't have the book handy). There's that sport climbing guide to the Valley from around 5 years ago that includes a lot of those that the Reid guide doesn't (since the NPS asked him to keep it out due to the sensitive plant community at the base). Greg
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Gomp
climber
San Diego
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Dec 10, 2003 - 09:02pm PT
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Yes, I do remember giving Don Reid all the info...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2003 - 10:32pm PT
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Great Escape is not in the version of the Reid guide that I have... I do recall that sports climbing guide, I'll look around for it (don't have it in my library).
And I am sympathetic with closures. Nothing gets the blood boiling around my house like a discussion of gardening a climb (my wife is a restoration biologist).
If there is information that people want to give on these climbs that's great, I'd like to hear... but as I said, its cool by me to keep this stuff under wraps... I am interested in who did what when, my personel tick list is already too long!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2003 - 01:29am PT
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OK, this may seem like torture at this point! M's and N's
Mean Streaks Yosemite Falls 1989 Kevin Fosburg Cade Loyd
Mistfitz Yosemite Falls 1985 Kurt Smith Dave Griffith Chris Beigh
Mr. Clean Chapel Wall 1989 Eric Gomper Dave Gardener
Mr. Pink-eyes Chapel Wall 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Mr. Rabbit Glacier Point Apron: East 1989 Ray Sebastian Tim Felton
Mud, Sweat and Beers Glacier Point Apron: East 1973 Tony Dailley Bob Madison
Nanbeeb Yosemite Falls 1986 Michael Forkash Andy Burnham
Nine Lives Continuation Pat and Jack Pinnacle 1988 Ron Skelton Greg Magruder
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade Chapel Wall 1991 Andrew Stevens Dan McDevitt
No Teats Upper Yosemite Falls 1986 Susan Lilly Tucker Tech
Not What it Seams Yosemite Falls 1989 Mark Carpenter
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2003 - 01:31am PT
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The 1996 sports climb guide book is:
"Yosemite Valley Sports Climbs" by Falkenstein, 1996
52 pages, 150 routes...
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Dec 14, 2003 - 01:42am PT
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Mr. Pink-eyes is an 11 (11d?), fun route, followed it years ago, got attacked by yellow jackets while belaying.
The fragile plant community was at the base, not a "gardening" issue. I think there was some question as to the validity of the NPS concerns, talked to Don about the various areas not included in the guide, he was debating what to include in the next edition (main debate was the lower falls area, he was leaning heavily towards including that area especially in light of the mega NPS construction project).
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2003 - 04:07am PT
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I'm slowing down on this... here are O's and P's
October Country Arch Rock: Across the River 1971 Darwin Alonso Jack Roberts
Once is Enough Staircase Falls 1980 Bill Price Larry Zulim Jim Hevner
Outta Hand Roadside Attraction 1982 Dale Bard Rick Cashner
Pass-out Yosemite Falls 1992 Eric Kohl
Penelope's Problem Swan Slab 1972 John Long Tony Zeek
Peril Drops Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Eric Kohl
Phyllis El Capitan: Southwest Base 1981 Mike Forkash Peter Lahrach
Pink Panther Chapel Wall 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Pit Stop Upper Yosemite Falls 1986 Phil Chapman Walt Shipley
Play Misty for Me Yosemite Falls 1985 Kurt Smith Dave Hatchett Ken Ariza Dave Griffith
Pocket Pussy Yosemite Falls 1991 Eric Kohl
Police State Indian Canyon Urmas Franosch Dennis Oakeshott
Pork Chop Chapel Wall
Porker Party Cascade Falls Area 1984 Dave Schultz John Middendorff Joe Hedge
Powerslave Yosemite Falls 1985 Kurt Smith Dave Hatchett Ken Ariza
Psychopath Upper Yosemite Falls 1972 Charlie Porter
Public Opinion Yosemite Falls 1986 Grant Hiskes Ken Yager
Puddle With A Mohawk The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1987 Rick Molinar Bob Ost Karl Sonnberger
Puke Ledge Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1970 Ron Cagle Jerry Anderson
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Dec 19, 2003 - 10:43am PT
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What?! You're not curious about the Piton Traverse on Washington Column? It's in the green Roper guide (must be in the red one too). I was benighted on that route in '75. I don't remember much about it beyond that, to tell the truth. Oh, I somehow got myself wedged behind a refrigerator-sized block at one point. When I took a deep breath, the block moved.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2003 - 11:47pm PT
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Hi Larry -
I have info on Piton Traverse, so I didn't include it in the list. Generally, all the information I have found on a route I include on the line in the lists here... I occasionally overlook the fact that an obscure climb has become fashionable again and appears in new guides. Some climbs have only a name, not even a climbing area.
Of Piton Traverse, Roper, '71 (the "Green Guide"), has the comment: "This route is seldom done; apparently a rockslide has destroyed part of the route, increasing its difficulty from its original 5.5. The climb is not recommended."
What possessed you to climb this route? You didn't believe that stuff about Roper being a chickenshit did you? (That would be an old school chickensh#t, something I aspire to).
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2003 - 03:21am PT
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Here are R's....
Raging Bull Chapel Wall 1989 Eric Gomper Dave Gardener
Razor Train Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Re-sole Fusion Swan Slab 1989 Dave Tucker
Revenge of the Nerds Arch Rock: Across the River 1988 Dave Yerian Jack Roberts
Roachweed Middle Brother: Base 1983 Bruce Morris Jim Elias
Roadside Destruction Roadside Attraction Area 1989 Tucker Tech Ray Olson
Rock-Shock Chapel Wall 1991 Andrew Stevens Dan McDevitt
Roller Coaster Glacier Point Apron 1986 Ken Ariza Mike Hatchett Mark Carpenter
Rolo-Solo Arch Rock: Across the River 1988 Ken Ariza Cade Loyd
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2003 - 12:21am PT
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I am almost done, the S's were huge, but not much left:
Safe to Surf Lower Yosemite Falls: East, Sunyside Bench 1985 Bob Ost Matt Hilden
Scattered Youth Chapel Wall
Scavanger Chapel Wall 1988 Ken Ariza Pete Takeda Cade Loyd
Seand Paradise Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1982 Knez Franabcek Freabser Marjan
Sex Drive Tenaya Canyon 1988 Tucker Tech Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Shift City Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Eric Kohl
Short but in the Shade Wawona Tunnel Area 1990 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson
Shot in the Dark, A Elephant Rock 1978 Rob Ramey Nick Badyrka
Slander Session The Royal Arches: Terrace Area
Slut Wagon Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl
Snake El Capitan: Southeast Base 1983 Knez Franabcek Wallace
Spray Fest Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1991 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Stanford Point, North Face III 273(Roper'71) Fifi Buttress Area 1942 Dave Brower L. Bruce Meyer Morgan Harris Alan Hedden
Stranger then Friction The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1989 Tucker Tech
Survival Sampler Reed's Pinnacle Area 1985 Alfred Randall Bryan Burdo
Swan Song Swan Slab 1989 Ron Skelton
Switchblade Chapel Wall 1991 Dan McDevitt
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2003 - 03:05am PT
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the T's ... lots of obscurity here:
Taste Buds Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Teacher's Pet Arch Rock: Across the River 1988 Dave Yerian Cade Loyd Ken Ariza Merry McGrath-Braun
Teaching Little Fingers Middle Cathedral Rock: North Face Apron 1985 Eric Gompers Dan Parks Raph Shaffer
Ten Years After Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1985 Ken Ariza Kurt Smith
Tennessee Strings The Cookie Cliff 1986 Rob Robinson Cade Loyd
Thunderbird Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1991 Eric Kohl
Tips are for Kids Wawona Tunnel Area 1993 Kevin Fosburg
Token of Our Extreme Elephant Rock Area 1989 Tucker Tech Ray Olson
Too Big for Her Top Elephant Rock Area 1985 Peter Chesko Bill Russell
Too Munge Fun Washington Column: Base 1987 Tucker Tech John Harpole
Trailside Bandit Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Tucker Tech
Trailside Slasher Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Tucker Tech
True Grit Eagle Creek Area: Manure Pile Buttress 1974 Dave Altman Will Crljenko
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 24, 2003 - 06:16pm PT
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Safe to Surf is a short fun face route up and right of the Sunnyside jam area. Fairly light for 10a.
Ten Years After is a megaclassic 10d fingercrack that's so near the lower Yosemite Falls (on the left) that it can't be done in high water due to spray. It's on Kauk's Ascending Rythym Video being climbed led by a woman but I can't remember who.
Peace
karl
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