Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 48 of total 48 in this topic |
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 4, 2003 - 02:35am PT
|
Hi All,
I was wondering if any of you knew something about the following list of obscure Valley climbs... info like rating, grade, number of pitches, nearby better known climbs, etc.
thanks in advance for any help.
5.8 Chimney Goldrush Area 1970 Matt Donohoe
ABC Route Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1985 Ron Kauk Jerry Moffat
Arches Direct The Royal Arches 1960 Royal Robbins Joe Fitschen
Beat the Rap Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Ron Skelton Ed Barry
Bellyshooter, The The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1987 Bob Ost Brian Young
Betty Comes Alive Chapel Wall 1989 Dave Gardener Eric Gomper
Betty Does Yosemite Chapel Wall 1990 Tucker Tech
Big Fig, The The Cookie Cliff 1979 Charlie Row Bob Ramee
Bit of OK, A Wawona Tunnel 1993 Kevin Fosburg
Bitch's Galore Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1991 Eric Kohl
Black Angus Tenaya Canyon
Blank Out El Capitan: Southeast Base 1984 Eric Zschiesche Peter Croft
Blue Ribbon Elephant Rock 1982 Don Reid Michael Brocado
Bush League U.S.G.S Wall 1992 Ed Barry
Capital Punishment Oreo Cliff 1972 Chuck Pratt Bruce Price Jerry Anderson
Cascade Crack Cascade Falls 1970
Center Direct Reed's Pinnacle Area 1987 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall Ron Kauk Ed Barry
Center Route Yosemite Falls 1988 Jonny Woodward
Circular Staircase Sentinel Rock 1940 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Cisco Yosemite Falls 1991 Eric Kohl
Cold, Rain and Snow Half Dome 1989 Greg Murphy Elliott Robinson
Colonel Yosemite Falls Area: Upper
Cookie Continuation The Cookie Cliff
Cookie, The The Cookie Cliff 1958 Chuck Pratt Dick Sykes
Coup d'etat U.S.G.S Wall 1988 Ken Ariza
Crack Baby Chapel Wall 1990 Kevin Fosburg Eric Gomper
Crash Landing 1985 Dave Schultz
Creamatorium El Capitan 1976 Mark Blanchard Simon King Conrad Van Bruggen
Cross-Train Crack Arch Rock - Across the River 1988 Ken Ariza Cade Loyd
Crying for Mama Royal Arches Area 1986 Charles Cole John Middendorf
Dagger Yosemite Falls 1985 Walt Shipley Russ Walling
Danger Bird Yosemite Falls 1989 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Dark Cloud Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Dark Star Yosemite Falls 1986 Andy Burnham Michael Forkash
Dead Squirrel Glacier Point Apron: East 1985 Ray Sebastian Tim Felton
Deadline Dihedral Wawona Tunnel 1970 Rick Sylvester Jerry Coe
Dictionary, The Higher Cathedral Rock 1970 Ken Jern J. McMillan J. Catland
Dinner Ledge Direct Washington Column 1967 Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
Direct Direct Route Washington Column 1971 Bill Bostick Jack Delk Bill Sorenson
Direct Route Washington Column 1940 John Dyer Robin Hansen DeWitt Allen
Diversions Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1982 Marshall Ravencroft Tim Kemple
Dock of the Bay El Capitan: Southeast Base 1981 Bill Price Larry Zulim
Dromedary - The Hump The Owl Area 1971 Barry Bates Bev Johnson
Dumbo Go Home Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1985 John Middendorf Tucker Tech
|
|
Gene
Social climber
Two hours away
|
|
Ed,
From Roper’s 1971 Yosemite guide:
Arches Direct VI 5.8, A4. First 9 pitches are in the main arch of the Royal Arches
Circular Staircase on Sentinel Rock II 5.8. Near the West Face route
Dinner Ledge Direct IV 5.7, A4 7 pitches
Washington Column Direct III 5.7 Doesn’t Karl have a TR about this one?
|
|
Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
|
|
Arches Direct follows the real Royal Arch and is a doable traverse away from the leftmost route on the Arches Terrace slabs (I forget the name right now, but it's bolted and is rated 10d, I think.) A year ago I decided (without reconning it of course) that such an prominent line would have to go free at a reasonable standard. I shared the plan with my (much more able and experienced) friends. They laughed and laughed and laughed. I guess they'd seen it enough to know that it was choked with trees from beginning to end.
Anyway, one day we were trying to decide what to do, and I brought it up. Not being one's to decline a good obscure chossy adventure, we all headed up there. My friend led the first and only pitch that we climbed before escaping onto the slab. Between the large hunks of loose rock, dirt hummocks, and vegetables, it wasn't a very responsible thing to keep climbing with others running around the base. Staying in the filthy Arch would be contrived for a lot of it anyway since the slab is free climbable at 5.10 or less for the most part and the bolts are already in place.
Does anyone know (specifically) where Verde is?
|
|
Gomp
climber
San Diego
|
|
Ed,
"Betty comes alive" is a 10a sport-climb, via Dave's inspired vision, half a rope length,nice rock,really fun. I can't remember "Crack Baby", I'll appeal to Kevin for the info on that, but it is in the same area with alot of other routes, "Psycho Betty" which is a 5.9 corner, then a short thin crack to the left of that which is 10c, and then to the left of that is a long crack with a hard finish in a corner, 11a/b. The area is between chapel wall and the area that Final Cut is in.
 Eric
|
|
Salami
Social climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
I don't know what they are but sign me up!!! I will fall off of anything.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
Crying for Mama is not particularly good or bad, but I remember it being fairly led-out and spicy. I headed up it years ago with a cute swim suit model in tow, expecting it to be standard 10a face romping, but remember gripping a bit more than I thought I should in an effort to not look like a gumby in front of the babe.
My trip report for the Column Direct is at
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&selm=120620021359534200%25guide%40NOSPAMnewsguy.com
Sorry for the Long URL. I hate what that does to these threads
Peace
karl
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2003 - 07:02pm PT
|
Wow! thanks for the info..
I am compiling, for no apparent reason, a comprehensive index of Yosemite Valley climbs, first ascent dates and people for an old research idea... the results of which I'll post once it is done...
So far A-D is something like 20 to 30% of the climbs in the Valley up to the Reid Guide... of course another is due out soon, but this is a good start.
I usually check the Roper guide, and the Meyers guide, so I goofed up posting some of these. Stay tuned for more information request.
Gary sent me a worried email that these will all show up on some famously insidious (or would that be infamously sidious) list of climbs-to-do... but mostly these are climbs that have dropped off the collective consciousness.
Thanks, more later soon.
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
Dagger should be in the Meyers guide, it's the right-leaning corner left of the 5.8 and twin 5.10a dihedrals on the left side as you head into the Lower Falls area. 5.11a, face to awesome tight leaning corner, crux over the roof right at the top. Jack Hoeflich replaced the protection bolt at the start and one anchor bolt a few years ago. Think the climb continued to the top but no one does anymore.
I heard (i.e. not sure) that the climb used to start from a huge pillar/flake that leaned against the wall, but then the flake pitched off, and the protection bolt was added later. Rusty 1/4" by the time Jack replaced it. The face looks intimidating but has better holds than you'd guess.
Greg
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2003 - 01:06am PT
|
Dagger is listed in the index of the edition of the Meyers' guide that I have on page 105, but it is not on the topo list on that page. In Appendix III (First Ascents and First Free Ascents), the climb is listed between Moonbow and Shadow Wall, both of which appear on the topo...wierd... but the sort of thing that happens when you edit a book.
Looking at the topo, and Greg's description, the climb left of Black Wall, Blackout, has a right facing corner to a roof...
|
|
weekender
climber
Oaklanc CA
|
|
Elliot Robinson and I established Cold Rain and Snow in February 1989 on the Sunshine Buttress just right of the Porcelain Wall near Half Dome. 8 pitches, 5.10d. We hiked up Friday night from 10 to midnight or so and bivvied in a snow cave we dug. The climb leads to the rim near the start of Snake Dike. We did it in 1 day, everything onsite, no bolts. We rapped the route and bivvied in the snow cave again, then headed home the next day. Full value, 5 star, very trad with a little bit of OW, jungle and running slush.
|
|
Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
|
|
Dagger is rated 11a, I think. The face is not that bad, just reachy. The crack is sustained thin hands/off-fingers with some decent feet on the face. The crux is the finish. Super fun crag route. Quality all the way. I think that there's a topo for it in the old guide? It looks like a big dagger, so you can't miss it.
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
|
|
Can Windoze users open Stuffit .sit files?
I'm guessing Windows XP might do this, but I'm not sure.
If not, here's a .zip file which should work:
http://www.oceandave.com/Yo_walls_incomplete.xls.zip
Hardman Knott
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
|
|
Cross-Train Crack is a 10b fist crack which Ariza free-solo'd for the first ascent.
Dave Yerian originally showed him the area, and put up some routes there as well.
Coup d'etat is near the Ranger Station, and might be outside the park.
The route is a 4-star 11d sport-route going up the center of the rock.
It was so-named because it was a "coup" to snag this line first.
It was called U.S.G.S. Wall by others who put up routes later.
Hardman Knott
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2003 - 12:10am PT
|
Don't know where Verde is, but the list in the First Ascent Index of Reid's guide has the order:
Crimson Cringe (p56)
Polished Flake
Phoenix (p58)
On the Spot
Cascade Crack
Verde
Flake Off
False Verde (p59)
Phoenix is still on the west side of Cascade Creek... False Verde is on the east side...
Cascade Crack shown on p59 is rather indescript... and up stream. But that sort of narrows down where Verde is.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2003 - 02:27am PT
|
Some more obscure routes for the officianados!
Flake Off Cascade Fall, Lower 1975 Bruce Pollock Jim Bridwell Jim Pettigrew Mark Klemens
Fireside Chat Reed's Pinnacle Area, Upper Right 1985 Walt Shipley John Middendorf
Eura Mura El Capitan: East Buttress 1983 Knez Franabcek Lidija Painkiher Igor Skamprle
Folly, The, Wild Thing The Folly 1973 Ray Jardine Ian Wade
Easy's Playhouse Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Eric Kohl
Eight Ball Slippin' Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Eric Kohl
Easy-Duz-It Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Eric Kohl
East of Paradise Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1983 Knez Franabcek Freser Marjan
East of Eden Serenity Crack Area 1985 Bob Gaines Jay Smith
Finish Work The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1989 Tucker Tech
Flake Route Glacier Point Apron 1962 Jerry Gray
Fly-Girls Chapel Wall Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Exploited Chapel Wall 1989 Pete Takeda Cade Loyd
First Movement Variation Chapel Wall 1969 Dan Gates Tim Fitzgerald
Fusilade Chapel Wall 1972 John Bragg Kevin Bein
Last Resort Pinnacle, The, Left Side Lost Brother 1972 Rik Rieder Dale Bard
Last Resort Pinnacle, The, Center Lost Brother 1972 Barry Bates Rik Rieder
Easy Street The Rostrum Area 1972 Jim Bridwell
Eagle Roof
Fawlty Towers Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1977 Alec Sharp Arni Strapcans
Full Steam Ahead Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1986 Rob Robinson Chris Snyder
Firewater Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Keith Reynolds
Exciter Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Kevin Fosburg Walt Shipley
Edge of Darkness Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Tucker Tech
Edge of Feckness Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Tucker Tech
Forbidden Pinnacle Continuation Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1989 Kevin Fosburg
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2003 - 02:27pm PT
|
G's:
Good For Your Soul Staircase Falls 1988 Jason Campbell Brian Knight
Great Escape Chapel Wall 1993 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Green Carpet Treatment Wawona Tunnel 1970 Rick Sylvester Jerry Coe
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2003 - 01:34am PT
|
And some obscure H's with no additional information:
Hand Out Roadside Attraction 1982 Rick Cashner Don Reid
Happy Trails Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1989 Tucker Tech
Headhunter Reed's Pinnacle Area 1985 John Bachar Rick Cashner
Hey Walt Mojo Tooth 1985 Walt Shipley
Historic Adventure, An Yosemite Falls 1989 Brian Knight Tom Borges Joel Hawk
Hobknob Oreo Cliff 1986 George Meyers Merrill Wilson
Hole Train Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Home-Boys Chapel Wall Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
East of Eden is a typical valley 5.10 slab pitch if I remember correctly.
My "Wild Thing" trip report is here
http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/WildThing!.html
Peace
karl
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2003 - 09:39pm PT
|
Obscure I,J and K's
I Saw A Sleaze Revisit Yosemite Falls 1989 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Iconoclast Chapel Wall 1982 Scott Cole
Isoceles Revisited Yosemite Falls 1986 Urmas Franosch Steve Plunkett Michael Forkash
Israeli Bomber Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1986 Walt Shipley Phil Chapman
Just Say Moe Yosemite Falls 1991 Brian Bennett Norman Boles Eric Mayo
Kundalini Express Sentinel Creek Area 1991 Kevin Fosburg Jordy Morgan
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2003 - 01:38am PT
|
Lack information on these L's:
Lamb Chop Chapel Wall
Larry, Moe and the Cheese Yosemite Falls 1986 Brian Bennett John Tuttle
Left Crack Guru Elephant Rock
Liberace's Lost Lover The Royal Arches: Base 1989 Tucker Tech
Licenced to Fly Middle Brother 1984 Jim Elias Bruce Morris
Life Worth Living El Capitan: Southeast Base 1985 Scott Cosgrove Ken Ariza
Light Weight Guides Yosemite Falls 1985 Grant Hiskes
Lingering Lines The Royal Arches: Base 1987 Tucker Tech Cade Loyd
Lower Cathedral Spire, South By Southwest Lower Cathedral Spire 1993 Walt Shipley Keith Reynolds
Lower Watkins Pinnacle Direct Mt. Watkins 1991 Tucker Tech Walt Shipley
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2003 - 01:34pm PT
|
Lightweight guides in an excellent thin crack/stem/lieback route in the falls area. I think Brittany is shown climbing it in Kauk's excellent climbing flick "Ascending Rythym" either that or it's the next route over. There a top rope or two that can be set up after the pitch.
South by Southwest is reportedly very high quality. Hans Florine seems to love it and has done it a lot.
Peace
Karl
|
|
Ben Wah
Trad climber
On the move
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2003 - 03:43pm PT
|
Ed,
Just curious, Why do you want all this beta? Is this your tick list? Most of these are obscure for the very reason that very little beta exists about them. The only way to gather info on them is to go climb them, unpleasant though it may be, since a lot of them are most likely absolute festivals of choss.
Good Luck
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2003 - 04:10pm PT
|
Responding to Ben Wah -
this list of obscurities is a spinoff of another project that I am working on, the comprehensive index... which is motivated by a little curiousity...
The spinoff is the fact that there are climbs climbed that are not reported in the guides. The Supertopo Forum is a place where we can all ask for information... I just thought that I'd ask and see what the wide ranging and accomplished participants could add. The fact of the matter is that some climbs deserve obscurity, but as a general rule, such pronouncements are a statement of fashion rather then some absolute standard, if the routes exist. This last caveat is necessary to state since the Valley is in a dynamic state... this doesn't effect my interest, however.
So far from 1130 climbs the list of 93 or so obscurities seems to indicate that the vast majority of climbs reported are documented. Part of this thread is just finding out about the 10% of climbs not reported...
Could also be that the FA didn't want to report, which is cool by me.
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2003 - 04:23pm PT
|
Re: Life Worth Living:
Cosgrove onsighted the first pitch (1st free ascent) of the aid route on N.A. wall,
and Ariza followed. It was rated 11d.
Hardman Knott
|
|
Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2003 - 06:31pm PT
|
S by SW is far, far, far from an obscurity these days. There's a Supertopo for it, and that should just about say it all. Last year when were were climbing on the east side of Higher Spire we got to watch and hear (the acustics up there are amazing) the antics of 7 people clammoring up that relatively short route. (2 parties of 2 and a party of 3.)
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2003 - 08:08pm PT
|
I haven't a copy of the SuperTopo Valley climbs around, which is something I am in the process of correcting...Gary emailed me that he know about S x SW too... take the "obscurities" label with a grain of salt from this old guy!
Thanks for the info...
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2003 - 08:19pm PT
|
Hey Ed, you should double-check that list against the early 90s (i.e. current) Reid guide, I'm pretty positive that at least Great Escape (and I think several others you list on Chapel Wall) are covered (don't have the book handy). There's that sport climbing guide to the Valley from around 5 years ago that includes a lot of those that the Reid guide doesn't (since the NPS asked him to keep it out due to the sensitive plant community at the base). Greg
|
|
Gomp
climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2003 - 09:02pm PT
|
Yes, I do remember giving Don Reid all the info...
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2003 - 10:32pm PT
|
Great Escape is not in the version of the Reid guide that I have... I do recall that sports climbing guide, I'll look around for it (don't have it in my library).
And I am sympathetic with closures. Nothing gets the blood boiling around my house like a discussion of gardening a climb (my wife is a restoration biologist).
If there is information that people want to give on these climbs that's great, I'd like to hear... but as I said, its cool by me to keep this stuff under wraps... I am interested in who did what when, my personel tick list is already too long!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2003 - 01:29am PT
|
OK, this may seem like torture at this point! M's and N's
Mean Streaks Yosemite Falls 1989 Kevin Fosburg Cade Loyd
Mistfitz Yosemite Falls 1985 Kurt Smith Dave Griffith Chris Beigh
Mr. Clean Chapel Wall 1989 Eric Gomper Dave Gardener
Mr. Pink-eyes Chapel Wall 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Mr. Rabbit Glacier Point Apron: East 1989 Ray Sebastian Tim Felton
Mud, Sweat and Beers Glacier Point Apron: East 1973 Tony Dailley Bob Madison
Nanbeeb Yosemite Falls 1986 Michael Forkash Andy Burnham
Nine Lives Continuation Pat and Jack Pinnacle 1988 Ron Skelton Greg Magruder
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade Chapel Wall 1991 Andrew Stevens Dan McDevitt
No Teats Upper Yosemite Falls 1986 Susan Lilly Tucker Tech
Not What it Seams Yosemite Falls 1989 Mark Carpenter
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2003 - 01:31am PT
|
The 1996 sports climb guide book is:
"Yosemite Valley Sports Climbs" by Falkenstein, 1996
52 pages, 150 routes...
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
|
Dec 14, 2003 - 01:42am PT
|
Mr. Pink-eyes is an 11 (11d?), fun route, followed it years ago, got attacked by yellow jackets while belaying.
The fragile plant community was at the base, not a "gardening" issue. I think there was some question as to the validity of the NPS concerns, talked to Don about the various areas not included in the guide, he was debating what to include in the next edition (main debate was the lower falls area, he was leaning heavily towards including that area especially in light of the mega NPS construction project).
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2003 - 04:07am PT
|
I'm slowing down on this... here are O's and P's
October Country Arch Rock: Across the River 1971 Darwin Alonso Jack Roberts
Once is Enough Staircase Falls 1980 Bill Price Larry Zulim Jim Hevner
Outta Hand Roadside Attraction 1982 Dale Bard Rick Cashner
Pass-out Yosemite Falls 1992 Eric Kohl
Penelope's Problem Swan Slab 1972 John Long Tony Zeek
Peril Drops Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Eric Kohl
Phyllis El Capitan: Southwest Base 1981 Mike Forkash Peter Lahrach
Pink Panther Chapel Wall 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Pit Stop Upper Yosemite Falls 1986 Phil Chapman Walt Shipley
Play Misty for Me Yosemite Falls 1985 Kurt Smith Dave Hatchett Ken Ariza Dave Griffith
Pocket Pussy Yosemite Falls 1991 Eric Kohl
Police State Indian Canyon Urmas Franosch Dennis Oakeshott
Pork Chop Chapel Wall
Porker Party Cascade Falls Area 1984 Dave Schultz John Middendorff Joe Hedge
Powerslave Yosemite Falls 1985 Kurt Smith Dave Hatchett Ken Ariza
Psychopath Upper Yosemite Falls 1972 Charlie Porter
Public Opinion Yosemite Falls 1986 Grant Hiskes Ken Yager
Puddle With A Mohawk The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1987 Rick Molinar Bob Ost Karl Sonnberger
Puke Ledge Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1970 Ron Cagle Jerry Anderson
|
|
Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2003 - 10:43am PT
|
What?! You're not curious about the Piton Traverse on Washington Column? It's in the green Roper guide (must be in the red one too). I was benighted on that route in '75. I don't remember much about it beyond that, to tell the truth. Oh, I somehow got myself wedged behind a refrigerator-sized block at one point. When I took a deep breath, the block moved.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2003 - 11:47pm PT
|
Hi Larry -
I have info on Piton Traverse, so I didn't include it in the list. Generally, all the information I have found on a route I include on the line in the lists here... I occasionally overlook the fact that an obscure climb has become fashionable again and appears in new guides. Some climbs have only a name, not even a climbing area.
Of Piton Traverse, Roper, '71 (the "Green Guide"), has the comment: "This route is seldom done; apparently a rockslide has destroyed part of the route, increasing its difficulty from its original 5.5. The climb is not recommended."
What possessed you to climb this route? You didn't believe that stuff about Roper being a chickenshit did you? (That would be an old school chickensh#t, something I aspire to).
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2003 - 03:21am PT
|
Here are R's....
Raging Bull Chapel Wall 1989 Eric Gomper Dave Gardener
Razor Train Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Re-sole Fusion Swan Slab 1989 Dave Tucker
Revenge of the Nerds Arch Rock: Across the River 1988 Dave Yerian Jack Roberts
Roachweed Middle Brother: Base 1983 Bruce Morris Jim Elias
Roadside Destruction Roadside Attraction Area 1989 Tucker Tech Ray Olson
Rock-Shock Chapel Wall 1991 Andrew Stevens Dan McDevitt
Roller Coaster Glacier Point Apron 1986 Ken Ariza Mike Hatchett Mark Carpenter
Rolo-Solo Arch Rock: Across the River 1988 Ken Ariza Cade Loyd
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2003 - 12:21am PT
|
I am almost done, the S's were huge, but not much left:
Safe to Surf Lower Yosemite Falls: East, Sunyside Bench 1985 Bob Ost Matt Hilden
Scattered Youth Chapel Wall
Scavanger Chapel Wall 1988 Ken Ariza Pete Takeda Cade Loyd
Seand Paradise Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1982 Knez Franabcek Freabser Marjan
Sex Drive Tenaya Canyon 1988 Tucker Tech Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Shift City Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Eric Kohl
Short but in the Shade Wawona Tunnel Area 1990 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson
Shot in the Dark, A Elephant Rock 1978 Rob Ramey Nick Badyrka
Slander Session The Royal Arches: Terrace Area
Slut Wagon Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl
Snake El Capitan: Southeast Base 1983 Knez Franabcek Wallace
Spray Fest Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1991 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Stanford Point, North Face III 273(Roper'71) Fifi Buttress Area 1942 Dave Brower L. Bruce Meyer Morgan Harris Alan Hedden
Stranger then Friction The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1989 Tucker Tech
Survival Sampler Reed's Pinnacle Area 1985 Alfred Randall Bryan Burdo
Swan Song Swan Slab 1989 Ron Skelton
Switchblade Chapel Wall 1991 Dan McDevitt
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2003 - 03:05am PT
|
the T's ... lots of obscurity here:
Taste Buds Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Teacher's Pet Arch Rock: Across the River 1988 Dave Yerian Cade Loyd Ken Ariza Merry McGrath-Braun
Teaching Little Fingers Middle Cathedral Rock: North Face Apron 1985 Eric Gompers Dan Parks Raph Shaffer
Ten Years After Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1985 Ken Ariza Kurt Smith
Tennessee Strings The Cookie Cliff 1986 Rob Robinson Cade Loyd
Thunderbird Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1991 Eric Kohl
Tips are for Kids Wawona Tunnel Area 1993 Kevin Fosburg
Token of Our Extreme Elephant Rock Area 1989 Tucker Tech Ray Olson
Too Big for Her Top Elephant Rock Area 1985 Peter Chesko Bill Russell
Too Munge Fun Washington Column: Base 1987 Tucker Tech John Harpole
Trailside Bandit Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Tucker Tech
Trailside Slasher Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Tucker Tech
True Grit Eagle Creek Area: Manure Pile Buttress 1974 Dave Altman Will Crljenko
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2003 - 06:16pm PT
|
Safe to Surf is a short fun face route up and right of the Sunnyside jam area. Fairly light for 10a.
Ten Years After is a megaclassic 10d fingercrack that's so near the lower Yosemite Falls (on the left) that it can't be done in high water due to spray. It's on Kauk's Ascending Rythym Video being climbed led by a woman but I can't remember who.
Peace
karl
|
|
ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
|
|
|
Dec 25, 2003 - 03:10pm PT
|
The Dromedary Direct is a good route,hands fingers and OW.(8in.pro.) Wild Thing is also good,AKA Wide thing.After traversing off the Folly,best to take the first set of cracks to top,hands and fingers,Then lip travers left,heal hooking to horizontil finger crack,(5.10)then rejoin the original route.This bypasses the canoe sized death block on the original route(scary loose) and makes for some fine climbing.Good wide climbing above.Wet till late spring/summer.Bring several 6 to 8 in. pieces for last 3 pitches. Washington Column Direct is a good, moderate route.There is a good description of it in the Roper Guide.Be careful of getting off route on the first traverse,(easy to miss),and travesing to the Great Chimney,(also easy to miss).Many off route trafic marks and old slings make route finding dificult sometimes.The Last pitch exit is also tricky to determin the best way to go.
|
|
ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2003 - 02:38am PT
|
Nine Lives Continuation-this adds some length and sport to the route,steepens up at the end with a mantle up high. The Verde and The False Verde are the same route.Good climbing,knob tieoffs on first pitch,fist crack/lieback on second pitch.Careful of very loose block(s) at end of second pitch.
|
|
Gomp
climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2003 - 10:13am PT
|
"Ten Years After" is really a great climb! Highly recommended.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2003 - 06:25pm PT
|
Thanks for your patience... the last bit...
Vegmite The Rostrum 1989 Elliot Robinson Greg Murphy
Verde Cascade Falls Area 1975 Bruce Pollock Jim Bridwell Jim Pettigrew
Waltzing Mathilda The Rostrum Area 1992 Greg Murphy Elliot Robinson
Watkins Gully p164 Roper'71 Mt. Watkins 1946 Robin Hansen Fritz Lippmann Rolf Pundt
Werner's Oversight Swan Slab 1972 Mark Moore Dave Hitchcock
West Corner Half Dome 1961 Bob Kamps Dave Rearick
Wharf Rat The Royal Arches: Base
Whipping Post Upper Yosemite Falls: East
White Rain Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Eric Kohl
Wild at Heart Glacier Point Apron 1990 Mark Spencer
Wrinkle Chapel Wall 1972 John Bragg Rab Carrington
Zap the Gipper Glacier Point Apron 1985 Scott Cosgrove
ablegable has Verde and False Verde the same, though the guides list different FA's (False Verde FA 1974 Bob Finn and Don Reid).
Thanks again to all who have helped out with additional beta on these climbs!
|
|
ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2003 - 12:06am PT
|
The topos for False Verde & Verde are the same,the first ascent credits are different.Topos are on pg#67 in Meyers/Reid(1987) and on pg#59 in Reid book(1994).
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2003 - 02:43am PT
|
Another guide I don't have, the Meyers/Reid '87... thanks ablegable for the info... wonder why two FA's are listed
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2003 - 10:50pm PT
|
Apparently these are mostly routes listed in the FA section
of the 1994 guide, but not in its index?
I look forward to seeing your index when it is ready.
Key to references:
Roper = Roper, "Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley", 1971
M = Meyers, "Yosemite Climbs", 1982
MR = Meyers and Reid, "Yosemite Climbs", 1987
R = Reid, "Yosemite Climbs - Free Climbs", 1994
Cxxx = Climbing magazine #xxx, 1988-91
CWL = Chapel Wall Left (in closed area left of Colors - Reid p.375);
six of these routes are on a topo on p.34 of Climbing #129,
although the topo appears to have some route names mislabelled
page number is indicated as: M.25 = Meyers, 1982 p.25
5.8 Chimney Goldrush Area 1970 Matt Donohoe
M.25, MR.77; R.72 has it removed, replaced by "William's Climb"
ABC Route Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1985 Ron Kauk Jerry Moffat
MR.211,207
Arches Direct The Royal Arches 1960 Royal Robbins Joe Fitschen
Roper.149,151plate9, see also Ament, "Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age", p.35,
and Kor, "Beyond the Vertical", p.152.
An original A4 horror route; Robbins took 10 hours to lead the crux pitch,
including 3 falls; one a 50-footer. Poor pro and bad anchors, too; Kor
was scared when repeating it with Pratt.
Beat the Rap Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Ron Skelton Ed Barry
bolted face just left of Ten Years After, 5.12b, 6x, TCU
Bellyshooter, The The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1987 Bob Ost Brian Young
C108.21, 5.9, 4x, 160', 100' L of Lynnea's Birthday Surprise
Betty Comes Alive Chapel Wall 1989 Dave Gardener Eric Gomper
CWL, posted: 5.10a sport climb, 80'
Betty Does Yosemite Chapel Wall 1990 Tucker Tech
CWL
Big Fig, The The Cookie Cliff 1979 Charlie Row Bob Ramee
R.46 (shown reaching top of Wheat Thin), maybe freed by Dave Schultz?,
multipitch crack line on the face right of Cookie Right Side
Bit of OK, A Wawona Tunnel 1993 Kevin Fosburg
R.323
Bitch's Galore Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1991 Eric Kohl
Black Angus Tenaya Canyon
R.201, 5.11 on Apathy Buttress
Blank Out El Capitan: Southeast Base 1984 Eric Zschiesche Peter Croft
posted: left of Zodiac 5.12- ow / 5.11 lieback, stays dry
Blue Ribbon Elephant Rock 1982 Don Reid Michael Brocado
Bush League U.S.G.S Wall 1992 Ed Barry
see Coup d'Etat
Capital Punishment Oreo Cliff 1972 Chuck Pratt Bruce Price Jerry Anderson
R.43, line on photo, 5.8
Cascade Crack Cascade Falls 1970
R.59
Center Direct Reed's Pinnacle Area 1987 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall Ron Kauk Ed Barry
possibly the 5.11a crack above Rocket in My Pocket (leading to Ind.Pin.Center)?
Center Route Yosemite Falls 1988 Jonny Woodward
apparently the face between Guiding Light and Lightweight Guides (toproped)
Circular Staircase Sentinel Rock 1940 Dave Brower Morgan Harris
Roper.222
Cisco Yosemite Falls 1991 Eric Kohl
third face between Dangerbird and Dark Star?
Cold, Rain and Snow Half Dome 1989 Greg Murphy Elliott Robinson
C115.119, also posted, Sunshine Buttress, 5.10d, 8 pitches, mixed snow and rock
Colonel Yosemite Falls Area: Upper
possibly the big RFC between Smoky Pillar and Dumbo Go Home?
Cookie Continuation The Cookie Cliff
R.46 6x shown above (AA)(BB), some A0
Cookie, The The Cookie Cliff 1958 Chuck Pratt Dick Sykes
Roper.49 - Starts on Right Side, tunnels through, finishes on Left Side, 5.8
Coup d'etat U.S.G.S Wall 1988 Ken Ariza
C129.29, 80' black wall, south face, 1/2 mile W of Arch Rock entrance station,
park 300' further W. Coup d'Etat 5.11d ***, 7x, rightmost route on wall
Crack Baby Chapel Wall 1990 Kevin Fosburg Eric Gomper
CWL
Crash Landing 1985 Dave Schultz
Creamatorium El Capitan 1976 Mark Blanchard Simon King Conrad Van Bruggen
R.116
Cross-Train Crack Arch Rock - Across the River 1988 Ken Ariza Cade Loyd
posted: 5.10b fist crack, soloed by Ariza on the first ascent
Crying for Mama Royal Arches Area 1986 Charles Cole John Middendorf
R.181, MR.229
Dagger Yosemite Falls 1985 Walt Shipley Russ Walling
MR.197, Dagger is a direct version of the first pitch of Moonbow on M.105;
Moonbow is renamed to Fawlty Towers in MR, and its first pitch is the crack
just left of the corner.
Danger Bird Yosemite Falls 1989 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
second bolted face right of An Historic Adventure? 5.11a, 5x, gear to #2 Friend?
Dark Cloud Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Dark Star Yosemite Falls 1986 Andy Burnham Michael Forkash
MR.197
Dead Squirrel Glacier Point Apron: East 1985 Ray Sebastian Tim Felton
C110.17, 30' R of Transistor Sister, 40' finger crack, 5.9
1988, (R.232 "5.9 & 5.10a Variations")
Deadline Dihedral Wawona Tunnel 1970 Rick Sylvester Jerry Coe
Dictionary, The Higher Cathedral Rock 1970 Ken Jern J. McMillan J. Catland
R.272, MR.325,324, listed as 5.8; looks like an adventure
Dinner Ledge Direct Washington Column 1967 Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
Roper.155
Direct Direct Route Washington Column 1971 Bill Bostick Jack Delk Bill Sorenson
Direct Route Washington Column 1940 John Dyer Robin Hansen DeWitt Allen
MR.233 (line on photo), Roper.153
Diversions Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1982 Marshall Ravencroft Tim Kemple
MR.205
Dock of the Bay El Capitan: Southeast Base 1981 Bill Price Larry Zulim
M.40
Dromedary - The Hump The Owl Area 1971 Barry Bates Bev Johnson
Dumbo Go Home Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1985 John Middendorf Tucker Tech
MR.205
Eagle Roof
MR.223, FA info MR.407, a 1+ pitch extension to Super Slab
East of Eden Serenity Crack Area 1985 Bob Gaines Jay Smith
MR.223
East of Paradise Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1983 Knez Franabcek Freser Marjan
apparently just left of Yosemite Point Buttress
Easy's Playhouse Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Eric Kohl
Easy-Duz-It Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Eric Kohl
Easy Street The Rostrum Area 1972 Jim Bridwell
Edge of Darkness Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Tucker Tech
face between Dangerbird and Dark Star?
Edge of Feckness Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Tucker Tech
second face between Dangerbird and Dark Star?
Eight Ball Slippin' Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1990 Eric Kohl
Eura Mura El Capitan: East Buttress 1983 Knez Franabcek Lidija Painkiher Igor Skamprle
MR.138 (line on photo)
Exciter Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Kevin Fosburg Walt Shipley
bolted face just right of An Historic Adventure? 5.10a, 4x, gear to #2 Friend?
Exploited Chapel Wall 1989 Pete Takeda Cade Loyd
CWL, C129.34, 5.11, 5.10 face, crack, 5.11- crack, 300' L of Colors
Fawlty Towers Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1977 Alec Sharp Arni Strapcans
MR.197 (you are missing the routes Auntie Gravity - Black Wall, left of this)
Finish Work The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1989 Tucker Tech
just right of Benzoin and Edges? (5.10d, 4x +? , MR.229)
Fireside Chat Reed's Pinnacle Area, Upper Right 1985 Walt Shipley John Middendorf
Firewater Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1990 Keith Reynolds
second face between Public Opinion and An Historic Adventure?
First Movement Variation Chapel Wall 1969 Dan Gates Tim Fitzgerald
Flake Off Cascade Fall, Lower 1975 Bruce Pollock Jim Bridwell Jim Pettigrew Mark Klemens
Flake Route Glacier Point Apron 1962 Jerry Gray
Roper.208, goes from Glacier Point Terrace to top
Fly-Girls Chapel Wall Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
CWL
Folly, The, Wild Thing The Folly 1973 Ray Jardine Ian Wade
R.133, etc. perhaps your database was confused by the other Wild Thing route?
Forbidden Pinnacle Continuation Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1989 Kevin Fosburg
Fusilade Chapel Wall 1972 John Bragg Kevin Bein
Full Steam Ahead Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1986 Rob Robinson Chris Snyder
MR.197
Good For Your Soul Staircase Falls 1988 Jason Campbell Brian Knight
R.243
Great Escape Chapel Wall 1993 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
R.248
Green Carpet Treatment Wawona Tunnel 1970 Rick Sylvester Jerry Coe
Hand Out Roadside Attraction 1982 Rick Cashner Don Reid
MR.52
Happy Trails Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1989 Tucker Tech
Headhunter Reed's Pinnacle Area 1985 John Bachar Rick Cashner
Hey Walt Mojo Tooth 1985 Walt Shipley
MR.82 (upper LFC just L of Highway Star, 5.10b, looks dirty and hard), left out of R.82
Historic Adventure, An Yosemite Falls 1989 Brian Knight Tom Borges Joel Hawk
C122.119, large RFC just right of Public Opinion, 5.9, pro to #2.5 Friend
Hobknob Oreo Cliff 1986 George Meyers Merrill Wilson
R.43, line on photo, 5.8
Hole Train Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Home-Boys Chapel Wall Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
CWL
I Saw A Sleaze Revisit Yosemite Falls 1989 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
right of Isocelese Revisited?
Iconoclast Chapel Wall 1982 Scott Cole
Isoceles Revisited Yosemite Falls 1986 Urmas Franosch Steve Plunkett Michael Forkash
MR.197
Israeli Bomber Upper Yosemite Falls Area 1986 Walt Shipley Phil Chapman
MR.206
Just Say Moe Yosemite Falls 1991 Brian Bennett Norman Boles Eric Mayo
Kundalini Express Sentinel Creek Area 1991 Kevin Fosburg Jordy Morgan
R.264 (Taft Point)
Lamb Chop Chapel Wall
CWL
Larry, Moe and the Cheese Yosemite Falls 1986 Brian Bennett John Tuttle
R.151
Last Resort Pinnacle, The, Left Side Lost Brother 1972 Rik Rieder Dale Bard
R.263
Last Resort Pinnacle, The, Center Lost Brother 1972 Barry Bates Rik Rieder
R.263
Left Crack Guru Elephant Rock
R.340
Liberace's Lost Lover The Royal Arches: Base 1989 Tucker Tech
possibly the corner just right of 10.96?
Licenced to Fly Middle Brother 1984 Jim Elias Bruce Morris
MR.183, possibly erased by rockfall
Life Worth Living El Capitan: Southeast Base 1985 Scott Cosgrove Ken Ariza
posted: FFA of first pitch of NA Wall, 5.11d
Light Weight Guides Yosemite Falls 1985 Grant Hiskes
MR.197
Lingering Lines The Royal Arches: Base 1987 Tucker Tech Cade Loyd
R.181
Lower Cathedral Spire, South By Southwest Lower Cathedral Spire 1993 Walt Shipley Keith Reynolds
R.269
Lower Watkins Pinnacle Direct Mt. Watkins 1991 Tucker Tech Walt Shipley
Mean Streaks Yosemite Falls 1989 Kevin Fosburg Cade Loyd
right of Lower Yosemite Fall, 5.12b, 16x
Mistfitz Yosemite Falls 1985 Kurt Smith Dave Griffith Chris Beigh
MR.198
Mr. Clean Chapel Wall 1989 Eric Gomper Dave Gardener
CWL
Mr. Pink-eyes Chapel Wall 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
CWL, C126.23, 5.11d, 10x
Mr. Rabbit Glacier Point Apron: East 1989 Ray Sebastian Tim Felton
C110.17, 24' R of Transistor Sister, 20' face to right-curving finger crack, 5.10a
1988, (R.232 "5.9 & 5.10a Variations")
Mud, Sweat and Beers Glacier Point Apron: East 1973 Tony Dailley Bob Madison
apparently left of Strange Energy (anything left after the rockfall?)
Nanbeeb Yosemite Falls 1986 Michael Forkash Andy Burnham
MR.197
Nine Lives Continuation Pat and Jack Pinnacle 1988 Ron Skelton Greg Magruder
compare R.54,MR.64. The route originally stopped at the end of the thin crack.
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade Chapel Wall 1991 Andrew Stevens Dan McDevitt
CWL, C122.119, C129.34, 5.12a/b, 7x, 60'
No Teats Upper Yosemite Falls 1986 Susan Lilly Tucker Tech
MR.205
Not What it Seams Yosemite Falls 1989 Mark Carpenter
face/seam? between Public Opinion and An Historic Adventure?
October Country Arch Rock: Across the River 1971 Darwin Alonso Jack Roberts
Once is Enough Staircase Falls 1980 Bill Price Larry Zulim Jim Hevner
Outta Hand Roadside Attraction 1982 Dale Bard Rick Cashner
MR.52
Pass-out Yosemite Falls 1992 Eric Kohl
Penelope's Problem Swan Slab 1972 John Long Tony Zeek
R.147, MR.193
Peril Drops Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Eric Kohl
Phyllis El Capitan: Southwest Base 1981 Mike Forkash Peter Lahrach
apparently a variation of J.M. Barrie to the right
Pink Panther Chapel Wall 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
CWL, C126.23, 5.11a or 5.11c, bolted face/arete
Pit Stop Upper Yosemite Falls 1986 Phil Chapman Walt Shipley
Play Misty for Me Yosemite Falls 1985 Kurt Smith Dave Hatchett Ken Ariza Dave Griffith
MR.198
Pocket Pussy Yosemite Falls 1991 Eric Kohl
fourth face between Dangerbird and Dark Star?
Police State Indian Canyon Urmas Franosch Dennis Oakeshott
R.165, etc. Your FA info looks wrong.
Poodle With A Mohawk The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1987 Rick Molinar Bob Ost Karl Sonnberger
C108.21, *Poodle* not Puddle, 5.9, 4x, 140', 40' L of The Bellyshooter
Pork Chop Chapel Wall
CWL
Porker Party Cascade Falls Area 1984 Dave Schultz John Middendorff Joe Hedge
MR.65, It is possibly mislabeled as the first pitch of Showtime, R.53
Powerslave Yosemite Falls 1985 Kurt Smith Dave Hatchett Ken Ariza
MR.198
Psychopath Upper Yosemite Falls 1972 Charlie Porter
MR.190, line on photo, 5.9
Public Opinion Yosemite Falls 1986 Grant Hiskes Ken Yager
MR.197
Puke Ledge Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1970 Ron Cagle Jerry Anderson
Raging Bull Chapel Wall 1989 Eric Gomper Dave Gardener
CWL
Razor Train Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
possibly just right of Brush Off?
Re-sole Fusion Swan Slab 1989 Dave Tucker
C106.15, 5.11d, 1987, face L of Ugly Duckling to A5 Traverse's hanging belay
Revenge of the Nerds Arch Rock: Across the River 1988 Dave Yerian Jack Roberts
Roachweed Middle Brother: Base 1983 Bruce Morris Jim Elias
MR.183, possibly erased by rockfall
Roadside Destruction Roadside Attraction Area 1989 Tucker Tech Ray Olson
Rock-Shock Chapel Wall 1991 Andrew Stevens Dan McDevitt
CWL, C129.34, 5.11+, 8x
Roller Coaster Glacier Point Apron 1986 Ken Ariza Mike Hatchett Mark Carpenter
R.233, slightly clearer on MR.289 (shares some pitches with Grack Right Side, then
links to Ochre Fields)
Rolo-Solo Arch Rock: Across the River 1988 Ken Ariza Cade Loyd
Safe to Surf Lower Yosemite Falls: East, Sunyside Bench 1985 Bob Ost Matt Hilden
MR.201, The first pitch of Fertile Attraction on R.153
Scattered Youth Chapel Wall
R.247, MR.301, 5.11d just left of Controlled Burn
Scavanger Chapel Wall 1988 Ken Ariza Pete Takeda Cade Loyd
CWL, C122.119, C129.34, Year of the Scavenger, 5.10d or 5.11,
crack, 4x, 60', 100' L of Colors
Seand Paradise Upper Yosemite Falls: East 1982 Knez Franabcek Freabser Marjan
Sex Drive Tenaya Canyon 1988 Tucker Tech Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Shift City Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Eric Kohl
Short but in the Shade Wawona Tunnel Area 1990 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson
probably this is the 5.11d toprope on R.324
Shot in the Dark, A Elephant Rock 1978 Rob Ramey Nick Badyrka
I should be receiving a topo and description in the mail for this shortly;
I'll post when I get it. So far, it sounds like it is in the RFC right
of Worst Error Right Side, and that the first pitch should not be cleaned, due
to nesting swifts.
Slander Session The Royal Arches: Terrace Area
R.181
Slut Wagon Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl
Snake El Capitan: Southeast Base 1983 Knez Franabcek Wallace
MR.138, line on photo, apparently left of the East Buttress
Spray Fest Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1991 Walt Shipley Eric Kohl
Stanford Point, North Face III 273(Roper'71) Fifi Buttress Area 1942 Dave Brower L. Bruce Meyer Morgan Harris Alan Hedden
Roper.273 - what more do you want to know? Roper says the rating is 5th class
Stranger then Friction The Royal Arches: Terrace Area 1989 Tucker Tech
first route left of Movin' Like a Stud?
Survival Sampler Reed's Pinnacle Area 1985 Alfred Randall Bryan Burdo
apparently the crack/seam and bolt just left of Bong's Away Left
Swan Song Swan Slab 1989 Ron Skelton
possibly the bolted face just right of aid crack?
Switchblade Chapel Wall 1991 Dan McDevitt
CWL
Taste Buds Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Eric Kohl Walt Shipley
Teacher's Pet Arch Rock: Across the River 1988 Dave Yerian Cade Loyd Ken Ariza Merry McGrath-Braun
Teaching Little Fingers Middle Cathedral Rock: North Face Apron 1985 Eric Gompers Dan Parks Raph Shaffer
R.296, MR.344; That'll Teach You is a one-bolt extension of T.L.F. (5.11a)
which accesses p2 of Teacher's Pet
Ten Years After Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1985 Ken Ariza Kurt Smith
MR.198
Tennessee Strings The Cookie Cliff 1986 Rob Robinson Cade Loyd
R.44
Thunderbird Lower Yosemite Falls Area 1991 Eric Kohl
apparently the bolted face between The Podium and Public Opinion, 5x
Tips are for Kids Wawona Tunnel Area 1993 Kevin Fosburg
Token of Our Extreme Elephant Rock Area 1989 Tucker Tech Ray Olson
Too Big for Her Top Elephant Rock Area 1985 Peter Chesko Bill Russell
Too Munge Fun Washington Column: Base 1987 Tucker Tech John Harpole
Trailside Bandit Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Tucker Tech
Trailside Slasher Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1989 Tucker Tech
True Grit Eagle Creek Area: Manure Pile Buttress 1974 Dave Altman Will Crljenko
Vegmite The Rostrum 1989 Elliot Robinson Greg Murphy
Vegemite, 5.10+
Consider the photo on MR.369 or R.331. Vegemite climbes the shaded RFC, left
of the Rostrum, but just right of the shaded wall where Dime Bag and Crack the Whip
are shown. It finishes in a cleft left of the corner system, which can be seen
just above the upper roof band. This info is from either Greg or Elliott,
back when the route was done.
Verde Cascade Falls Area 1975 Bruce Pollock Jim Bridwell Jim Pettigrew
Most likely, Reid thought he had repeated Verde when he published the topo on MR.67,
then found out later that Verde is further left, so he renamed what he had climbed
to be False Verde in R.59.
Waltzing Mathilda The Rostrum Area 1992 Greg Murphy Elliot Robinson
Watkins Gully p164 Roper'71 Mt. Watkins 1946 Robin Hansen Fritz Lippmann Rolf Pundt
Roper.164 as you noted. I presume you want to know the rating. It looks like it is
going to be something like 5.7 A2. But probably you will have to go and do the route
to find out for sure....
Werner's Oversight Swan Slab 1972 Mark Moore Dave Hitchcock
West Corner Half Dome 1961 Bob Kamps Dave Rearick
Roper.178
Wharf Rat The Royal Arches: Base
R.181 (are you looking just for the FA info now?)
Whipping Post Upper Yosemite Falls: East
White Rain Upper Yosemite Falls: West 1990 Eric Kohl
Wild at Heart Glacier Point Apron 1990 Mark Spencer
R.232
Wrinkle Chapel Wall 1972 John Bragg Rab Carrington
Zap the Gipper Glacier Point Apron 1985 Scott Cosgrove
Perhaps this is the alternative 2-bolt right start to Jack the Zipper, R.232
MR.288 only shows the left start
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2016 - 08:56pm PT
|
bump
|
|
| Messages 1 - 48 of total 48 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!