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mec
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2006 - 10:39am PT
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Anyone been up on this recently? thinking of doing this next month and curious what type of shape is it in? mostly fixed, solid anchors, etc.
thanks.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Aug 21, 2006 - 01:26pm PT
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Has the real nose even seen a second ascent? I don't think Grossman and Cole ever disclosed the topo. Better ask Ammon...
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mec
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2006 - 02:51pm PT
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The topo is in Don Reid's Big Wall guide...
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Burt
climber
Sin City
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Aug 21, 2006 - 04:04pm PT
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with a rep like those two, humm... maybe it's hard? Dude in all fairness, if you are worried about anchors and sh#t like that the real nose might not be up your alley? (this is in no way in the same ball park as the nose) I don't know you but with Cole and Grossman on the FA, think Space, Queen of Spades, Jolly Roger, Central Scrutinizer,just to name a few. But if that is your game then by all means send! The topo looks like a lot of gimmie climbing, but I suspect other wise!!
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mec
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
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the topo looks very mixed, from some really hard climbing to some really easy climbing. only 3 pitches shown of A4, plus some at A3+. Looks like a good long one, with some tough stuff intersperced with some moderate. I am mainly curious if the A4 still exists, or if it is fixed down to A3. But based on what I have read. Not too many people have done it. Actually I have not seen any other report other than the first ascent... I'm looking for a long tough route, but I not quite ready for 10-15 pitches of hard aid right in a row, so based on the topo, this one fit. Just curious if it is still up to snuff.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Aug 21, 2006 - 05:22pm PT
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I remember doing the Nose way back when and being in the upper dihedral. At one point you could look out to the right and see this really long and clean KB or rurp crack, and a bolt with a Leeper hanger on it. Didn't see any fixed stuff, but that was over ten years ago.
Anyone heard of a second ascent?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 21, 2006 - 05:23pm PT
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Coiler?
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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Aug 21, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
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Gerberding and some other folks did the second and provided the topo in the guide.
I think Clay Wadman's most recent right side of El Cap rode map has additional info.
Steve G. and Charles free climbed several sections that are not indicated in the guide. Watch out for the 5.11 face. There's some very demanding climbing on this route. Enjoy!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:17am PT
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Always been curious about this route due to the stunning location. There must be a big devil in the details.
Keep up the knowledge and beta if anybody has any. Lots of hard routes have had many ascents. Why has this most central of lines been neglected?
Peace
Karl
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:31am PT
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'cuz it's probably really bad-ass....
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:33am PT
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Can you imagine? The horror.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:37am PT
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The real reason is the nose is right next to it. The NOSE is the route that really pulls the "eye". The "real nose" doesn't really pull as well, except maybe for the die hard obscure aid climber more or less.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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Hey Werner, what about Tribal Rite? That's a proud line (I think you gave us the beta for it way back when, when it was still "topo-less").
Then again, then there's Mediterranio, pretty obscure.
Who knows what goes on in the minds of people intimately fixated on minute aspects of big pieces of stone?
Looking for the ultimate position, I guess...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:45am PT
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Real Nose = WoS II
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:48am PT
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Tribal rite?
Just another nailup, you know the speil John.
As Bridwell said many moons ago. "We must nail every crack on El Cap."
-:)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:48am PT
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Please Mr. Fish, what do you mean?
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:49am PT
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Hahahaha
Russ you're going to twist Steve ..........
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:00am PT
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The Real Nose or as I prefer to call it, The Competitive Edge is a great route. Position is entirely what this route's about. I first saw the line on the back of an old Ascent that featured a beautiful thin dihedral passing by the Great Roof just around the corner to the right. As it usually works out, by the time I got to the section in the pic, it was bottoming arrow tips and copperheads and rather nasty. But the route itself climbs on some very good rock and is out there.
When Charlie Porter and Bev Johnson climbed the Grape Race, rumor has it that they were squabbling badly and chose to bail rather than continue on new ground up our route.
Another oddity about this line is that Charles and I discovered a 17-dowel ladder already in place low down on the route at the first blank section. According to Werner, Walter Rosenthal had started up this route quite awhile earlier before being talked out of the project by locals concerned about excessive bolting.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:03am PT
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hahaha... thought that might get someone going...never figured it would raise the dead in HRH Grossman! Holy crap man... where you been? You missed all the shootin' and wrasslin' (but I bet you got an ear-full!)
You still tall? And bold? And all quiet like? Still running those Chouinard pants? Smart money says, "yes!" Good to see ya on here.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:09am PT
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Nostalgia brings us all back.
As for the Crap and how to sling it, stay tuned.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!