Real Nose

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mec

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2006 - 10:39am PT
Anyone been up on this recently? thinking of doing this next month and curious what type of shape is it in? mostly fixed, solid anchors, etc.
thanks.
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Aug 21, 2006 - 01:26pm PT
Has the real nose even seen a second ascent? I don't think Grossman and Cole ever disclosed the topo. Better ask Ammon...

mec

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2006 - 02:51pm PT
The topo is in Don Reid's Big Wall guide...
Burt

climber
Sin City
Aug 21, 2006 - 04:04pm PT
with a rep like those two, humm... maybe it's hard? Dude in all fairness, if you are worried about anchors and sh#t like that the real nose might not be up your alley? (this is in no way in the same ball park as the nose) I don't know you but with Cole and Grossman on the FA, think Space, Queen of Spades, Jolly Roger, Central Scrutinizer,just to name a few. But if that is your game then by all means send! The topo looks like a lot of gimmie climbing, but I suspect other wise!!
mec

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
the topo looks very mixed, from some really hard climbing to some really easy climbing. only 3 pitches shown of A4, plus some at A3+. Looks like a good long one, with some tough stuff intersperced with some moderate. I am mainly curious if the A4 still exists, or if it is fixed down to A3. But based on what I have read. Not too many people have done it. Actually I have not seen any other report other than the first ascent... I'm looking for a long tough route, but I not quite ready for 10-15 pitches of hard aid right in a row, so based on the topo, this one fit. Just curious if it is still up to snuff.
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Aug 21, 2006 - 05:22pm PT
I remember doing the Nose way back when and being in the upper dihedral. At one point you could look out to the right and see this really long and clean KB or rurp crack, and a bolt with a Leeper hanger on it. Didn't see any fixed stuff, but that was over ten years ago.

Anyone heard of a second ascent?
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Aug 21, 2006 - 05:23pm PT
Coiler?
Mimi

Trad climber
Seattle
Aug 21, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
Gerberding and some other folks did the second and provided the topo in the guide.

I think Clay Wadman's most recent right side of El Cap rode map has additional info.

Steve G. and Charles free climbed several sections that are not indicated in the guide. Watch out for the 5.11 face. There's some very demanding climbing on this route. Enjoy!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:17am PT
Always been curious about this route due to the stunning location. There must be a big devil in the details.

Keep up the knowledge and beta if anybody has any. Lots of hard routes have had many ascents. Why has this most central of lines been neglected?

Peace

Karl
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:31am PT
'cuz it's probably really bad-ass....
Mimi

Trad climber
Seattle
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:33am PT
Can you imagine? The horror.
WBraun

climber
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:37am PT
The real reason is the nose is right next to it. The NOSE is the route that really pulls the "eye". The "real nose" doesn't really pull as well, except maybe for the die hard obscure aid climber more or less.
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:44am PT
Hey Werner, what about Tribal Rite? That's a proud line (I think you gave us the beta for it way back when, when it was still "topo-less").

Then again, then there's Mediterranio, pretty obscure.

Who knows what goes on in the minds of people intimately fixated on minute aspects of big pieces of stone?

Looking for the ultimate position, I guess...
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:45am PT
Real Nose = WoS II
WBraun

climber
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:48am PT
Tribal rite?

Just another nailup, you know the speil John.

As Bridwell said many moons ago. "We must nail every crack on El Cap."

-:)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:48am PT
Please Mr. Fish, what do you mean?
WBraun

climber
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:49am PT
Hahahaha

Russ you're going to twist Steve ..........
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:00am PT
The Real Nose or as I prefer to call it, The Competitive Edge is a great route. Position is entirely what this route's about. I first saw the line on the back of an old Ascent that featured a beautiful thin dihedral passing by the Great Roof just around the corner to the right. As it usually works out, by the time I got to the section in the pic, it was bottoming arrow tips and copperheads and rather nasty. But the route itself climbs on some very good rock and is out there.

When Charlie Porter and Bev Johnson climbed the Grape Race, rumor has it that they were squabbling badly and chose to bail rather than continue on new ground up our route.

Another oddity about this line is that Charles and I discovered a 17-dowel ladder already in place low down on the route at the first blank section. According to Werner, Walter Rosenthal had started up this route quite awhile earlier before being talked out of the project by locals concerned about excessive bolting.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:03am PT
hahaha... thought that might get someone going...never figured it would raise the dead in HRH Grossman! Holy crap man... where you been? You missed all the shootin' and wrasslin' (but I bet you got an ear-full!)

You still tall? And bold? And all quiet like? Still running those Chouinard pants? Smart money says, "yes!" Good to see ya on here.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:09am PT
Nostalgia brings us all back.

As for the Crap and how to sling it, stay tuned.
WBraun

climber
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:33am PT
Ha, good to see you too Steve.

I never forget you running up the falls trail to the top of the Captain to rappel the Nose to scarf the booty gear, all in less than a few hours.

seamus mcshane

climber
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:48pm PT
Kevin Andrews and Kenny Bokelund may have the second ascent of Mediterraneo. 2000? These guys are as reticent as they come...
Mimi

Trad climber
Seattle
Aug 23, 2006 - 02:06pm PT
Really funny Russ. Those pants have been retired. Whew!
elcapfool

Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
Aug 24, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
The Ripple is one of the coolest looking features on El Cap.
Now that is positioning!

Grape Race to Real Nose is the aid line that draws my eye.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 27, 2006 - 11:32am PT
"The "real nose" doesn't really pull as well, except maybe for the die hard obscure aid climber more or less."

That would definitely be me - a die hard obscure aid climber more or less - but definitely more "less" than "more"! I have always been interested in repeating The Real Nose = The Competitive Edge. I'm all outfitted and sponsored by the ASCA [Tom and I recently replaced a bunch of rusty old quarter-inch anchor bolts on Cosmos] so I would be prepared to do the same for Steve's route. Incidentally Steve, Jolly Roger remains my all-time favourite El Cap route.

"Watch out for the 5.11 face." Uh-oh. This would refer to the "less" bit mentioned above. I think I might need a Rope Gun. Or can you hook through this bit?

Is Grape Race to Real Nose considered legit? What would you call such a route? I always thought that Iron Son [Iron Hawk to Native Son] was cheating, because you skip the cruxes of both walls. In fact, if I had known it existed when I soloed Iron Hawk as my first solo, I definitely would have used it! [I later soloed Native Son]
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Dec 5, 2012 - 03:10am PT
bump for a cool thread. interesting to note that grossman was first enticed onto this line by the same ascent photo that had enticed me 30 or 40 years ago. ss
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
Funny how much power this Jim Stuart photo from the back cover of Ascent 1973 has.



To climb what is shown was some very spicy, shallow aid climbing. Not quite the Crack of Dreams but I still remember being happy to be by that pitch!

Wild to be out on the bridge of the Captain's Nose. HARRRRRRRRRRRR!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
Cool route Steve! Thanks for the pic!!

I always thought that Iron Son [Iron Hawk to Native Son] was cheating, because you skip the cruxes of both walls. In fact, if I had known it existed when I soloed Iron Hawk as my first solo, I definitely would have used it! [I later soloed Native Son]

Pete- If you did Native Hawk it would be bad ass because you would do both cruxes!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
sweet photo!

classic thread
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
Wow - drooling at the look of that corner. Too bad we'll have to reclimb the bottom pitches. I'd be really crying if someone had pulled ropes on that next A4 pitch - it looks to be the Real Deal.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 7, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
Trouble is you aren't the Real Deal Spacepig so Dream On!

No respectable party needs a piss-stained hack like you along for the ride.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
Ouch!!! LMFAO!!!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
Wow. Well, at least I still climb walls. 48 El Cap routes at current count.

Not fast, mind you, but I still manage to wobble to the top most of the time...

And you shut up, Bill. If it wasn't for you spotting my brand new and expensive glasses lying on the bottom of the Merced River and telling me where to dive - after I did a gainer off the bridge while forgetting I was still wearing them - I'd be blind right now!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
Grossman...your such an ass.

1973 huh? Go take your Geritol/Viagra/stool softener and STFU.


;-)


JA

klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
piss-stained hack

Lol! too funny

Steve no like you, eh? Is it because you're dating Jeremys MOM?
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
MIMI AIN'T MY MOM ERIC!

I'm coming out ot Oakland to beat your ass (and drink beers)!

HAHA!

JA
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Man you guys are killing me right now! My face is sore from grinning so hard. Funny stuff!

Pete- That was unbelievable that I spotted your glasses down in the water that day! How was that even possible to spot wire frame glasses sitting on the bottom of the Merced? A good recovery it was!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
LEVY!!!!!!!! I made it out to SD but was so strapped for time!

I should be back after the holidays and we should try to get together...with Eric's MOM!

WOO HOO!!!

I'll bring my WIDE GEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!


JA
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
My mom would never hang with you dick in the dirt lowlifes!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
This old thing Eric?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
Wow, speaking of guys who don't climb walls anymore, look who crawled out from under a rock. The quintessential crab-napper himself. [At least I got my crab back]

How *did* you do that, Bill? [I bet girls ask you that all the time....]

















.... and boys too. hyuck hyuck hyuck.

Hey, it's Friday night, why don't you guys grab a drink and come join me on the Friday night post?

klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:34am PT
I can out climb a sad piss-stained hack any day of the weak, so STFU NOOB!

or I'll have Jeremys MOM give you a spanking!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#277504
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:40am PT
damn. that bitch is fine.
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