Real Nose

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 44 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
WBraun

climber
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:33am PT
Ha, good to see you too Steve.

I never forget you running up the falls trail to the top of the Captain to rappel the Nose to scarf the booty gear, all in less than a few hours.

seamus mcshane

climber
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:48pm PT
Kevin Andrews and Kenny Bokelund may have the second ascent of Mediterraneo. 2000? These guys are as reticent as they come...
Mimi

Trad climber
Seattle
Aug 23, 2006 - 02:06pm PT
Really funny Russ. Those pants have been retired. Whew!
Rokjox

Trad climber
Degnan's Deli
Aug 23, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
STEVE! Another Hello! from the past. I sure miss the Tucson parties!

Great to hear youre still pulling around.

elcapfool

Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
Aug 24, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
The Ripple is one of the coolest looking features on El Cap.
Now that is positioning!

Grape Race to Real Nose is the aid line that draws my eye.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 27, 2006 - 11:32am PT
"The "real nose" doesn't really pull as well, except maybe for the die hard obscure aid climber more or less."

That would definitely be me - a die hard obscure aid climber more or less - but definitely more "less" than "more"! I have always been interested in repeating The Real Nose = The Competitive Edge. I'm all outfitted and sponsored by the ASCA [Tom and I recently replaced a bunch of rusty old quarter-inch anchor bolts on Cosmos] so I would be prepared to do the same for Steve's route. Incidentally Steve, Jolly Roger remains my all-time favourite El Cap route.

"Watch out for the 5.11 face." Uh-oh. This would refer to the "less" bit mentioned above. I think I might need a Rope Gun. Or can you hook through this bit?

Is Grape Race to Real Nose considered legit? What would you call such a route? I always thought that Iron Son [Iron Hawk to Native Son] was cheating, because you skip the cruxes of both walls. In fact, if I had known it existed when I soloed Iron Hawk as my first solo, I definitely would have used it! [I later soloed Native Son]
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Dec 5, 2012 - 03:10am PT
bump for a cool thread. interesting to note that grossman was first enticed onto this line by the same ascent photo that had enticed me 30 or 40 years ago. ss
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
Funny how much power this Jim Stuart photo from the back cover of Ascent 1973 has.



To climb what is shown was some very spicy, shallow aid climbing. Not quite the Crack of Dreams but I still remember being happy to be by that pitch!

Wild to be out on the bridge of the Captain's Nose. HARRRRRRRRRRRR!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
Cool route Steve! Thanks for the pic!!

I always thought that Iron Son [Iron Hawk to Native Son] was cheating, because you skip the cruxes of both walls. In fact, if I had known it existed when I soloed Iron Hawk as my first solo, I definitely would have used it! [I later soloed Native Son]

Pete- If you did Native Hawk it would be bad ass because you would do both cruxes!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
sweet photo!

classic thread
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
Wow - drooling at the look of that corner. Too bad we'll have to reclimb the bottom pitches. I'd be really crying if someone had pulled ropes on that next A4 pitch - it looks to be the Real Deal.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 7, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
Trouble is you aren't the Real Deal Spacepig so Dream On!

No respectable party needs a piss-stained hack like you along for the ride.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
Ouch!!! LMFAO!!!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
Wow. Well, at least I still climb walls. 48 El Cap routes at current count.

Not fast, mind you, but I still manage to wobble to the top most of the time...

And you shut up, Bill. If it wasn't for you spotting my brand new and expensive glasses lying on the bottom of the Merced River and telling me where to dive - after I did a gainer off the bridge while forgetting I was still wearing them - I'd be blind right now!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
Grossman...your such an ass.

1973 huh? Go take your Geritol/Viagra/stool softener and STFU.


;-)


JA

klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
piss-stained hack

Lol! too funny

Steve no like you, eh? Is it because you're dating Jeremys MOM?
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
MIMI AIN'T MY MOM ERIC!

I'm coming out ot Oakland to beat your ass (and drink beers)!

HAHA!

JA
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Man you guys are killing me right now! My face is sore from grinning so hard. Funny stuff!

Pete- That was unbelievable that I spotted your glasses down in the water that day! How was that even possible to spot wire frame glasses sitting on the bottom of the Merced? A good recovery it was!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
LEVY!!!!!!!! I made it out to SD but was so strapped for time!

I should be back after the holidays and we should try to get together...with Eric's MOM!

WOO HOO!!!

I'll bring my WIDE GEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!


JA
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
My mom would never hang with you dick in the dirt lowlifes!
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