Granitica Festival 2014 Cochise Stronghold History 3/15-16

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2014 - 10:35am PT


In collaboration with the Summit Hut, I am pleased to announce the second Granitica Festival to be held in Tucson at the Oro Valley location of the Summit Hut Saturday and Sunday evenings March 15 & 16 6-10pm.

The theme is: Heart of Stone- Cochise Stronghold Climbing in the 1960s, 70s and 80s.

Come and hear firsthand the stories behind the routes in the sanctum sanctorum of Tucson climbing.

Tickets are available for $25 to cover the cost of bringing speakers to the event. Seating is limited and only 120 seats are available so get yours while you can by calling or stopping by either location of the Summit Hut.

Heart of Stone Program and Speaker List

Saturday Program

Baboquivari Donís Crack Joanna Coleman and Dan Jones, 1967 SA Dave Baker and Merlin Wheeler, 1970. FFA Dave Baker and Mike McEwen, 1971.

Saddle Pinnacles John Rupley and Fred Beckey 1960s(?)

The Tombstone- Dark Shadows, Peter dePagter and Larry Seligman, 1971(?)

Cochise Dome- Whatís My Line, Dave Baker, Peter dePagter and Larry Seligman, 1973 Direct Start Mike McEwen and Dave Baker 1975

End Pinnacle- Capín Pissgums, Dave Baker and Mark Axen, 1972. FFA Steve Grossman and Fig Fiola, 1975.

Stronghold Dome- Beeline, Merlin Wheeler and Mark Axen, 1971 Buck Traverse Steve Grossman and Tony Herr, 1983

End Pinnacle- Days of Future Passed, Dave Baker, Steve Grossman and Richard Thompson, 1974 FFA Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman and Jim Haisley, 1977

Bastion Towers- Forest Lawn, Mike McEwen, Gary Axen, 1975 Complete route Mike McEwen and Dave Baker, 1976 Pair a Grins finish Eric Fazio-Rhicard and Michael Jimmerson, 1985

Chay Desa Tsay- As the Wind Cries, Steve Grossman, John Steiger and Paul Davidson, 1979

Rockfellow Dome- Devoid, Steve Grossman and Fig Fiola, 1981(?)

End Pinnacle- Be All End All, Dave Baker and Fig Fiola 1982 FFA Pitch 1 Ray Ringle, Herb North and Tony Herr, 1983

Sunday Program

Rockfellow Dome- Knead Me, Dave Baker and Mike McEwen 1972

Rockfellow Dome- Labyrinth, Merlin Wheeler, Joanna Coleman, Dave Baker and Don Morris, 1972

Rockfellow Dome- Abracadaver, Mike McEwen, Dave Baker and Steve Grossman,1975 FFA Stan Mish, Jeff Bowman and Jon Williams

End Pinnacle- The Uncarved Block, Chip Chace and Ray Ringle, 1980

Rockfellow Dome- Coming to Grips (aka The Sound of One Hand Thrashing), Chip Chace and Ray Ringle, 1980

Rockfellow Dome- Sensory Desuetude, Chip Chace and Ray Ringle, 1980

Cochise Dome- Letís Make a Deal, Steve Grossman and Paul Davidson, 1984

End Pinnacle- Poetry in Motion, Steve Grossman and Brad Smith, 1982(?)

Rockfellow Dome- Lumpy Unmentionables, Jim Waugh and Ray Ringle, 1984

End Pinnacle- Great Gig in the Sky, Steve Grossman and Jay Ladin,1986

Cochise Dome- Double Jeopardy, Steve Grossman and Steve Amter, 1985(?)

Stronghold Dome- Apache Tears, Peter Noebels and Steve Grossman, 1986

Whale Dome- Moby Dick, Bob Kerry and Josh Tofield, 1988

Westworld Dome- Warpaint, Eric Fazio-Rhicard and Bob Kerry, 1989

Rockfellow Group- Tour de Jour, Dave Baker and Fig Fiola 1981

Prospective Speaker List

Joanna Coleman
Merlin Wheeler
Dave Baker
Mike McEwen
Mark Axen
Gary Axen
Peter dePagter
Larry Seligman
Steve Grossman
Eric Fazio-Rhicard
John Steiger
Paul Davidson
Ray Ringle
Chip Chace
Stan Mish
Jeff Bowman
Jon Williams
Jay Ladin
Bob Kerry
Josh Tofield
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jan 21, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
TFPU

Would love to make this event... so intrigued by the climbing tales of this place. Alas, not going to happen.

Any chance of a live "stream"

That would be cool. Ha!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 21, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
Can't make it, but obviously a super worthy location to hear great tales about!!

Go Stronghold Geezers!!!
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jan 21, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
Credit: crunch
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 21, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
Abracadaver 5.9+.....ha, ha, ha....cough....ha, ha, ha.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 21, 2014 - 02:02pm PT
Days Of Future Past, 5.8, cough, ha ha ha, *gag*......



Just another overprotected Cochise classic here.But luckily way easier than Days Of Future Gassed.
Credit: survival





Credit: survival







donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 21, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
Yup....the Az. ratings from the 70's and 80's are historic sandbags, still are at Granite Mountain.

edit: What are you complaining about, the rope is over a horn.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 21, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
A short walk with Donini.
Credit: survival
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
Jim- That's just Pat.

That route was rated 5.11 the day it went up complete with the bowling ball case-sized death block at the end of the 3rd pitch layback where it gets reeeeeely thin. Once that block left the picture leaving a nice jug to stand up on it took a couple of letter grades off the rating.

Two of the longest falls that I ever caught started at that block and ended below the hanging belay!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Jan 21, 2014 - 02:10pm PT
Cap'm Pissgums-- 5.10+. Always a scary grade in AZ!

This would be a great event. The place is sorta steeped in mystery.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
When I was making my way through the grades 5.10+ was as hard as ANYTHING around Tucson and off by an entire number grade. It took a while to correct that after I came back from doing lots of 5.11 routes elsewhere by way of comparison. We came by it honestly since our northern brothers like Lovejoy, Baxter and Karlstrom set the mark. For example, Crack Lovers variation to the Classic at Granite Mountain is rated 5.7 (with a 5.9 move to get started). LOL
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 21, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
Look forward to this fo sho!!!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Jan 21, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
The first time I went to JT, also my first trip out of northern AZ, I was climbing about a full number grade harder!

Can't wait to see who the speakers are and what routes they will discuss.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 21, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
Never been there, but if Steve is putting this on it hasta be good. I'm thinking of going. It would be a good chance to meet some locals that post here.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 21, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
On the edge- my experience exactly.

Wayno, do it.
Leggs

Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
Jan 21, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
I am pleased to announce the second Granitica Festival to be held in Tucson at the Oro Valley location of the Summit Hut Saturday and Sunday evenings March 15 & 16 6-10pm.

Haven't been to the new location in OV yet... the drive will be awesome, as it takes you closer to the Catalina's. (Yo, Jefe... get me a ticket!?!?)



This would be a great event. The place is sorta steeped in mystery.

On the Edge ... It is steeped in mystery and wonder, so much so, as a History major in college, a classmate and I took a special trip there and produced an engaging presentation on the history and mysteries of The Stronghold ... We got an "A".


:)

Sheepshead
Sheepshead
Credit: Leggs

Sheepshead Summit
Sheepshead Summit
Credit: drljefe

Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Jan 21, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
Tix purchased.
the albatross

Gym climber
Flagstaff
Jan 21, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
Bump for the legends of AZ climbing!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
Come on down and have a listen and some laughs and meet these people.

Karlstrom, Baker, Wheeler, Coleman, McEwen, Axen, Steiger, Chase, Ringle, Davidson, Noebels to name a few with many more to come.
Leggs

Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
Jan 21, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
Bump for the legends of AZ climbing!

A true climbing legend, Rose Bud...

Rosie on the summit of Sheepshead!
Rosie on the summit of Sheepshead!
Credit: Leggs
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