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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 2, 2003 - 07:18pm PT
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Anyone have any special recommendations for a rack for The Yawn on Medlicott Dome, Tuolumne? Doubles or more on some sizes, and how big?
Mr. Wyde? Anyone?
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kellie
climber
Seattle
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Ah, the Yawn. That was my first offwidth. And my first offwidth lead. It was fun, sort of. I borrowed a #5 Camalot and two Yates Big Dudes from some friends. Can't remember what numbers the Big Dudes were for sure, but I think #6 and #7. I don't think I really *needed* all of them, but I *used* them.
Enjoy! The 5.7 hands pitch is harder than you'd think....
Kellie
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Hey Larry, haven't done it, but if you do it, you might bring your bolt kit to replace the single 1/4" belay bolt somewhere up around the top of pitch 1 or 2, TM Herbert asked me to replace it if I get a chance. You can apparently back up the bolt/set an anchor with 4" or so pro, but the bolt's in bad shape supposedly. Assuming you actually want to bring a bolt kit on an ow/squeeze route instead of an extra 4" piece...
Greg
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Francis
climber
San Francisco
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Wow the yawn
this was also my first off width back when I did not know what OW ment!
The largest piece I had was a #9 metolious; equivalent toaprox #3 camalot.
There are plenty of chock stones stuck in the wide sections and really you will be so jammed in there you cannot possibly slip out!
I think a #4 cam would make you happier but as far as big bros, the crack is a wide flair, you might be hard pressed to find a good placement.
also the walk off is long so leave yourself some time in the day light
cheers!
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kellie
climber
Seattle
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"I think a #4 cam would make you happier but as far as big bros, the crack is a wide flair, you might be hard pressed to find a good placement."
Just a note---I had Big Dudes, not Big Bros. Unfortunately they don't make 'em anymore. Sad, since I liked them better than the Camalot and I'd consider buying them if they were available.
Kellie
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FREEclimber
Social climber
SF
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Jul 10, 2003 - 02:25pm PT
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I have heard a #5 cam is useful but not required.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Aug 16, 2010 - 09:28pm PT
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You helpful people, help me please-
by posting up a few pics of the Yawn.
Also, one or two bits of headsup beta would be welcome.
I look forward to the sweet looking 5.7 sustained corner.
I heard it has one.
Thanks.
Actually, all input welcome.
Thanks.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 16, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
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The Yawn.
Thought the climbing was alright but nothing special. Book says pro to 4" which I brought but didn't end up using. You don't need it, the thing sucks up gear of all sizes the whole way. Single rack from .5 to 3" with doubles of 1" & 2" plus a set of nuts should work just fine. First pitch is bunk, dirty and not interesting in the least. The second pitch pulls a cool finger crack into some steep perfect hands around a bunch of chockstones then goes into a bit of tight chimneying. The fingers and hands down low was about 5.9 but the O.W up higher was quite soft for the grade. Maybe 5.6 at most. Good first route for someone wanting to learn how to climb chimneys. The 5.7 (yawn) dihedral was a bit of a sandbag but not too bad. Keep going after the dihedral up the last (easy) wide section to find a better belay station on top. Easy scrambling from there to the top of the dome.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Aug 16, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
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Thanks Sal, ha! just grabbed your beta from rc.com.
Hey, One of these Days at Woodfords is waitin for you,
let me know.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 16, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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Yeah, one of these days... ha!
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Aug 16, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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Some photos to whet your appetite...
Overall I found the climb very adventuresome and enjoyable. Hard, but doable for a 5.10- climber with the right attitude.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 16, 2010 - 10:18pm PT
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Wow, that second picture makes that corner look quite awesome. I remember it being rather low angle and not needing to use the crack much.
That pic makes it look 5.13
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Aug 16, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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Nice pics, jsb, thank you.
I'll try to work it with the right attitude!
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Aug 17, 2010 - 12:01am PT
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I've backed off of this twice. Once for weather, once 'cause we 'looked up and ran in sheer terror!"
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Aug 17, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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ah, yummy, now I can hardly wait! ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 17, 2010 - 12:15am PT
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For a route with a name like the Yawn, you should probably take a joke book or thermos of coffee or something, to fend of ennui.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2010 - 01:35am PT
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Look for Trip Report, shortly....
"The 5.7 hands pitch is harder than you'd think...." I have iton good authority that that pitch was "rated by criminals"
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Aug 17, 2010 - 02:25am PT
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I thought the yawn to be on of my favorite ow routes in tm. I brought 3 #4 friends and 2 of all other cams. Try to avoid a backpack or having your approach shoes clipped to your harness if you are leading the ow pitch. I believe I got a wire or a orange tcu to back up the one bolt at the end of the ow pitch. A great rt. I loved it. Just classic. Deserves more credit.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Aug 17, 2010 - 02:31am PT
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"Look for Trip Report, shortly...."
w00t!
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