Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2010 - 03:03am PT
|
Team Tomorrow, you got that bolt kit beta?
|
|
msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
|
Cant wait to hear how it went Footloose. I did it back 15 years ago and biggest piece we had was a #4 friend and hexes. Ended up fixing the #11 hex at the crux....couldn't get that beast out. The endless hand corner was my pitch (lucky me) and I found it tough and wider than I'd expected. Enjoy.
BTW, Crescent Arch is also classic so don't limit yourself to just one. Cooke Book also kills it. Do both.
|
|
msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
|
WOW Chief- no way. Blast from the past. It was my fault, I couldn't clean the damn this. And this from a guy that prides himself on never leaving a piece behind.
I swear my buddy kick-set that damn thing 'a la Yabo on Cream'.
|
|
Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
|
Climbed this incredible route twice.
Once in my early twenties, lot's of stoppers, and some hexes; scared!
Again in my late thirties, singles rack up to #4, very run out at times; thrilled!
Enjoy.
|
|
Aaron Johnson
climber
Bear Valley, CA
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
|
This route has been on my "hit list" for a long time due to perusing John Harlin's "west coast" guidebook. Thanks for the re-motivator!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
|
any word from Em and Z?
Gettin' on this Sunday crowds permitting....
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
|
Jay,
We needed you bro. I made a real hash of it. Rumors of my increasing fitness proved to be unfounded. I lead the first pitch and about athird of the second. It was fun. Ha ha, go for it and report back.
Zeebro
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 11:27am PT
|
It was a pretty nice day Tuesday.
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2010 - 05:06pm PT
|
Yeah Riley,
I definitely need to finish this soon. I already have a partner though.
Give us a TR when you do it.
Zander
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
|
Finally did this rascal. Greg led the first pitch. Here's a pic just before the layback crux.
I got the second pitch. It is relentless and physical. I'm not sure if any individual move is harder than 5.8 but there is a leaning tough 5.8 move every three feet or so for 150 feet. It isn't an OW. It is more of a squeeze. Good times for sure.
Here's a pic just after the harder part.
The third pitch is the 5.7 "rated by criminals" pitch. Yeah, that's about right. Though, I wonder if it is just that everyone is so darn tired after pitch two? I know I was.
Here's a pic of P3 as the sun finally showed.
The fourth pitch has thirty feet of real climbing left and I was happy to have it behind me. Fortunately, the gals hiked in from the Cathedral Lakes trailhead, to meet us at lovely Lake Of The Domes, with something to eat.
If you are a 5.9/10a climber this is an awesome climb. Get on it.
Good day!
Zander
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
|
That looks fricken cool. Nice pics, Z.
I've not had the pleasure, but it looks like it's on the endless list.....
Arrgh. ;-)
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
|
good show Zander and Greg!
still on my to-do list
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2011 - 02:05am PT
|
Good shots, Zander - makes the climb look great.
|
|
perswig
climber
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2011 - 07:08am PT
|
Wow. That is a pretty route, and right in my pay grade.
Nice pics, all.
For a route with a name like the Yawn, you should probably take a joke book or thermos of coffee or something, to fend of ennui.
WTF is Anders talking about? Is an ennui some sort of marmot?
Dale
|
|
Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
|
Thanks! That first pitch lieback was running with water when we were up there. Second pitch sent me scampering. I'll Be Back!
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
|
We had a set of nuts, which we used all the time.
A set of Metolius TCUs
Camelots .4 to 4 with doubles of .75, 1, 2, and 4
We could have used the second #3.
The belay at the top of P2 has good nuts and small cam placements, which is good because that is about all I had left.
Don't bring a pack if you can help it. I was glad not to have one.
No need to put any of the rotted bolts back.
Climb on!
Z
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
|
Did the route with Julie Brugger back in the mid-70's. I think the biggest piece of gear we carried was a #10 hex. I dropped the hand-sized hexes on the first pitch so had to lead the third pitch dihedral with just a bunch of stoppers. I think I got a couple of small stoppers in on that pitch and that was about it. Luckily, it's not too hard.
After the climb, at the base, looking for the dropped hexes, which I found, I also found a 1.5" Longware angle. If you can identify it, I will give it back. Great climb!
|
|
seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
|
Way to get her done Zander and Greg!
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
|
Yowsah!!!
A few of us were talking about the Yawn on Sunday. "just about my pay grade" appeals to me too. I'll double up the rack for next trip to the Meadows.
|
|
okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
|
Good job Zander! Along with the Crescent Arch, the Yawn is a grand feature that begs to be climbed. Funny how the smallest bit of wide can keep the madding crowds at bay.
I remember the third pitch feeling sustained for the grade.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!