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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 2, 2003 - 07:18pm PT
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Anyone have any special recommendations for a rack for The Yawn on Medlicott Dome, Tuolumne? Doubles or more on some sizes, and how big?
Mr. Wyde? Anyone?
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kellie
climber
Seattle
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Ah, the Yawn. That was my first offwidth. And my first offwidth lead. It was fun, sort of. I borrowed a #5 Camalot and two Yates Big Dudes from some friends. Can't remember what numbers the Big Dudes were for sure, but I think #6 and #7. I don't think I really *needed* all of them, but I *used* them.
Enjoy! The 5.7 hands pitch is harder than you'd think....
Kellie
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Hey Larry, haven't done it, but if you do it, you might bring your bolt kit to replace the single 1/4" belay bolt somewhere up around the top of pitch 1 or 2, TM Herbert asked me to replace it if I get a chance. You can apparently back up the bolt/set an anchor with 4" or so pro, but the bolt's in bad shape supposedly. Assuming you actually want to bring a bolt kit on an ow/squeeze route instead of an extra 4" piece...
Greg
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Francis
climber
San Francisco
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Wow the yawn
this was also my first off width back when I did not know what OW ment!
The largest piece I had was a #9 metolious; equivalent toaprox #3 camalot.
There are plenty of chock stones stuck in the wide sections and really you will be so jammed in there you cannot possibly slip out!
I think a #4 cam would make you happier but as far as big bros, the crack is a wide flair, you might be hard pressed to find a good placement.
also the walk off is long so leave yourself some time in the day light
cheers!
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kellie
climber
Seattle
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"I think a #4 cam would make you happier but as far as big bros, the crack is a wide flair, you might be hard pressed to find a good placement."
Just a note---I had Big Dudes, not Big Bros. Unfortunately they don't make 'em anymore. Sad, since I liked them better than the Camalot and I'd consider buying them if they were available.
Kellie
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FREEclimber
Social climber
SF
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Jul 10, 2003 - 02:25pm PT
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I have heard a #5 cam is useful but not required.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Aug 16, 2010 - 09:28pm PT
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You helpful people, help me please-
by posting up a few pics of the Yawn.
Also, one or two bits of headsup beta would be welcome.
I look forward to the sweet looking 5.7 sustained corner.
I heard it has one.
Thanks.
Actually, all input welcome.
Thanks.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 16, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
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The Yawn.
Thought the climbing was alright but nothing special. Book says pro to 4" which I brought but didn't end up using. You don't need it, the thing sucks up gear of all sizes the whole way. Single rack from .5 to 3" with doubles of 1" & 2" plus a set of nuts should work just fine. First pitch is bunk, dirty and not interesting in the least. The second pitch pulls a cool finger crack into some steep perfect hands around a bunch of chockstones then goes into a bit of tight chimneying. The fingers and hands down low was about 5.9 but the O.W up higher was quite soft for the grade. Maybe 5.6 at most. Good first route for someone wanting to learn how to climb chimneys. The 5.7 (yawn) dihedral was a bit of a sandbag but not too bad. Keep going after the dihedral up the last (easy) wide section to find a better belay station on top. Easy scrambling from there to the top of the dome.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Aug 16, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
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Thanks Sal, ha! just grabbed your beta from rc.com.
Hey, One of these Days at Woodfords is waitin for you,
let me know.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 16, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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Yeah, one of these days... ha!
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Aug 16, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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Some photos to whet your appetite...
Overall I found the climb very adventuresome and enjoyable. Hard, but doable for a 5.10- climber with the right attitude.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 16, 2010 - 10:18pm PT
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Wow, that second picture makes that corner look quite awesome. I remember it being rather low angle and not needing to use the crack much.
That pic makes it look 5.13
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Aug 16, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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Nice pics, jsb, thank you.
I'll try to work it with the right attitude!
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Aug 17, 2010 - 12:01am PT
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I've backed off of this twice. Once for weather, once 'cause we 'looked up and ran in sheer terror!"
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Aug 17, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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ah, yummy, now I can hardly wait! ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 17, 2010 - 12:15am PT
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For a route with a name like the Yawn, you should probably take a joke book or thermos of coffee or something, to fend of ennui.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2010 - 01:35am PT
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Look for Trip Report, shortly....
"The 5.7 hands pitch is harder than you'd think...." I have iton good authority that that pitch was "rated by criminals"
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Aug 17, 2010 - 02:25am PT
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I thought the yawn to be on of my favorite ow routes in tm. I brought 3 #4 friends and 2 of all other cams. Try to avoid a backpack or having your approach shoes clipped to your harness if you are leading the ow pitch. I believe I got a wire or a orange tcu to back up the one bolt at the end of the ow pitch. A great rt. I loved it. Just classic. Deserves more credit.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Aug 17, 2010 - 02:31am PT
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"Look for Trip Report, shortly...."
w00t!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2010 - 03:03am PT
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Team Tomorrow, you got that bolt kit beta?
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 17, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
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Cant wait to hear how it went Footloose. I did it back 15 years ago and biggest piece we had was a #4 friend and hexes. Ended up fixing the #11 hex at the crux....couldn't get that beast out. The endless hand corner was my pitch (lucky me) and I found it tough and wider than I'd expected. Enjoy.
BTW, Crescent Arch is also classic so don't limit yourself to just one. Cooke Book also kills it. Do both.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 17, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
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WOW Chief- no way. Blast from the past. It was my fault, I couldn't clean the damn this. And this from a guy that prides himself on never leaving a piece behind.
I swear my buddy kick-set that damn thing 'a la Yabo on Cream'.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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Aug 17, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
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Climbed this incredible route twice.
Once in my early twenties, lot's of stoppers, and some hexes; scared!
Again in my late thirties, singles rack up to #4, very run out at times; thrilled!
Enjoy.
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Aaron Johnson
climber
Bear Valley, CA
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Aug 17, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
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This route has been on my "hit list" for a long time due to perusing John Harlin's "west coast" guidebook. Thanks for the re-motivator!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
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any word from Em and Z?
Gettin' on this Sunday crowds permitting....
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 18, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Jay,
We needed you bro. I made a real hash of it. Rumors of my increasing fitness proved to be unfounded. I lead the first pitch and about athird of the second. It was fun. Ha ha, go for it and report back.
Zeebro
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 20, 2010 - 11:27am PT
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It was a pretty nice day Tuesday.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 21, 2010 - 05:06pm PT
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Yeah Riley,
I definitely need to finish this soon. I already have a partner though.
Give us a TR when you do it.
Zander
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 22, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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Finally did this rascal. Greg led the first pitch. Here's a pic just before the layback crux.
I got the second pitch. It is relentless and physical. I'm not sure if any individual move is harder than 5.8 but there is a leaning tough 5.8 move every three feet or so for 150 feet. It isn't an OW. It is more of a squeeze. Good times for sure.
Here's a pic just after the harder part.
The third pitch is the 5.7 "rated by criminals" pitch. Yeah, that's about right. Though, I wonder if it is just that everyone is so darn tired after pitch two? I know I was.
Here's a pic of P3 as the sun finally showed.
The fourth pitch has thirty feet of real climbing left and I was happy to have it behind me. Fortunately, the gals hiked in from the Cathedral Lakes trailhead, to meet us at lovely Lake Of The Domes, with something to eat.
If you are a 5.9/10a climber this is an awesome climb. Get on it.
Good day!
Zander
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Aug 22, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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That looks fricken cool. Nice pics, Z.
I've not had the pleasure, but it looks like it's on the endless list.....
Arrgh. ;-)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
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good show Zander and Greg!
still on my to-do list
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 23, 2011 - 02:05am PT
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Good shots, Zander - makes the climb look great.
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perswig
climber
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Aug 23, 2011 - 07:08am PT
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Wow. That is a pretty route, and right in my pay grade.
Nice pics, all.
For a route with a name like the Yawn, you should probably take a joke book or thermos of coffee or something, to fend of ennui.
WTF is Anders talking about? Is an ennui some sort of marmot?
Dale
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
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Thanks! That first pitch lieback was running with water when we were up there. Second pitch sent me scampering. I'll Be Back!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 23, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
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We had a set of nuts, which we used all the time.
A set of Metolius TCUs
Camelots .4 to 4 with doubles of .75, 1, 2, and 4
We could have used the second #3.
The belay at the top of P2 has good nuts and small cam placements, which is good because that is about all I had left.
Don't bring a pack if you can help it. I was glad not to have one.
No need to put any of the rotted bolts back.
Climb on!
Z
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 23, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
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Did the route with Julie Brugger back in the mid-70's. I think the biggest piece of gear we carried was a #10 hex. I dropped the hand-sized hexes on the first pitch so had to lead the third pitch dihedral with just a bunch of stoppers. I think I got a couple of small stoppers in on that pitch and that was about it. Luckily, it's not too hard.
After the climb, at the base, looking for the dropped hexes, which I found, I also found a 1.5" Longware angle. If you can identify it, I will give it back. Great climb!
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Aug 24, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
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Way to get her done Zander and Greg!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 24, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
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Yowsah!!!
A few of us were talking about the Yawn on Sunday. "just about my pay grade" appeals to me too. I'll double up the rack for next trip to the Meadows.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Aug 24, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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Good job Zander! Along with the Crescent Arch, the Yawn is a grand feature that begs to be climbed. Funny how the smallest bit of wide can keep the madding crowds at bay.
I remember the third pitch feeling sustained for the grade.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 16, 2014 - 01:30am PT
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Bump for Yawn pics!!!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 16, 2014 - 02:05am PT
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Did this route in the summer of 1971 with my high school upper class mate Mike Shreve. We were barely 5.9 climbers at the time. What a beast it was. Definitely old school rating and we thought we had it easily in the bag till we turned the corner to the view of the long sweeping 5.7 jamcrack corner. We were tired lads after topping out shortly before sundown.
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