Rain Gear for Big Wall

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johnr9q

Sport climber

Sacramento, Ca

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 19, 2012 - 08:34am PT

I want to do the Zodiac on ElCap next week and want to know what to wear to keep me dry if it rains and snows. thanks for your suggestions. I say some previous threads on this subject but they are all at least 5 years old so thot there might be something new.

WBraun

climber

Nov 19, 2012 - 08:40am PT

keep me dry if it rains and snows

This is the only thing that's sure fire bomber and has actually been used by someone on a Winter ascent.

He said it saved his ass when icy water runoff was pouring all over him as he was topping out.

johnr9q

Sport climber

Sacramento, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2012 - 08:51am PT

WBraun: That is probably perfect if it were pouring rain or if I were in a waterfall (I know those situations are possible but we will use avoidance as much as possible to protect us from those situations) I was looking for something that would be more versatile.

WBraun

climber

Nov 19, 2012 - 08:57am PT

if it were pouring rain or if I were in a waterfall

You ever been up there in a storm?

johnr9q

Sport climber

Sacramento, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2012 - 09:14am PT

No I haven't. Are you serious about that body suit? Where do I get one. I am going with a climber that has done the nose in less than 4 hours so avoidance might be more of a possibility than with a normal climber. (we can probably rap in short order)

WBraun

climber

Nov 19, 2012 - 09:19am PT

No I'm not serious.

What I'm serious about is you better understand the full nature about the beast when the sh!t hits the fan up there at this time of the year.

You better be fully prepared.

People have died not taken this seriously.

If you are even thinking of YOSAR as a backup then you have already failed .....

splitter

Trad climber

Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane

Nov 19, 2012 - 09:31am PT

Board shorts!!

Russ Walling

Social climber

from Poofters Froth, Wyoming

Nov 19, 2012 - 09:42am PT

Werner is right. At a minimum I would go with a kayak style top, one that has a neoprene neck cuff and wrist cuffs. Last time I was in a storm up there nailing away in regular rain gear the ice water was going in my sleeves and fire-hosing out my pant legs.

The only thing that will really keep you dry up there is steepness. Once you start futzing around in the rain or water or anything else, you are probably in a heap of sh#t. Stay dry at all costs.

Oh... and YER GONNA DIE!!!

to add: go up fat. During my "event" I started the wall weighing about 180 lbs. When I got down I weighed 162. I'm glad I had a lot of ass to burn and needed it all.

Jim Brennan

Trad climber

Vancouver Canada

Nov 19, 2012 - 09:46am PT


	Credit: The Gore-Tex Company

matlinb

Trad climber

Albuquerque

Nov 19, 2012 - 07:21pm PT

Boater Talk is a good site for used kayaking gear. A semi-dry top can be had for under $100 (http://boatertalk.com/gear/gear-detail.php?gid=67453)

Prod

Trad climber

Nov 19, 2012 - 07:38pm PT

Hey Johnr9q,

Here is my Favorite bedtime story. AWESOME READ.

http://www.fishproducts.com/topos/nativeTR/nativeTR.html

From Russ Wallings Fish Products site. Russ posted 2 or 3 posts above.

You most certainly may die without Fish Gear on your rack.

http://www.fishproducts.com/index1.html

Prod.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Nov 19, 2012 - 07:44pm PT

I am going with a climber that has done the nose in less than 4 hours

I would just ask your super-climber what he is going to use during your ascent.

Or get a Kagool...

Stewart Johnson

climber

lake forest

Nov 19, 2012 - 08:01pm PT

check the weather dumbass

xtrmecat

Big Wall climber

Kalispell, Montanagonia

Nov 19, 2012 - 08:05pm PT

Johnr9q, I just returned home at 1200 miles and some change, after two days of humping loads to Zodiac. Seven days invested door to door. Total trip expenses were $1250. Why leave the valley without doing the Zodiac?

I do walls solo most of the time. Most of my climbing is winter. Zodiac is well within my ability. I already have the proper gear and experience.

Answer, the forcast just was not right, and as stated above, YOSAR is not part of any plans. My forcast was only wet with more wet. A storm would likely end all wall climbing forever. Worth the risk. Not in my book.

I would really wish everone would rethink things as such this. But then the trip reports would be mediocre, and not epic after epic. See the thread about rappelling the nose. Stuff happens on it's own, starting with a probable problem built into the plan. Epic at best case.

Burly Bob

Captain...or Skully

climber

Nov 19, 2012 - 08:12pm PT

You can get hammered up there. I bailed out of a Winter storm once. It sucked a lot.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

sawatch choss

Nov 19, 2012 - 08:16pm PT

Dry top. Rubber rain pants. neoprene hood. and gloves. That's just what you should have this time of year.

splitter

Trad climber

Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane

Nov 19, 2012 - 08:18pm PT

You might take into consideration your feet also (not sure if anyone has covered that). I know of one person that I climbed with who got severe frostbite on his feet. Hampered his climbing for some time. Not sure if he fully recovered. That took place high on the NA wall. Standing and belaying his partner in an icy waterfall. Not sure what type of covering you could use in that type of situation.

edit: maybe that suit that WB posted.

He couldn't freeclimb at all for awhile. And he lived in the Valley full time and generally did it almost everydy. Worked for the guide school. Had to slowly ease back into climbing and leading relatvely easy free climbs since he had no, or little feeling in his feet. So, it can get real serious up there (like someone already said).

Cragman

Trad climber

June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road

Nov 19, 2012 - 08:27pm PT

Rock one of these North Sea suits...I'll rent ya mine....

Me and Flanders in full conditions on El Cap Tower

Missing photo ID#196820

Lambone

Big Wall climber

Ashland, Or

Nov 19, 2012 - 08:51pm PT

(we can probably rap in short order)

Jose died rapping off Zodiac in a winter storm. Froze to death less then 100ft off the deck...
:( RIP

Edit:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/elcapd.txt

19. Joseph E. Crowe, 12/28/2002. He was fixing to pitch 4 on Zodiac
when a sudden snowstorm blew in. He called for help at 7:30pm,
but when the rescuers arrived at 11pm, he had died, probably
from hypothermia. He was at the end of a rope, 25' off the
ground when the rescue party found him.