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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Nov 20, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
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only n00bs and rubes don't pack snowshoes.
n00bs and rubes. Don't be one.
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 20, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
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sailing rain gear is good but it is heavy. But if you get in a bad storm you won't care about the heavy anymore.
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mackenzie74
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 20, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
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Pick a good weather window for your trip.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Nov 20, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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Layers are the way to go. I like Rodger's comments about sweating then sitting. I think one key is something that breaths. If you are working hard then sitting you are going to freeze. A big wall is not somewhere to experiment.
Werner already gave you the gear suggestion. I would think that would be all the information you need.
I would experiment at home on something small and not necessarily go up with something you have not all ready tested yourself. My .02 my not be worth much but it's all I got.
I am going to be testing stuff all winter up here in the PNW. It rains like to beat the band and sometimes it gets cold. I already tried the kayak top. The one I had turned me in to a stewed climber. But then again I sweat like a pig. I am going to try something like this:
http://nextadventure.net/level-six-chilko-splash-jacket.html
But I am not going on some big wall to try it out. It will be in a more controlled situation. I hate the thought of getting rescued.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Nov 20, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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^^^True that!^^^ So never rely on getting rescued!
I just hope that I am not so rescue adverse that I am unwilling to get it when I need it.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Nov 20, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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Thank you for all your work and commitment to be there when the sh#t hits the fan.
I just want to be prepared to self rescue when I am able, and when I am not, thanks to all those that risk their lives to help others in need.
And if you showed up to rescue me, I would just be humble and say thanks dude.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 20, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
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Me following the 2nd pitch of Zodiac in late November.....
Just to clarify . . . this is not the Zodiac on El Capitan.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Nov 21, 2012 - 08:14am PT
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No doubt, I'm getting second thoughts about this too. Let's wait for a break in the weather.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Nov 21, 2012 - 09:41am PT
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here's another shot of a pitch up high on zodiac i had to deal with. sure would have been nice to have a couple ice tools, foot fangs and about 6 screws, would have been actually fun instead of the nightmare pitch that it turned out to be. that time sar could have gotten to us if we needed it (luckily the pitch was leadable with lots of hammer chopping for placements), but the other two close calls i had on other routes we would have been toast if we didnt figure it out ourselves, night time in monster storms. it can take alot of time to get help when the weather turns nasty, and the chopper can be grounded because of stormy weather.
sure wish i would have had some of those bomber fish products when i used to go up there in winter conditions bitd. i have gone to sleep when its hella windy, and ice chunks are hammering the fly, just thinking if the fly failed, there would be no possible way to make it through the night
advise tip: before a big weather event get all of your raingear on and get in your ledge with the fly carefully prerigged so as to not damage it. have a good quality bivy sack, so you have a chance if the fly doesnt hold up. i used to bring two flys,one for backup, but they were not so good as the fish fly. sue and i would share the double ledge, and it would get so condensated that all would get damp/wet within 24 hours, even the bags in the bivy sacs. having the raingear on while in the bags helped keep you dryer and warmer for the multi day bivi's, while waiting out the big storm. then when its time to get out and go your ready for action. have ropes/racks stashed in haulbag to keep dryer. cant tell you how many times our ropes and racks were frozen into solid unusable clumps of uselessness. hard to get psyched when you cant pull the trigger of a camming devise!
neoprene gloves and plastic boots are'nt a bad idea either, can wear the inner boot to sleep in
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