ASCA bolt replacement in the 2011 - Please support us!

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
Hi Forum, Here is an update on some of what the American Safe Climbing Assn was up to in 2011 from Director Greg Barnes. Please consider the ASCA for you end of year donation by clicking here. Also, please follow us on facebook

 C


ASCA replacement in the US
ASCA-supported volunteers replaced hundreds of bolts all around the US in 2011, including several hundred bolts replaced by elbow-wrecking hand drilling in granite! From Red Rocks to Yosemite to Rifle to Smith Rocks to dozens of other crags, and from the major areas of the West to various smaller crags in the Carolinas, Alaska, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington, and of course California and Colorado. All of this is only possible through incredible volunteer efforts to install top quality stainless steel bolts funded entirely by climber donations!

Huge Fundraiser by Planet Granite
The ASCA fundraiser at Planet Granite was a huge success! Headline speaker Alex Honnold helped bring in about 300 people. We far exceeded our goal of $20,000... We raised $30395.85!! This was largely due to the very generous match by Planet Granite Gives Back of $10,000: for every member, $1 is donated per month to climbing, community and the environment.


ASCA goes international
The incredible failure rate of bolts in southern Thailand has been a widely recognized problem for the past decade - every type of stainless steel bolt corrodes and breaks rapidly. In past years the ASCA has assisted with ordering titanium bolts, but this year the ASCA directly supported substantial replacement in southern Thailand. In 2011 nearly 400 bolts were replaced with titanium glue-ins with ASCA support! While outside of the US, a substantial number of Americans climb in southern Thailand, most of the routes were established by Americans, and the area needs help from climbers all around the world in order to prevent catastrophic bolt failures.



ASCA-supported replacement in 2011

370+ in Thailand
300+ in Yosemite Valley
150+ in Red Rocks
100+ in Grand Junction area (Unaweep, Escalante, CO Nat'l Mon.)
80+ in Rifle
50+ in Tuolumne
50+ in Bishop area (Pine Creek, Alabama Hills anchors)
50+ in Needles & southern Sierra
45 in South Carolina (Table Rock State Park)
40+ in South Platte
40+ in Joshua Tree
20 in North Carolina (Rumbling Bald, Whitesides)

Additional areas include the Flatirons, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Mt. Erie, Owens River Gorge, Menagerie Wilderness, Southern Yosemite, Seward Highway, Hartman Rocks, Tongue River Canyon, Parker Bluff, and others.

Credit: Chris McNamara
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Dec 7, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
that's some nice looking pro!
for sale?
Sam Lightner, Jr

Social climber
WY
Dec 7, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
One spot has been forgotten.... we have replaced over 200 bolts (and anchors) in the greater Moab area. Thats from Indian Creek to Arches, Canyonlands, Castle Valley and the Fishers. It was done courtesy the ASCA. Thanks guys.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 7, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
Don't be so modest, Sam...

Thank YOU!
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Dec 7, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
thanks greg! and to all those guys fixing (good job), wow thats alot of anchors fixed!
anchor replacement, top of meatgrinder &#40;all stainless&#41;
anchor replacement, top of meatgrinder (all stainless)
Credit: mctwisted
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Dec 7, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
I can proudly spray that the left bolt on MeatGrinder [above foto] was my first one drilled in granite , done under close supervision of mctwisted.
nature

climber
Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Dec 7, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
so Alexey.... what your saying.... is if we clip that left bolt...


We're gonna die?


nice work....
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol, CA
Dec 7, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
I heard ASCA replaced the old bolts on Double Cross this year as well. Thanks guys!
MedDeviceEngineer

Trad climber
Ca
Dec 7, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
Nice Job Chris

That's some ugly looking bolts that got pulled. Good job to all involved.
nature

climber
Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Dec 7, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
What's up with Thailand?

you mean besides the fact that it really is a "you're going to die" situation?

nothing really.... what's a few extra rust streaks that use to be bolts?


Jerry, there's only one old bolt on Double Cross. The rest are retro.... so they replaced the one right before you top out?
A5scott

Trad climber
Chicago
Dec 7, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
Donated $25... not much but it will help... won't be my last donation that's for sure.

thanks ASCA for taking the initiative...

scott
Greg Barnes

climber
Dec 8, 2011 - 12:32am PT
What's up with Thailand?
Chloride Stress Corrosion Cracking - namely the bolts, even marine-grade stainless, fracture along stress lines in the metal (such as the bends in glue-in bolts) in a very short time (only a couple years at the worst). It took everyone by surprise when it was first noticed in the late '90s.

Here is an article on it from a few years back by John Byrnes, Skip Harper and Mike Shelton:

http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/deepbluesea.htm

Also Angele Sjong published a paper in 2008 on her investigation of the actual mechanism of the corrosion (which scientists would not have thought possible at tropical temperatures), based on a marine-grade stainless steel Petzl hanger that I broke with my fingers (just clipped it and twisted the biner - looked sketchy so I had placed a nut in a slot first!). It is a copyrighted article by the scientific journal so I can't repost it, but for those who are interested it is in the Journal of Failure Analysis and Prevention:

J. Fail. Anal. And Preven. (2008) 8:410-418.
Greg Barnes

climber
Dec 8, 2011 - 12:36am PT
One spot has been forgotten.... we have replaced over 200 bolts (and anchors) in the greater Moab area. Thats from Indian Creek to Arches, Canyonlands, Castle Valley and the Fishers. It was done courtesy the ASCA. Thanks guys.
Duh! Woops! I'm sure that's not the only spot I forgot (or where we haven't heard back on details).

Thanks Sam and partners! Sam & Liz replaced a bunch of those Thailand bolts too!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 8, 2011 - 02:55am PT
My fault for not reporting our work to Greg, but Clint and I did some bolt replacement at the Pinnacles National Monument this year. Always fun to be on a project with Clint!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 8, 2011 - 03:17am PT
Yes, as was memorably said in a movie about a high school, if you can't be an athlete, be an athletic supporter.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2011 - 10:37am PT
thank you all for the generous donations that have come in. You guys are the best!
cavemonkey

Ice climber
ak
Dec 8, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
please dont send prezwoods any more bolts
he's using them to retrobolt climbs he gets scared on
locker

Social climber
CO
Dec 8, 2011 - 12:31pm PT

"he's using them to retrobolt"...


IF that's true, it's really NOT COOL...

IF it's not true maybe you should delete the post???...

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 19, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
Safe bolt bump....
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
Thank you everyone for the support so far! We have gotten a bunch of donations including some VERY generous one. Thank you
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