ASCA bolt replacement in the 2011 - Please support us!

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 61 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Dec 20, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
ASCA can kiss my dick as long as they support retro bolting new lines over old routes.
Let us know when you get your act together then maybe you guys will get some respect.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
...as long as they support retro bolting new lines over old routes,

So retrobolting by the ASCA has been mentioned twice on this thread, but with any specific instance. I think that if accusations are made against people, and obscenities sprayed, perhaps some specifics should be revealed?

ASCA has generously supported the efforts made by myself, with help from William Leventhal, Ryan Mattock, Kevin Daniels and others replacing old dangerous bolts in the CA Needles. It has been clear to me from the start that ASCA materials are only to be used in bolt for bolt replacement. We take every effort to use the original hole, and never add a bolt to a route. Ever.

From their website:

The ASCA returns classic climbing routes to their original danger level by replacing deteriorating old fixed anchors, usually bolts, with modern camouflaged gear. We do not add bolts to make climbs "safer."
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
PM Nanook and his relationship with the ASCA Ksolem & locker.

I'm not looking to disparage all of their efforts but one bad apple...
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 02:22pm PT
Wow, since sending the SuperTopo Newsletter we have gotten 7 donations in the last 30 minutes. Thank you

The ASCA does not support any rebolting effort that is adding bolts to climbs. We just replace the bad bolts with good ones. We make that clear to people who get the bolts for replacement.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
Goat Breath - I have forwarded your ugly, libelous post to ASCA director Greg Barnes so he can reply, but as far as I am aware, Nanook has knott been involved with the ASCA for the better part of 10 years - irrespective of what he may or may knott have done.

If you (or anyone else) know of any specific instances of anyone using ACSA bolts inappropriately, that would certainly be worthy of sharing!
P.Rob

Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
I personally want to thank all the folks who have donated money, time and effort to this most needed endeavor. Big thanks for folks like Barry chambers, Cam Donahue , et al for their efforts here locally.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
So why do they continue to supply bolts to those that have retrobolted and those people blow off objections from the community.

You can deny all you want online Chris but the reality on the rock tells a different story.

WBraun

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
goatboy smellz

Sometimes they make an honest mistake with a bolt here or there.

And then there's guys like me;

Hey send me some bolts I think I see a new line next to WOS.

Only need a few, like maybe 300 will do ......
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
Again, you should name names or STFU, IMKSHO...
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
ASCA is a great organization, both those who get the donations and send the bolts, and the tireless, selfless volunteers who instead of going out and doing climbs, rap down routes, pull old bolts and often times hand drill new ones.

Yes, there have been some accusations of some people using ASCA hardware for uses other than bolt for bolt replacement. I have yet to see any of that substantiated.

When you look at all the good ASCA and it's volunteers do, it is a kickbutt org that doesn't get nearly enough thanks for their efforts.

If everybody would kick in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 or whatever, it would make a big difference. I just sent a couple bucks there way. I also do a fair bit of bolt replacement at my own expense.

Either do something positive about maintaining the routes you climb, chip in for those who do, or STFU. Too much bitchin, not enough helping out.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
HK I've heard differently maybe we are both wrong, maybe the ASCA needs to have a data base of what has been replaced and there will not be any confusion.

Werner, you know that's not an issue, changing anchor placements is all part of the game.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
So all you've got is "I've heard differently maybe we are both wrong" and yet it's worthy of you spewing "kiss my dick" in regard to a publicly funded, highly praised organization??

Wow. Just wow...
Gene

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:38pm PT
....maybe the ASCA needs to have a data base of what has been replaced and there will not be any confusion.

Here's a start...

http://www.safeclimbing.org/replacement.htm
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:39pm PT
What a pleasant chap you must be around the campfire.
Good luck getting your foot out of your mouth, bozo.

Edit: in response to Goat Breath posting (now deleted) that I should try kissing my dick.

Stay classy...
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
Yes HK if it gets my point across, sorry to offend your delicate sensibilities.

Gene that data base is incomplete, don't believe everything you read online.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Yes HK if it gets my point across, sorry to offend your delicate sensibilities.

Gene that data base is incomplete, don't believe everything you read online.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
Do I have to repeat myself to you burnouts? I'm knot dismissing all of ASCA efforts but they should take responsibly to past transgressions and make sure they are knot supplying bolts to folks that are retrobloting new lines over old routes.

Seriously you guys need to relax, it was only a simple call out, we don't need to call in the lawyers.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 20, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
Did someone say BOLTS?

H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Dec 20, 2011 - 03:59pm PT
Thanks Chris, Greg, Roger etc. for all the work you do. The world is a safer place.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 20, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Yep! Agree 100%
Messages 21 - 40 of total 61 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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