Twilight Zone vs. Steppin' Out

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Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 17, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
It is interesting to know opinion of those who climbed both routes and still remember them. Which is harder? Which is better?

Four years ago during same week I top roped both of those routes. I was doing OK on Steppin' Out and almost peel off from TZ.
At the time- I felt that TZ at least two letters grade harder. I was struggling so intensively to stay in crack - that I have no memories about the route.
Since than I led Steppin' Out several times without big problems, but still far from pure enjoinment . And I never returned to TZ.

Both routes rated in Reid book 10d** , both routes continuing OW about 100 ft long [ I talk about second crux pitch of TZ and ruling out first and third pitches]
TZ is overhanging OW in corner - narrowing to the top.
Steppin' Out is leaning offset splitter also overhanging with about same width all the way which changed from 5 to 6 inches

TZ has as I remember about 20 feet ow section where knee not fit in
Steppin' Out has tree short sections where knee not fit in, but those sections bypassed by short moves.

TZ has no good rests as I remember ???
Steppin' Out has two spots where you can fully restore your body.

It is time for me to finish road to Twilight Zone , but I still have some fear left to this route.
It TZ really two letters grade harder than Steppin' Out?
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Oct 17, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
Steppin Out is easier than TZ.

TZ is more demanding than Steppin Out

TZ is harder than Cream

Cream is harder than Steppin Out

Cream and Steppin Out are more secure than TZ
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 17, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
Tz is the real govno. Stepping out got rated the same cause dr E. Md. Didn't flash it. The rating stayed because in the ensuing decades nobody but you, me, Russ, Walt, and Scuffy ever climbed it..... Maybe.......
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Oct 17, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
As a side note Alexey.... Why the fuk are you asking this over here and not at WideFetish.com? For a full spraydown, try it over there. I can guarantee a more animated and complete answer, at least from me.
WBraun

climber
Oct 17, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
I free soloed all three of em

The Zone, Steppin' Out, and Cream.

They're all the same when do em that way ....
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Oct 17, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
The Generator Crack is harder than all three. Cream is only hard getting from fist to offwidth, then it's just chugging; TZ is a grovel but if you're rell good with T-boning with your feet, it makes a HUGE difference; they should never have put that bolt in Steppin' Out. Never soloed any of them, but BITD, the Zone was basically a solo.

JL
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
Russ, thank you for invite for widefetish.com. But why bother with registration if all two climbers from there who climbed both routes- you and Jaybro already chime in on this ST tread.
BTW, knowing that you normally incline to sandbag routes- and not TZ - and remember your story how metal plate of your jeans hold you from whipper on TZ- make my fear to be reasonable.

Jaybro, not sure that you precisely used russian word "govno"- which have only one meaning - sh#t..
and who is "dr E. Md."?

Edit:
Jaybro, now reading your widefetish tread I see you used Russian presisely, but it is not clear to me why you dislike TZ?
http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=709.msg7344;topicseen#msg7344
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Oct 17, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
The beauty is in the depth of the response. Here, a few quips and some comparisons, over there you might get a Skype interview of animated wide guys on liquor, a quicktime movie of the difference, and if available, pics and anecdotes.

SuperTaco is more like talking in line at the supermarket for me, where at WF you might get a vacation offer, a full spraydown, and maybe an invite to a WideFest.

Edit: as to the sandbagging.... Largo up there with the Generator Crack tale is really pulling your leg.
Generator crack = industry standard for 10b
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 18, 2011 - 12:02am PT
Pilgrims, Generator Crack is not harder than Twilight Zone, especially when considered as leads. I used to unrope Generator all the time. Largo is exaggerating.

And I agree with Russ' assessment of Cream, Twilight Zone and Stepping Out. I would also point out that the Zone is also the best route of the three.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Oct 18, 2011 - 12:08am PT
The beauty is in the depth of the response. Here, a few quips and some comparisons, over there you might get a Skype interview of animated wide guys on liquor, a quicktime movie of the difference, and if available, pics and anecdotes.

SuperTaco is more like talking in line at the supermarket for me, where at WF you might get a vacation offer, a full spraydown, and maybe an invite to a WideFest.

While we're in the market of commerce, comparing climbing websites like it matters is pretty coffee shop.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Oct 18, 2011 - 12:17am PT
Well I'm glad that's clear.....blondes, even dyed ones, need these things well defined or are we well defined and we need them clarified....or is that a certain type of butter for cooking Mojo de Ajo. Guess the twilight of the zone made my brain slip while steppin' out to embrace the fun of .....ST :DD
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 18, 2011 - 12:56am PT
It looks like the ratings should be changed to something like:
5.10c Steppin' Out
5.10d Cream
5.11a Twilight Zone

?

Alexey: who is "dr E. Md."?

Dr. Andy Embick?
(I know he tried Steppin' Out)
Captain...or Skully

climber
Where are you bound?
Oct 18, 2011 - 12:57am PT
Well, there are those that invite the discussion of various WYDE things, but I agree with Russ, it goes in its venue, in order to thoroughly deal with the subject matter at hand.
Twilight Zone is Hard.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 18, 2011 - 01:07am PT
I have more to add, but i'm taking it to the fetish

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1639961&tn=0#msg1640124
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Oct 18, 2011 - 01:12am PT
It looks like the ratings should be changed to something like:
5.10c Steppin' Out
5.10d Cream
5.11a Twilight Zone

Fatal flaw is TZ is the industry standard for 5.10c (yellow Meyers)
So, Steppin Out should be like 5.10b
and Cream should be 5.10+ (10a if your knee fits early, or 10d if your pants roll up on you)

Everyone knows the hardest OW's are always rated 10c. Who uprated the TZ anyway?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 18, 2011 - 01:30am PT
I thought Cream was harder than T-Zone.
WBraun

climber
Oct 18, 2011 - 01:33am PT
They're all rated 5.7

They're all kinda run out.

They all need lots of bolts to be made safe for this new 21st century.

The dark ages are now over.

The bolt will guide us to the safe zone.

Homeland security approved for the new world order.

Control!

Run out guys will all be collared in and put on leash ....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 18, 2011 - 02:10am PT
Russ,

> Fatal flaw is TZ is the industry standard for 5.10c (yellow Meyers)

I think you meant 5.10d (TZ is 5.10d in yellow Meyers).
And it was 5.10D in Bridwell's "Brave New World" article in 1973.
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/brave.htm
So was Steppin' Out.

And, yeah, it would be jarring to bump TZ into 5.11 after all these years.
So this suggests:

5.10b Steppin' Out
5.10c Cream
5.10d Twilight Zone

Now the only thing that might be a shock is downrating Cream by "2 letter grades".
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 18, 2011 - 02:21am PT
Alexey, I though TZ was easier than Steppin Out. On TZ I was able to stack my feet and get a good rest almost anywhere. Stepping Out I only got a couple rests when I was able to "step out" on some good face holds. I also miss judged the size of the crack and didn't bring a #5. I was glad that crap bolt was there as I didn't get pro until near the top.

Then again, I think the Vendetta is more like 5.9+.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 18, 2011 - 02:23am PT
"Placing gear is just a bother," -Dingus McGee.
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