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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 20, 2014 - 02:41am PT
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Oh rad, thanks for the bumpage, this one is new to me.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
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We did wyde weekend trying to make all "Bid 4" and try to sort them out in difficulty and quality with fresh memory.
Saturday: morning shade Twilight Zone, afternoon shade Steppin'out
Sunday: afternoon shade Cream ( warm up Energy crisis in morning shade) and really drag myself and Michal to Generator. After we climbed them we both had consensus about relative difficulty and quality
Generator- nothing can compete with approach and TR set up
TZ - easiest among the 3, but still looking most intimidating. Crux where 7" arm bar.
Steppin'out- hardest among the 3, and has at least two 8-10 feet hard sections, but you do them after good rests. In term of climbing is most interesting and rewarding. But- shitty approach pitches and angry ants at belay.
Cream- most aesthetic line, deceptively friendly looking. Crux is very short, hard and technical transition from 3.5" to 5", but it just one move wonder. But above it 100 feet of sustain burly climbing. Difficult approach.
Get a lot of dopamine into brain on Monday morning
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 14, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
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That picture of Ed climbing TZ in shorts gives me the willies. He must have ground the sh#t out of his knee. It's all body tension in that one.
JL
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 14, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
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Get a lot of dopamine into brain on Monday morning
Alexey, one of the best TR's ever! Just because it brings in the thought of doing all this in a weekend. Cheers to ya!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
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K-man, I have better plan, which I can not chew myself but can pass it to you. All well known high quality Yosemite 10+OW** in one weekend in the shade:
All in the shade:
Day1 : a) TZ- morning shade; b)Plumb Line- in shade after 11:30 ;c) Cream- in shade after 1pm
Day2: a)MentalBlock -morning/afternoon shade ; 1096- late afternoon shade; Stepping out - shade after 2 pm
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Apr 14, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
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Way to go Alexey ! We did that left side of independence pinnacle a few weeks ago - that's a nice wide section on the second pitch. Left side of the Slack and Ahab need to get into the master list as well as Mental block.......maybe a really big weekend for you !
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2014 - 06:31pm PT
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yes David, Memorial day 3 day weekend with Ahab , Slack Left and Vendetta on Monday if I can get out of the tent
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 14, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
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This thread is all kinds of awesome.
Edit: Ahab was fun!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2015 - 11:33am PT
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noble goal to climb both Doom&Despair in a day.
Now it more doable since they become "convenience" rappel climbs.
So far -far from that goal - we did in two day weekend 1.5 of those 2 routes only
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 21, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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Didn't see this the first time. Did them both bitd sans cams. Thought Stepping Out was more fun but remember a big run out off the deck on TZ.
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