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Trad climber
The Best Place On Earth
Jun 27, 2011 - 01:24am PT

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 27, 2011 - 01:25am PT

can you give an idea of one affected climb?

In today's day and age of, that's a strong statement. I think you're right that bolting next to cracks is unwarranted and that bolts next to cracks set a bad precedent, unless the gear is highly questionable or likely to break the flake.


Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 27, 2011 - 01:25am PT


Way out there....
Jun 27, 2011 - 01:50am PT

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 27, 2011 - 01:54am PT
You'll need a name change to 'untwisted'.

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jun 27, 2011 - 01:55am PT
Now, that's some ethical juju, good karma stuff coming your way, for sure.

Upgrading those routes, so the wee ones see how it's done these days.


Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jun 27, 2011 - 02:38am PT
You're setting a great example of how things should and are getting done these days. It makes for a more asthetic and enjoyable line without all that unnatural steel marking the way.

Now, if we could only get these WANKERS around Tahoe to follow suit.
They'll come around eventually.

Thank You!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 27, 2011 - 02:46am PT
Thanks, Dan. Should bump up the quality. We are lucky to have so many good cracks (or even just a few) - they make the game more interesting!
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Jun 27, 2011 - 02:47am PT
NICE!!!!! Hope it sets an example for others to reconsider some of the un-needed bolts they have placed. Figuring out the pro is half the fun sometimes. A commendable thing to do!

Social climber
Jun 27, 2011 - 05:07am PT
I dig it.

Jun 27, 2011 - 05:11am PT
i will be sure to list the changes for the upcoming guidebook.

Could you please list the routes and changes here (and why not on mountainproject)?

That way the information will be out immediately, instead of waiting for the guidebook. Thanks.

Jun 27, 2011 - 08:59am PT
Why did you place them the first time if you are just going to turn around and change your mind? Around here for new routes, it's more de-regiuer to leave something unbolted, get others feedback, and only then put it in. No offense, but shouldn't you have thought it out better? Along those lines, do you feel you are more sure of what needs to be done in the way of "doing the right thing" (others views saying WTF? afte they climb your route) on the removal front?

Good luck on either case.

in the last month and a half ive removed over 25 bolts from sport routes in and around yosemite. sanitation wall, chapel wall, pat and jack cliff, tioga crags.
these were bolts placed where crack gear could be used, and i wanted to let people know to bring some extra gear for these crags. i should be done with this work in a few months, i have over a hundred routes to think about, and get to, at the appropriate time of year.
i am only removing bolts that i have placed!
its more fun placing a few cams and nuts! what was i thinking???
i will be sure to list the changes for the upcoming guidebook.
dan mcdevitt

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jun 27, 2011 - 09:30am PT
What in the world makes you think he put the routes up in the first place?

Edit: my bad. too early in the morning for reading comprehension.

Go Dan! Yosemite ain't no sport gym.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 27, 2011 - 10:01am PT
Good for you, Dan......if that is your choice, and you placed them;....then that should be respected. You are a wise person, establish many first ascents for all to enjoy, and are a major creative force. Unfortunately, not all Bolt Choppers are like you. Many chop bolts for other reasons than to make the routes the way they should be. Some chop routes to piss someone off, get back at someone, teach someone a "lesson", make routes dangerous, pump up their low self-esteem,...or some other twisted personal vendetta that gets people hurt or killed, or messes with friendships and fun. Good luck with your quest, and keep you vision clear and true. You are an example of doing things right for the right reasons;....I hope others take note..................................(and now you got some extra hangers for your new projects;.....yeeehooooo!)
Lurking Fear

Boulder climber
Bishop, California
Jun 27, 2011 - 10:01am PT
Good work. There is nothing wrong with fixing your mistakes. I agree that people will get more out of the leads if they think about gear placements and the routes will look aesthetic. Thanks, Andrew.

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jun 27, 2011 - 10:35am PT
You're letting your conscience be your guide, which is a good thing.

Are any of these routes considered classics?
Are they on walls surrounded by other sport routes?
And what is your criteria for removal?
I mean, I don't think you placed bolts right next to super bomber placements... and as with sport climbs everywhere, you COULD stop and dink in an rp...but...

Just wondering.

And btw, I like those mixed, connect (ambiguously)protectable features kind of climbs. It USED to be the ethic here at Mt Lemmon.
I also like straight up sport routes, even ones with bolts next to "protectable" features.

Do your thing!
Matt M

Trad climber
Alamo City
Jun 27, 2011 - 10:42am PT
Forget the bolts

I want to hear about the new BOOK
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Jun 27, 2011 - 12:10pm PT

I was climbing in the shade at Lower Cathedral Rock a while ago, and climbed a crack called End of the Line .10c. Great crack, but it has one bolt protecting a mantle and reach move. Small cams could be placed right next to the bolt. I was told that you have bolted in this area. Did you put this pitch up? If so, you should consider it for your removal project.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 27, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
Dan- Thanks for being the clean-up guy!

There is a lot of stupid and unnecessary bolting going on out there these days.

Thanks for giving a damn about keeping it clean!
George R

The Gray Area
Jun 27, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
Good work Dan !

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