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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Jun 28, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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All I can say is Dan is the Man! Im thankful there are still some of the oldschoolers around to hang and be an inspiration to the youth. Thanks Dan!
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 28, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
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Hi Ron,
Thank you for your sincere reply. I agree that standards are needed, but my point was, once a stray bolt is in here and there on a route, better to leave 'em in, even if the bolt didn't belong there in the first place.
If it is vital to a person's values to do it as a traditional climb, do it but if a person wants to do it as a bolted sport climb, let 'em and leave 'em alone!! There was a time where I couldn't afford gear, and I was grateful for bolts.
The route belongs to the 1st acensionist, but the rock doesn't.
I am a political libertarian and it extends to climbing for me.
I remember when Royal Robbins went up to chop on Wall of Early Morning, then he decided he had better ways to spend his time, I respect him so much for being honest about it.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 28, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
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If it is vital to a person's values to do it as a traditional climb, do it but if a person wants to do it as a bolted sport climb, let 'em and leave 'em alone!!
Again, couldn't disagree more - the "just don't clip'em" meme is so weak as to be bankrupt.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jun 28, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
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Rox- pretty sure most of us posting here have never published a guide book. in fact if this post bugs you so much, i suggest you turn off your computer and go climb.
Coz is right - putting up FA is fun, that is why i do it..
Todd is right as well.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jun 28, 2011 - 08:05pm PT
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Thanks for the heads up McD. Might be nice to put the info on the Mtn Proj descriptions for the routes, since we've been waiting for a new/updated Valley guide for many, many, many, many years and it would suck to show up with a rack of draws and find the bolts gone.
As for the other blah blah blah on here, who cares what a bunch of armchair wankers think. 98% of you don't even climb off the sofa.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jun 28, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
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Dan,
Any chance you can post some names of the affected routes here?
Thanks!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 28, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
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rox
"Abuses to the priveledge of climbing"
Hogwash!
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Pass the Chongo, Chongo
Social climber
love, trust, and T*Rs nuts!
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Jun 28, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
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HEY ROXJOX:
GO F*#K YOUR SELF,,, YOU ARE NOTHING BUT AN EGO DRIVEN F*#K HEAD,,, YOU F*#KING DIP SH#T,,, F*#K YOU AND YOURE WOLVES YOU F*#KING CUNT<<<!!!!!
MCDIVETT:
KEEP IT UP,,, EVERYONE LOVES YOUR ROUTES,,, BOLTS OR NOT,,, THEY ARE FINE, WELL THOUGHT OUT ROUTES, THAT ARE A GREAT ADDITION TO THE VALLEY,,,
THANKS!!!!!!!!!
-PTCc
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 28, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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You're just off-base on this thread Rox
Dan has climbed many new notable walls, not to mention countless crag routes in Yosemite without publishing or announcing squat about it!
Your sounding like a guy about the carnivorous excesses of white-tailed deer
Dan is giving the community a heads up on his plans. Great! I'm not a particular advocate of these new steps but I think he's doing it the right way. Kudos
Peace
Karl
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 28, 2011 - 11:58pm PT
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FACT: Roxy found a job as one of those paid agitators for the GOP.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jun 29, 2011 - 01:15am PT
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I didn't see this unwarranted sh#t storm coming, but wanted to thank Dan for everything, including doing the right thing as he sees it.
BTW, still looking for one of your hammers....I've got cash:-)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 29, 2011 - 02:16am PT
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BTW, still looking for one of your hammers....I've got cash:-)
Ditto! I will add a $twenty$ to any of Couchmasters offers....:O
Dude has all the good Hammers!
Maybe we call upon T Moses to whip up a batch?
Thanks for the word Dan, good on you.
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