castle rock state park - bouldering beta

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 58 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 29, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
anyone know anything about any new bouldering in and around crsp!?

i hear that a few new things have been done at and around the nature nazis since the arete got brought back to life with the tree removal - ive done a few of them and tried the long traverse but i was wondering if anyone knows any names or grades?? and i hear there might be some hard sit start projects in the waterfall/stoner cave nearby!?

how about the priv crack just north of crsp parking lot - anyone know if its been done, ive heard v11 ish!!?? and how about the new stuff south of crsp?? it was really good and i want to go back to it again also but i think there is more to be found all around..
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Dec 29, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
There is some stuff I ran across that I had never heard of before, down hill from Indian Rock. If you go directly downhill from Krokus (put you back to Krokus and start marching), there's some good looking stuff.

I checked it out with Dr. Sprock but didn't do much. Just scoping stuff out. It was a 'moist' day.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:15pm PT
Hee Hee Hee, Blue said "moist." Suppurating is also a favorite of mine, and pustule...


Charles
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jan 15, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
Believe that "Asian Invasion" (V6/7) mantle is directly downhill from "Krokus" 100 feet behind Indian Rock. There's also a V2 down there. Don't know about anything else new or recent. Think there's a video on YouTube of someone doing "Asian Invasion" also, but don't have the link handy right now.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Jan 15, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
bump for climbing
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 16, 2011 - 02:48am PT
Hey drunkenmaster, ever rope up and try the roof above waimea arÍte? We relocated some moss and now it's a sweet roof to heinous mantle. Mike got it, im still working on it. Give it a go next time your there, it's sweet huecos and toe hooks straight out the roof.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jan 16, 2011 - 11:15am PT
Hmmm, I may be up there today. Looks moist out but the ridge may be dry. It's moistly Valley Fog, I think.

Maybe do the Indian to Nature Nazi circuit. I dunno. My buddy wants to hike, I wanna climb. We can do both!

Hey Sprock, you out there? Maybe hit the Los Altos Rod/Gun club on the way. I have a never-been-fired .45 that is ready to go...
Talusfeeder

Social climber
Here
Jan 16, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
DM-Here is the info I have of problems that either I or people I know cleaned and climbed...Im not claiming FA's or anything..but none of these are in any guidebook I have seen.

Between Sharma Arete and the Classic, there is: 16 in the Clip, One in the Hole V8: Start on edges with terrible feet...Throw to right hand Slot, easier move to lip and top out with ease...Still a little dirty up top...A cool two move problem on a sheer face...really cool.

Behind Indian Rock:

Right Hand Indian Man V6
Dark Side of the Moon V7
Dark Side of the Moon Direct V9

These two boulders and three problems make a little corner facing downhill from the Santa Cruz Dude dyno...Right Hand...is on the right.

Down below this there is the big boulder with the overhanging prow. There are a few easy problems that climb this prow, and a harder problem called Reel Time just to the right of the tree, over the little rock. V5ish..its a little flakey

Directly behind this there is a low profile boulder. The left corner of it is Asian Invasion V7...this is the best problem in this little area. On the opposite corner of the boulder is a V6..but it kind of sucks and is really crumbly. There is an easy traverse right of Asian Invasion and a left extension to Asian Invasion that is pretty hard, but possibly the only way to utilize that cool little roof.

On the backside of the Asian Invasion boulder there are a couple lines that could get cleaned..Mainly the giant, hopefully perfect slab...its under a lawn though.

Just downhill and left of A.I. is a little kinda crusty slab...Stupor Slab...Step off of the cheatstone and make your way up...It's not great, but it might clean up to be pretty cool. V4ish..maybe?

Following the dry creek gully down the hill from here will bring you to a cool split low angle slab boulder. Near this there are two other problems.

Pink Moon V4- On the first small boulder. Start in scoop and grab/mantle the perfect sphere sloper. Really short, but great holds. Just downhill is:

Secret of the Easy Yoke-V5 Start on left side of boulder, make your way past blocky rail and throw right to slopey lip. A little less ass dragger than Lost Keys, but not much.

There is also a traverse up by the AI boulder, on the right side of the gully...it sucks though.

Is the crack you are talking about on the Roadkill Boulder?? The TR project thing? That went a couple years ago...Steps and Numbers. Climb the crack, mantle into the little Dihedral and make your way past giant Hueco (which now is a nest...) Highball.

There is a left sit start to Groundation....it climbs really well.

There is a line between Eco and Wish You Would Go:

Sit start on right facing rail. Throw left to Eco Start hold. Hard heel hook on Start hold and go up to undercling pocket thing...match on the slopey bulge (usually used as the last right foot for Eco) go straight up the slab (should probably be cleaned.)...Not sure if this is new but I climbed this in October...V8

There is a long linkup project in the stoner cave. The only new problem there that I know of is
Ken Kesey and the Merry Pranksters-something between V7 and V10..Start on Swinger and climb out the roof as for Rasta...At the good flat hold, go right and follow the horizontal arete and throw to a big flat hold. Drop.

There is the AC Le Rok area on the hillside adjacent to the Muffins. There are 4 problems that have been done here, although the rock needs to clean up a bit more...This area is a pain to get to, probably won't ever be worth the bushwhacking.

There is a new area being developed, not really public yet though.

Let me know if you have any questions.



bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jan 16, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
On the backside of the Asian Invasion boulder there are a couple lines that could get cleaned..Mainly the giant, hopefully perfect slab...its under a lawn though.

Hold on, I think I have a pic of this....

Credit: bluering
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 16, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
Speaking of Sprock, where is that Dr? I miss poignant yet quirky insights. If you see him tell him to get back here, blue. also, remind him of the woodson march19-20 deal!
Talusfeeder

Social climber
Here
Jan 16, 2011 - 01:10pm PT
Yeah, thats the slab. That little overhang to the left of the person contains the start holds to the crummy V6 which climbs the face directly around the corner. There is also a cool right leaning pinch feature to the right of the tree. It seems like it would go pretty easily, but it is over a rock and not great landing...

That slab looks really cool though!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jan 16, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
Jaybro, I'll prolly call him today when my buddy gets off work, hopefully soon...

Dr. Sprock is THE guy to go bouldering with. I'll tell him you said "hey". Do I have anymore Sprock classic pics????

Sometimes use your beard for more friction!!!!
Sometimes use your beard for more friction!!!!
Credit: bluering

Sprock was lurking
Sprock was lurking
Credit: bluering

more problems
Credit: bluering

Credit: bluering

Credit: bluering

Credit: bluering


Talus, I had the same thoughts about that slab. Needs work, but could be really cool. That is Sprock assaulting the slab.

It's Joe Walsh, Surfin' USA!!!


I climb, like, 3 grades harder than normal with a smoke in my face.





bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jan 16, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
Barcus (member of the IHCC) enjoying the golden nectar about where you wanna head downhill.




drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
thanks for all the info!! i just found asian invasion and dark side of the moon. i actually saw those a long time ago before they were done but not being from the area i never made it back to clean and do them :( they look real good though. i never knew the name "right hand indian man" - nice!

the stoner cave thing soundsl ike my problem rasta - start swinger then traverse right into aquarius to finish on the drop off at the flat jug?? or does it go farther right?? i always thought a traverse from swinger all the way to stoner traverse might go?? but itd be hard. what about a sit start to swinger or a traverse in from the left even!??

the thing between the classic and sharma arete sounds killer!! thanks again.

i will post up when im heading down next and maybe we can get a crew together!! im off to develop some new sunny (but priv prop) schist boulders near squaw rock in mendo today hopefully!! :)


has the traverse in the scoop like feature on the right side of the boulder in the pic below been done?? it has a weird rocky butt dragger type gully under/behind it but it would end onthe fun jug rails in the pic??

traverse on the right?????
traverse on the right?????
Credit: drunkenmaster
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
"16 in the Clip, One in the Hole V8" - sounds fukn rad!!

and so does "Secret of the Easy Yoke"


much thanks again!!
Talusfeeder

Social climber
Here
Jan 16, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
the stoner cave thing soundsl ike my problem rasta - start swinger then traverse right into aquarius to finish on the drop off at the flat jug?? or does it go farther right?? i always thought a traverse from swinger all the way to stoner traverse might go?? but itd be hard. what about a sit start to swinger or a traverse in from the left even!??

It starts out the same way, but if you are standing outside, looking into the cave, instead of going straight up to the flat drop off jusg, you go left along the overhanging corner, towards the entrance of the cave...it adds about 10 feet of climbing.

The super project in the cave starts at the very back of the cave...goes through a really really difficult vertical pinch feature and links into swinger...or rasta...I don't know if it goes.

I also did the swinger/stoner traverse linkup...it is more awkward than hard, but has a rest in between the problems...probably adds a couple grades.

On the boulder pictured, I have done a straight up problem on that right corner at about V3 and have only looked at the right to left line...it looks really cool, but kind of a bummer about the weird landing.

I know there is a lot more stuff out there...Im just too lazy to go find it!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jan 16, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
drunkenmaster, I just go out and climb stones, I'm not even that much of a boulderer. Just something to do until I can rope up with someone. I don't know the names of half the sh#t I posted, but it's cool to see others do!

Thanks for eveyone's input!
Climb on!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 16, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
Is the crack you are talking about on the Roadkill Boulder?? The TR project thing? That went a couple years ago...Steps and Numbers. Climb the crack, mantle into the little Dihedral and make your way past giant Hueco (which now is a nest...) Highball.


I thought this went in the 80s. The project would be to go out right, IIRC.

Bruce, any insight.


All,

It's probably not a good idea to talk about or promote whole sale scrubbing of big green boulders. know what I'm saying?

drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
i just went last week and did the right to left traverse and it was pretty sandy and dirty and had a crumbly hold i broke off so i think it was probly an fa!? i'll try to think of a good name but i often suck at naming stuff - is the back of that thing the scrubby death slab/arete thing?? maybe i can play off its name. my traverse finishes on the v3ish thing that has a direct straight up dyno variation or the traverse up left along the rail. i ended on the rail traverse - the dyno variation could still be done for another fa!? both ways are very fun. does anyone know if the v3ish thing has a name - - bruce, anybody??

and right munge - lets try to keep the scrubbing on the dl eh?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 27, 2011 - 02:49am PT
well, I'm not gunna tell folks what they should or shouldn't do, at least until I post next week. But talking about it seems to promote it, and lots of problems get sent without a wholesale scrub fest. So just saying, moderation in things is good.

carry on

Messages 1 - 20 of total 58 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews