castle rock state park - bouldering beta

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drunkenmaster

Social climber

santa rosa

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 29, 2010 - 02:53pm PT

anyone know anything about any new bouldering in and around crsp!?

i hear that a few new things have been done at and around the nature nazis since the arete got brought back to life with the tree removal - ive done a few of them and tried the long traverse but i was wondering if anyone knows any names or grades?? and i hear there might be some hard sit start projects in the waterfall/stoner cave nearby!?

how about the priv crack just north of crsp parking lot - anyone know if its been done, ive heard v11 ish!!?? and how about the new stuff south of crsp?? it was really good and i want to go back to it again also but i think there is more to be found all around..

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Dec 29, 2010 - 03:17pm PT

There is some stuff I ran across that I had never heard of before, down hill from Indian Rock. If you go directly downhill from Krokus (put you back to Krokus and start marching), there's some good looking stuff.

I checked it out with Dr. Sprock but didn't do much. Just scoping stuff out. It was a 'moist' day.

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jan 15, 2011 - 04:11pm PT

Believe that "Asian Invasion" (V6/7) mantle is directly downhill from "Krokus" 100 feet behind Indian Rock. There's also a V2 down there. Don't know about anything else new or recent. Think there's a video on YouTube of someone doing "Asian Invasion" also, but don't have the link handy right now.

Jingy

climber

Somewhere out there

Jan 15, 2011 - 11:15pm PT

bump for climbing

karodrinker

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Jan 16, 2011 - 02:48am PT

Hey drunkenmaster, ever rope up and try the roof above waimea arête? We relocated some moss and now it's a sweet roof to heinous mantle. Mike got it, im still working on it. Give it a go next time your there, it's sweet huecos and toe hooks straight out the roof.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Jan 16, 2011 - 11:15am PT

Hmmm, I may be up there today. Looks moist out but the ridge may be dry. It's moistly Valley Fog, I think.

Maybe do the Indian to Nature Nazi circuit. I dunno. My buddy wants to hike, I wanna climb. We can do both!

Hey Sprock, you out there? Maybe hit the Los Altos Rod/Gun club on the way. I have a never-been-fired .45 that is ready to go...

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 16, 2011 - 12:52pm PT

DM-Here is the info I have of problems that either I or people I know cleaned and climbed...Im not claiming FA's or anything..but none of these are in any guidebook I have seen.

Between Sharma Arete and the Classic, there is: 16 in the Clip, One in the Hole V8: Start on edges with terrible feet...Throw to right hand Slot, easier move to lip and top out with ease...Still a little dirty up top...A cool two move problem on a sheer face...really cool.

Behind Indian Rock:

Right Hand Indian Man V6
Dark Side of the Moon V7
Dark Side of the Moon Direct V9

These two boulders and three problems make a little corner facing downhill from the Santa Cruz Dude dyno...Right Hand...is on the right.

Down below this there is the big boulder with the overhanging prow. There are a few easy problems that climb this prow, and a harder problem called Reel Time just to the right of the tree, over the little rock. V5ish..its a little flakey

Directly behind this there is a low profile boulder. The left corner of it is Asian Invasion V7...this is the best problem in this little area. On the opposite corner of the boulder is a V6..but it kind of sucks and is really crumbly. There is an easy traverse right of Asian Invasion and a left extension to Asian Invasion that is pretty hard, but possibly the only way to utilize that cool little roof.

On the backside of the Asian Invasion boulder there are a couple lines that could get cleaned..Mainly the giant, hopefully perfect slab...its under a lawn though.

Just downhill and left of A.I. is a little kinda crusty slab...Stupor Slab...Step off of the cheatstone and make your way up...It's not great, but it might clean up to be pretty cool. V4ish..maybe?

Following the dry creek gully down the hill from here will bring you to a cool split low angle slab boulder. Near this there are two other problems.

Pink Moon V4- On the first small boulder. Start in scoop and grab/mantle the perfect sphere sloper. Really short, but great holds. Just downhill is:

Secret of the Easy Yoke-V5 Start on left side of boulder, make your way past blocky rail and throw right to slopey lip. A little less ass dragger than Lost Keys, but not much.

There is also a traverse up by the AI boulder, on the right side of the gully...it sucks though.

Is the crack you are talking about on the Roadkill Boulder?? The TR project thing? That went a couple years ago...Steps and Numbers. Climb the crack, mantle into the little Dihedral and make your way past giant Hueco (which now is a nest...) Highball.

There is a left sit start to Groundation....it climbs really well.

There is a line between Eco and Wish You Would Go:

Sit start on right facing rail. Throw left to Eco Start hold. Hard heel hook on Start hold and go up to undercling pocket thing...match on the slopey bulge (usually used as the last right foot for Eco) go straight up the slab (should probably be cleaned.)...Not sure if this is new but I climbed this in October...V8

There is a long linkup project in the stoner cave. The only new problem there that I know of is
Ken Kesey and the Merry Pranksters-something between V7 and V10..Start on Swinger and climb out the roof as for Rasta...At the good flat hold, go right and follow the horizontal arete and throw to a big flat hold. Drop.

There is the AC Le Rok area on the hillside adjacent to the Muffins. There are 4 problems that have been done here, although the rock needs to clean up a bit more...This area is a pain to get to, probably won't ever be worth the bushwhacking.

There is a new area being developed, not really public yet though.

Let me know if you have any questions.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Jan 16, 2011 - 12:57pm PT

On the backside of the Asian Invasion boulder there are a couple lines that could get cleaned..Mainly the giant, hopefully perfect slab...its under a lawn though.

Hold on, I think I have a pic of this....

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jan 16, 2011 - 01:03pm PT

Speaking of Sprock, where is that Dr? I miss poignant yet quirky insights. If you see him tell him to get back here, blue. also, remind him of the woodson march19-20 deal!

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 16, 2011 - 01:10pm PT

Yeah, thats the slab. That little overhang to the left of the person contains the start holds to the crummy V6 which climbs the face directly around the corner. There is also a cool right leaning pinch feature to the right of the tree. It seems like it would go pretty easily, but it is over a rock and not great landing...

That slab looks really cool though!

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Jan 16, 2011 - 01:13pm PT

Jaybro, I'll prolly call him today when my buddy gets off work, hopefully soon...

Dr. Sprock is THE guy to go bouldering with. I'll tell him you said "hey". Do I have anymore Sprock classic pics????

more problems

Talus, I had the same thoughts about that slab. Needs work, but could be really cool. That is Sprock assaulting the slab.

It's Joe Walsh, Surfin' USA!!!

I climb, like, 3 grades harder than normal with a smoke in my face.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Jan 16, 2011 - 01:48pm PT

Barcus (member of the IHCC) enjoying the golden nectar about where you wanna head downhill.

drunkenmaster

Social climber

santa rosa

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 01:59pm PT

thanks for all the info!! i just found asian invasion and dark side of the moon. i actually saw those a long time ago before they were done but not being from the area i never made it back to clean and do them :( they look real good though. i never knew the name "right hand indian man" - nice!

the stoner cave thing soundsl ike my problem rasta - start swinger then traverse right into aquarius to finish on the drop off at the flat jug?? or does it go farther right?? i always thought a traverse from swinger all the way to stoner traverse might go?? but itd be hard. what about a sit start to swinger or a traverse in from the left even!??

the thing between the classic and sharma arete sounds killer!! thanks again.

i will post up when im heading down next and maybe we can get a crew together!! im off to develop some new sunny (but priv prop) schist boulders near squaw rock in mendo today hopefully!! :)

has the traverse in the scoop like feature on the right side of the boulder in the pic below been done?? it has a weird rocky butt dragger type gully under/behind it but it would end onthe fun jug rails in the pic??

drunkenmaster

Social climber

santa rosa

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 02:05pm PT

"16 in the Clip, One in the Hole V8" - sounds fukn rad!!

and so does "Secret of the Easy Yoke"

much thanks again!!

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 16, 2011 - 02:07pm PT

the stoner cave thing soundsl ike my problem rasta - start swinger then traverse right into aquarius to finish on the drop off at the flat jug?? or does it go farther right?? i always thought a traverse from swinger all the way to stoner traverse might go?? but itd be hard. what about a sit start to swinger or a traverse in from the left even!??

It starts out the same way, but if you are standing outside, looking into the cave, instead of going straight up to the flat drop off jusg, you go left along the overhanging corner, towards the entrance of the cave...it adds about 10 feet of climbing.

The super project in the cave starts at the very back of the cave...goes through a really really difficult vertical pinch feature and links into swinger...or rasta...I don't know if it goes.

I also did the swinger/stoner traverse linkup...it is more awkward than hard, but has a rest in between the problems...probably adds a couple grades.

On the boulder pictured, I have done a straight up problem on that right corner at about V3 and have only looked at the right to left line...it looks really cool, but kind of a bummer about the weird landing.

I know there is a lot more stuff out there...Im just too lazy to go find it!

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Jan 16, 2011 - 02:08pm PT

drunkenmaster, I just go out and climb stones, I'm not even that much of a boulderer. Just something to do until I can rope up with someone. I don't know the names of half the sh#t I posted, but it's cool to see others do!

Thanks for eveyone's input!
Climb on!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Jan 16, 2011 - 04:00pm PT

Is the crack you are talking about on the Roadkill Boulder?? The TR project thing? That went a couple years ago...Steps and Numbers. Climb the crack, mantle into the little Dihedral and make your way past giant Hueco (which now is a nest...) Highball.

I thought this went in the 80s. The project would be to go out right, IIRC.

Bruce, any insight.

All,

It's probably not a good idea to talk about or promote whole sale scrubbing of big green boulders. know what I'm saying?

drunkenmaster

Social climber

santa rosa

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 08:21pm PT

i just went last week and did the right to left traverse and it was pretty sandy and dirty and had a crumbly hold i broke off so i think it was probly an fa!? i'll try to think of a good name but i often suck at naming stuff - is the back of that thing the scrubby death slab/arete thing?? maybe i can play off its name. my traverse finishes on the v3ish thing that has a direct straight up dyno variation or the traverse up left along the rail. i ended on the rail traverse - the dyno variation could still be done for another fa!? both ways are very fun. does anyone know if the v3ish thing has a name - - bruce, anybody??

and right munge - lets try to keep the scrubbing on the dl eh?

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Jan 27, 2011 - 02:49am PT

well, I'm not gunna tell folks what they should or shouldn't do, at least until I post next week. But talking about it seems to promote it, and lots of problems get sent without a wholesale scrub fest. So just saying, moderation in things is good.

carry on

Adamame

Big Wall climber

Santa Cruz

Jan 27, 2011 - 12:16pm PT

That stuff below Indian Rock is nothing new. A Santa Cruz crew did many of those problems over ten years ago, but I haven't been there since and it was not our style to name things or even care about grades. I would love to check it out again now that I am recovered from a trad phase. Castle Rock is so funny with FAs as you never know who was there due to the moss factor. When Chris and I scrubbed the Eco Terrorist we had no clue Yabo had done the same years before. Now the real eco terrorist is how much we have eroded the landing not the moss removal.

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Jan 27, 2011 - 12:44pm PT

I would love to check it out again now that I am recovered from a trad phase.

Whoa bro, there's a long road to recovery. Diligent 12-steps will be on the menu.

Adamame

Big Wall climber

Santa Cruz

Jan 27, 2011 - 01:01pm PT

I may never recover, but for now I will attempt to climb with the bolts and pad people once again.

kev

climber

A pile of dirt.

Jan 27, 2011 - 01:24pm PT

Scrubbing beta - please don't go out and make huge white streaks!
I'm not saying you should or shouldn't clean but if you do, then do it right. Blend it in and spread it out so it looks more natural and not just white patches right next to thick moss. That sh#t grows back so quickly....

kev

James

climber

My twin brother's laundry room

Jan 28, 2011 - 02:45pm PT

I don't think that boulder problem's name is Asian Invasion. Moses Potter did it a long time ago- like 7 years. I did it about 6 years ago. I called it Moses Bulge but he probably thought of a better name.

Adamame

Big Wall climber

Santa Cruz

Jan 28, 2011 - 03:29pm PT

James, this is such a common case at Castle. Our crew just never gave a crap about names, grade, ego, or even telling anyone what we did. We were all just having a good time in the park then came West Coast Pimp and Rampage. Castle Rock the land of ReFA's.

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Feb 7, 2011 - 12:03pm PT

That stuff below Indian Rock is nothing new.

No one claimed that any of those problems were new, I was just pointing them out to DM...I fully realize that that stuff is all ran through, and it was actually Moses who gave me the tip for most of that stuff...

I have mentioned a couple problems to Moses and Bruce that they never new about. Not for ego sake, but just to figure out if the stone had any history...I think that tends to be okay.

Our crew just never gave a crap about names, grade, ego, or even telling anyone what we did.

This is the sort of veiled ego that creates tension in the community...The way this statement comes off is overflowing with a self righteous lack of humility. I completely assume that this is NOT your intention, but people like Moses really demonstrate actual humility...he won't even bring up any of this stuff if you were claiming FA's of all of his problems right in front of him.

Here is the info I have of problems that either I or people I know cleaned and climbed...Im not claiming FA's or anything..but none of these are in any guidebook I have seen.

I think that is pretty obvious that I went into this conversation realizing that while many of these lumps haven't been touched in the past 15 years, more than likely they have been ridden before...I was simply pointing out where there were problems that Chris may have not known about, and what we call them (rather than 'that crusty boulder by the tree' or 'that boulder with the crappy slopers') And grades, so he can figure out what he feels like doing difficulty wise....

No harm in that, right?

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Feb 7, 2011 - 12:08pm PT

don't think that boulder problem's name is Asian Invasion. Moses Potter did it a long time ago- like 7 years. I did it about 6 years ago. I called it Moses Bulge but he probably thought of a better name.

I don't know what it's called, ill check it's micro chip next time i'm down there...this is a name Iheard someone else calling it...it sure works better than "that thing with the edges and sloper down the hill....no, to the left....no...on the other boulder...."

I don't think how we refer to problems is a big deal, it would be lame though if I came up and said I found, cleaned and popped this problem..and named it whatever...

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 16, 2012 - 09:12pm PT

Looking for some info on a route--

The problem is between the "5.11 route" in the Yabo Zone and Hueco Wall/Slap boulder. It has a tree at left and starts with the right hand on a brown ball...

Any background?

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber

I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!

Jan 16, 2012 - 10:44pm PT

"right hand on a brown ball..."

i believe that is called the Rusty Trombone.

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jan 16, 2012 - 11:16pm PT

"There is a line between Eco and Wish You Would Go":

Just to the right of Eco? That line went eons ago to Yabo on the same day he first tried Eco-Terrorist. Almost got Eco the third attempt too, but wouldn't continue because he only allowed himself three tries per problem. But he did do the route just to the right of Eco afterwards.

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 17, 2012 - 12:01am PT

Sounds about right..I thought it was a bit easier than Eco and quite obvious. I assume he started with a sit..per the beta I posted a few months ago?

Do you know anything about the line in the Yabo zone that I am asking about? I have been really enjoying a lot of the Yabo lines recently...I had never tried Yabo roof or the two problems he did between The Beak and CR proper. They were really fun!

Also, I had never gotten on Yabo Roof before...it actually climbs much better than it looks...and that mantle on top is classic. (I assume he did it with no heel...correct?)

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jan 17, 2012 - 02:10am PT

Yes, Yabo Roof without heel hook to be sure. Double mantle kinda of thing.

Don't remember about sit start on thing to right of Eco. Probably. Yabo had a whole sit-start circuit around the main Castle Rock. Would stand to reason.

drunkenmaster

Social climber

santa rosa

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2012 - 02:19am PT

not sure what 5.11 your talking about but im glad to help. if i dont reply its cuz im too busy over on facebook or sleeping :-/

drunkenmaster

Social climber

santa rosa

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2012 - 02:35am PT

and hey Bruce thanks for introducing me to facebook!

yeh right, its cost me so many hours i will never be able to replace, ever. fu - no jus kidn bro - but serios still thanks. no im frkn serious, i would have been stunted in my growth as a modern human .)

were thinking crsp tomorrow anybody down!!??

:-/

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 17, 2012 - 12:44pm PT

I miiiiight be up there today...work permitting.

The "5.11 Route" is that really short V3/4 stand with a really good sitstart. I think I saw a video of you flashing it somewhere maybe?

The line I am asking about is on the next little boulder towards Hueco Wall. I hear last night that people call the problem 'Pitt Bull' and it goes at around V8...

At any rate, it is a REALLY excellent problem. Well worth a few goes. I also cleaned up and did the sit to "Collins" last week. It adds 5 moves of really hard pulling on pretty decent crimps (except one left hand) into the stand. This must have been done before...right?

Perfect temps up there right now! We had a great day yesterday...get on it!

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 17, 2012 - 12:46pm PT

Bruce- Is that line on the garage door boulder one of Yabo's? It has a really bad landing and climbs to the right of the tree.

If you are facing that there is a V4/5 directly behind you facing downhill. I can't believe that thing doesn't get climbed more!

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jan 17, 2012 - 03:07pm PT

Yes, I spotted him when he did the Yabo dyno (V5) on the prow to the right of the standard Garage Door (V0+) so can say it definitely was one of his low-ball starts. "Now I want you to really spot me on this. It's very dangerous!"

And, yes, again, the problem on the rock behind you is definitely the Yabo V4.

Funny, I can never remember where I put my keys last night, but I can remember Yabo sit starts from 1978.

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jan 17, 2012 - 03:33pm PT

There's a Sharma Arete (V9) on the back of Indian. That's not the one you're talking about, is it? There's some more more stuff down the hill where "Asian Invasion" (V7) is located. Some aretes down there too. Don't remember. Can't do a front lever and my memory is failing!

It does sound as though that "new" area in back of Indian has gone through three distinct development cycles, maybe more. Seems like Bates showed me some of that stuff back around 1977-78 or so. Then, person or persons unknown rediscovered it and put chalk on those problems around 83-84. Then, someone above says a "crew" from Santa Cruz re-re-developed the area 10 years ago. Now, there's another group that goes down there all the time.

Every once in a while I run into some guys who live on the Skyline who've been bouldering up there for 30 years or so. If I see them, I'll ask. Every time I think I've found a new problem, they say NO NO NO. It was done years ago and now the moss has grown back. Barry Bates, Chris Sharma, Moses Potter, and Jeremy Meigs would probably know the real truth too. People have been bouldering for so long at CR-Indian it's just really hard to say who did what when. Areas keep getting rediscovered and redeveloped by each generation who hangs there. But that's not to say that there hasn't been some new boulder problems done lately that are really new.

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Joshua Tree

Jan 17, 2012 - 03:40pm PT

probably one of the first V10's without a cheat stone.

Cosgrove, when you're like 6'4", YOU are a cheat stone.

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 17, 2012 - 04:02pm PT

Bruce-It would be interesting, and I think serve the community very well if there was a comprehensive guide to the area. Between your book and Chris' there is a lot of stuff covered...but it is hardly comprehensive. (I don't mean that critically at all.) As we all know, so much of a routes history is passed on word of mouth, but there really isn't a core group of people at CR now. It is more like little pockets over a long timeline. It seems like a lot of this re-re-re-re-development confusion would stop if there was a really solid history of the area. I think about the Buttermilks and the fact that there are still FA's going up. Granted, that is a significantly more expansive area, but I think that everyone who contributes to the Bishop guidebook does a good job covering the history of problems. Hell, a good friend of mine is a Southbay local and has been climbing a ton of the old school, rarely climbed stuff at CR and Sanborn. He has done a FA in the Buttermilks and it was really interesting to see firsthand the research that went into seeing if his lines were in fact original. One wasn't, but the other, 'Makers,' was and is right smack dab in the middle of the Pollen Grains. I think it would be good to at least chart and map out all of the known boulder problems and projects and begin to piece together the history. Maybe that will be something for me to do in '12

In your book, there is only slight mention that some problems exist below Indian and a number of problems listed as projects which have actually been sent. The two big lines on the overhanging face of "Roadkill" rock certainly come to mind. Also, the sit start to Collins (or should it be coz's?) and all of the variations and linkups on PLR...Do you know that people have been doing the PLR traverse into the START of Deforestation....Thats a hard route, but very few people know that it is even a line! Am I alone in thinking that this could be a valuable resource to the local climbing community? It would certainly cut down on a lot of this confusion. I have looked at many dirty lines at CR and climbed on them, but never felt that it was right to call it an FA.

Edit:Here is a link to the problem I originally asked about. Not sure if this is the original name, but I thought it was a great line! Is this mentioned in any of the guidebooks?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qeBizzm87N8&feature=related

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Jan 17, 2012 - 04:32pm PT

Talusfeeder...

a history of the all the problems at Castle would be off the charts hard to do. not saying it shouldn't be tried, but be ready for a lot of work and a lot of confusion and misrememberances.

That Pit Bull problem is down the Yabo area. I think it's in one of the old guides, likely Bruce's.

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jan 17, 2012 - 04:38pm PT

Not sure about "Pit Bull". Looks like a real good problem though.

I know there are a bunch of new problems in the creek bottom to the north of the X-mas Tree Farm property, but have no idea about the FAs or protagonists. There's also some new stuff if you walk north from Partridge House and head toward the road to the CRSP campground. Haven't a clue about who, what, when, where or why? There's also a bunch of new problems to the south of Indian at an area called the "Tree in the Wall" with many more there too. Seen some videos of routes down there on YouTube.

A wonderful project you propose, however. But I'm sure it would never satisfy everyone simply because no one person knows about everything that's been done up there. I did a new slab boulder along the trail to the Nature Nazis and I think Michael Donovan did a 5.12 micro problem on the extreme left edge of the rock. But I'm sure of that because I did it myself!

I think members of the Pajama Gang know a lot more about the new stuff. There were problems around Mr Magoo that were already old when Bates, Kauk and Yabo were doing their thing up there in the early to mid 70s. I do know that Mike Campana was the first to do the Beak mantle and also the Swim problem because he told me so and I believe him. Who did the FA of the Spoon? Buried in the depths of time!

I think a better idea today would be a video catalog of boulder problems linked to a TOC or a map of the Park and sold on a DVD or distributed online. Could be updated and corrected online so new info could always be added as fresh details became available. The printed word is just so hard to change once it's in book form. I did know every problem at the Nature Nazis at one time simply because Dave Caunt and myself did everything there in one stretch of time. However, now there are a bunch of new ones there and the number continues to grow. I personally like the idea of a video of each problem linked with an interactive map. To really document CRSP and environs accurately would require a project as big as the Fontainbleau guidebook. Lots of luck!

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Joshua Tree

Jan 17, 2012 - 04:50pm PT

I've never had a climb remain unrepeated due to reach,

Uh, G-String ring a bell?

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jan 17, 2012 - 04:56pm PT

You did Asian Invasion? I believe that. Those problems used to sit down there and nobody ever visited them. There's now a new arete just to the left of Asian Invasion, which has been down rated to V6. The new arete is said to be V7 though. Bates must have told me there was new stuff to do down there and I took you down to see what could be done.

Here's Michael Donovan on the new V7 mantle problem to the left of "Asian Invasion":

Correct me if I'm wrong, Coz, but I think J. Collins did the Collins Problem on the PLR when it had comparatively big holds on the power pull start. Then, they broke off & altered the route and made it significantly harder. You must have done the first "hard" ascent of the Collins when the edges were tiny, tiny crimpers, which have stayed that way - almost - ever since. But a sit start to the Collins? Wow!

Looks like someone may have done a sit start to the Caunt Power Pull on the back of the big Nature Nazi boulder too. If so, again wow! Know that Sharma was messing around with that variation, so it may have gone years ago, but someone told me he couldn't send it. Never know unless you were there!

Seems like V9s used to be almost the top of the scale up at Castle in the 80s and 90s and now have become more or less commonplace when everyone is shooting for bona fide double digit boulder problems. Seems as though whenever a classic gets to be a common send, it gets down rated one grade too. Yesterday's V7s are now rated V6. Same old, same old. The rare and the exceptional have now become commonplace as climbers get better and standards go up.

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 17, 2012 - 05:41pm PT

I agree that a concrete history would be quite an undertaking.

I am going to compile a list of all known boulder problems and variations with their common name, not necessarily their given name, as many were not even named and graded by the FA. Over time I will include info on each area and hopefully a little bit of history too. One area that I am VERY interested in learning the history of is the Muffins. Why are there bolts on those boulder problems? It is odd to me that these beautiful, clean faces over good landings were bolted while the Klinghoffer highballs remain boltless.

This will create a forum for climbers to input any information they have on the history of an area and also to look back and see if their 'FA' is really.

The sit to Collins is quite hard...V12 maybe? It is actually some decent pulling once you are off the ground. The sit start to Caunt Power Pull is pretty cool too. V8ish I think. I know there are at least two sit starts to 'Groundation' now as well as the obvious start to 'Static Reach.' I am looking in your guide right now Bruce and it looks like you have a "V0 Mantle" listed as the only problem on the boulder where 'Pitt Bull' is. The 5.11 lieback on the boulder next store has two sit starts on it that make a couple of really legitimate, quality lines.

I have climbed at the Tree in the Wall area and a couple of the outlying areas around Goat rock. I find it really hard to believe that that stuff is really 'new' though.

dfinnecy

Social climber

'stralia

Jan 17, 2012 - 06:31pm PT

Documenting boulder problems highlights the absurdity of this sport we all know and love

Reminds me of this bit from Garden State

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jan 17, 2012 - 07:04pm PT

I can't tell the history of the Klinghoffers because I wasn't there in the late 80s to watch the action. But if you go up there you'll see there are ancient bolts on top of the tallest Klinghoffer; Star bolts, so they probably date from the early 60s. There was an old bolt ladder up the tallest of the Klinghoffers too. But it was chopped ages ago too.

I think Caunt drilled the bolts up the tallest of the Muffins ground up with a now prohibited power drill; mostly just to get on top and install the anchors for the 5.12/13 crack. The little Muffins were done just because they were there. Totally unrelated to the crew over at the Klinghoffers. I TRed the crack, but the other day I saw a guy taking big falls until he got it as a boulder problem.

Incidentally, there's some really, really high-standard boulder problems up a pocketed face just behind the anchors for Clamydia that haven't gone yet. I mean really hard, but if someone's got the crimp strength the holds are there.

Those routes near Goat were all done in the late 80s by the same group that did the Klinghoffers: Dave Caunt, Rich Vetter, Elliott Robinson, Scott Cosgrove, Rick Harlan, and Kim Dao to name a few. Lots of them out there with very little traffic today. Back then they were the latest rage and everyone went there after work and after school. Now, little known, less traveled today.

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Jan 17, 2012 - 07:51pm PT

I saw a guy taking big falls until he got it as a boulder problem.

I did that crack with a pad too and thought it was highly appropriate. A couple friends and I have done all of the Muffin routes with a pad and it seems like it is just so much more natural for those routes.

I have done that TR on the backside of Clamydia boulder and messed around on some of the lines on either side. Really cool, but a little crusty in parts.

I didn't know about the bolt ladder at the Klinghoffers. I have seen the bolts on top..I have no issues with those, i'm just glad that there aren't bolts on the face's anymore. I think those highballs are fantastic...I am always encouraging people to go and check the area out.

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jan 18, 2012 - 12:45am PT

I wasn't talking about the Coz problem with the separate anchors on the back side of Clamydia. There are a bunch of potential new boulder problems to do further east on a rising wall with pockets. It's a little above the first switch back on the descent trail back down to the creek from the Clamydia anchors. Never seen chalk there. Tiny bit of cleaning needed up high. Like a breaking wave of pebbles about 15ft high. Fingers of steel no doubt.

Actually, Talus, if you go snooping around Castle in the hidden grottoes and nooks you'll discover evidence of plenty of old Star-drive bolts up blank faces. I think in the late 50s and early 60s there were people doing A1 ladders up every available blank face in the Park and elsewhere along the Skyline too. Seems as though there was a 'revolution' at some point in time afterwards and some people made an effort to remove all the old ladders (but not necessarily the anchor bolts). But you can still see traces of them on Platypus, Shady Rock, Klinghoffers, Indian Rock, Cal Cliff, Tower of Pain etc. etc. There have to be more lurking around out there in remote locations. Today all you see are a few scars where they used to be and perhaps a bent over hanger or two with Star heads sticking out. Unrecorded rock history, but at some point in the dim past there was a revolt again A1 bolt ladders at Castle and a bunch of 'chopping parties'.

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Feb 20, 2012 - 11:36pm PT

Bruce,

CAUTION- SPRAY ALERT

I had a few days up at Castle in the past couple weeks and actually roped up and did some of the obscure topropes scattered about. I did the backside of the Clamydia anchors again...It was pretty bad-holds breaking all over the place.

I was also able to finish the .13 on Billy Goat. I stayed left of the line of 1/4" bolts up to the finishing mini-prow. It is actually a pretty cool little line! I did a sort of variation/eliminate that goes straight up the bolt line from the big indentation near the start and tends right-you have to avoid the crack out right though-felt like a hard .13b...is there an existing route here?

Also checked out some stuff on the left corner of the boulder that 'Sunset Arete' is on at Last Temptation. I had a sketchy line setup slung on those trees and the anchor for sunset. This route would be quite hard and is very sustained right off the ground. I don't think it is really topropable with the given anchors but there is a possibility to pad the landing. Could be a cool V7/8. Also hopped on Sunset Arete for the first time. A bit of a one move wonder but I was able to get pumped doing some laps up and down it. It's one of the few routes at Castle that is actually down-climbable.

I was also able to finally finish up the right finish on the 'Roadkill' boulder. Climb the crack from a sit, make your way over to the large hueco on the overhanging face and use some trickery (and extra sticky rubber) to get over the lip. This thing actually climbs pretty well but is VERY reachy. I am 5'10- and was totally tipped out on it.

My question for you is-are there any other hard routes around here? I know there is 'Going Down Fast' in Aquarian Valley, but I am never too psyched to walk out to that area. I did one tall boulder problem on the way out to that area which was quite hard but also on kind of bad holds. What is 'Going Down Fast' like?

Do you know of any other hard roped routes or roped 'Projects.' I have done everything in your guidebook that was listed as a .13 project-some are a little soft. They just might fill in that .12c/d void at Castle...I think the muffin monster is .12c and the route on BIlly Goat felt .12d...

Hopefully you have some hidden gems out there!

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Feb 21, 2012 - 12:37am PT

Think the uncompleted route out the roof to the right of "Full of Hatred" (5.11d) might fill the bill for hard & uncompleted routes at Castle. On the N. side of the Waterfall, across the creek. There's a bolt installed for a back-rope to hold you in place if you fall out at the lip. Anchors above too. It's too tall to fall. The belayer has to manage the belay rope and the back rope at the same time, unless you've got a party of three. Bet it's 5.13 for sure.

The Partridge House is right next to the other entrance at CRSP leading to Goat Rock. I've never seen that stuff myself, but have heard it's there. Have to go to Partridge House (Ranger's Residence) and walk boldly N. toward the dirt road to the CR Campground. Lots and lots of territory out there sandwiched between the Skyline and the forbidden Valley of Stone/so-called Lion Caves. Think Michael Donovan knows where that creek bottom is with the new routes up an arete. Haven't been there either but saw some pics so it must be true. Mark Swank has found some new stuff too. Don't know where.

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber

I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!

Feb 21, 2012 - 03:40am PT

you need to get out to the green monster,

there is even a vine climb or two,

bring a loin cloth for that one,

leave early and travel fast, turn around once in a while, take a radio,

die young,

dfinnecy

Social climber

'stralia

Feb 21, 2012 - 06:24am PT

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Anyone know what the name of this problem is?
I used to do it back in the mid 90s and called it Elephant Butt, cause the top out was like gettin up on top of an elephant's butt. Or like I imagined it might be to climb up to a mantle on an elephant's butt. I've never been on top of an elephant so I can't say.

A few weeks back I got in a short session up there, damn CRSP bouldering is fantastic. Something about that friction,...

Edit: Seriously!? v7?

Talusfeeder

Social climber

Here

Feb 21, 2012 - 10:28am PT

I think that is the classic "5.11 Route." It miiiiiight be V7 from the sit around right. There is a really cool toe hook when you do the sit. This route, the sit start to the right in front of the tree and "Pittbull" on the adjacent boulder all feel about the same grade. Hard to tell on Pittbull-I was flailing on it but sent it fitst time I tried the knee scum...

Anyway-It is a really cool problem and makes for a fun eliminate too.

There is also the big main Yabo rock just uphill from these- If you are looking at the face there is a mantle/slab prob around the right side. Aside from the awful landing it is a great, tall V2 for the area!

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Nov 5, 2012 - 05:24pm PT

As far as Castle Rock history is concerned, I learned yesterday from Elliott Robinson that it was in fact Kurt Smith who did the FA of the Klinghoffer Traverse boulder problem to the Man Overboard finish way back in the day during the early 80s. Again, that's word of mouth, but it stands to reason that Dave Caunt would have taken Kurt there to finish the traverse with a high ending when no one else was willing to take the risk. I'd heard from Dave that Kim Dao was the one who added the hard start to the beginning of the Klinghoffer traverse. But it now sounds like Kurt Smith was the first to put the whole traverse with the nasty high-ball ending together in one push.

But who really knows? We're talking about memories that are now over 30 years old!