castle rock state park - bouldering beta

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 58 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Adamame

Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
Jan 27, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
That stuff below Indian Rock is nothing new. A Santa Cruz crew did many of those problems over ten years ago, but I haven't been there since and it was not our style to name things or even care about grades. I would love to check it out again now that I am recovered from a trad phase. Castle Rock is so funny with FAs as you never know who was there due to the moss factor. When Chris and I scrubbed the Eco Terrorist we had no clue Yabo had done the same years before. Now the real eco terrorist is how much we have eroded the landing not the moss removal.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 27, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
I would love to check it out again now that I am recovered from a trad phase.

Whoa bro, there's a long road to recovery. Diligent 12-steps will be on the menu.
Adamame

Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
Jan 27, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
I may never recover, but for now I will attempt to climb with the bolts and pad people once again.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jan 27, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
Scrubbing beta - please don't go out and make huge white streaks!
I'm not saying you should or shouldn't clean but if you do, then do it right. Blend it in and spread it out so it looks more natural and not just white patches right next to thick moss. That sh#t grows back so quickly....

kev
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Jan 28, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
I don't think that boulder problem's name is Asian Invasion. Moses Potter did it a long time ago- like 7 years. I did it about 6 years ago. I called it Moses Bulge but he probably thought of a better name.
Adamame

Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
Jan 28, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
James, this is such a common case at Castle. Our crew just never gave a crap about names, grade, ego, or even telling anyone what we did. We were all just having a good time in the park then came West Coast Pimp and Rampage. Castle Rock the land of ReFA's.
Talusfeeder

Social climber
Here
Feb 7, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
That stuff below Indian Rock is nothing new.

No one claimed that any of those problems were new, I was just pointing them out to DM...I fully realize that that stuff is all ran through, and it was actually Moses who gave me the tip for most of that stuff...

I have mentioned a couple problems to Moses and Bruce that they never new about. Not for ego sake, but just to figure out if the stone had any history...I think that tends to be okay.

Our crew just never gave a crap about names, grade, ego, or even telling anyone what we did.

This is the sort of veiled ego that creates tension in the community...The way this statement comes off is overflowing with a self righteous lack of humility. I completely assume that this is NOT your intention, but people like Moses really demonstrate actual humility...he won't even bring up any of this stuff if you were claiming FA's of all of his problems right in front of him.

Here is the info I have of problems that either I or people I know cleaned and climbed...Im not claiming FA's or anything..but none of these are in any guidebook I have seen.

I think that is pretty obvious that I went into this conversation realizing that while many of these lumps haven't been touched in the past 15 years, more than likely they have been ridden before...I was simply pointing out where there were problems that Chris may have not known about, and what we call them (rather than 'that crusty boulder by the tree' or 'that boulder with the crappy slopers') And grades, so he can figure out what he feels like doing difficulty wise....

No harm in that, right?
Talusfeeder

Social climber
Here
Feb 7, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
don't think that boulder problem's name is Asian Invasion. Moses Potter did it a long time ago- like 7 years. I did it about 6 years ago. I called it Moses Bulge but he probably thought of a better name.

I don't know what it's called, ill check it's micro chip next time i'm down there...this is a name Iheard someone else calling it...it sure works better than "that thing with the edges and sloper down the hill....no, to the left....no...on the other boulder...."

I don't think how we refer to problems is a big deal, it would be lame though if I came up and said I found, cleaned and popped this problem..and named it whatever...

Talusfeeder

Social climber
Here
Jan 16, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
Looking for some info on a route--

The problem is between the "5.11 route" in the Yabo Zone and Hueco Wall/Slap boulder. It has a tree at left and starts with the right hand on a brown ball...

Any background?
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Jan 16, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
"right hand on a brown ball..."


i believe that is called the Rusty Trombone.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jan 16, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
"There is a line between Eco and Wish You Would Go":

Just to the right of Eco? That line went eons ago to Yabo on the same day he first tried Eco-Terrorist. Almost got Eco the third attempt too, but wouldn't continue because he only allowed himself three tries per problem. But he did do the route just to the right of Eco afterwards.
Talusfeeder

Social climber
Here
Jan 17, 2012 - 12:01am PT
Sounds about right..I thought it was a bit easier than Eco and quite obvious. I assume he started with a sit..per the beta I posted a few months ago?

Do you know anything about the line in the Yabo zone that I am asking about? I have been really enjoying a lot of the Yabo lines recently...I had never tried Yabo roof or the two problems he did between The Beak and CR proper. They were really fun!

Also, I had never gotten on Yabo Roof before...it actually climbs much better than it looks...and that mantle on top is classic. (I assume he did it with no heel...correct?)
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jan 17, 2012 - 02:10am PT
Yes, Yabo Roof without heel hook to be sure. Double mantle kinda of thing.

Don't remember about sit start on thing to right of Eco. Probably. Yabo had a whole sit-start circuit around the main Castle Rock. Would stand to reason.
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2012 - 02:19am PT
not sure what 5.11 your talking about but im glad to help. if i dont reply its cuz im too busy over on facebook or sleeping :-/
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2012 - 02:35am PT
and hey Bruce thanks for introducing me to facebook!

yeh right, its cost me so many hours i will never be able to replace, ever. fu - no jus kidn bro - but serios still thanks. no im frkn serious, i would have been stunted in my growth as a modern human .)

were thinking crsp tomorrow anybody down!!??


:-/
Talusfeeder

Social climber
Here
Jan 17, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
I miiiiight be up there today...work permitting.

The "5.11 Route" is that really short V3/4 stand with a really good sitstart. I think I saw a video of you flashing it somewhere maybe?

The line I am asking about is on the next little boulder towards Hueco Wall. I hear last night that people call the problem 'Pitt Bull' and it goes at around V8...

At any rate, it is a REALLY excellent problem. Well worth a few goes. I also cleaned up and did the sit to "Collins" last week. It adds 5 moves of really hard pulling on pretty decent crimps (except one left hand) into the stand. This must have been done before...right?

Perfect temps up there right now! We had a great day yesterday...get on it!
Talusfeeder

Social climber
Here
Jan 17, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
Bruce- Is that line on the garage door boulder one of Yabo's? It has a really bad landing and climbs to the right of the tree.

If you are facing that there is a V4/5 directly behind you facing downhill. I can't believe that thing doesn't get climbed more!
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jan 17, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
Yes, I spotted him when he did the Yabo dyno (V5) on the prow to the right of the standard Garage Door (V0+) so can say it definitely was one of his low-ball starts. "Now I want you to really spot me on this. It's very dangerous!"

And, yes, again, the problem on the rock behind you is definitely the Yabo V4.

Funny, I can never remember where I put my keys last night, but I can remember Yabo sit starts from 1978.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jan 17, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
There's a Sharma Arete (V9) on the back of Indian. That's not the one you're talking about, is it? There's some more more stuff down the hill where "Asian Invasion" (V7) is located. Some aretes down there too. Don't remember. Can't do a front lever and my memory is failing!

It does sound as though that "new" area in back of Indian has gone through three distinct development cycles, maybe more. Seems like Bates showed me some of that stuff back around 1977-78 or so. Then, person or persons unknown rediscovered it and put chalk on those problems around 83-84. Then, someone above says a "crew" from Santa Cruz re-re-developed the area 10 years ago. Now, there's another group that goes down there all the time.

Every once in a while I run into some guys who live on the Skyline who've been bouldering up there for 30 years or so. If I see them, I'll ask. Every time I think I've found a new problem, they say NO NO NO. It was done years ago and now the moss has grown back. Barry Bates, Chris Sharma, Moses Potter, and Jeremy Meigs would probably know the real truth too. People have been bouldering for so long at CR-Indian it's just really hard to say who did what when. Areas keep getting rediscovered and redeveloped by each generation who hangs there. But that's not to say that there hasn't been some new boulder problems done lately that are really new.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jan 17, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
probably one of the first V10's without a cheat stone.

Cosgrove, when you're like 6'4", YOU are a cheat stone.

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