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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
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I haven't done it YET. My goal is to do it this summer, then do it every summer (at least once) until I can't haul my carcass around any longer.
It's beautiful to look at, scrumptous to read about and by all accounts, it is the best climb in California if not the Whole Wide World.
I would love to see some photos and hear some stories about this Rock Climb Icon of perfection.
Thanks in advance! :)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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It's a mega classic, great position, great rock, unbelievable last pitch. I'm sorry I have no pics!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Lot of fun and I thought decently stressful too. It seemed like all the spots that had sparse pro also had terrible falls. That little roof thing was plenty exciting, especially looking at the pillar that you're going to swing into if you whip.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Outside of Yosemite, I haven't gotten to climb much Sierra granite. This looks like a prize. I suck at approaches because of my feet. What's the beta? Donini, want to drag me up the thing?
Mal
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Ain't no flatlander
climber
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Absolutely a must-do climb! Easily one of the greatest routes of all time. Just do it, and do it, and do it again.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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Beautiful photos!
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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What a great route. I climbed it a couple years ago and need to go back again for a repeat.
The views from the route are nice too.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Looks like it would be an interesting place to be during a quake. Geologicaly speaking, does the fractured rock lend stability or instability?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mal, you would eat it up but the approach is a bit long. Fun, but the best climb in Cali- don't think so.
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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I have heard of it but never looked up until now! Wow!
Prod.
PS Rascles?
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North
climber
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To reiterate what others have said---go do it. Everything about it is fantastic, the approach is beautiful, the decent down the gully to climb out is scary, the view spectacular, the top-out classic and inspiring.
Careful on that descent though. It is loose, sandy, and will not tolerate a fall from any point. Others will say it isn't a big deal, but just be careful. The route is worth it.
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hossjulia
Social climber
Eastside
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The main reason I have not been on this route is the approach. Not sure my knee, or nerves, can handle that downclimb to the base. I'd just as soon ski the gully. (More like side slip)But that's too much gear.
Hopefully after a few months of road biking my knee will be able to handle it, I have been staring at this beauty for 14 years and would not be happy if I die without having done it.
So it is on my tick list for this summer. Need any equally gimpy partner though because I HATE to hold anyone up. I get up early anyway.
I'm not slow climbing, just going downhill.
Funny story.
Met a cyclist in Lower LV Campground once who had just come over the pass from Yosemite. He was trashed and weary. So I go up to see if he needs anything, like water, and find he is French. His English is not great, but I slowly realize that he is so dispirted because he did not know California had any mountains. The Third Pillar is in plain view, so he points up to it and asks, how high/how hard? I tell him close to 4,000m and 5.10 and he starts smacking himself on the head, repeatedly. You no understand he says at my alarmed look, I am mountain guide from Chamonix!
He knew about Yosemite but had come over for a bike tour of California. He had NO IDEA about the Sierra. How could that be? I guess if you are born in Chamonix and are one of the guides there, you have no reason to think there are better, or simliar mountains anywhere else?
I had to walk away and leave him to his misery (I have no gear he says, how stupid I am.) before I bust a gut at the irony.
Hopefully he came back and climbed it.
edited to add: oh yes, cragman WILL run you over if you get in his way on the road, watch out, he drives WAY too fast! 22 minutes from your house to the parking. That's absurd. It's 15-20 just to Lee Vining at speed limit, and another 15 up the pass. What do yo do, like 80+ the whole way?
You know you are breaking the law when you speed, thus you are breaking one of the ten commandments. Food for thought. And I am sick of seeing you speeding around, passing unsafely and threatening others.
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North
climber
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Hossjulia,
I feel the same about that approach. If you ever need a partner, lemme know. I did the route last year for the first time. No worries about speedy ascents, just safe, fun ones are all that matter.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Donini and cragman, you guys should carry me in when the hike shuts me down. What's your schedule look like?
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Had a great time on the third. Met The Gambler a few days earlier. After topping out I was overwhelmed in that high Alpine beauty. I need to get back into my old computer for pics but.....Ummm I think we've got the anchor covered eh?
edit.....of course like most we 'topped out before the climb/rapped the butress..but at that time didn't have the mind to enjoy that beauty.
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Don't let Donini see that anchor,
I like it, there is a wired placement not even clipped in, perfect'
Oh yeah, the climb and the setting is classic, need to do it again
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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May 10, 2010 - 12:35am PT
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This has got to be the best multipitch 5.10 on the east side of the Sierras- one of the best anywhere!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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May 10, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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I have wanted to taste that fine route since I was in High School. For me though, its like wanting to play at Augusta National and being a 90's golfer. I really, really, really want to do that route but 5.10 is a stretch for me. Someday........
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