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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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It's good, but really only the last pitch. The other pitches are not very interesting, in my view. It does look kind of cool from the approach, but that doesn't really translate into interesting climbing.
It's not as good as Directissima at the Gunks, the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, Serenity & Sons, or Nutracker, for example. I've done those many more times than 3rd Pillar.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 12:55am PT
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Really not good? Someone told me a year or so ago it was...(edit: thought it was Malcolm, but obviously not). Who was that? that it was the best climb EVER. There aren't any bolts on it, right? Are the belay stations bolted?
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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May 10, 2010 - 01:36am PT
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I don't think there are any bolted belays.
It's a beautiful route in a beautiful setting, and the climbing is fun. The pitches vary a lot, but the last one is not the only interesting pitch. And the route was more fun for me than EB of Middle. OTOH I rarely climb in the valley when Tioga Pass Road is open.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 10:19am PT
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The Third Pillar is an awesome route. Great climbing and fantastic position. I think this route is higher quality than the routes I've done in Frey. No need to fly 7,000 miles for the best stuff...just hop in your car and go.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 10:23am PT
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I'm kinda blown away by the accolades the Third Pillar is getting- it's certainly a quality route but it's too discontinuous to be the world class route people are proposing.
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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May 10, 2010 - 10:28am PT
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As far as the best climb in CA, at least in the high Sierra, I would vote for the Red Dihedral on the Hulk. It would rank as one of the best alpine rock climbs anywhere.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 10:33am PT
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The best multi-pitch 5.10 in America is the Scenic Cruise in the Black Canyon.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 10, 2010 - 10:39am PT
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It was Leversee who called (in a video)the last pitch, the best 5.9 in the world.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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May 10, 2010 - 10:50am PT
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RE: Scenic Cruise. Easy Jim, remember to mention the head-high poison ivy, the teetering death blocks in the gully and the blood thirsty dragon at the base that goes crazy when he sees a Prana beanie.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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May 10, 2010 - 10:53am PT
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Hey Hossjulia, I'm with you had "the cragman" almost kill me and my family during a trip south a few years back. He passed me on a blind double yellow curve near lone pine during thanksgiving traffic, cut me off to make it in the lane just before a head on! How did I know it was him? Green Dodge truck with "cragman" license. Hey Cragman SLOW DOWN KOOK!!!!
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miss.julienne
climber
Capitola, California
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May 10, 2010 - 10:53am PT
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Nice anchor??
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 10:55am PT
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Phil did the FA. Major props. Love ya my dear. Great times to come.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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May 10, 2010 - 11:13am PT
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Hey Pennsylenvy, Great pic of Johnny Rotten (still miss ya dude).
So JIm, No way the Scenic Cruise is the best multipitch 5.10ish climb in the US, the Kor-Dahlke Cruise is.
So is this 3rd pillar thangy as good as y'all sez? Should I gear up for it?
Can Mal and I ride Roust-a-bouts all the way in?
Nice thread CrimpStar.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 11:26am PT
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Hey Philo, it's all that and a little more. I've spent a fair amount of time climbing in the Sierra's, and this has to be one of my favorites. I wouldn't call it extreme full value, but all combined: approach, climb, scenery, and walk out, makes for a fun day.
I'd highly recommend!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 10, 2010 - 11:28am PT
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Yeah Penn, I love seeing pictures of the Gambler I haven't seen before. John was the friendliest little "Hulk" there ever was, I miss him (along with all of the numerous friends he made all over the west).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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Philo, the Dunn Cruise- he free climbed it. They're both great!
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jopay
climber
so.il
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May 10, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
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So being as how we are comparing great Alpine Routes with exposure and great views how does the Casual Route compare to TPOD?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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The Casual Route is in a FAR more alpine setting than Dana.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
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Forgot to add capping the day off with Fish Taco's from Tioga Toomey's. MMmmmmm Yum!
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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May 10, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
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It's good, but really only the last pitch. The other pitches are not very interesting, in my view. It does look kind of cool from the approach, but that doesn't really translate into interesting climbing.
Clint,
try some of the unlisted variations. The climbing gets much more interesting, and challenging, very quickly. I view the 3rd Pillar as kind of a choose your own adventure: you can find other paths to the top, rather than the commonly trodden pitches...
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