Discussion Topic |
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Messages 1 - 104 of total 104 in this topic |
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
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I haven't done it YET. My goal is to do it this summer, then do it every summer (at least once) until I can't haul my carcass around any longer.
It's beautiful to look at, scrumptous to read about and by all accounts, it is the best climb in California if not the Whole Wide World.
I would love to see some photos and hear some stories about this Rock Climb Icon of perfection.
Thanks in advance! :)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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It's a mega classic, great position, great rock, unbelievable last pitch. I'm sorry I have no pics!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Lot of fun and I thought decently stressful too. It seemed like all the spots that had sparse pro also had terrible falls. That little roof thing was plenty exciting, especially looking at the pillar that you're going to swing into if you whip.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Outside of Yosemite, I haven't gotten to climb much Sierra granite. This looks like a prize. I suck at approaches because of my feet. What's the beta? Donini, want to drag me up the thing?
Mal
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Ain't no flatlander
climber
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Absolutely a must-do climb! Easily one of the greatest routes of all time. Just do it, and do it, and do it again.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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Beautiful photos!
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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What a great route. I climbed it a couple years ago and need to go back again for a repeat.
The views from the route are nice too.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Looks like it would be an interesting place to be during a quake. Geologicaly speaking, does the fractured rock lend stability or instability?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mal, you would eat it up but the approach is a bit long. Fun, but the best climb in Cali- don't think so.
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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I have heard of it but never looked up until now! Wow!
Prod.
PS Rascles?
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North
climber
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To reiterate what others have said---go do it. Everything about it is fantastic, the approach is beautiful, the decent down the gully to climb out is scary, the view spectacular, the top-out classic and inspiring.
Careful on that descent though. It is loose, sandy, and will not tolerate a fall from any point. Others will say it isn't a big deal, but just be careful. The route is worth it.
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hossjulia
Social climber
Eastside
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The main reason I have not been on this route is the approach. Not sure my knee, or nerves, can handle that downclimb to the base. I'd just as soon ski the gully. (More like side slip)But that's too much gear.
Hopefully after a few months of road biking my knee will be able to handle it, I have been staring at this beauty for 14 years and would not be happy if I die without having done it.
So it is on my tick list for this summer. Need any equally gimpy partner though because I HATE to hold anyone up. I get up early anyway.
I'm not slow climbing, just going downhill.
Funny story.
Met a cyclist in Lower LV Campground once who had just come over the pass from Yosemite. He was trashed and weary. So I go up to see if he needs anything, like water, and find he is French. His English is not great, but I slowly realize that he is so dispirted because he did not know California had any mountains. The Third Pillar is in plain view, so he points up to it and asks, how high/how hard? I tell him close to 4,000m and 5.10 and he starts smacking himself on the head, repeatedly. You no understand he says at my alarmed look, I am mountain guide from Chamonix!
He knew about Yosemite but had come over for a bike tour of California. He had NO IDEA about the Sierra. How could that be? I guess if you are born in Chamonix and are one of the guides there, you have no reason to think there are better, or simliar mountains anywhere else?
I had to walk away and leave him to his misery (I have no gear he says, how stupid I am.) before I bust a gut at the irony.
Hopefully he came back and climbed it.
edited to add: oh yes, cragman WILL run you over if you get in his way on the road, watch out, he drives WAY too fast! 22 minutes from your house to the parking. That's absurd. It's 15-20 just to Lee Vining at speed limit, and another 15 up the pass. What do yo do, like 80+ the whole way?
You know you are breaking the law when you speed, thus you are breaking one of the ten commandments. Food for thought. And I am sick of seeing you speeding around, passing unsafely and threatening others.
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North
climber
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Hossjulia,
I feel the same about that approach. If you ever need a partner, lemme know. I did the route last year for the first time. No worries about speedy ascents, just safe, fun ones are all that matter.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Donini and cragman, you guys should carry me in when the hike shuts me down. What's your schedule look like?
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Had a great time on the third. Met The Gambler a few days earlier. After topping out I was overwhelmed in that high Alpine beauty. I need to get back into my old computer for pics but.....Ummm I think we've got the anchor covered eh?
edit.....of course like most we 'topped out before the climb/rapped the butress..but at that time didn't have the mind to enjoy that beauty.
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Don't let Donini see that anchor,
I like it, there is a wired placement not even clipped in, perfect'
Oh yeah, the climb and the setting is classic, need to do it again
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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May 10, 2010 - 12:35am PT
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This has got to be the best multipitch 5.10 on the east side of the Sierras- one of the best anywhere!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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May 10, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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I have wanted to taste that fine route since I was in High School. For me though, its like wanting to play at Augusta National and being a 90's golfer. I really, really, really want to do that route but 5.10 is a stretch for me. Someday........
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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It's good, but really only the last pitch. The other pitches are not very interesting, in my view. It does look kind of cool from the approach, but that doesn't really translate into interesting climbing.
It's not as good as Directissima at the Gunks, the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, Serenity & Sons, or Nutracker, for example. I've done those many more times than 3rd Pillar.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 12:55am PT
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Really not good? Someone told me a year or so ago it was...(edit: thought it was Malcolm, but obviously not). Who was that? that it was the best climb EVER. There aren't any bolts on it, right? Are the belay stations bolted?
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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May 10, 2010 - 01:36am PT
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I don't think there are any bolted belays.
It's a beautiful route in a beautiful setting, and the climbing is fun. The pitches vary a lot, but the last one is not the only interesting pitch. And the route was more fun for me than EB of Middle. OTOH I rarely climb in the valley when Tioga Pass Road is open.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 10:19am PT
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The Third Pillar is an awesome route. Great climbing and fantastic position. I think this route is higher quality than the routes I've done in Frey. No need to fly 7,000 miles for the best stuff...just hop in your car and go.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 10:23am PT
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I'm kinda blown away by the accolades the Third Pillar is getting- it's certainly a quality route but it's too discontinuous to be the world class route people are proposing.
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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May 10, 2010 - 10:28am PT
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As far as the best climb in CA, at least in the high Sierra, I would vote for the Red Dihedral on the Hulk. It would rank as one of the best alpine rock climbs anywhere.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 10:33am PT
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The best multi-pitch 5.10 in America is the Scenic Cruise in the Black Canyon.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 10, 2010 - 10:39am PT
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It was Leversee who called (in a video)the last pitch, the best 5.9 in the world.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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May 10, 2010 - 10:50am PT
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RE: Scenic Cruise. Easy Jim, remember to mention the head-high poison ivy, the teetering death blocks in the gully and the blood thirsty dragon at the base that goes crazy when he sees a Prana beanie.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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May 10, 2010 - 10:53am PT
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Hey Hossjulia, I'm with you had "the cragman" almost kill me and my family during a trip south a few years back. He passed me on a blind double yellow curve near lone pine during thanksgiving traffic, cut me off to make it in the lane just before a head on! How did I know it was him? Green Dodge truck with "cragman" license. Hey Cragman SLOW DOWN KOOK!!!!
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miss.julienne
climber
Capitola, California
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May 10, 2010 - 10:53am PT
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Nice anchor??
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 10:55am PT
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Phil did the FA. Major props. Love ya my dear. Great times to come.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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May 10, 2010 - 11:13am PT
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Hey Pennsylenvy, Great pic of Johnny Rotten (still miss ya dude).
So JIm, No way the Scenic Cruise is the best multipitch 5.10ish climb in the US, the Kor-Dahlke Cruise is.
So is this 3rd pillar thangy as good as y'all sez? Should I gear up for it?
Can Mal and I ride Roust-a-bouts all the way in?
Nice thread CrimpStar.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 11:26am PT
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Hey Philo, it's all that and a little more. I've spent a fair amount of time climbing in the Sierra's, and this has to be one of my favorites. I wouldn't call it extreme full value, but all combined: approach, climb, scenery, and walk out, makes for a fun day.
I'd highly recommend!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 10, 2010 - 11:28am PT
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Yeah Penn, I love seeing pictures of the Gambler I haven't seen before. John was the friendliest little "Hulk" there ever was, I miss him (along with all of the numerous friends he made all over the west).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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Philo, the Dunn Cruise- he free climbed it. They're both great!
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jopay
climber
so.il
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May 10, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
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So being as how we are comparing great Alpine Routes with exposure and great views how does the Casual Route compare to TPOD?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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The Casual Route is in a FAR more alpine setting than Dana.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
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Forgot to add capping the day off with Fish Taco's from Tioga Toomey's. MMmmmmm Yum!
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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May 10, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
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It's good, but really only the last pitch. The other pitches are not very interesting, in my view. It does look kind of cool from the approach, but that doesn't really translate into interesting climbing.
Clint,
try some of the unlisted variations. The climbing gets much more interesting, and challenging, very quickly. I view the 3rd Pillar as kind of a choose your own adventure: you can find other paths to the top, rather than the commonly trodden pitches...
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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May 10, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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May 10, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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Just make sure to rock-paper-scissors for the last pitch ;-)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
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Mmmmm Fish tacos Mmmmmm!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 10, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
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My guess is that a 5.8+/5.9 leader would be very sorry to attempt to lead this route but might have a gas following it with a good leader. There are consequences to falls in places that are tricky, routefinding is tricky, and even the descent to the base is sketchy.
If you know your stuff, awesome and beautiful. Note: Seems to start out warmish in the sun and get colder than you expect in the afternoon.
peace
Karl
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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> try some of the unlisted variations. The climbing gets much more interesting, and challenging, very quickly.
Good point. I have done the lower/middle part on the far right and far left, but the middle way there is 5.10 and looks like it has some good parts. I guess I was just not feeling that strong the 2x I've done it.
> I view the 3rd Pillar as kind of a choose your own adventure: you can find other paths to the top, rather than the commonly trodden pitches...
After Six is similar, I suppose.
When I think of really compelling routes, they only have one way up, like a single crack or line of face holds with blankness [or much higher difficulty] to either side.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
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I absolutely love the Third Pillar- I have, and will continue to climb it over and over and over again.
That said- I agree with Jim and the rest that this is hardly the best multi-pitch in Cali. In the top 10 maybe, and definitely in the top 5 'multi-pitch, alpine granite, 5.10 routes in Cali'.
Red Dihedral, Positive Vibes on the Hulk, and Western Front on Russell are all dramatically superior.
The snow field will be in full effect this year on the approach- have fun!
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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May 10, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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The Scenic in the Black is my personal favorite, but the rock is not as good as on the Red Dihedral, or the 3rd Pillar.
Mugs Stump once told me that he thought the Casual Route was one of the couple of best rock climbs he ever did.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 10, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
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Hi Cragman
edited my post as well.
PEace
Karl
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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May 10, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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oatmeal stout.
warm and golden sierra granite.
a slight breeze.
sounds pretty nice.
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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May 11, 2010 - 09:18am PT
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The Third Pillar of Dana is way better than the Scenic Cruise. First off, the Scenic Cruise has no beautiful approach hike to get the blood circulating. No alpine flowers awaiting the morning sun... no race against the afternoon storm...
Then there's the poison ivy. And the loose rock. The altitude is so low it doesn't even feel like real climbing. The occasional Coors Light can tossed by some western slope redneck going tink...tink...tink...down the face. The guardrail at the summit. The oppressive heat.
Sure, the Scenic Cruise is longer and has more difficult pitches. But you can climb more hard pitches in a Saturday afternoon at the Boulder Rock Club. The question is, which climb speaks to the spirit of an Alpinist?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 11, 2010 - 09:45am PT
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Mission, you and I must come from different solar systems when it come to our views on climbing.
I've climbed the SC a half dozen times and haven't found any loose rock. The Third Pillar is a fine afternoon frolic but the SC is far more of a real climbing experience.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 11, 2010 - 10:32am PT
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Good points Mission. I think I'll set my cruise control for the Sierras rather than the Black. Third Pillar of Dana, here I come!
Oh yeah, eating Lee Vining fish tacos is certainly more pleasurable than fighting groves of poison ivy.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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May 11, 2010 - 10:41am PT
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ok, I guess I owe Cragman a apology, Cragen not cragman it's hard to tell when your about to fly off the road at 65 mph. Sorry cragman for the mistake. p.Linaweaver
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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May 11, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
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Hey Crimpie, thanks for starting this thread. It brought a big smile to my face remembering a beautiful day out climbing with The Mission. It perhaps wasn't so fun for the couple who bailed after the ~3rd pitch and then did the hike out...and maybe it wasn't so fun for the 2 guys who started ridiculously late and then had to bail after the 1st pitch and the hike out, but we had a blast.
Can't wait for your trip report!
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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May 11, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
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I don't know about the Cruise--I got thirsty up there and the river was kind of loud and annoying to shout over. At least on the Pillar you can traverse off and melt some snow. . . .
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 11, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
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Yeah, chowing down on Lee Vining fish tacos after the Third Pillar beats slogging down poison ivy filled trenches anyday.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 11, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
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I almost forgot the photo request - here are some from climbing it my 2nd time, with Wayne Burleson, September 11, 2005.
first pitch; you can stay close to the arete above via the 5.10 variation; we went off left where it's easier.
(photos of middle pitches left out, because they're not so spectacular - I can post 'em if you really want...)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2010 - 11:30pm PT
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Wow. I thought I'd seen the most spectacular photo of this climb already. Clint shows me I'm wrong. That's really beautiful.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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May 12, 2010 - 12:03am PT
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Double Wow! Those are breathtaking!
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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May 12, 2010 - 09:25am PT
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The Third Pillar: now that's a MAN'S climb!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 12, 2010 - 10:48am PT
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Boulder gang, took me awhile but I'm catching on- I hope you all get poison ivy.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2010 - 10:53am PT
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Hee hee.
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Degaine
climber
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May 12, 2010 - 10:56am PT
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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May 12, 2010 - 11:11am PT
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Awww Jim, it's all out of love.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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May 12, 2010 - 11:12am PT
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He he he. Crimps you are a baaaaad girrrrrrrrl.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 12, 2010 - 11:17am PT
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Sweet pics Clint :)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2010 - 11:18am PT
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It's was an group effort of love. :)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 12, 2010 - 11:23am PT
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Poison ivy, poison oak....AND shingles.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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May 12, 2010 - 11:31am PT
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Lions and tigers and bears...
Oh my!
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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May 12, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
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Ive climbed it 6 times....one of my all time favorites
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:19am PT
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Jim could hardly talk about anything else at the American Ambling Club meet after the FaceLift. He's a good sport.
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:42am PT
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Good exposure, good views, easy climb - this thing is so much fun.
Way better than the Black canyon. I do hate me some poison ivy.
Donini's crazy
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Oct 17, 2011 - 02:16am PT
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Scanned slide from circa 1986...
Eric Collins
Recent photo taken from Hwy 120
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franky
Trad climber
Ford Pickup Truck, North America
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Oct 17, 2011 - 03:01am PT
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Having done The Cruise (haven't done the scenic version) and The Third Pillar, I'll say that The Cruise is way cooler, no contest! The Third Pillar is a cool climb, but The Cruise is a MOTHER F*#KING CLIMB!!!
It is more comparable to The Casual Route on The Diamond, which is also definitely a better 5.9. ;)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2011 - 10:34am PT
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This is a fun thread and Jim was excellent in it. :)
Lots of beautiful climbing. Need more photos to be sure though. :)
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:37am PT
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Its not always butterflies and rainbows up there...
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Oct 17, 2011 - 11:38am PT
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I've done it 5 times, with the first time being in 1980 when I lived in June Lake. The one thing I really enjoy about the whole experience is once you top out there is no descent. You collect your luggage and walk out. That being said, I think only the last 3 pitches are worthy of note.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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Oct 17, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
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@Cor, what a thrill to witness the moment. Such a proud accomplishment.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
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Bruce Kay, your last pic is so good it hurts. That's the spirit, right there.
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aliebling
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
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From earlier this season. What a fabulous climb!
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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Oct 19, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
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Bumpidity bump for Jim Donini and recognition of such a prestigious award. So glad we could share the moment with you!
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TLloyd-Davies
Trad climber
Santa Clara, ca
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Oct 19, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
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Such a great route
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 19, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
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sweet last shot! man that looks awesome.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Oct 19, 2011 - 04:49pm PT
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I've heard tell that this is Donini's favorite climb.
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Cor
climber
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Oct 20, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
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philo,
he loves it so much he won an award for it!!
(see my previous post)
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Oct 20, 2011 - 04:13pm PT
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Well Cor, that's what I'm talkin' about.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
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Jim was very worthy of such an amazing award. It's telling to so few climbs have awards named after them. The Third Pillar is clearly deserving. :)
What a moment that had to have been. :)
Thanks for the new photos. Awesome place. Still haven't climbed it though - boo hoo. My body serially keeps thwarting that. Maybe next year...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Oct 20, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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It's not the complete 3d Pillar award until it's got wreaths of Poison Oak leaves.
Well earned Jim!
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Byran
climber
Merced, CA
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Oct 21, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
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It was my favorite climb for a while, and even now it still ranks in my top 10.
The approach is quite lovely as well.
Just don't go down the wrong gully at the end.
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The Alpine
climber
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May 23, 2015 - 09:23am PT
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Pillar bump.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
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Hoh man- fun to see this revived. What a fun thread - I can still remember how perplexed Donini was! :)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 23, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
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Hook, line and sinker. Catch and release next time....please.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 24, 2015 - 06:22am PT
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So did Maldaly ever get up this thing? Sounds like it would be a great 60th BD gift. :) Maybe base off the top to avoid the hike out.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 29, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
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You could do one of the 5.10 option starts on the right:
(this one is called Pajamarama, an FA Karl Rundi I did in 1981)
(right of the regular route and left of Lenticular Limbo)
Somewhere in the middle:
The crack option to the right of the ear:
Almost looks like a tower:
Looking down the last pitch:
The pictures are from 1985 and 1986. The climbers are Jennifer Bergeron and Shelley (Presson) Dunbar
Slide photos refurbished by Peter Haan
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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May 29, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 29, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Nice!
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 29, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
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^I'll second that SLR.
and
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
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I know that claw!
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 29, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Claw - haw. That's the prettiest paw ever seen on the ST.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 29, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
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Best route in CA, or so I've heard.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 29, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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Awesome route and climbing!
Peace
Karl
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 20, 2017 - 04:17pm PT
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Third Pillar? Oh that thingey Peter Croft used to do before coffee on a guiding day.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Jul 20, 2017 - 04:25pm PT
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Totally Jim,
Too much attention for this climb for sure.
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Messages 1 - 104 of total 104 in this topic |
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