Woodfords Canyon

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Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 10:10am PT
Weather's supposed to be nice
this Sun-Mon. Anyone want to go?
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 15, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
Credit: Chim-Chim
We got out there Bill. It was kind of cold if you left the base routes. We managed to climb three new lines. A 105 foot 5.11b with a left-facing flake(5.10a) leads to a ramp and thin finger crack crux(tree anchor). The second climb followa a double crack in a left-facing corner to a fist finish(5.10a). The third climb shares the anchor with second climb. A 5.11a clean left-facing corner leads to a roof crack and bombay flair 5.11+++. If a friable foot breaks the grade wii be bumped up to 5.12b or so, very pumpy and awkward. These climb would be climbed regularly if the were base routes, but they're about 400 feet off the deck in a "hanging" terrace. We're going up on Tuesady to finsh up some anchor work and tick off a few more routes. Give a shout. Dan

The first climb is located on the east face of the prominent leaning tower(third formation from the right) which host's the classic four pitch Hand of God(5.11c). The other new east-facing) climbs are located on the terrace to the east of the Hand of God Tower. 135 routes on the winter side and counting. Twice as much winter cragging than Sugarloaf and Phantom Spires combined! The rock may not be as fine grained but the potential for exploration is seeemingly unlimited. Check out Mountain Project for recent entries. D.K.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#130520
stella

climber
cali
Mar 17, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
difficult decision between here and sugarloaf.....but never been to woodfords, and it sounds pretty damn good. so headed there with a couple friends for thursday and friday. already printed off the guidebook from the obscurities page. any y'all locals got any more beta on where to go this time of year? cliffs, routes, access, whatever info would be great. also wondering what the camping situation is. is there any dispersed camping in those parts if the stuff by the river is snowed in? coming from truckee, so its just a bit too long for a day trip....seems like we'll need at least a couple days anyways to get a feel for the place. thanks, matt
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 18, 2010 - 12:38am PT
Stella, check out the info on Mt. Project>Tahoe Vicinity>Woodfords Canyon> There's some nice routes rthat aren't in the old guide. Also carefully follow the approach directions... even if your going to the Sun Wall... don't get suckered up the sandy descent trail(EWe have seen several parties suffer unnessesarily on the "approach" Go further up the trail towards the rocky knoll, then go up and back right. If you go up too early you'll be "worked" we're going up Thurs see you there. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2010 - 12:41am PT
Hey Chim!

I was just coming here, you
beat me to it.

Saw Ryan in the gym, tonite.
Let's get on Big Bad Wolf with the
good weather!

I'm ready to stand in snow even
and get down on OOTD.

EDIT Stella- no problem with
camping. Sunny Winter Side is
clear of snow. Easy camping
everywhere, that's what I'd do.
Have fun.
stella

climber
cali
Mar 18, 2010 - 01:15am PT
thanks guys....got some of the stuff off mountain project, looks like plenty to entertain. hopefully we'll run into you and i can scum some more beta...we'll be the ones with two big dogs. cheers, matt
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 19, 2010 - 01:44pm PT
Matt< It was nice meeting you guys I hope you had a fun time... nice job on Whisker Biscuit. Give a shout if you plan on heading out there again we'll meet up and I'll show you some of the Multi-pitch classics.
Credit: Chim-Chim
Dan
stella

climber
cali
Mar 20, 2010 - 12:33am PT
dan-

thanks for all the beta. we didn't get a whole ton of climbing in today (my partners left around 1 PM) but checked out the Books area. the 5.8 was phenomenal, and cat scratch fever was cool too (except for the death flake low on the route). didn't get on any of the harder or newer stuff this time, next time i'll check it out. o.u.l.d. and mr. personality looked pretty cool, the rock is reminiscent of the new stuff in pine creek near bishop. overall, woodfords gets a BIG thumbs up! everything we got on was 4-5 star quality, and we barely scratched the surface. looking forward to a guidebook coming out, kind of hard to find your way around there on your own....a little too much rock. i'd have to say that woodfords is probably my new winter destination (sorry sugarloaf). anyways thanks for all your hard work, i'll hit you up next time i'm in the area. cheers, matt
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:26am PT
Matt, thanks for the positive review. It is awesome huh? The guide is close to completion. I'm meeting with a possible publisher(hopefully) within the next couple of weeks to finish up a year long project. We're establishing many new routes to add to the 138 climbs on the winter side. The place is very complicated and hpoefully the information I've gleaned over the last ten years during the recent renesience sp? with help visiting climbers appreciate how fantastic this place really is. ut please don't think that woodfords has only winter climbing. There's plenty to do on the other side of the road.
Credit: Chim-Chim
See you up there! Dan
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:40am PT
Really looking forward to your guide Dan ...Although it might be the demise of that little "gem" of an area....Been occassionally falling my way up classics around "Fords" since the 70's. Your devotion to the area is admirable. Best wishes and keep up the good work.
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 20, 2010 - 11:02am PT
Mark, thanks for the words of encouragement. The guide has taken quite awhile to take shape. Recent additional routes has forced me to rewrite and edit regularly. There will be thirty or so topos, many beta photo shots, and very extensive narratives of route approaches as well as a brief written description of each climb. There seems to be alot more bodies going up there since the old guide came out as a pdf file. Hopefully this guide will help people find the climbs easier and keep everyone on the "beaten" path, as well as spread out the traffic as most parties congregate around The Sun Wall and Winter Prime areas. Still with all of the recent development, we've only just scratched the surface and there is no doubt that exploration will continue for a long time for any onr who willing to get filthy. Peace Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
Visited obscure sections of Woodfords Canyon this weekend.
Credit: Footloose

Anyone know anything about this corner crack above the Epoxy Wall. Chim?
Credit: Footloose


Too bad some obscurities are 1,000 vertical feet
or more up the hill. I haven't tried any of these.
They look to be pretty nice.
Credit: Footloose

It was a beautiful day. Here you can look down
on the highway and see cars of climbers who are up on the Fortress:
Credit: Footloose

For anyone who wishes to explore the area, this photo looks
down on the highway and the backside of the famous Big Bertha.
Credit: Footloose

Higher up:
Credit: Footloose

Credit: Footloose

FYI, One of these Days, a Woodfords Classic on the South
Side is now in the sun in the afternoon. Climbers were there
on Sunday.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 10:02am PT
Where are you, Chim-Chim?

What's that corner crack called
above the Epoxy Wall and what's it
go at?
Chim-Chim

climber
May 5, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
Footloose. just got back from the busy ditch. A couple of friends are one day away from topping out on the nose and have done a great job at representing the W3oodfords.
To answer your question... the crack up and left of Epoxy Wall is a stout 5.9+. There's another crack in a corner located up and right from the epoxy wall(5.9) that is a nice diversion on the way to the upper walls that you took photos fo... I've climbed the walls up there but there are. no fixed anchors bring extra long cordage to sling blocks then walk off east down the dry gully... it's loose so be very careful. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
Chim, thanks. Good to know.

I actually didn't get to its base. I
got distracted by another path to another
interest.

Please take my photo if you can and mark up your
approach to this crack. This would be so
helpful.

FL


P.S. Give it a name so I can talk about
climbing it- this 5.9+. It's the one I want to
do.
Tattooed 1

Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
May 5, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Hey Chim,
Is there any published topo info available yet? If so where can I get it?
Tim
Chim-Chim

climber
May 6, 2010 - 12:03am PT
Tattooed 1, I'm sorry, but no up to date complete guide is available but the Woodfords obscurities pdf file coupled with info Mt. project should get you going in the mean time. Feel free to give me an email if you'd like a tour. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Spent yesterday at One Of These
Days. FYI, it is once again in the sun.
Credit: Footloose

The best 5.10c in Lake Tahoe:
Credit: Footloose

Took 3 laps on this baby.
(dang, have to clean the dust off the lens...)

Another view:
Credit: Footloose


If I weren't so sore, alas, I'd be back there today.
Happy climbing everybody in Lake Tahoe and the High Sierras
this summer!


Chim-Chim

climber
May 17, 2010 - 11:10am PT
Footloose, I think I found yer baseball cap! I'm heading to yosemite tues though fri, I'll give you a shout when I get back. Oh yeah we just cleaned a straight in finger and hand crack that may rival ootd as the best 5.10c... unfortunately it' three pitcheds up its called Finger Bang. Dan
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 17, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Chim

Give me a shout when you get back. Have fun in the Ditch.
Foot...we all need to hook up sometime.

Shawn
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