Tangerine Trip A2 5.8

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
adaptive winter ascent of tangerine trip!!!!!
Thursday January 23, 2014 7:17pm
so this whole adventrous and RAD climb all started with this email on wednsday morning before I went off to school...



Hi mickey,
Lets scope out the conditions, if there isn't a lot of snow on top I say we get Mickey and CRANK out a no bivy adventure. Bring a small haul bag with a thermos, and a stove, and keep drinking hot brews to stay warm. Zodiac? TT?

I'll just tape my fingers together if I need to, but it is much better.

First adaptive Winter El Cap (though I did an ascent in a Winter storm that started 3 23) technically, but first in Jan, which is cool. There is a 0 % chance of rain for the next 10 days. Mickey can only go on the weekend. I'll send him this e mail.

Go team! Wayne



with waynes stoke and my 3 day weekend coming up in 2 days I begin to feel that I will be suffering from lack of sleep in a very short while. so before I go to school I print off a topo and start examaning it in history, math, english, then came lunch and I called wayne... left a message saying lets do the trip this weekend. he called me back later that day and confirmed we are climbing sunday with a badass named kris!!!!!


so it is saterday and it is 2:00 and I leave for yosemite. as I drive I think about how the pitches will be and the technicle stuff. think about the water and what blocks I want. I get there and try to go to bed but it just is not working, no matter how hard I try I cant go to sleep.

so it is 7:00 AM and its sunday, as I am in my sleeping bag on the bridge looking at the route wayne and kris pull up and the adventure begins!!!!!! we meet and talk about the drive and things then wayne starts off on the approach. me and kris start to put the rack together and take things off and add things on we are getting more and more stoked. soon enough we start the approach and meet wayne at the base. we decided that I do the first 8 pitches and kris will do the next 8. the boys give me the anchor info and how to fix wayne and such then I start. with 15 feet of free climbing done and 1 bolt clipped my shoulders already hurt :) I get done with P1 and set up the belay and start off on pitch 2 as wayne Jugs and kris cleans. after the first 3 pitches and a couple cluster f*#ks thanks to me I start off on pitch 4 and it is a very easy pitch because of the fixed gear. I get to the roof and start lowering and doing penji's to the anchor. it is now dark and it begins to get very calm and a bit colder. I start P5 which was the hands down best pitch for me, super fun and very splitter towards the end. I eventually get done with P.7 and I begged kris to let me start jugging and start the belay job rather then being a rope gun and he has no problem with it. as we get higher and higher and wayne gets free hanging ropes after free hanging ropes we get more and more tired. kris was still killing it all the way to the top and we reached the top 1 hour after sunset on monday. we sleep on the ledge 100 feet from the top because it is shelterd from the wind. I sleep in my haulbag and all of us are reasonable warm. the next day we get up and jug the lines we fixed to the tippy top the day before and I call me buddy joe marley and mom and even good ol jaysen henderson... telling them that we have made it and had a blast doing so. we start packen the bags for the descent as wayne heads down. soon enough we make the rappels and pleased to find 3 new ropes of thin diamater rather then 3 old 11mm static ropes from hell!!!! I get down first and find a gri gri 2 at the base (BOOTY!!!!) and head down to the parking lot, put the pig in a box and hitch a ride to the bridge!!! drive back and start organizing gear. soon enough kris shows up and about 3 hours later wayne is with us as well. we drive back to bridge and go our separate ways, wayne and kris back to washington and me to SLO.

Credit: whitemeat
at the base
at the base
Credit: whitemeat
winter time conditions ea???
winter time conditions ea???
Credit: whitemeat
night hours
night hours
Credit: whitemeat
wayne jugging monday morning
wayne jugging monday morning
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat
it is a penny!!! used like a RURP or somethen!!
it is a penny!!! used like a RURP or somethen!!
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat
that would be one bad ass monkey!!!!!!!
that would be one bad ass monkey!!!!!!!
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat



this trip was rad and a really great learning experince. I learned how to climb with an adaptive climber and kris tought me some really cool tricks to clean, lead, and short fix. it is hard to call a winter ascent but none the less it was in january. I thank wayne and kris for letting me come along on this push.

it ended up to be about 34 hours but, what is time?????!!!!!!


  Trip Report Views: 3,930
whitemeat
About the Author
whitemeat is a trad climber from San Luis Obispo, CA.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Jan 23, 2014 - 07:28pm PT
Classic. TFPU! The spelling, capitalization, and punctuation still gets to me, but I'm learning to let it go :)
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
  Jan 23, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
Proud send bro but you write like a fifth grader. Climb fast but take your time when writing a trip report. Your writing does not do this accomplishment justice. You should delete and do it over. Love your psych though. Cheers!
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Jan 23, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
punctuation police gonna police!!!

keep it raw!!!!111111 I haven't jerked off to airbrush in years!!! LIKES IT MUFFY AND SKUNKY
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jan 23, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
Meat,
your stoke is rad but you need an editor for your trip reports.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jan 23, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
Pretty f ing rad.
But...

How about something, anything, about the adaptive climber.

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Jan 23, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
What cluster belay ?

It looks like all was well. Thanks for the TR !
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jan 23, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
LOL! I loved it--spelling errors and all. ;-)
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Jan 23, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
Yeah dude!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Jan 23, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
Yeh, ya liddle bitch learn ta spell.

Pleeze can we have some more?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jan 23, 2014 - 09:17pm PT
Way cool!
Nice job getting in an El Cap climb during the school year!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
  Jan 23, 2014 - 09:24pm PT
Dude!!!!! You is livin' the life. Can't wait to get back down there so we can do somethin'

NICE JOB!

Plaid
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
  Jan 23, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
Great job mickey, sounds like you needed a ghetto blaster... remember fun is always number one! If there's not beer and music, all you are is a dude playing on a wall with a buncha other dudes in the cold. See you in a couple months.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Jan 24, 2014 - 07:24am PT
hypo-stoke?

may i lecture you?
as i dangle in this existence from
a gossamer-caliber cord?

i commend you for trenching your well of enthusiasm and drive
while you are youthful, exuberant, care-free and errant.

let me tell you, son,
that someday you will tap this wealth of resolve in ways
that you can't yet dream of, nor should you dream a future circumstance.

keep it up. crushing those fears and doubts. learning new depths that dwell within you. climbing the runout mounts!
hanging your asse out in wind. scraping soft flesh.
drinkin. climbing. merry-making.
all is as it should be.

someday, though, they'll be careers. and bills. and homes. and children. and spouses. all kinds of responsibilities that demand creative problem solving while vying for every last drop of your life spirit.


you'll have it. and you'll still have some left to fourth class un-dreampt goals.

i applaud your enthusiasm, and recognize a little bit of my youthful self in your story.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jan 24, 2014 - 07:58am PT
Great TR, spelling and all is a little indie, but who cares. What's an adaptive climber?
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
  Jan 24, 2014 - 09:39am PT
What's an adaptive climber?

Typically it means someone is overcoming the challenge of a disability by participating in a sport in a non-traditional or 'adaptive' capacity. But I have no idea what it means for this TR
A5scott

Trad climber
Chicago
  Jan 24, 2014 - 09:58am PT
Jeez man ur still crushing! Yeah Wayne! amazing job guys!!

thanks for sharing!

scott
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 24, 2014 - 10:22am PT
What's an adaptive climber?

well in this case wayne has Paralytic Polio and has been in some bad motorcycle crashes and bicycle crashes... he cannot use one of his legs very well at all and has braces all over his wrists and legs. he cannot lead and needs someone to lead for him but he makes up for every bit of what he lacks with tremendous stoke and inspiration!!!!!!!! GO WAYNE!!!!!!!!!
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
  Jan 24, 2014 - 10:49am PT
strong, meat! keep after it.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jan 24, 2014 - 11:11am PT
Wow, what a beast!
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
  Jan 24, 2014 - 11:27am PT
What do you guys expect when the kid spends English class looking at topo's?

Nice TR Mickey.
clockclimb

Trad climber
Orem, Utah
  Jan 24, 2014 - 11:28am PT
Way to get after it! You three are the real deal.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jan 24, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
Damn they placed a bolt in a perfect spot for a penny!!! What a bunch of wankerzzz!!! JK!

Way cool! Congrats. I was wondering why the hell aren't you doing walls in this perfect weather :)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jan 24, 2014 - 01:05pm PT
39 hour push.. Well!


I might give my left nard for a PINCH of your energy !


Rock on White dude!!!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Jan 24, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
Well done bud! Keep the stoke alive!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jan 24, 2014 - 02:02pm PT
Excellent work going there and doing it. I was in that area in the middle of last week, and it didn't seem like winter in terms of snow or daylight temperatures, but the days were still short and the cliffs cold when the sun wasn't shining. The only wintry things missing were the drip and falling ice during the day. To me, you still did a "winter ascent."

John
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 24, 2014 - 02:52pm PT
Nnnnnnnice job.

My typical high school weekend was pickup basketball and a shooting the sh#t late night in an In-n-Out parking lot. Yours is El Cap in a push in winter. Your college app essays are going to be better than mine were.

If Wayne is reading this: give us your version of the TR, man!
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Jan 24, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
Awesome!!

Glad to see more adaptive climbers on the Big Stone!!

Rock on boys!
Kristoffer

climber
mali, africa
  Jan 25, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
Credit: Kristoffer
For those of you that are not familiar with Wayne I believe this photo pretty well sums up the adaptive conditions that he is working with.
Credit: Kristoffer

I find it pretty damn inspiring that a man with disabilities and not to mention also being in his 60’s is out there crushing it in the mountains.

I must add that Wayne has been quite blessed with many great partners for quite some time, and all of which have helped make his dreams come true and inevitably assisted him in plant the seeds of inspiration in many other individuals with limiting circumstances.

I have been very blessed to be able to call Wayne a friend and to be included in many adventures with the man. And let me tell you, the work doesn’t end with the ascent, because the descents are always the technical crux and mighty cowboy!

At that I would like to leave you all with a word of encouragement to get out there and help someone reach their dreams. …and by doing so you may just end up reaching yours.

Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
  Jan 25, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
streamofclimbingnessbadassness

adaptive edit, im way soft bump
Enty

Trad climber
  Jan 25, 2014 - 04:05pm PT
I find it pretty damn inspiring that a man with disabilities and not to mention also being in his 60’s is out there crushing it in the mountains.

I must add that Wayne has been quite blessed with many great partners for quite some time, and all of which have helped make his dreams come true and inevitably assisted him in plant the seeds of inspiration in many other individuals with limiting circumstances.

I have been very blessed to be able to call Wayne a friend and to be included in many adventures with the man. And let me tell you, the work doesn’t end with the ascent, because the descents are always the technical crux and mighty cowboy!

At that I would like to leave you all with a word of encouragement to get out there and help someone reach their dreams. …and by doing so you may just end up reaching yours.

Inspiring dude! I met Wayne at the Bridge when we'd just come down off Zodiac in 2011. We casually mentioned The Shield or Sunkist - well I'm up for that in 2015 - Wayne? What about it dude?

E
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jan 25, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
bestest tr evr ritten by txt on flipfon with mitenz on!!!!! st0ke!!11
thebravecowboy

climber
hold on tight boys
  Jan 25, 2014 - 04:53pm PT
who needs reading and writing when you can CLIMB?!

great work!

if need be, I will help you to edit future TRs.

I learn about cojones and Yos, you learn to write bettur.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
  Jan 25, 2014 - 04:53pm PT
Way, bad ass!

Love the stoke!



Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jan 25, 2014 - 05:21pm PT
hell yeah!!

nice job, 'meat!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 25, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
sounded like a perfect time to be on the wall. nice job guys
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Jan 29, 2014 - 03:24am PT
Sunkist in 2015 it is, Craig! Thanks for the kind comments, especially those from my stellar partners.

This was the first adaptive push of El Cap by a climber in his 60's,
the first by a 17 year old (by only a week) and an adaptive climber,
as well as the first adaptive ascent in the Winter Calender.
It was my 16th ascent of the Captain, and half of those I have done in a push, six in under a day.

Only 4 to go to hit 20!
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
  Jan 26, 2014 - 02:04am PT
the boys give me the anchor info and how to fix wayne and such then I start. with 15 feet of free climbing done and 1 bolt clipped my shoulders already hurt :)

This kid is the Jack Kerouac of big wall climbing. He is the future!

Sick work dude!!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jan 26, 2014 - 02:12am PT
great stoke whitemeat
and it was wonderful to run into you this fall at the Captain.

I'm looking forward to reading about your further adventures...

props to the whole team... wayne m way to go buddy!
Trusty Rusty

climber
Tahoe Area
  Jan 26, 2014 - 02:20am PT
Great job gettin after the Trip guys, right time of the year these days.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 26, 2014 - 08:26am PT
Nice meat!
Aaron Stireman

Gym climber
Siege tactics
  Jan 26, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
Mickey you rock man, keep crushin!!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Jan 28, 2014 - 07:46am PT
Badass! Brings back lots of great memories. way to send in the winter!
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jan 28, 2014 - 09:51am PT
Jeez Wayne...ya look like yer in yer early 20's, not 60's!

Had no idea what an "adaptive climber" was when I first read this thing; glad I came back for a second look. Now all I can think of is how you and Stokemaster Whitemeat make all the other wallclimbers look sorta whimpy. ;-))
ozborne2

Trad climber
Merced, Ca
  Jan 28, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
Sweet stuff dude!! WE should get together and do something this summer in the valley. Maybe go and crack that bolder we found that one day, haha. Good job though. see yeah soon hopefully.
Peace
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Jan 29, 2014 - 03:42am PT
I was telling Kristoffer and Mickey about our ascent of Native Son while we were up there, Chris. We have had some great times up there!
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
  Jan 30, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
YEAAAAAHHHHH MONKIES!!!!!!


OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHH

ELCAP just got smaller from you guys crushing it!
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Apr 11, 2014 - 12:07am PT
So sick!



Wes

Andrew Barnes

Ice climber
Albany, NY
  Apr 11, 2014 - 02:18am PT
Nice. Very nice trip report. It's always impressive and inspiring to see an adaptive ascent.
jonnyrig

climber
  Apr 11, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
That's cool! Thanks for sharing it.
complimentary hits

Social climber
colorado
  Apr 16, 2014 - 02:25am PT
hell yeah can't wait to get to the valley!
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El Capitan - Tangerine Trip A2 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Tangerine Trip is route number 25.
Photo: Galen Rowell
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