Lurking Fear, El Capitan C2F 5.7

   
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 4 days
Approach time: 1 hour
Descent time: 5 hours
Number of pitches: 19
Height of route: 2000'
Overview
Lurking Fear is the easiest aid line on El Cap. The lower pitches are beautiful, exposed and straightforward, while the upper part of the route involves wandering, lower-angle free climbing of lesser quality. The hauling on the last seven pitches is bad and punishes parties that bring too much.
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History

First ascent history
Dave Bircheff, Phil Bircheff, and Jim Pettigrew made the first ascent in 1976. Though Jim and Dave were enthusiastic about the route, Phil had to be tricked into it. As Jim recalls, “We told Phil, ‘Come on out and do some free climbing with us in the Valley.’Next it was, ‘Help us carry loads to the base of El Cap.’ The game continued until Phil had gone from not wanting to climb to leading every third pitch on an El Cap Grade VI first ascent.”

On the first attempt the team was stopped by a long four-inch crack on Pitch 8. They had the option of leap-frogging bongs up the crack and placing bolts, but in an act of ethical purity they chose to retreat to the ground for the necessary free-climbing hardware. Feeling it not sporting to leave their ropes and gear on the route, the team decided to bring everything down as quickly as possible. After rigging a crude parachute from the team’s three butt bags, the team chucked their haulbag. Their plan didn’t quite work. Instead of gliding like a feather, the team’s brand new haulb...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

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  • Fifty Favorite Climbs, by Mark Kroese (great photos, stories and topos)
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: June 3, 2014
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Lurking Fear is route number 1.
Photo: Tom Frost
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