The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Yosemite Old School Texas Style
Thursday May 17, 2012 10:12am
Another assembly of adventures from the '80s.

http://vimeo.com/42053640

Mike Head, PO Wall Crux
Mike Head, PO Wall Crux
Credit: Crump


  Trip Report Views: 3,136
Crump
About the Author
Crump is a social climber from Lakewood, CO.

Comments
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Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  May 17, 2012 - 10:16am PT
an absolutely awesome video montage!

TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
  May 17, 2012 - 10:22am PT
World class good times. The goods! Proud.

Back when doo rags were bandanas and really meant something.
Jim Smith

Trad climber
sunnyvale, ca
  May 17, 2012 - 10:40am PT
Awesome, love the whole thing.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  May 17, 2012 - 10:42am PT
Thanks Mr. Crump! What an awesome trip down memory lane . . . you guys didn't get pulled over in that 'caine rig did you?

Peace.
Grampa

climber
from SoCal
  May 17, 2012 - 10:53am PT
Excellent!
Michael Nicholson

Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
  May 17, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
Cool Vid!
Silver

Gym climber
  May 17, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
Now that is how its done.

Nice style! Love the car. 'Eat at the Y" classic!

take note you wanna be wall climbers these hombres had it right.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  May 17, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
Man, I love your videos, Crump! Is it just me, or do the loads in those pictures seem a lot more manageable that the tons of gear we carry now?

John

nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  May 17, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
Really nice.
Crump

Social climber
Lakewood, CO
Author's Reply  May 17, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
Yeah that car was a hoot. As I am protecting the innocent, the car owner was met by the rest of the team at the airport, as he returned to Boulder from a wedding in Texas, with his car all painted up. They bombed to the valley and on the way on Grapevine Pass doing 90 mph, one of the car's occupants exited to the hood and ascended to the hood ornament, turning it to be more areodynamic, return back to said car... All without being arrested.

They proceeded to meet a former Chanel #5 model who had caught her husband in bed with a starlet, and after a couple of walls driving her back to Malibu because she had destroyed some movie directors Winnebago...

Thus LA Woman...

Another story was from a Micky'Ds drive in where a little girl, looking at the car asked her mom, "Who is Jake?"

Only Texans can get away with this sh#t. If you are not from Texas, and it is not the '80s, wash your car before heading to the big v.

As to our racks, when I did the PO with Mikie and Dave Baltz in '81, we barely had Friends. It was all hooks, pins, wires and hexes...
Silver

Gym climber
  May 17, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
Crump

I sent that pic of your car to my friend and he thinks that he should have his 10 year old kids first car painted with the words.

'Eat at the Y" on the hood.

You inspire!

S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  May 17, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
What an awesome montage! Way to represent centex!
James thanks for taking over erockonline.

the other scott
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  May 17, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
Crump and Comp.

Yahoo! Hayduke lives!

"Ah never liked TX much; but LA is ok fer such a dinky place. It's good entertainment, like the Salathe, only Muir so."--Mr. N.V. Rising

Have you boogers gone to other Canadian hot spots like the Bugaboos?
Sounds like you get around a LOT. The LFT, YELL CAP, is there anyplace else?

I'm being polite. Some might just yell "MORE!"
Crump

Social climber
Lakewood, CO
Author's Reply  May 17, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
Thanks, first, friends... thanks, ... Yeah, I have more, 19 existing threads now on the ... vimeo.. the one that needs more love is this really dry one about David Heads fine cooking on Baffin Island. I do have a full Baffin TR in the works... and this was meant to get everyone excited about that future release, ... oh well... you all make me feel loved, thanks.

https://vimeo.com/34212258
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  May 17, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
Have some faint memories of you. never climbed together but your name rings a bell. can't place it. Wichitas?
Crump

Social climber
Lakewood, CO
Author's Reply  May 17, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
Nah, Texas. Texas my friend, Texas!
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  May 18, 2012 - 12:19am PT
very cool! TFPU! Loved The Doors tunes with it
tom Carter

Social climber
  May 19, 2012 - 02:08am PT
YES!

Awesome, thanks for putting that together!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  May 19, 2012 - 09:43am PT
Still need to check to out the video but that PO Wall photo didn't look super familiar. Is that the start to the Illusion Chain pitch?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  May 19, 2012 - 10:48am PT
Very nice! I do twke issue, however, with calling the 80's old school- how about middle school.
Crump

Social climber
Lakewood, CO
Author's Reply  May 19, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
Well Jim, I accept your schooling. I would not dare to defend against The Doninosarus!
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  May 19, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
Most excellent, and nostalgic.

Chris Bellizzi and I did the PO in 1980 - and my photos look much like yours - big hair, homemade gear, etc....of course, living in the bay area we only had a 4 hour drive to the Valley, vs however long it took you to drive from Texas....

Nicely done.

Paul
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Aug 22, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
Coming back to this TR time after time. And the hits just keep on happening!
I totally enjoyed the video (again and again and again) and you had some good shots you probably had to leave out, I'll bet.
The one shot I loved best was a 2:15 of MCR, the Model California Rock. Love it!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Aug 22, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
That is awesome! Way to put all of that together!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Oct 10, 2014 - 06:37am PT
Oh, just bump it and stfu.
Okay.
go-B

climber
Cling to what is good!
  Oct 10, 2014 - 08:51am PT
Texas holdem & Texas shuffle, Good times!
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Oct 10, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
I saw "Real Gravy" painted on that car.

Chris Rowins was a friend of mine, and in Oklahoma, the Real Gravy story was a hoot.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Oct 10, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
Great Friday Valley stoke! TFPU.

I got my 'Cocaine Train' packed and heading up there tonight!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Oct 10, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
Hella cool.
Thanks/
WBraun

climber
  Oct 10, 2014 - 02:51pm PT
Eye don't see any ten gallon hats.

Are ya sure yer from Texas ...... ?
Crump

Social climber
Lakewood, CO
Author's Reply  Oct 10, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
Hey thanks for the bump and the kind comments.

Those were some great road trips and the whole story of the painted Road Whale is way funny. That dame at the end was a wild and out of control Chanel #5 model who had found her director husband in bed with a starlet...

The resulting tale of her running into those damn yahoos from Texas is too tall to tell!

I am loading a new video as we speak. About a couple of Texans going to Las Vegas...

I will post up the link when it is on line.

Thanks again friends!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Oct 10, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
Haven't checked out the vimeo yet, but is that the Illusion Chain pitch? That was at memorable pitch, not didn't feel as sketch as I thought it would, not for me at least. My partner, on the other hand, said the flake groaned as he cleaned it.
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