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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Type 2 Fun on the Shield with Whitemeat!
Wednesday August 21, 2013 10:44am
leading p18 roof, this thing is huge
leading p18 roof, this thing is huge
Credit: Jaysen

Being afraid is relative to the situation you are in. If you are afraid while truly knowing you are in no danger, are you really that gripped? I may have employed the method of whispering "Jaysen, you are a f*#king badass" to myself more times than I care to admit, but that's how we got it done. We climbed the shield on El Capitan, my 5th bigwall in the span of the summer and mickey's 8th.

It all began as zodiac did. We were fresh off the wall and felt like zodiac wasnt too much of an ordeal, so why not do..... another? Mickey threw around the idea of climbing the Shield. As I let it ferment in my soul, it soon surfaced and all it took was a facebook message to get mickey in the valley a few days later. I was fully aware this was going to be a bit more of a beast, but photos of monkeys on the triple cracks really looked outrageous. Out came the red tarp to start sorting gear.
Rackin up
Rackin up
Credit: Jaysen
Rack__
1 RURP
9 Beaks: 2sm 3med 4lg
2 LA's
8 Sawed Angles
2 sets: offset micronuts
cams: 3ea .33-.75
2ea #1-#3
1ea #4,#5
2 ea offset cams
1 ea hooks
8 gallons o' water
1 ghetto blaster

Pre Hauling Day
Mickey and I met up, packed our bags and with the goal of pre hauling to mammoth, set off for a half day of exciting happenings. We had 2 bags, one el cap size bag and my halfdome size bag, this is the biggest haul either of us have ever done so we learned some lessons real quick. Hiked loads to the base and jugged the fixed lines up mammoth. Hauling sucked with that much weight and forced us to resort to a 3 to 1 a couple of times. We hauled to mammoth, docked our bags and took a rest day to look at the mountain and get scared.
ready to pre haul!
ready to pre haul!
Credit: Jaysen
Credit: Jaysen
Rest Day
...Drank a bunch of cobra

Day 1
We woke up not too early, kicking off with some breakfast at the coffee corner and off we went to the bridge to start. Hiking to the base we past a peculiar party of two in the meadow, after a few seconds of wondering why this aura of badass was so thick in the air (I knew it couldent be me), it rang up in my head HOLY F*#KING SH#T THATS CHRIS MAC AND SEAN LEARY! We chatted with them aslong as we could without being "those guys" and waltzed to the base of free blast. There was 2 parties on the first pitch... one was hauling three bags... we then learned that this guy was taking to newbies up triple direct and the other team was currently passing them. Why you would haul up freeblast, I dont know but regardless the route was clogged so mickey and I decided not to loose a day and just jug to mammoth and start there. I was pretty stoked someone els was actually going to be on the wall with us! Until now whenever mickey and i have been on the captain we had been all alone (it was to happen again, that party of three bailed that day). Off we went on the first pitch, the most wandering and low quality of the route.... and it was even kinda fun. P2 I got the 170 foot c2 pitch which was an exelent warmup to the route, as was p3 for Mickey. p4 SUCKED, it was this chimney I was too much of a baby to free and reinforced my new notion that "awkward" written on the topo actually means "this is awful just free it". Got to gray ledges and set up camp. I gave mickey the ledge to himself for the first night and opted for the natural ledge. We fixed a pitch to p5 and off to sleep.
Credit: Jaysen
hereee we go from mammoth
hereee we go from mammoth
Credit: Jaysen
mickey on p3
mickey on p3
Credit: Jaysen

Day 2
Today's original goal was to make it to the hang between the two crux pitches. We woke up again not very early and ate some peanutbutter bagles and canned fruit. Mickey cruised the 160 foot c2 corner up p6 and it was my turn for the 160 foot c3 left leaning dihedral leading to the shield roof. I was not afraid of C3 at this point, even thought the amount of C3 ive done could be counted on one hand, I was confident. On the previous pitch mickey had stopped 20 feet before to marked belay on the topo because the haul was better making my pitch somewhere around 180 feet. Pins still in the bottom of the bag, I made my way half way through the traversing digedral and found myself on my 2 smallest offset microcams. I yelled down to mickey as everybody does like every 2 moves "watch me mickey" before he knew it I picked him right out of his belay seat and being eye to eye with him we both burst out laughing. Sometimes scary things like taking a 40 foot fall are just funny. Regardless this was my first aid fall and after re racking the 3 pieces that ripped I immediately jugged back up not allowing time for fear to set in. Got the pitch done and now it was mickey's turn to take us through the portal to the new world... The shield roof. This was thought to be not such an ordeal. Still we pulled out the rack of sawed off's from the bag and racked them because the roof had alot of fixed pins (thank god we did). This was a benchmark moment in my bigwalling career, belaying (yes belaying) mickey on this pitch. Until this point we were just on el cap as we had been before, but entering the headwall freaked me out more than I had anticipated. I have never been afraid of exposure in my entire life, nothing from the nose or zodiac even entertained a second thought, but belaying a slightly shaken mickey up the shield roof into the howling wind was something in its own rank. As his feet went out of view and all i could hear was the ...ping...ping...ping of his hammer in the howling wind, I knew things has just gotten slightly more real. Knowing there was 0% chance of hearing mickey (we sussed our our commands via sequence of actions) I started cranking AC/DC from the coveted ghetto blaster. I learned that the best way to handle fear is to become a part of it, convince yourself that becoming one with what you are afraid of puts you at the same metaphysical level of your fear. I just became as badass and scary as the howling wind on the headwall so how could it hurt me? Mickey fixed the line and hauled, as I lowered the bag out I then had a real life representation of how much fun the remainder of the route was going to be, the bag was 40 feet out from the wall. I treated the shield roof as a 1 way portal into the unknown, by committing to the roof, I knew there was no way I was going to bail. The dynamic between Mickey and I is that its always easier just to go up, even if it was some a5 whoreshow, im usually more afraid of rapping. Regardless, there was no way we would down aid the roof and we were past the point of no return and committed to the crux pitches of the route. Arriving to the belay to a mickey I hadent seen in a while, I stoked him up and set off on the longest pitch like ever. I'll spare the details but p9 felt like it was 200 feet (only 170) and i was WAY stoked to have finished my leading for the day. At the base of the groove, what was to mickey's lead we both simultaneously agreed to bivy below the "crux" pitch of the route and gaze at it for the afternoon.
mickey on p6, and above is p7 where I whipped
mickey on p6, and above is p7 where I whipped
Credit: Jaysen
Mickey jugging up to the shield roof, its gettn windy!
Mickey jugging up to the shield roof, its gettn windy!
Credit: Jaysen
me getting scared watching mickey haha
me getting scared watching mickey haha
Credit: Jaysen
jugging the roof, the wing was so strong my loop of rope was horizonta...
jugging the roof, the wing was so strong my loop of rope was horizontal and forced my to jug with my left side to the wall
Credit: Jaysen
looking down while leading p9, EXPOSHAAAA!
looking down while leading p9, EXPOSHAAAA!
Credit: Jaysen
F*#K YOU GUYS I NEED A NEW PROFILE PHOTO
F*#K YOU GUYS I NEED A NEW PROFILE PHOTO
Credit: Jaysen
another photo from p9 after i entered that long corner system
another photo from p9 after i entered that long corner system
Credit: Jaysen
mickey jugging p9, thank god we can bivy anywhere!
mickey jugging p9, thank god we can bivy anywhere!
Credit: Jaysen

Day 3
Today was "the big day". Sleeping on the headwall was surreal. It was everything all the dreams I had of being a real climber entailed. To get to experience that position and remain calm and happy was easily achieved. Also, belay the next 2 pitches out of the portaledge was CLUTCH. At this point I had taken most of the longer pitches and the groove was only 90 feet. Mickey really wanted the triple cracks so I decided to take it easy on myself seeing how I had inadvertently gotten most of the harder climbing to this point. The groove with the technology of the beak is no longer the crux of the route. All the dead rurps were really awful, It seemed so unnecessary. I used alot of large beaks and my 2 small peckers near the end and romped the hang bolt ladder. It was really secure and I climbed it in half an hour. WAY STOKED that was out of the way we flagged the ledge to the base of the triple cracks and I set in for a comfy belay. Mickey super stoked that went so fast got up and racked for the trip cracks, we were hoping for chickenhead ledge that day so getting that head start was really nice. Mickey made his way up the triple cracks with a good strategy. The triple cracks are trisected by bolts connecting the cracks, so at each bolt upon transfuring to the next crack he would go down and back clean that section to get his angles and beaks for the next. Somehow we only had 1 1in angle, something we place like 5 times every pitch so there was alot of back cleaning goin on (thank god for the funk-ness!). Mickey took down the triple cracks and we felt like we had gotten over the hump. We dident. I found the following 2 pitches the crux of the route. First, flagging the ledge in the wind ended up shaking violently and crashing against the wall so that got put to an abrupt stop, also the wind was just a little eerie so these pitches ended up being "get it done" pitches. P12 was the hardest for me on the entire wall. Another rope streatcher, but this time rated at c4 a2, I basically went from a nailing gumby to guru. This pitch was so tenuous because it was restrictive. I couldent place a cam as far as i could reach, I could only place a pin at my face and move up to the next scar that was just out of reach and back clean to move up. I placed the same angle 1in angle 7 times on this pitch and will never forget it nor the lesson I learned. (note: the 1.25 angle was crucial for me on this pitch(im 6 foot tall)) It took me 2 hours of looking up and being taunted by the triple bolt anchors. Mickey took the next pitch in the same fashion and romped the bolt ladder. SO STOKED we were going to make it to chicken head in the light, I did p14 in 15 mins (mostly fixed with a little free climbing) AND WE ARRIVED AT THE BEST LEDGE ON THE PLANET! The exposure of the headwall instantly perished and again we were coexisting in the real world as mere mortals. There was some much needed hooting and screaming of profanity as we layed foot on a non artificial means of standing. Very confident about the following day, it was a relaxed night. Mickey and I joked about what the R meant in my C3R pitch i had the following day and ate a shitload of spaghetti o's and chili. Mickey crashed and I took a few reflective moments and joined.
leading the groove
leading the groove
Credit: Jaysen
mickey belaying, still in his sleeping bag
mickey belaying, still in his sleeping bag
Credit: Jaysen
my PLUSH bivy
my PLUSH bivy
Credit: Jaysen
triple cracks!
triple cracks!
Credit: Jaysen
mickey gettn er donee
mickey gettn er donee
Credit: Jaysen
you can see the other 2 cracks in this photo
you can see the other 2 cracks in this photo
Credit: Jaysen
almost finished!
almost finished!
Credit: Jaysen
STOKE!
STOKE!
Credit: Jaysen
Credit: Jaysen
looking down after leading p12 i think
looking down after leading p12 i think
Credit: Jaysen
get ur shells on! its 80 and windy! haha
get ur shells on! its 80 and windy! haha
Credit: Jaysen
mickey looking down half way through p13
mickey looking down half way through p13
Credit: Jaysen
CHICKENHEAD!!!!!!
CHICKENHEAD!!!!!!
Credit: Jaysen
THE BAGS ARE GETTING LIGHT!
THE BAGS ARE GETTING LIGHT!
Credit: Jaysen
Day 4
Today was a 6 pitch day, I knew it was going to be work but I dident care, I was damn well ready to top this bitch out. I woke mickey up early and he slammed out his last C3 pitch. And again with my C3 P16 where I actually was stoked to have the number 5 (thought you can get around it). All the hard climbing out of the way we were STOKED. Mickey got the primp c2+ corner to the roof where i got to do some pin clipping on p18. I volunteered for the following 5.7 slot pitch. Racking on my harness again felt SO GOOD. There is now a bolt about a quarter the way up the route which is cool. Topped it out and mickey took the 4th class to the top and hauled. WE MADE IT! I knew this was my last el cap route this summer and therefor my last topout on the captain. It was a big deal to me. I had arrived to the valley 3 months earlier with a job working for DNC and aspiration to MABY climb the nose by the time I left. I had demolished my goals by a multiple of 5 and committed to some of the most monumental achievements in my life. As I write this trip report in the airport on ym way back to NY, college, work, no bigwalls, and a more certain life. I envy those moment spent on the top of the mountain, those sparse seconds of glory, glory with nobody there to be happy for me but myself and my partner.
p16 easier than expected, C3???
p16 easier than expected, C3???
Credit: Jaysen
sweet ledge to belay from 16
sweet ledge to belay from 16
Credit: Jaysen
leading p18 roof, this thing is huge
leading p18 roof, this thing is huge
Credit: Jaysen
free climbing on top of el cap! p19
free climbing on top of el cap! p19
Credit: Jaysen
Credit: Jaysen
Credit: Jaysen
the booty! we dident leave a single fixed piece!(except lowerout t...
the booty! we dident leave a single fixed piece!(except lowerout tat and fixed pins ofcourse)
Credit: Jaysen
Departing note
(not a part of the trip report)
Bigwall climbing has been the most badass sh#t ive done in my life. One of the reasons it was so cool is its something I was capable of doing all by myself. With parents that arent huge fans of my decision to come to yosemite I got to do something under my own power that was important to me. Although working for DNC sucked (until I quit) that was the only way I could be in the valley. Finding something I love so much is inspiration to treat school just the same as walls. Knowing I will be back (new dawn and mescalito next) leaving the valley was a bit easier than I thought. After a badass summer im going back to school where noone will understand what I did and it doesn't matter, because the only people worth impressing are you guys on supertopo. Keep climbing walls and posting tr's, because I am now temporarily becoming a reader as opposed to a writer. And even though im not 16 like mickey (im 19) I guess I can now pride myself a wall climber.

As in my favorite Bigwalling song, "for those about to rock, I jaysen henderson salute you"

also, yergonnadie.

  Trip Report Views: 5,298
Jaysen
About the Author
Jaysen is a trad climber from NY working the the park for the summer. A burrista at the pavilion coffee corner, come say hi!

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Aug 21, 2013 - 11:07am PT
Way to get after it guys!!!
Jaysen, with those glasses you wear you remind me of Royal Robbins,
all ya need now is one of those newsboy hats.
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Aug 21, 2013 - 11:19am PT
thanks for writing that TR man, it is freaken spectacular! that was the best rock climb iv ever done and certaintly the scariest:) I hope you come back to yos and we can do more walls or meet in zion or somethen... have a blast in NY!
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
  Aug 21, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Kids these days.....


Bad ass men!
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
  Aug 21, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Way to Git 'er Done! I think we'll be hearing from you fellas again...
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Aug 21, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Jaysen - Badass! Yes, the lessons learned in route apply to many of life obstacles
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Aug 21, 2013 - 11:33am PT
I did the 7th of the Shield in '76, and added a direct start the following year, and on both ascents used a hammer and pins, de rigeur back then.

But 20 years ago Charlie Fowler raised the bar by climbing the route hammerless.


If somebody added bolts to a classic people would be up in arms over it, but slowly chiseling away at it with pins after it had reached a condition where this was no longer necessary is, sadly, not seen as hypocritical.

Everybody else does it, so why should I sac up?


Sorry. Rant over.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 21, 2013 - 11:44am PT
Rest Day
...Drank a bunch of cobra

You guys are too young for that! :)


WELL DONE! CONGRATS!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Aug 21, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
Excellent psyche! Great TR!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Aug 21, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
Nice report guys. That 9th pitch is the bomb, isn't it?

I have to agreed with Ron when I hear about people nailing that much on this route. I did it in '91 (feel old just reading that) and we only nailed about 6 or 7 times on the whole route (a couple of those were rurp placements, mostly by using plain old TCUs in the pin scars. With offsets and the knowledge this route now goes clean, I fail to understand the temptation to hammer so much.

Anyways, my rant over as well. Glad you had a blast.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 21, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
duly impressed




and what does this mean?
Sounds like you're getting married and buried...

"a more certain life"


Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 21, 2013 - 12:58pm PT


What Vitaly said, although with Vitaly's cachet, "well done" coming from him is high praise.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Aug 21, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
16 and 19? And on the Cobra already?


I knew you guys had potential! Good job Jaysen & Meat.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
  Aug 21, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
F*#K YES!!!!!1111666
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Aug 21, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
I'm not qualified to comment on the hammer ethics, but I love the stoke that pours off you guys.
sangoma

Trad climber
south africa
  Aug 21, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
YEAAAAAAAAA .....

big A .... to u boyz
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 21, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
WOOOO HOOOOO!!!!! (nod to Jeremy)




I climbed The Shield 15-20 years before you guys were born, and I'm still smiling, THANKS!
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
  Aug 21, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Way to go, J-Send and Meaty!

Ian Jewell

climber
  Aug 21, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
hey, is that my old metolius haul bag , did i sell that to one of you guys ? ( the tan one )
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Aug 21, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
Cool TR, and everything, but what did it have to do with Type IIs? I thought this was a thread about VW buses. :-)

Awesome TR! Thanks for bringing us along!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Aug 21, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
You guys are having way too much phun. Don't your dads ask when you are going to get a job and be responsible?

TFPU!

edit: Ekat TM
eKat

Trad climber
  Aug 21, 2013 - 08:48pm PT

WOOOO HOOOOO!!!!! (nod to Jeremy)

That would be WOOT, FarmerBruce!

:-)
sullly

Gym climber
  Aug 21, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
Thanks for the summer entertainment you two. If only the 90 days had been documented Morgan Spurlock style. Jaysen's tedious job, Whitemeat's attempt at seat making -- all put up for public scrutiny on this board. I had expected a mishap, but you gents pulled it off. So proud of you!
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
  Aug 22, 2013 - 12:04am PT
I haven't done much aiding at all; never really had a desire to, but this TR along with the photos is probably what makes me desire to climb El Cap the most right now. Very nice write up, looks like a blast.
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
Author's Reply  Aug 22, 2013 - 12:07am PT
A note on our style, I nailed more than I like to admit. Having said that I employed the practice of always trying to use the offset cams as my first option but regardless I obviously had a lack of experience (or balls). Having that said, I did the groove with but a single pin, but the 2 a2/c4 pitches above I was unable to beak as I did on the grove. I for sure have some learning to do, but now back home in the Adirondacks I have as many dirty virgin cracks (heh) as I want to practice with!

Also thanks for all the support and help from the supertopo community, always helping me stay stoked and now keeping me stoked to come back. Just printed off a massive mescalito topo to put on my wall and keep my palms sweating for the next year..
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Aug 22, 2013 - 12:10am PT
the monkeys are sending!!!! goooooood stufff fellas.
jstn

Trad climber
monrovia, ca
  Aug 22, 2013 - 12:15am PT
Damn! 16 and 19! Way to get after it! Stoked for you guys are awesome!!
bergbryce

climber
East Bay, CA
  Aug 22, 2013 - 12:24am PT
Holy $hit man, one helluva summer!
You should be proud of yourself and your accomplishments. A lot of the kids you meet this fall will talk about doing lame $hit all summer and you can casually mention you worked in Yosemite and did just a bit of climbing ;-) well done
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Aug 22, 2013 - 12:34am PT
sully,

"Whitemeat's attempt at seat making" now that belay seat is one of the best projects I have ever made!!!

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Aug 22, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Well, i think your rapidly heading to Mr Meat! You guys are off da charts !
sullly

Gym climber
  Aug 22, 2013 - 01:10am PT
Whitemeat and Jaysen, I forgot about Briham too. Thanks for bringing us along this summer. I like how you were each at different life stages going into it.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
  Aug 22, 2013 - 01:15am PT
Wonderful!
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
  Aug 22, 2013 - 11:38am PT
Meaty!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Aug 22, 2013 - 11:43am PT
you cats sucked the marrow out of summer

Well done!

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Aug 22, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Props to Jaysen for owning the hammer work.

I do worry that, besides the scarring issue, that this TR unintentionally sends out another poor message; namely that you can short cut your way onto the Captain.
Why bother climbing a few dozen aid pitches first to hone your skills?
In fact, why bother even climbing to Mammoth if somebody has left a rope?


(insert crotchety old man voice here)
BITD we did a bunch of shorter routes before aspiring to The Big Stone, and then we actually did 8 or 9 leads of climbing in order to park our butts on Mammoth.

I feel pretty certain that Burton and Sutton had paid some dues before, as teenagers they put up a route on a then far more blank (and therefore fearful) El Cap.

OK, I'll go back to my geritol now,..



edit
Matty, you're right. I was wrong.

Nice shots (they take a while to load).
Good TR, I just wish that route would last, and the current attitude won't permit that.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
  Aug 22, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
Uhh Ron they did like 4 other walls before the shield...nose, RR-HD, zodiac...sounds like they did work up to it.

Great job boys!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 22, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
[We] took a rest day to look at the mountain and get scared.

I resemble that remark! Excellent TR, you guys. Thanks much, both for the TR and for the classy response to the style/ethics issue.

When the "Nut Book" used to reside in Camp 4, I always took it as a requirement to do any climb listed there hammerless. When I read Fifty Classic Climbs, however, I was surprised to see pins on the selected hardware list of several climbs that I knew had gone clean. That book came out in the late 1970's, so apparently by then, the idea that a climb, once done clean, must be repeated that way had waned.

In any case, so many "clean" ascents rely on fixed gear that I still would bring a hammer, a few heads, and other tools with me. I keep them hard to get at, though, and that keeps the temptation to use them mid-pitch down.

That said, I admire your efforts. At your ages, I found Royal Arches and the Direct on the Column daunting enough -- and there you two go scampering up the Shield!

John

Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Aug 22, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
You guys are extremely inspiring to this old man. I am planning my first El Cap route this Fall and you guys are seriously helping keep the stoke level up.

BTW, Whitemeat, if you are ever looking for a partner and dont mind climbing with an old man I have a pretty flex work schedule, as long as the fire season isnt too bad.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Aug 22, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
Strong work lads. Now that you've got the aid climbing dialed, time to put those trinkets away and start free climbing those walls while you're young!

Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Aug 22, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
thanks for the TR-- and for letting me into the stoke of youth vibe that you guys have so joyfully shared with my old self and the rest of st
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
  Aug 22, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
If I could have written like you at 19 I would be a famous writer now. Good job on the TR. Consider me to officially be a Whitemeat and Jasin groupie. Hope that doesn't creep you out too much coming from an old lady. LOL!
Stevee B

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 22, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
Thanks for posting some serious stoke. You guys are inspiring and have a terrific way of storytelling and pulling the reader into the experience. Keep getting us fired up!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 22, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Nice work boys. I was on my way through the Valley (Taking my 10 year old to climb Cathedral Peak, his first big summit) and stopped at the bridge for a few minutes. Took a look through the big scope and there was Whitemeat, leading off the portaledge, maybe 20 feet into the biz-ness! I hollered up a hooooweeee! Goooo Mickeeeeeey! Not sure if you heard me up there, but you guys were killin' it. Great job and proud TR.

Jaysen, keep committing to school. Don't let the post climb let down get you down out in the real world. Take your stoke and let it spill into the rest of your life. Don't make the mistake thinking that climbing is everything. Get educated. Get a job/career, and climb your whole life in style! By the way Mickey, here's a cool shot I took that day we met. See ya around.

Scott

Bridge Rats
Bridge Rats
Credit: micronut
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Aug 22, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
thanks for all the positive comments every one!!! thanks for that pic micro nut, we prabobly did here you! we herd alot of things between the groove and triple cracks! now everyone go to yos and climb your own big wall! there needs to be more people on el cap!!!!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Aug 22, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
Bad assssszzzzzzzzzzzz!

DMT
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
  Aug 23, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
glad to know the shield still thrills. thirty five years since i (we) passed that way. same bivi.
big wind too, but hammocks were cozy. thanks for the vivid refresh. totally thusiasmic man!
Bill Mc Kirgan

Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
  Aug 23, 2013 - 08:17am PT
That was a fantastic report. Great pictures and excellent writing makes the reader feel almost like they were there too. Thanks for taking time write it up and share the adventure.

I especially appreciate the candor or humility in your writing. It is one thing to write a trip report with all the facts and some good pictures, but quite another to also share what you were thinking or how you were feeling. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on dealing with uncertainty and fear.


Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
  Aug 23, 2013 - 11:56am PT
You guys just crushed it this summer.

Thanks for bringing the stoke.
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Aug 24, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
Nice guys!!!! Very very cool. I wish I could have been there. Man I'm itching to get back in town....el cap awaits.
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Aug 24, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
briham:

when you get back lets do a watkins!!!
Nanook

climber
  Aug 24, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
Nice!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Aug 26, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
Great to run into you guys at the base. nice send! and super sweet photos.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
  Aug 26, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
I teach 16 year olds in high school, many of whom have related to me stories such as "I went to my grandma's house in Wisconsin", or "I went to Florida" for their summer adventures. If one of them told me, "I was drinking Cobra's on rest days from climbing El Cap", I would really be impressed. Your stoke is infectious. Thanks.
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Aug 26, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
You guys suck....Just kidding...I'm just envious...Way to getter done and good pics too...Thanx for sharing.....

Stevo
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
  Aug 26, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
Wow and great pics.
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
Author's Reply  Aug 26, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
the gopro is a great wall camera!
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Aug 27, 2013 - 12:25am PT
haha, and that cannon one we dropped! you yosemite locals should look for it, we dropped it from the headwall so use your own judge ment! its full of gold!!!!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Aug 27, 2013 - 12:36am PT
Don't make the mistake thinking that climbing is everything. Get educated. Get a job/career, and climb your whole life in style!

This is so true and brings to mind an old friend. We were camped at the buttermilks back in the '80s and he said pretty much the same thing. The guy has done a lot of hard stuff and now makes a mint and still doing what he loves.
PotatoHead

Trad climber
Nunya,ID
  Aug 27, 2013 - 01:55am PT
You guys were in the Groooove!! Well done!
janeclimber

Ice climber
  Aug 27, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
Hi, Jaysen, We ran into you last Saturday at Beer Wall of the Dacks. I recognized your glasses and the blue pig. You guys are awesome!
Grinching

Trad climber
State of Confusion
  Aug 29, 2013 - 12:48am PT
Gentlemen, to each their own adventure... none of us own the big stone or how someone else gets there ... the wall doesn't care and will be there long after we're all gone and our stories fade away.

Well done boys. I was on that one back in '81, and recall it was like the "Disneyland" of big walls. It was perfect, and way cool.

Respect.
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
  Aug 29, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
In the photo "jugging the roof", did anyone else notice the jumar isn't clipped to the rope at the head of the jumar and the daisy chain attachment to the bottom of the jumar is with a non-locking biner? Keep it safe, gents!

Great send and trip report. Thanks for the stoke. Not sure if I have what it takes to put away the Shield.

Wally
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Aug 29, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
Great pics
Bill Mc Kirgan

Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
  Aug 29, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=Oj00OT0pJyMqJw,,

In the photo "jugging the roof", did anyone else notice the jumar isn't clipped to the rope at the head of the jumar and the daisy chain attachment to the bottom of the jumar is with a non-locking biner? Keep it safe, gents!

Wallman,

Yea, I noticed it and winced, but thought to myself that must how it gets done out there and didn't say/write anything.

Reelly, what would weld_it think?



edit

Actually, on second look I see the grigri and know it would be declared safe and rad.



Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Aug 29, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
Your ascent reminds me of my first climb up the Captain--Zodiac in 1983 (boy I feel old writing that). I was 19 and my partner was 17. We had that same youthful optimism (intermingled with some skill) that got us to the top with only the usual drama. Thirty years later, I look back on that one climb in particular. It almost feels like someone else's life.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Aug 29, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
Pretty standard jug rigging there.

Jaysen is using the grigri with a re-direct biner to allow 2:1.

I use non locking biners routinely in this fashion.

Nice.
LiveTradOrDie

climber
  Sep 7, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
I suspect there was no festival of prostitutes on the Shield.
I think you mean "horror show" not "whore show".

:)
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
Author's Reply  Sep 8, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
We both know how sloppy either of those situations can be..
Ikat

Social climber
Carson City
  Sep 8, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Most excellent TR, like your other ones have been

I'll be looking for more Jaysen and whitemeat again next summer.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Sep 8, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
The children these days are just out of control.
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
  Sep 8, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
Awesome TR and well done......

Keep up the adventures, life has a way of flying by and DO NOT get to the point in your life where you find yourself saying "I wish I'd done that "

Rage on....

Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
Author's Reply  Dec 26, 2013 - 08:46am PT
looking like im heading back to the valley in may.... team meat part 2?
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Dec 26, 2013 - 10:19am PT
hmmm, let me think.... HELL YA!!!! only thing is high school gets out june 5th... mescalito ea???????
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2014 - 01:53am PT
did anyone ever recover that camera meat dropped? i need those photos for a slideshow im giving! haha
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
  Jan 29, 2014 - 02:44am PT
Excellent!!!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jan 29, 2014 - 09:30am PT
Fricken cool...excellent .TR....tfpu!
Loose Rocks

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Jan 30, 2014 - 10:51am PT
You guys crushed. Thanks for the stoke.
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jan 30, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
Awesome TR! You guys crack me up.

Thanks for bumping this thing.
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El Capitan - The Shield A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The Shield is route number 7.
Photo: Tom Frost
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El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Nose, 5.14a or 5.9 C2
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The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Zodiac, A2 5.7
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1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Salathe Wall, 5.13b or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lurking Fear, C2F 5.7
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Lurking Fear is route number 1.
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
East Buttress, 5.10b
El Capitan
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East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
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