The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
The Nose Of El Capitan -Party of three, Leave no trace
Friday September 16, 2011 11:25pm
Background:
Three years ago, I entered Yosemite Valley on a backpacking trip with friends, spotted El Capitan and knew that someday I wanted to climb The Nose. I by no means considered myself a climber. I had pulled on plastic and clipped a couple bolts but I had no experience with traditional climbing and no knowledge of aid climbing. All I had was a set of quickdraws, a harness and some motivation.

I came home from my trip, went online and impulsively bought a starter climbing rack. I added some hexes that were given to me from a friend and I was ready to trad climb. Climbing soon took hold of my life and I was out every weekend pursuing my passion.

I was climbing hard, having fun with friends, but I felt like something was missing. In 2010, I decided I wanted to climb walls. Enough single pitch cragging in Joshua Tree. I wanted to go big. I wanted to climb El Cap.

Training:
I was lucky enough at the same time to have two friends who wanted to learn how to aid as well (Jeremy and Tara). We had no idea what it took to climb El Capitan. We didn’t know an aider from a fifi hook (still get confused from time to time). Someone had to know; and we had to learn. We scoured the internet, read Chris Mcnamara’s online big wall draft, digested You Tube videos, bought Jared Ogden’s Big Wall Book and took a class at Red Rock Rendezvous from Ammon McNeely (who put up with me asking 1,000 questions).

After we acquired enough information, we decided to go all in. We had a gut feeling that we would be drawn to climbing big walls and that all we needed to do was buy the gear; so we shelled out the cash and equipped ourselves to aid climb.

We set up fixed lines in trees outside my house, aided on bolt ladders in the gym, practiced on broken cracks at Riverside Quarry, practiced on “the pirate” in Taquitz and throughout the year were able to fit in Lost Arrow Spire Tip, Moonlight Buttress, The Prow, Part of Mount Watkins (two missing bolts on a ladder forced a retreat), and the Northwest Face of Half Dome.

We felt like we were ready for the Nose, so we set a date: Labor day 2011

The Gear:
We developed a big wall pack list (it is still a work in progress as we gain more experience)

STUFF SACK (10 ESSENTIALS/FIRST AID):
Full Mini First Aid Kit, Matches, Tinder, Lighter, Emergen-C, Sharpie(TM) Pen, Duct Tape/Climbing Tape, Toothbrush and Paste

PERSONAL HYDRATION BAG X 3:
Hand Sanitizer, Baby Wipes, Toilet Paper, Poop Bag, Sunblock, Chapstick, Sunglasses, Headlamp (extra batteries), Lunch, Camera, extra Topo in ziplock, Iphone, 2+ liters of water capacity

IN POCKET:
Topo, Bars, Hard Candy

CLOTHING (choices depend on weather)
Upper Body: Waterproof Shell, PrimaLoft Layer, Long Underwear Top, Wicking Tshirt
Lower Body: Waterproof Shell, Nylon Pant, Long Underwear Bottom
Other: Hat ,Gloves, 2 Pair Socks,1 Pair underwear, Bandana, [stylish] Kool Tie

COOK/DRINK
Spork/Knife, collapsible bowl

WASTE
Poop Tube (vons & freezer bags with kitty litter), Pee Bottle for night time (use old 2 and 3 liters)

SLEEP
Synthetic Sleeping Bag, 2 Sleeping Pads (thin-to line the bags), 3 inflatable sleep pads (unless you’re on the portaledge every night), Portaledge, Bivy Sack (Optional)

TECHNICAL
Footwear: Rock Shoes, Wall/Approach Shoes
Body: Prusik Kit, Kinfe/Ductape kit, gloves, helmet, harness
Hauling: Swivel, ProTraction with 2 oval lockers, 20oz bottle top cut off to protect knot (2 litter’s were too bulky and weaker plastic), Haul bags are connected with steel biners
Ropes: Lead Rope 9.7-10.2mm (60 meter), Follow Rope 9.7-10.2mm (60 meter), Haul Line Static 9mm (70 meter – tied for 10 meters of lower out)
Belay: Locking-assist device (Grigri/Cinch) priceless, tube-style backup
Gear: Recommended Super Topo Rack, 3rd cordalette would prove useful coming out of bivies, obtain Aliens for rack if possible. Off-sets are lovely, again obtain Aliens if possible, much more durable than Metolius’ offsets.
Additional: Belay Seat (just use aiders as a makeshift seat), Rope Bags X 5 (or nylon bag) Xtra Ascender & Pulley (backup and for Spanish Burton), bail kit for haul bag with rap rings and cordage

PACKS
2x haul bags (1 Medium & 1 large), 18L pack for all climbers w/ 2.5+ liter hydration bladder

WATER/FOOD
4 L/person (4kg ~8.8 lbs) per day (use 2 or 3 liter soda or h20 bottle with parachute cord clove hitched or taped on), enough food for 4 days, Fruit Cups for the summit

OTHER
Sandwich/Garbage/Trash Bags, Individual Stuff Sacks, Walkie Talkie (very useful on last pitch)

Strategy:
We decided to go heavy and at a moderate to slow speed to maximize our chances of success. We knew of more efficient methods with 3 people that involved short fixing and using only two ropes, but, alas we are mere amateurs and we decided to do what had worked for us in the past and use three ropes. Two 60 meter dynamic lead/follow lines and a 70 meter static haul line tied off at 60 meters so that we could lower out. We would pack out our urine in bottles and crap in a poop tube to ensure that we would make minimal impact on the rock.
The three of us ready to rock
The three of us ready to rock
Credit: JSpencerV

The Trip:
Day 00: Scoped out the climb, checked the lines (there were none), chilled in El Cap meadow drinking hard lemonade(don't judge), newcastle and king cobra
Day 0: Humped loads to the base; drank several beers near the campground
Day 1: Fixed to Sickle (8hrs)
Day 2: Bivied El Cap Tower (18hrs)
Day 3: Bivied @ Camp IV.5 (P22 between Camp IV and the Great Roof) (12hrs)
Day 4: Summit! (19hrs)
Day 5: Hiked/rappelled down (6hrs)
The route
The route
Credit: JSpencerV

Weather:
The weather prior to our departure
The weather prior to our departure
Credit: JSpencerV
The weather report later that week (storm risk was upgraded signif...
The weather report later that week (storm risk was upgraded significantly - once we got off the rock, thunderstorms came in)
Credit: JSpencerV

The Climb – Random Pitch Comments:
Day 1:

Pitch 1: Easy broken rock to a shallow right leaning crack/corner. Mixed C1 and 5.8 free climbing.

Pitch 2: Straight forward C1, good pitch to dust off your aid skills and get ready for the 29 more to come.

Pitch 3: Nothing memorable

Pitch 4: Really fun tension traverses. The first one is a little harder and longer than the second one.
Somewhere during the first 4 pitches
Somewhere during the first 4 pitches
Credit: JSpencerV
Fixed to pitch 4
Fixed to pitch 4
Credit: JSpencerV

Day 2:
Jugging up the first 4 pitches
Jugging up the first 4 pitches
Credit: JSpencerV
Pitch 5: Easy 4th class
Looking down from pitch 5 to Sickle
Looking down from pitch 5 to Sickle
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 6: Only one or two 5.9 moves, mixed free and aid

Pitch 7: Fun Pendulum 20 feet down into 5.6; did not see bolts, so just kept climbing until I ran into the belay station which I assumed as Dolt Hole
After running out some 5.6
After running out some 5.6
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 8: Easy C1 (#4 BD) brings you to a long bolt ladder. Climb to the top of the bolt ladder and lower down until about 10 feet above the belay (as per option A on the supertopo). Swing over to the Stoveleg cracks. As the leader, DO NOT clip any gear or you will suffer severe z-clip-drag. Your belay might be your first piece. Great perfect hand crack. My (Jeremy) favorite pitch.
Stove Legs
Stove Legs
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 9: Continuation of the stovelegs, still fun, but not quite the same splitter

Pitch 10/Pitch 11: These pitches should link with a rope stretching 1 pitch. We did it in 2 pitches because we didn’t have 40 feet of rope left after pitch 1. The topo may be slightly inaccurate or we just suck and guesstimating rope length. Possibly pitch lengths should be 170 and 30. Dolt Tower is a good bivy for 2. Be careful of the loose rocks all over the ledges. We connected the far left bolted anchor to the far right bolted anchor with about 15 feet of our lead line and used this as a line to shuttle our bags to the far right edge for a more proper belay. We then took the rope down and set up the belay.

Pitch 12/Pitch 13: These 2 easily link with one 60-meter rope. So glad I brought two number 4’s for pitch 13! Combining these pitches made for easier hauling.

Pitch 14: Easy 5.7; climbed with headlamp, saw frogs on the wall up here! Climbing is easy, but somewhat dirty toward the bivy. Bivy is nice 3.5’ x 10’ nearly level & flat ledge.
Rise and shine in the AM on El Cap tower
Rise and shine in the AM on El Cap tower
Credit: JSpencerV

Day 3:
Pitch 15: Texas flake. Word to the wise. Don’t be silly (Jeremy…) and bring a 3 liter pack of water and a double rack up this one; rack up later for the next pitch. If you don’t place any gear until the bolt, there will be no drag.
On top of Texas Flake
On top of Texas Flake
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 16: Boot Flake: Splitter and fun aid; after the bolt ladder a cam hook was bomber in the C1+. Be sure to snap a picture of your belayers, as you will not see Texas again.
Boot Flake
Boot Flake
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 17: The King Swing. Lowered about 20 feet below the boot and got it on the second try. I may have been a little low. There is a squeeze/corner with a flare and a small/medium crack in the back below the intermediate belay pedistal. Pulled some awkward C1 (needed a number 4) and continued up to the top of pitch 17 belay. Partners both lowered themselves and the bag out. The aiding was awkward but easy and it saved the extra pitch of lowering down to Eagle Ledge.
Lowering out after King Swing
Lowering out after King Swing
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 18: Thin C1, to an uncomfortable hanging belay. Might link to intermediate belay (post pendy) w/ 60m. Do not haul on this pitch.
Jugging pitch 18
Jugging pitch 18
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 19: We stopped short of 19 and belayed at the intermediate station beforehand. This was great for hauling from the top of P17. This then linked straight to Camp IV.
Looking down at pitch 18.5
Looking down at pitch 18.5
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 20: Camp IV, sticky w/ urine, but not overwhelming. We did not haul here, It would not make a good bivy for more than one, and not ideal at that.

Pitch 21: I was belayed from pitch 20 by one partner as the other partner waited at pitch 18.5 with the bag. I must have missed something because I could not see two pitons. I scrambled to the left of the belay because to the right looked untraveled and there was not a crack. I then traversed back to the right and aided up to a fixed piece with a beaner attached. Traversed 15 feet on 5.7 to thin broken terrain that felt like C2. This was a scary pitch for me for some reason. I had on 5.10 tennies; maybe it would have been cake in free shoes or maybe I’m just a whimp. I aided up to the belay which was on my left. We hauled the bag from pitch 18.5 (where the second released it and jugged directly up).
Attempting to set up the ledge
Attempting to set up the ledge
Credit: JSpencerV

Day 3:
Rise and Shine
Rise and Shine
Credit: JSpencerV
Pitch 22: Easily lead and comfortable back cleaning to the roof clipping only fixed gear. So much fixed gear on the roof but of skeptical quality, follower just clips it and then third jugs a straight line (mini lower-out/pendulum) to the belay.
Great roof was super fun
Great roof was super fun
Credit: JSpencerV
Fixed gear on the roof.  It was a tricam in a previous life.
Fixed gear on the roof. It was a tricam in a previous life.
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 23: Pancake Flake: Super Fun.
From the valley floor
From the valley floor
Credit: JSpencerV
From the valley floor
From the valley floor
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 24: Awkward dihedral then ledge hopping before Camp V. Great bivy spot, plus 1-person bivy just 15’ below and right, and another 1-person bivy 15’ up and right of Camp V. Easy hauling
Leading up to camp 5
Leading up to camp 5
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 25: Easy lead, hauling ok once pigs are plumb. Nice belay stance on 4x3 triangular ledge
Looking down on glowering spot
Looking down on glowering spot
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 26: Easy C1; lot's of leap frogging

Pitch 27: Changing Corners: We caught up to a party (Ed and Vick from the UK) and they were nice enough to let us pass them at the top of the changing corners belay. After some easy aid, I climbed the bolt ladder to the third bolt (reachy!) but only clipped the first. I then heel hooked the arête and crossed over the corner and placed a 00 offset cam. I know it is recommended to clip the first and transition but I thought this way was super fun.
Looking down while jugging
Looking down while jugging
Credit: JSpencerV
The only other party on the route that we saw.  Ed and Vick let us pas...
The only other party on the route that we saw. Ed and Vick let us pass. Thanks Guys!
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 28: Super easy C1 on #1 BDs. Very quick if you leap-frog them. Good 2x2 belay stand after short pitch

Pitch 29: Intermediate belay on topo is not so hot. 5.6 trough is awkward, low-angle, would be quick in free shoes. C2F is heady but straight forward right to the belay, Keep an eye on sagging ropes 5’ down and right of the belay stance, as there are loose flakes down there. Comfy belay otherwise.
Jugging to belay
Jugging to belay
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 30: Easy aid but I did this one in the dark, so I went slow and placed a lot of gear. I could not find a set anchor so I threw 3 offsets in a seam above a bolt and tied a 4-piece anchor to include the bolt.
Leading in the dark
Leading in the dark
Credit: JSpencerV

Pitch 31: Super fun, steep bolt ladder. Free section was more comfortable in free shoes or good approach shoes. If hauling, stop where the topo suggests, at the nest of webbing on 2 bolts; hauling past this point is atrocious. Then shuttle gear as suggested. We used a walkie talkie to communicate because it is difficult to hear your partner in this section.
Final pitch in the dark
Final pitch in the dark
Credit: JSpencerV
Summit
Summit
Credit: JSpencerV
Customary fruit cup on summit at 2am
Customary fruit cup on summit at 2am
Credit: JSpencerV

Conclusions/Tidbits:
* Please note that these comments are coming from beginner aid/wall climbers:

We used the acronym that we made up called DAPPS: Docked (haul bag), Anchor, Protraction, Pulley (if using mechanical advantage on haul), Second Rope (attached to the second and ready to trail)

Always put your ascenders and ladders in the same place on your harness

Do not forget bivy sacks and if you see storm clouds coming move your bivy/rain gear to the top of the bag and get ready to wait for the storm to pass; weather reports can change.

Spanish Burton was used for day 1 and part of day 2 to try to hump our heavy loads, but double body haul was more efficient.

Learn to lower out quickly as it will save a lot of time

Leader calls 10 or 5 minutes to anchor. Follower preps for jugging, pendulum, pig lower-out, etc… upon hearing this.

We planned to free much of the route but ended up in ladders the majority of the time because didn’t realize the difficulty aid/free transitioning and free climbing 5.9 with that much exposure and heavy gear.

It is difficult to transition from aid to free

Bring 2 number 4’s, pitch 12 would be scary without them

Number 4’s are fine for body weight tipped out in 4.5 inch cracks

Only did only one cam hook move the entire climb, did not need a talon or skyhook

Offset Cams are amazing – Don’t leave home without them. Metolius Master cam plastic sheath will likely get shredded from aiding; safety will not be compromised.

Placed 1 nut the entire route and 1 micronut, also takes longer for follower to clean passive gear

We decided to haul up all of our urine to leave no trace on the wall. Correction: Actually Jeremy decided this - which I was initially skeptical about but in the end supported and will continue in the same style on future walls. Pictured: 7 liters or 15 pounds of urine. Curious what colors we could attain eating more beets.
Hauled 7 liters (15 pounds) of urine.  We all felt good about ...
Hauled 7 liters (15 pounds) of urine. We all felt good about this decision and in the future will climb in a similar style
Credit: JSpencerV

Wear your harness really tight and wear a long shirt or else your harness will ride up and your shirt will chafe during hauls (Jared forgot his lube)

Replace all heavy beaners with Camp nanos (more convenient size) or Metolius FS minis to shave weight and rack multiple cams (upto 4) per beaner

Rack Quickdraws in sets of 5-6 so handoffs are easier

Carry multiple trad/extending quickdraws, as they are super useful at the bivy and belays. These are also great retainers for sleeping pads, as the single runner will slip snuggly around the pad.

Lead in blocks, saves time & transitioning gear. Also keeps individuals mentally/physically focused in their roles.
All done.  Still friends.
All done. Still friends.
Credit: JSpencerV

  Trip Report Views: 8,185
JSpencerV
About the Author
JSpencerV is a trad climber from Santa Monica, CA.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
eKat

Trad climber
  Sep 16, 2011 - 11:29pm PT
Aren't you guys DARLING!

FUN STUFF.

The bottles of piss are . . . ummmmmm. . . kinda. . . interesting!

:-)

TFPU!
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Sep 16, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
Very nice
TFPU
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Sep 25, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
Very, very good job! I am so proud of you for hauling all of your water waste off the route! Excellent!
Barbarian

climber
  Sep 17, 2011 - 01:23am PT
Success and still friends. Sounds like you guys figured out what worked for you and stuck to it. Good on ya! Well played!
Gabe

climber
  Sep 17, 2011 - 01:24am PT
Great TR people! Did the piss start to turn the color of Newcastle Brown Ale from keeping it for days? Good on you by the way! Or were you guys as dehydrated as I was when my pee turned brown?
JohnnyG

climber
  Sep 17, 2011 - 06:49am PT
great trip report
MooseTracks

Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
  Sep 17, 2011 - 08:16am PT
Way to go, Jared! What an amazing adventure.

-L
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 17, 2011 - 09:51am PT
Very nice!!

Congratulations on reaching your goal. I set the same goal for myself in 1977.

The route keeps getting easier though. Now it is described as super fun, casual, bomber etc.

When I did it, it was more like difficult, pumped, thrashed, scary and shitz!!! Of course we were using dinosaur bones for stoppers, so it was a little different.

Great work y'all.
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Sep 17, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
Excellent photos and story.

Lots of smiles!

Way to go, hauling everything off with you.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 17, 2011 - 04:42pm PT
Fantasmic Report!

Nice Eco style too!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Sep 18, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
I can't believe this TR has only 12 comments! These guys and gal, wanted to climb El Cap, they sat down and figured it out and then went out and climbed it in better style than 90% of other Nose parties by hauling all their water waste off the route! This is the Gold Standard of El Cap ascents!

This crew inspires me!
Porkchop_express

Trad climber
Springdale, UT
  Sep 18, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
Wow, I second what Mark said^ This really inspired me. I am planning on doing the nose in 2012 as part of a yearlong climbing challenge and this is a great reminder that it is doable with the right approach...sometimes these things grow in your mind and become larger than your ability till you get them out into reality and start breaking them down bit by bit.

Your observations were very helpful--i fit into the same category as you all so hearing them phrased as such really benefits a n00b like myself.

Steve Richert
treez

Trad climber
99827
  Sep 18, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
Like.
billiegoat

Trad climber
North Lake Tahoe, CA
  Sep 18, 2011 - 02:47pm PT
Yo ST, you need a Like button.

This is the most complete TR, EVER. Thanks
Jingy

climber
Random Nobody
  Sep 18, 2011 - 02:57pm PT
Really great TR.

Leave no trace ethic is a good one.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 18, 2011 - 04:08pm PT
Way to go, nice style hauling the pee out!!!
11worth

Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
  Sep 18, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
One of the best trip reports I have read. Great job!
R.B.

Big Wall climber
47N 122W
  Sep 18, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
I am a little concerned that the team only expressed 7 liters of Urine for 5 days.
That equates to 237 fl.oz. total = 5 days = 47 fl.oz. per day = 16 fl.oz. per person/per day.
(a pint a day per person)
I don't know about you but at least 24 oz a day per person is cutting it kind of thin.

You need to bring more water next time, that way you won't be peeing Newcastle Brown Ale.

However, nice job! You won't ever forget YOUR FIRST TIME!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Sep 18, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
WELL done. Pack it up, pack it down.
Peeing Newcastle Brown Ale for 3 or 4 days isn't too bad. Don't make a habit of it, that's for sure.
JSpencerV

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
Author's Reply  Sep 19, 2011 - 12:41am PT
I appreciate all of the comments; Its a cool feeling to share our report with others and see an influence (as this is our first posted TR)

Mark: Thank you for your kind words: I read your Nose in a Day TR a year back and was inspired - maybe someday we will be at that level - it made my day reading your comments

Porkchop: Goodluck!

Gabe: Jokingly, we did drink some Newcastle before the trip; so maybe there was some carryover....

R.B.: Thank you for your concern. We had over a gallon of water per day and finished with 14 extra liters of water (just in case we needed to climb an extra day). We also added about a liter or two of urine to the mix that night. We all felt hydrated; although it may not look like it from the color of the urine!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Sep 18, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
Thanks, I think, fer the pic of pee :-)


What a coolio TR. Thanks so much for posting it. Like eKat said, you guys are adorable. :-)
Deb

Trad climber
Santa Clarita, Ca.
  Sep 19, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
Jared, congrats on accomplishing your goal! And congrats on an amazing trip report! Very well done!

Deb
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 19, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
Quality content bump. Thanks for posting, and well done on the climb. A lot of beta here for anyone who wants it.

First TR where I've learned what the climbers were carrying in their pockets. Knowing what someone else has in their pockets can be incredibly valuable in unexpected situations - could have saved Gollum that long walk to Mordor, incalculable and depraved suffering for his ring, death, etc.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Sep 19, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
Jared, Great job! If you are the Jared I think you are, you were the physical therapist that helped me with my "frozen" shoulder. He's a great therapist!

ydpl8s - Scott Mossman
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
  Sep 19, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
Freaking rad! Even though there are 100 Nose TR's, I still love reading every single one, especially ones like this - thanks!
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
  Sep 25, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
Well done, Jeremy! I know you wanted to do that for a while :)
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Sep 25, 2011 - 06:59pm PT
the urine thing is classy
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
  Sep 25, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
Good Stuff, love reading TR's from the Nose, great work and Thanks for sharing!

Aloha,
will
Anastasia

climber
Home
  Sep 25, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
Fantastic trip report! Good going! Love the toasting of the fruit cups!!!

AFS
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Sep 25, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
I can dig it. It's El Cap.
Huh?
TFPU, ya'll.
wallyvirginia

Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
  Sep 28, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
This is so right!!

You guys are totally inspiring, made me a bit envious and very happy reading this report.

I tried the nose with the same approach in early august this year but had to bail off of sickle because of my partner suffering from heat stroke/exposure chock..

We were the only climbers on el cap that day (as far as I know)..

David Nelson

climber
San Francisco
  Oct 2, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
Great Eco style, all should emulate. I remember the stink of urine on the Nose could really get to your nose at the bivvies. We did not, and I regret our style. There is just something wrong with pissing on the rock you worship, don't you think? The previous climbers set the bar, we need to raise ourselves to the highest level we can.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
  Oct 3, 2011 - 02:13am PT
Nice going, and great TR. cheers
Lolli

Mountain climber
...silence, like a cancer grows
  Oct 3, 2011 - 07:57am PT
Nice read!
Valpine

climber
upstate NY
  Oct 3, 2011 - 08:32am PT
Inspirational.

Thanks for sharing.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Oct 3, 2011 - 11:02am PT
That was proud!!
You all decide to climb El Cap, learn to aid climb, do several perfect prep routes and pull it off in perfect style.
I've never heard a better success story.


this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Oct 4, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
Occupy bump. Great TR.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Oct 4, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
Of course we were using dinosaur bones for stoppers, so it was a little different.

Brontosaurus or Tyrannosaurus?
Tortoise

Social climber
Truth or Consequences, New Mexico
  Oct 4, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
Really cool TR. I'm just beginning to climb and you guy's gave me a hell of a lot of inspiration with that report. I'll do it brown..I mean green too...Thanks for the great read!
stuv

climber
NL
  Apr 1, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
Thanks for posting a nice TR! Glad to see you haul your piss off!
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  Apr 1, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
Glad to see that you didn't add to the urine stench of this climb. Climbing stewards all of ya.

rack multiple cams (upto 4) per beaner
I will never understand the perceived benefits of this method of racking.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Apr 1, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
Way 2 go.... DeDe said it all.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Marcus McCoy from Nevada City
  Apr 1, 2014 - 02:54pm PT
Saw this before but neglected to comment. i like your guys style, and with a very well written TR that happens to be quite inspiring, this is true quality. thanks much.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Apr 1, 2014 - 04:25pm PT

hell yeah! I dig the sh#t outta the fact that as self-proclaimed "big wall beginners" you cats hauled out your urine.

Be the change you wanna see in the world!!



okie

Trad climber
  Apr 1, 2014 - 05:00pm PT
I prefer something with a wider mouth for my piss bottles, like gatorade bottles. Those soda bottles must've been hard to hit for the boys, let alone her...did she use a funnel?
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Apr 1, 2014 - 07:28pm PT
Second time reading this, still awesome!

Very inspiring.

I will strive to copy your ethics and big wall style.

Sick!

Wes

PS Did you use a funnel or just rock solid pouring technique? I assume you had a pee bottle. :)
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 2, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
Bump for a fine TR and a job very well done.

John
Psilocyborg

climber
  Apr 2, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
You should just boil off all the water in that piss at the end of the day, then scrape up whats left and bag it up yo
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  Apr 2, 2014 - 01:46pm PT
Solid work! 2 bivis on the nose with a party of 3 relative noobs is totally respectable! Nice that you had no real traffic to contend with.

And props for hauling your pee! Wish more people did that on the trade routes.
JSpencerV

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
Author's Reply  Apr 22, 2014 - 01:53am PT
Thanks for all the comments. It has been a while since I have checked back in on this report. Re-reading this report is inspiring me again to get on the big stone!

Tara used a freshet, which from what I heard was a real pain. Jeremy and I both just went straight in the bottle no problem.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Apr 23, 2014 - 03:14pm PT
Go For It Jared! Try to keep away from those no-sleep marathon solos though! :-)

Scott
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El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
Photo: Mark Kroese
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El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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Lurking Fear is route number 1.
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
El Capitan - The Shield A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Shield, A3 5.8
El Capitan
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The Shield is route number 7.
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