Trip Report
The DEER Route - A Yosemite Reverse Spelunking Adventure
Friday November 30, 2012 2:07pm
Looking back on the Chockstone Traverse before the first squeeze
Looking back on the Chockstone Traverse before the first squeeze
Credit: PellucidWombat
November 23, 2012
At long last Nutjob and I were able to meet up to check out this obscure mystery route. Some have dubbed it the DEER (Reed spelled backwards?), and it was a fun caving adventure. It was good that we weren't too bloated from Thanksgiving, as we needed every inch of space we could spare to fit through the tight passageways.

I spent an hour picking my way around on lead before finding the squeeze tunnel through, and I battled that crux for another 2 hours before giving up, 15 ft short of the top. Nutjob went up next and in an hour managed to follow my lead and navigate the final squeeze crux! I had the joy of climbing the route a second time to follow.


Our climbing pathways. When I climbed up the second time I followed the Reed's Direct Crack for its entirety.


Roughly the two best ways one can climb the DEER Route.


A Sunny Start

It was a warm, clear, sunny day at Reed Pinnacle. Strangely, we were the only ones there. For the entire day we never saw signs of anyone else climbing around Reed's Direct. Perhaps the crowds were kept at bay by the post-Thanksgiving food feast recovery?


Nutjob leading P1 of Reed's Direct. (5.9)


Following P1 of Reed's Direct (5.9). (by Nutjob)

We made short work up the first pitch of Reed's Direct and the prepared for the unknown. We had no idea what sort of gear (if any) the route would take, so we brought a lot with an emphasis on the wide stuff (it turned out the wide gear was completely useless).


Racked up and ready to go for the DEER. (by Nutjob)


What lies beyond? (by Nutjob)


Entering the REED

Venturing forth. (by Nutjob)

We weren't sure where to go first, so we decided to go far left directly beneath where we'd expect to tunnel out, and chimney up from there. Also, I was curious to see if you could actually tunnel through and out the left side.


Exploring leftwards. (by Nutjob)


Exploring leftwards. Getting dark enough for the headlamp. (by Nutjob)


Exploring leftwards, facing the easier way. (by Nutjob)


Exploring leftwards, facing the easier way and looking up for where to go. (by Nutjob)

It was starting to get dark and spooky in here, so I broke out the secret weapons . . .


Glow sticks make any tunneling adventure more festive.


Exploring leftwards, looking out P1 of Reed's Left (5.8 chimney).

You can definitely traverse out the left side.


Exploring leftwards, looking back at Nutjob before launching off.


Chimneying up. (by Nutjob)


Chimneying up. (by Nutjob)


Chimneying up. (by Nutjob)

As I chimneyed straight up, there appeared to be no pro this way until I reached a roof above, and I couldn't see any way to go beyond the rood, so I decided to make a long traverse back to the backside of P2 of Reed's Direct to plug some pro in the crack and traverse along the underside of where the flake pinches off into chockstones.


Looking over to the light from P2 of Reed's Direct crack.


Looking up along the light from P2 of Reed's Direct crack. (by Nutjob)


I'm traversing up and over a long ways back to the Reed's Direct crack to try that line with pro. So much sideways chimneying . . . (by Nutjob)


Glow stick on first pro.


Looking at rope trailing up behind P2 of Reed's Direct where I placed my first piece of pro. You could sew this up by climbing straight up behind the crack. (by Nutjob)


A PellucidWombat seen in its natural habitat. (by Nutjob)


Looking back halfway through the traverse before the first squeeze passage.


Chockstone traverse from P2 of Reed's Direct to the squeeze passage. (by Nutjob)


Chockstone traverse from P2 of Reed's Direct to the squeeze passage. (by Nutjob)


Looking back at the end of the traverse before the first squeeze passage. This is the last place I bothered with pro.


The chimney is a little tighter up here than the start, but still pretty roomy. (by Nutjob)



The Squeeze Passage

I traversed along beneath the chockstones, plugging in two pieces as I went. Eventually I saw an opening that I could barely climb up and sideways into.


Last view of the wide chimney before entering the first squeeze passage.

I couldn't breath deeply, but with some hard sideways shuffling movements and a little foot stacking and I was able to pop through the first constriction and into a little pod.


Inside the first squeeze passage-traverse.


The ghost of 'ol Mr. Reed haunts this route. That or I've been in here for too long.

As I climbed higher, my gear and helmet became a problem, so I ditched everything except my headlamp onto a trailing line. For most of the passage I could barely turn my head, even without the helmet on, so things began to feel a tad claustrophobic. At least I hadn't seen any spiders yet.


Taking off the helmet to fit better.

I wriggled up a few more tight sections into slightly larger pods, zig-zagging, and at last I could see daylight from above, and blue sky!


View of the end. Alas I could not find a way to fit through. I spent close to 2 hours in this tight passage looking for a way through.

I worked for a long time, grid searching, rotating, but I couldn't find a way through. It was a tough balance, to work so hard, which makes you want to breath hard, but the rock restricts any deep and heavy breathing, leaving you seriously out of breath. It would be easy to panic as you get stuck and attempt to hyperventilate, which you can't, which would make the feeling of needing to do it even worse. Stay calm, think, and press on, or if stuck or giving up on a strategy, reverse carefully . . .


Looking towards P2 of Reed's Left from where I was attempting to exit. I tried moving this way to some larger pods that I thought I could link up, but it was still barely too tight.

After trying for a long time, I downclimbed through all of the squeeze passages to leave my gear and helmet clipped to my last piece of pro. I could tell there was no way to do such physical, tight climbing with so much bulk and weight dragging behind me. Unfortunately, by the time I made it back up, I was tired and worn out enough that I couldn't make much better progress, and eventually I downclimbed to let Nutjob try it out.


Nutjob Gives it a Try

Nutjob photographing a future climb while waiting on belay. (by Nutjob)

I had no idea 3 hours had passed while I was climbing around in there! Fortunately Nutjob was a very patient belayer.


Downclimbing in defeat. I could have lowered, but grinding down the squeeze didn't seem too appealing in comparison.


3 hours on lead in the dark chimney, 2 of them spent confined to a space tight enough that I couldn't take full breaths because my diaphragm couldn't expand fully. Nothing spells defeat like this look. Fortunately Nutjob saved the day, figuring out a way through the last 20' of the crux squeeze! (BTW, I think the brown in my teeth and puffiness of the eyes was from dirt I knocked into my face when placing pro in a dirty chockstone) (by Nutjob)


Downclimbing in defeat. (by Nutjob)


After a run-in with the DEER. (by Nutjob)


Nutjob's duct tape patch job is ready to go. (by Nutjob)


Nutjob ready to try his hand finding a way through the final squeeze. He eventually did! (by Nutjob)

With the benefit of a top rope from my last piece, Nutjob took a minimum of tiny pieces (as per my recon findings) and set off, straight up to the last piece of pro and the squeeze. It was another hour, but in the end I heard a holler of success from above! He had solved the routefinding crux. Now I got to climb the route again to clean gear.


Looking out the crack of P2 of Reed's Direct.


Looking out the crack of P2 of Reed's Direct.


Looking out the crack of P2 of Reed's Direct.


Looking out the crack of P2 of Reed's Direct.


Looking up as I re-climbed the route to follow Nutjob up. Glow sticks are on pro.


Glow stick on pro.


Looking out towards Reed's Left as I make better headway through the squeeze crux.


Looking at Nutjob and the end!


A wombat emerges from the depths . . . (by Nutjob)


Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)


Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)


Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)


Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)

(Video) Finishing the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)


Freshly escaped from the final squeeze crux. (by Nutjob)


The DEER is done. (by Nutjob)


Pantomiming the DEER experience. (by Nutjob)


Heading towards the light! (by Nutjob)

After spending the sunny day in darkness, we emerged just in time to see the sun set behind the horizon as we rappelled. Although we had expected this climb to go quickly, this little recon turned out to be a full day, but what an exciting and tiring one it was!



Rack:

*Singles from #0.3-#3 C4 Camalots, or even just alternate sizes. 1 optional #4 & 1 very optional #5 C4 Camalot (smaller gear can be placed nearby). Slings.

*Kneepads

*No helmet!

*3-6 glow sticks & 1 headlamp each

*Small chest & torso. Ours kept getting stuck. Crux is VERY size dependent and some people just might not fit. At least it is easy to downclimb to retreat!




Links:
Picasa Album

Relevant SuperTopo threads:

*The Deer route

*Inside chimney all the way up Reed's Pinnacle?

*who owns the photo of werner with the boombox?

  Trip Report Views: 4,420
PellucidWombat
About the Author
PellucidWombat is a mountain climber from Berkeley, CA.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
eKat

Trad climber
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
Gave me the willies!

TFPU!
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
Fantastic! I felt claustrophobic just reading it. 'Nutjob' actually is a nutjob! I never realized that.
10b4me

climber
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
adventure climbing at it's best
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:22pm PT

Not being able to take full breaths, that would have sent my mental wheels off the road.

Nicely done gents!

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
It's good to see a Wombat in his element.....:)
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Rad!!!! first of its kind TR from what I can tell.. Thanks for posting up.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
Too cool!!! looks way fun and very unique. I'd love to hide back there and scare people on lead lol...maybe grab their hand when they jam, or just stare at them from inside the crack.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
Awesome!
Caving in Yosemite, LOL
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
Wombats are primarily nocturnal, no?

That was an awesome write-up. The glow sticks were a great idea.

Take the leftover glowsticks to the Black Rock Desert next summer and give us an equally great TR from there.
Sonic

Trad climber
Boulder, Co
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Awesome! Nice Job
Can't wait to get back to the Valley
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Dood, yer twisted! But adventurous and obviously not claustrophobic.

ps
you could edit the number of pics down for those not on broadband ;-)
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
So cool. I love it when people finds ways of wringing new adventures from something that appears to be well trodden. Good job dudes.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
The main thing about avoiding deep breaths was to just stay calm and make small moves!

The most serious part was actually the run-out start based on the way Mark went at first. Contrary to popular wisdom, it is possible to fall out of a chimney. Safer to stick to the protectable crack all the way until progress is impossible, then traverse straight over until it is barely possible.

If you're fat it is truly impossible. But if you're skinny enough to fit through (I'm 6'1" 165lbs), it's actually a pretty moderate adventure and I'm surprised more people don't do it.

It might be a good alternate rainy day objective, where the crux would be getting started on the wet P1 of Reed's Direct.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
Very cool!
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Nov 30, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
So cool!!!

Too cool!!! looks way fun and very unique. I'd love to hide back there and scare people on lead lol...maybe grab their hand when they jam, or just stare at them from inside the crack.

That would literally scare the crap out of me haha
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
Another nice one. You missed you calling to become a rich guidebook author
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Nov 30, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
Good stuff!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
Cool - thanks for sharing.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
Once again you've given us a great TR. My climbing partner of 45 years has spent the past 45 years trying to get me to go caving. I think I now have a project for us, as soon as I lose weight (I'm a lot shorter than nutjob, but weight more at the moment).

Thanks much.

John
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Nov 30, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
tight sh#t yo
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
On exit you've got that deer in the headlights look!!
Yer bats**t crazy!
Well done!

Who/when was the FA?

6'1" 185lbs
I ain't goin nowhere near it.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
wow. THanks for posting this. Pretty weird to be on the backside of a crack like that!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
I feel claustrophobic after this TR.

Thank GAWD for the glowsticks!

PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
For the record on size, in comparison to Scott, I'm about 5'9" and normally weigh about 165lbs (After a summer of climbing, I'm at 175 as of now, but my pant size has shrunken to 30). It was actually very helpful to tie the knots in long for the final squeeze, and don't even thing of trying to trail gear on it - there is enough sideways squeezing (i.e. you are not upright) that that would suck.

And as an addition to Nutjob's talk on breathing - this was my first time climbing a squeeze that was so tight for so long. This was about as hard as the tunnel-through behind the projecting flake on Generator Crack (though harder to find the correct route, and much longer). When I first got winded and found my breathing restrained, it was easy to panic a bit, but I quickly realized that when you get winded in there, since you can't take deep breaths, you should just slow down and rest until you catch your breath from lighter breathing.


Too cool!!! looks way fun and very unique. I'd love to hide back there and scare people on lead lol...maybe grab their hand when they jam, or just stare at them from inside the crack.

I was thinking it could be fun to leave little inspirational signs in there for one to see as they climb higher: "Come on man!" . . . "You've got this!" . . . "Almost there!" . . . "If you're tired by now, you're in trouble for the finish." Or wait until the leader has passed, then place some objects for the follower to find, maybe attached to the pro (troll dolls?).



The glow sticks were a great idea.

Take the leftover glowsticks to the Black Rock Desert next summer and give us an equally great TR from there.

If I had been more on top of it, I should have placed more pro for the glow sticks, and climbed with my headlamp on strobe mode, with the music box playing. Maybe more fun to do at night? Party at the DEER!

Burning Man is definitely on the to-do agenda. The crux is that it is during prime alpine trad time, and on a long weekend to boot!


Perhaps to preempt some other questions:

There was a little bit of wetness in there, but just a few small, narrow drips to cross, and one dripping chockstone. For the most part the rock was very clean, and the dirt not too bad and only found in a few places.

Also, I only saw one small spider and some other type of strange bug, but that was in the wider chimney where I could skirt away from them :-)
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
I tried to psych Mark out about the albino ants and some sticky substance that you better wash off right away before it burns. I don't think he was buying it, or too distracted to care much.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
It might be a good alternate rainy day objective, where the crux would be getting started on the wet P1 of Reed's Direct.

Actually Scott, as you got me thinking about that - you can actually get to that same tree by climbing that 5.4 chimney to the left of Reed's Direct. Perhaps that would be more doable in the rain? Or another option is to start on P1 of Reed's, Left Side (fun 5.8, btw), and tunnel in from there. That side might be a bit more protected from the rain on the first mid-5th bit, and then you are definitely in dry territory if you tunnel right in there.

I don't think he was buying it, or too distracted to care much.
Hahaha! I was wondering what that was about. I think my reaction was a bit of both :-)
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
Weird and postmodern (whatever that is): Great stuff.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
Nucking FUTZ!


This pic draws you in and cuts off your air...

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
that shyt was makin ne palms sweat---CLAUSTROPHOBIC!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
Oh, and for those who wonder about the photos, I gave Scott my DSLR to shoot with and he mostly shot with the natural light in the crack (i.e. no flash). I had forgotten to turn off the RAW recording mode on the camera, but that turned out to be a good thing. I was able to lighten up the photos considerably, bring out detail, flatten the high dynamic range, and clean up noise a lot from the RAW vs. if he had just been shooting with a JPEG recording. You'll notice that my photos with the point & shoot are much darker & grainer in comparison.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Cool!

Small chest and torso... count me out. I'd be stuck in there until I rotted away to bones.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
Good grief! Wyde spelunking!

I wonder what grade something like that would be given?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
It makes me happy that you guys did this. Awesome
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Nov 30, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
The rating is 5.p

where

p = 9 / ( 10.5 - max( {chest/waist/hips/butt thickness in inches} ) )


In other words, it's about 5.8 or 5.9 if your thickest part is about 9.5 inches deep or less. It quickly becomes impossible as your thickness goes beyond about 9.5 inches *.




* I measured by wedging a door shut on me until it felt the right tightness, then using a tape measure determined about 9" - 9.5" depending on door flex.


nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Nov 30, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
Dude Toadgas, tell me which route!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
  Nov 30, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
Nice. I can safely say I won't ever get on (in?) this route!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Nov 30, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
Top Shelf TR. I put it on the SuperTopo Facebook Page here http://www.facebook.com/SuperTopo?ref=ts
Prod

Trad climber
  Nov 30, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
I think I'd bring a gun just in case....

F*#ked-up-awesome TR to be sure.

Prod.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
I think I'd bring a gun just in case....

Hmm, another idea for DEER fun. Bring up a water pistol, and shoot water out of the cracks, just one or two jams above a climber's head. I wonder what they'd think, seeing that jet of water squirting out of the next jam :-)
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
  Nov 30, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
Hey, did you find my house keys in there?
Prod

Trad climber
  Nov 30, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
Hmm, another idea for DEER fun. Bring up a water pistol, and shoot water out of the cracks, just one or two jams above a climber's head. I wonder what they'd think, seeing that jet of water squirting out of the next jam :-)

That is not what the gun is for....

Prod.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
Hey, did you find my house keys in there?

We did find 2 carabiners, a nut (?), and an old gym belay card within the crux squeeze passage . . .
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Nov 30, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
Sick!

Fortunately I am too fat to attempt.
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
Very sick and wrong...top flight!!

lars
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Is the "deer" route the route called the regular route in the super topo guide
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
Is the "deer" route the route called the regular route in the super topo guide

Nope. The Regular route climbs outside for P1 & P2, to the right of the Direct, then tunnels sideways through the "pinnacle" part of Reed's Pinnacle for P3 (P2 is the feint, wandering white streak that goes through the "'s D" writing in the 2nd photo of this TR). The DEER exits into P3 of the RR. If one were so inclined, after the DEER they could continue to the top via P3 & P4 of the RR (5.8 & 5.9), or P3 of the direct (5.10a).
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Nov 30, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
Surreal and claustrophobic account. I had no idea there was that variation!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Nov 30, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
It was I would proposed the name "Deer" route, for "Reeds" spelled backwards

Couldn't do it though, too Phat!

Congrats! Not too many folks have been up that the hole way!

Peace

Karl
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Nov 30, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
You guys see any hamsters in there? How about thermite?
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Nov 30, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
Great. How about the temperature?
I know chimneying tends to warm the body, but three hours back in that
cooler must have quite an effect, I'd think.
Powder

Trad climber
the Flower Box
  Nov 30, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
WOW This is SOOOO cool!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for sharing!!

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
  Nov 30, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
holy jeeeeeeeezus,

next time wait til the guy gets half way up the asthma route and then put on The End by the Doors from your secret ghetto blaster,


then call 911

cool report, i bet scruffy b is on his way to that crack,

does greg stock know about this soon to be exfoilition, jus sayin...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Nov 30, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
Very cool, awesome report as usual. Looks like a fun adventure!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Nov 30, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
It's not "spelunking", dammmit - it's "caving". CAVING!!

And that was one pretty nasty passage, that's for sure. I just returned from the Mammoth System, after trying to negotiate an 8.5" squeeze followed by a tight bend just after it. I couldn't do it, no how, no way. However 30 years and 40 pounds ago, it'd been a cakewalk. But not for us 5'9" 165lb lard-asses.

Stefano made it. Skinny little bastard. The question is, had anyone ever been there before us, and does this nasty squeeze really lead to the legendary Lost Walking Passage?

To take the squeezes we did last weekend, and rotate them into the vertical? Geeez.... no thanks!

Great job on the TR, mate!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Nov 30, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
I freaked out on the tunnel through to Reeds Direct. I am light, by clausterphobia standards. Good job. Seek professional help.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
  Nov 30, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
I like the idea of hiding in there and skering the shait out of monkeys not expecting it. Grabbin someones hand, oh haha.
(Not a leader though, and better if its an unsuspecting pal)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 30, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
Yikes....excellent adventure. Now I know where the next major rock fall will be.
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Nov 30, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
Yer both clinical
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Nov 30, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
^^^^^ scuffy
don't we know about THAT!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Nov 30, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
Now, that was different!
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
  Nov 30, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
ok, skuffy.

that looks like some cosmic cragging you did there,

possible new secret bivy unknown by ranger rick?

is it wide enuff for a hammock?




couchmaster

climber
  Nov 30, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
DEER season must have started. I got that claustrophobic feeling just reading the TR. Good work.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
  Nov 30, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
Nice work, Lunatic Lads. Surprisingly clean stone in there, and some great photos.

How 'bout getting up there on the Steck Salathe and reporting back as to how far into the bowels of Sentinel you can tunnel from The Narrows?

Also, there are the massive bottomless pits in the forest above the Elephant's Graveyard to explore. Few have seen those, I'd wager, none know what lies within.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Dec 1, 2012 - 12:00am PT
Obscurist's in the highest order.

My definition of a nightmare climb, thank god I'm short n port!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Dec 1, 2012 - 12:31am PT
Dang cavers getting it done. Sweet.
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Dec 1, 2012 - 01:35am PT
SICK! I mean you guys are sick. :)

Thanks for the awesome TR.

Wes
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
  Dec 1, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Truly sick ... but fun !
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
  Dec 1, 2012 - 02:25am PT
Nice!

I know someone who got stuck doing the pinnacle tunnel -- inside the tunnel -- and had to take her harness off to get out of it. Now I shudder thinking about where she might have ended up had she slipped.
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
  Dec 1, 2012 - 02:30am PT
TFPU
Great art images too
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 1, 2012 - 03:43am PT
Regarding the bivy questions . . . well, the widest part of the chimney is where Nutjob is standing here:



It only gets narrower as you go higher or traverse left, and there are loose blocks in the base (it is not flat inside but slopes up immediately). Iota Chimney or backside of Iota Flake might be a better contender there.

On another note, at the start of the DEER, on the outside of the main flake, you can traverse heading right behind a smaller flake, to intersect the RR at the top of P1. That part might be a bit wider and flatter at the top (I've belayed from inside of that, looking down on a party on Reed's Direct).

So many hiding places! :-)

An SS spelunking adventure - now THAT would be epic!



Temperature? Well, I overheated so badly that my glasses kept fogging up, so I hung them off a piece of pro to get back later. Even after 3 hrs in there, I was working hard enough that I never got cold - just less steamy. It was just cool enough to keep long sleeves on, though. Probably more for the abrasion protection than cold . . .
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Dec 1, 2012 - 03:40am PT
You guys should have climbed Lunatic Fringe after that, you certainly had the right to after this adventure!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Dec 1, 2012 - 08:34am PT
What an amazing adventure!
There is no way I could endure that.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
  Dec 1, 2012 - 10:46am PT
I've heard rumors that this has been done before, a long time ago, but I don't know...

I'm thinking John Dill or Roger Breedlove for some reason.

Anybody know?

Werner might


Edit: Looking back I guess it was Roger, supposedly. I dunno though, he's second only to Largo for tall tales. These guys have photographic evidence
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Dec 1, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
This is awesome - the kind of TR is that keeps me on ST. This route has literally been under all our noses.

Also, looks scary as a MF. I think I'll avoid direct contact with this one having failed to make it through the SS narrows.

Great job guys !
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Dec 3, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
Cool TR. Nice pictures. I like the glow sticks!

Kevin is correct in suspecting that I had done this in the early 70s. I wonder if anyone else has ever climbed all the way to the exit?

Karl brought is up in a thread a few years ago. This is my post: Reeds DEER Route

When I climbed it, I lucked out and had no problems finding a way to the top, so I wasn't behind there very long. I headed up and left to the exit. I think there is only one way to exit into the horizontal chimney connecting the right and left sides of Reeds. I remember being in one area, moving sideways, where I could not turn my head. As Wombat points out, the width varies--"pods"--where the chimney widens out. I was skinny and had no gear or rope, so it was easy to move around--relatively easy: it is tight.

Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Dec 3, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
I just found a thread that Karl Baba posted in 2003 on DEER.

Karl Baba's Original "DEER" Thread dated Nov 25, 2003.

I posted on that thread also.

Karl had just met a climber, John Bencic, who had soloed up Deer, and then downclimbed DEER to get back to the start. I suppose you could downclimb the regular route jam cracks or the left side chimneys. Backing down DEER is more secure.

Kevin, I always tell the truth! I just simplify, simplify, and simplify and then exaggerate. I might have owned my little Rollie 35, but there was no flash and glow sticks didn't exist.

PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
I think there is only one way to exit in to the horizontal chimney connecting the right and left sides of Reeds.

Unless you are quite a bit smaller than me and Nutjob, this is definitely the case.

I'm not saying in the TR exactly how we managed the last little bit, to keep some fun for others that want to poke around in there. Let's just say you have to think outside the box a little on how to position yourself. :-)
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Dec 3, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
So Wombat, what did you differently at the exit? It sounds like you tried all the different ways on your first try, but then found the way following Nutjob's rope.

We should find John Bencic and start a club for small chested adventurer climbers with no fear of tight places and an appreciation of the dark. Have you guys climbed the Harding Hole (or whatever it is called) in the Lost Arrow Chimney for comparison?

I also think you should name (rename) the route. Something with Glow Stick in the title.
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
  Dec 3, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
http://themetapicture.com/media/funny-gif-cat-fridge.gif
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Dec 3, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
That was totally sick and perverted. I loved every minute.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Dec 3, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
For the record: the only reason I'm wearing a backpack is to keep the camera safe!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
So Wombat, what did you differently at the exit? It sounds like you tried all the different ways on your first try, but then found the way following Nutjob's rope.

Following the rope wouldn't have helped as the way out did not follow a straight line. Fortunately Nutjob could see me and tell me the beta. I dunno, Nutjob, should we spill the beans on this? ;-)

We should find John Bencic and start a club for small chested adventurer climbers with no fear of tight places and an appreciation of the dark.

I think my problem started back in middle school, when I fit myself into a closed locker just to see if I could do it. Fortunately I had trustworthy accomplices to let me out! Perhaps to join the club there should be initiation rites like this, or perhaps being packed inside of a suitcase or something of that nature.

Have you guys climbed the Harding Hole (or whatever it is called) in the Lost Arrow Chimney for comparison?

I haven't done the chimney yet, but I hope to some day! The tunnel through finish definitely has me curious . . .

I also think you should name (rename) the route.

Hmm, "Trial by Glow Stick"? I'm sure I can come up with a better one . . .
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Dec 4, 2012 - 01:13am PT
Going back for the clean ascent- no kneepads??

you guys are my heroes
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Dec 4, 2012 - 06:38am PT
Can you get to the inside of the Reed's Direct crack?

Man, you could play some funny jokes on that. Somebody would be climbing on the outside and you would grab onto their fingers.

If it isn't shallow enough for that, you could put a feather on the end of a stick and tickle their hands.

The possiblities are endless.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
  Dec 4, 2012 - 08:16am PT
I love chimneys (the chimney on the nearby Iota is one of my favorites) so I was intrigued by Roger and Karl's earlier reports. This TR however, takes the cake! Congratulations! If I ever get into climbing shape again, this is on my list. And I will definitely bring memorial glosticks!

Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
  Dec 4, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
Awesome TR! I will not be attempting that, not even in my darkest nightmare.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Dec 4, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
BASE 104

Yes, you can get to the inside of the long Direct crack.
These guys entered the chimney at the start of that crack.
Most of that long crack, perhaps not all of it, is accessible from
the back.
I have read of tricks which have been played on unsuspecting climbers.
Check the links in posts just above.

I have not gone up this chimney, but on numerous occasions I have
entered it from Reed's Left and exited at the belay alcove where
Nutjob and Wombat entered. There is a mound of talus, so the traverse
is a combination of squirmy hiking and actual chimneying, to get past
a few large chockstones.
pc

climber
  Dec 4, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
Creepy but cool TR!

BTW You guys are crazy!

pc
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Dec 4, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
Scuffy, I recall being startled by you at some point in the past, when I was on Reed's Direct, probably atop P1. You were just suddenly there by yourself with no rope. It was an unsettling, but oddly matter-of-fact experience. I think you had been slithering from Reed's Left over to that spot gathering booty? Maybe that added to my curiosity.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 4, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
Going back for the clean ascent- no kneepads??

Actually unless duct tape counts (more of a handicap, really), then Nutjob did it sans kneepads.

I'm glad for the kneepads, though. Both of my knees have problems (left one is in need of a third surgery for the ACL & cartilage), and for the 3 hours I was leading, I could not get my knees off the wall! They were pretty tender after I came down, even with the pads. Now that I know where to go, though, I think I'd go up without since I wouldn't spend that long in there.

Most of that long crack, perhaps not all of it, is accessible from the back.

You can actually see some sucker light pouring in from the wider finish to the Direct. I think it pinches off too much to actually reach that light, but you can get pretty close.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
  Dec 4, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
Obscurist's in the highest order.


FRiggin' absolute!

You killed it boys!!












YER GONNA DIE!!!
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