Trip Report
"Goliath" The intimidator on Yosemite's Lost Brother

by bob
Wednesday August 6, 2014 7:36pm
"Goliath" The name sounds cool. That is what sparked the attention to the route in the first place. Plus, the summit of the Lost Brother had not been obtained yet.

After pestering Eric Gabel (one of the FA) for a bit of information, he promptly sent some nice tidbits concerning the mammoth warrior, among others. Actually, there wasn't any real pestering though. Just kidding. I asked and he simply gave and gave. I love it. Keeps the mind busy with ideas of further adventure. Thank you!

Lets go ahead about a year, or so later from my internet retrieval of information on Goliath.

In that time the battle with this giant was staged on at least three different occasions with three different people. This premeditated battle just didn't work out ever due to multiple issues. Memory says it was mostly due to me with things like health of body and/or mind, and work opportunities. Oh, and the possibility of being just a bit intimidated. As in, "Yeah, that route Goliath sure seems a bit big for today. Lets go to The Pulpit!"

So, this young guy shows up to climb for a few weeks. He has the same name as me. We are the Bobs.

This other Bob has shared a rope with me on routes such as West Face of El Cap, Chouinard/Herbert, and a nice day on Fairview with a trifecta of Heart of Stone, What Would Jeff Do, and The Regular Route. This guy can climb and has more spunk than my aging ass, but he still hadn't jumped on an "adventure route" in the Valley to help round out his bag of tricks for future sends. Goliath would be a perfect way to round out his experiences and allow us the pleasure of a genuine adventure route together. Maybe even a second ascent, though my rational mind says that most likely wouldn't be the case in 12 years. Who knows?.

And it was a grand adventure as any route with a name and description such as this should be. Complete with interesting route finding for the initial pitches, moss, munge, and loose blocks to which the climber and the climber's rope needed to avoid. There was also this insidious lichen which imitated grey granite near the top of the route on the last pitch. Don't put your foot there or "POP!" Had me fooled. Good SH#T.

Here are some photos. These were taken with an old and very possessed Iphone. They are not quality photos, but show you folk this grand intimidator of armies named Goliath.
The mega rack.
The mega rack.
Credit: bob
Must eat well.
Must eat well.
Credit: bob
Dreams the night before.   Ugh.
Dreams the night before. Ugh.
Credit: mabuart
This is a lot of stuff man!   Slightly nervous.
This is a lot of stuff man! Slightly nervous.
Credit: bob
And the moss pulling begins.
And the moss pulling begins.
Credit: bob
Really?   There's more stinky ants in here than I've ever seen before!...
Really? There's more stinky ants in here than I've ever seen before! Ouch! AHHHH!

Credit: bob
And the payoff.  Incredible stemming onto an arete for the final moves...
And the payoff. Incredible stemming onto an arete for the final moves.
Credit: bob
Take this pack man.  The next pitch looks wide and wide a little more.
Take this pack man. The next pitch looks wide and wide a little more.
Credit: bob
Heading up through the two roofs, linking two pitches.
Heading up through the two roofs, linking two pitches.
Credit: bob
First roof almost done.  NOT!  The second was the business.  #6 Busine...
First roof almost done. NOT! The second was the business. #6 Business.
Credit: bob
Nice to take in views after puking.
Nice to take in views after puking.
Credit: bob
Looking grand up here!  This pitch went to the arete after the next tr...
Looking grand up here! This pitch went to the arete after the next tree. Really good stuff.
Credit: bob
Oh right, the views.
Oh right, the views.
Credit: bob
Yup, there are a lot of trees up there, but the terrain gets steep and...
Yup, there are a lot of trees up there, but the terrain gets steep and airy.
Credit: bob
A horribly fuzzy shot of a very fun chimney not like many.
A horribly fuzzy shot of a very fun chimney not like many.
Credit: bob
He's happy now!!!!
He's happy now!!!!
Credit: bob
Last pitch to the summit.  Awesome, wild, cavernous, strenuous, and wa...
Last pitch to the summit. Awesome, wild, cavernous, strenuous, and watch out for that spongy lichen which imitates granite.
Credit: bob
Ahhhhh
Ahhhhh
Credit: bob
Very nice.  Even with a fur ball.
Very nice. Even with a fur ball.
Credit: bob
We did it!
We did it!
Credit: james tissot
Big Line
Big Line
Credit: Eric Gabel
photo not found
Missing photo ID#371678

RECOMMENDED GEAR ON TOPO: leather sling and 5 stones. Ha! just kidding. Doubles to 6 and possible 8" tube thingy if you happen to be big.

GEAR WE TOOK: Doubles to 6 No tube thingy. I'm a pole and the other Bob is a midget.

GEAR WE RECOMMEND AFTER CLIMBING THE ROUTE: Doubles to 3. Singles of 4,5,6 new style camalots or the like. This rack will require some punching skills on wide or the simple skill of walking a big piece here, or there. Doubles to 6 is a huge F-ING rack for a pole and a midget. The bushes like a huge rack too!

There is a reasonable rap down a new route called "Call of the Yeti" which will require two 70 m ropes or two 60 m ropes using some shenanigans on the lip of very steep terrain. Gulp. Info on Sloan's Site. Google it.

The route stays in the shade all day for the most part. As one climbs up, the route itself twists around the front of the formation as the sun twists around the back. Pretty cool! Literally.

We linked 4 and 5, 6 and 7.
Overall, this is a grand adventure route that goes to one of the best summits. Such a great, earned perspective of Yosemite Valley.

Thank you for your time. Hope someone enjoys this rig.

Bob Jensen


  Trip Report Views: 2,972
bob
About the Author
bob is a climber from .Near the Ditch

Comments
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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Aug 6, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
Looks like a grand adventure, Bob.
Thanks for sharing.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Aug 6, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
hey there say, bob... wow, thanks for this trip report...

very nice set up, and photos share...
very good angles and balance, too, as to the photos...

nice rocks, of course, :)

and neat little follow through, as to 'conquering the giant', :)


job well done, all around,

:)



please share again, when you get the next one,on your list, done, :)
happy good supertopo eve, to you!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Aug 6, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
I used to hike the gully west of there.
You can find more Lost Brother FA potential on Gigapan and Xrez.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 6, 2014 - 11:39pm PT
Best kind of TR is a TR of deep obscurity, and man did you provide in spades on that front. Thank you!

The Lost Bro is such an appealing formation, mostly because you hear so little info on it.

I've heard rumors of a soaring, perfect hand crack up there somewhere. Hadn't been climbed yet at the time of the telling, but irons were in the fire. Wonder if that went yet...

Have you done Wind Chill? That's a fantastic, semi-obscure line with plenty of lichen. You can link into it from Windfall or Wind Jammer - can't go wrong on either.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Aug 7, 2014 - 04:18am PT
WOW! Haha looks like le_bruce and I get drawn to the same stuff :)

Bob, this is a really great adventure, and that pic of the last pitch to the summit is wild and hairy looking. Does Eric have his own appreciation thread here yet?

Biotch, if you get benighted on Lower Brother and watch all the features that appear in the morning sunshine over on Lost Brother, that is enough to make you want to move up there and just spend weeks exploring.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Aug 7, 2014 - 05:33am PT
Sick slick slaying for sure. Dude.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Aug 7, 2014 - 06:03am PT
Thanks!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Aug 7, 2014 - 06:49am PT
i like this.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Aug 7, 2014 - 07:39am PT

Rad!!

loved your dreams and big gear warrior mind set!!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
  Aug 7, 2014 - 09:28am PT
Yeah Bob!

Lots of rock up there

If you like the shade you gotta like the lichen, eh?


Looks nice and wild.

Can you repost a larger topo image?
bob

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 7, 2014 - 08:22am PT
LeBruce : No haven't done windchill. Went to do it one day.......... yeah, yeah....yada yada. Didn't happen. :)

Nutagain: here's one http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1397202/Cheers-to-Eric-Gabel

Yeah Kevin, have to love that lichen!!! Was up climbing Gabel/Dignes on Supernova (mosstrum) and love that side. Definitely did some moss jamming. Quite soft on the back of the hands. Haunted House looks sick and will be done by me this year. Just plain fun looking! I sent you an email concerning the area, but think maybe you didn't get it. I'd love to chat about some stuff there and some other locations.
Goliath is a 5.10 route. Can you click the image then enlarge it? Its a pretty good sized image to keep it clear.

Thanks all. Glad this is getting some enjoyment.

Peace!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Aug 7, 2014 - 08:57am PT
Man that looks fun. Thanks for the great report.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
  Aug 7, 2014 - 10:55am PT
Yes Bob

Due to a domestic explosion I have no email and didn't receive your correspondence.

Haunted House is surprisingly good, I think you'll find. The first 30 ft corner's a bit verdant, but should be no big for a jungle explorer such as yourself. The roof on the second pitch is one of the wildest I've encountered, and the bulk of two pitches is amazingly clean and solid.

I'm sure you're scoping things I know too much about... Including stuff on Lost Brother.

I'll email you my ph #



guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Aug 7, 2014 - 11:05am PT
Awesome TR Bob-Thanks for the energy to put this all together.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Aug 7, 2014 - 11:24am PT
Good on you bob!

That is a nice chunk of stone, up till this year ignored for the most part.

Cheers!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Aug 8, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
kick azzz!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Aug 8, 2014 - 10:28pm PT
So nice to see Lost Brother getting the attention it deserves. Especially nice to see Goliath get done. That is a fantastic looking line.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
  Aug 8, 2014 - 11:09pm PT
Excellent !
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 9, 2014 - 08:44am PT
"So David triumphed over the Philistine with a sling and a stone; without a sword in his hand he struck down the Philistine and killed him."
1 Samuel 17:50

Well done lads. Well done.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 9, 2014 - 11:12am PT

Awesome. I'm not sure if that's better than the best trip report ever, though.
bob

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 10, 2014 - 08:28am PT
Micronut, then David used Goliath's sword to cut his head off from what I can gather. While getting some images for this TR I came accross this TED Talk concerning David and Goliath. Its an interesting take. To me, at least, with my less than adequate knowledge of the story. Its a short and fun listen though. That guy Malcolm Gladwell is a trip!

http://www.ted.com/talks/malcolm_gladwell_the_unheard_story_of_david_and_goliath

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 10, 2014 - 09:28am PT
Slaying it !!!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Aug 10, 2014 - 09:52am PT
2 Samuel 21:20 speaks about a man of great stature that had 6 fingers on each hand and 6 toes with a total of 24 fingers and toes. this mans is sometimes confused with Goliath. but there should be no confusion. this man was killed by Jonathan the son of Shimea, David's brother. so it is unknown if Goliath had 6 fingers.

So does(did) Goliath have a brother?
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
  Aug 10, 2014 - 09:43pm PT
that looks like a great route1 congratulations.
eagle

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
  Aug 19, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
AWESOME REPORT AND PHOTOS
LOOKS GOOD FROM NEW PALTZ
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Sep 26, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
Mega!

Always love your TRs bob. Quality stuff.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 27, 2014 - 02:03am PT
Woot
Woot
To you
the BOB Szz
For getting After it
And getting it done
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Sep 28, 2014 - 09:13am PT
Anything on Lost Brother is pretty rad....That's a tough approach. Damn good TR, fellas.....TFPU!!!!
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
  Sep 28, 2014 - 09:19am PT
Nice!
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
  Sep 28, 2014 - 02:51pm PT
yeah bob!
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
  Sep 29, 2014 - 03:39am PT
Nice job. Love hearing about adventures off the beaten path, they are often the finest.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 29, 2014 - 07:50am PT
Really cool report, thanks for sharing about these rarely do e climbs.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 29, 2014 - 08:56am PT
MikeL

Social climber
Seattle, WA
  Sep 29, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
First time I saw this.

Excellent, Bob. Real climbing and adventure. TFPU.
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