Prow C2F 5.6

 
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Washington Column


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
The Prow with Mickey (whitemeat)
Monday July 8, 2013 4:03pm
This past friday and saturday Mickey and I who met on the east buttress of middle cathedral made an attempt on the prow on washington colomn. This being my first wall made me very excited but slightly weary. I will say that my haul bag is no longer my hamper in curry village and now in actual use.

We met up at the ahwanee parking lot at 10 and packed kit (one metolius halfdome size bag) and hiked up to the base. We brought the gear listed below..

-metolius halfdome bag
-60m dynamic and 8m static for hauling
-triple set of cams
-single set of offsets
-2 sets of rp's and 1 set of offset rp's
-set of cam hooks, talon, bat hook, med pecker
-spaghetti o's..
-1.5 gallons per day per person
-ect

We made it to the base at 2pm to find a party on p4 and just as we started up p1, he ripped and took a 20 footer which set an interesting tone for the afternoon.

Mickey gettn stoked!
Mickey gettn stoked!
Credit: Jaysen

Mickey crushed the first pitch in under an hour and I jugged the line to the base of the c2+ pitch that apperantally used to be rated c3.

Mickey up p1
Mickey up p1
Credit: Jaysen

P2 was sustained and broken up by good pins, but otherwise i learned how to use Mickey's offset rp's real quick, even a cam hook. The last time i had been on this pitch my partner had blown the first move off the ledge to the pin and decked. It made the pitch seem kinda scary but once I got on it it was no big deal. I managed to remain calm through the duration of the crux climbing but once i made it to the thin hand crack before the anchors there was surely some long exhales. I moved into my crash course on hauling and couldn't believe how simple it was, not to mention i got to break in mickey's badass wall seat which i used at a wall ledge to stand on and dubbed it the "thank god ledge".

mickey and i on the ledge at the base of p4
mickey and i on the ledge at the base of p4
Credit: Jaysen

Mickey crushed p3 which involved some c2F which he claimed as no big deal. This put us at our bivy ledge. Mickey wipped out his plush runout customs ledge and we settled in for the night. This being my first wall experience also made it my first ledge experience. Im from new york so there aren't any real "bigwalls" so working in yosemite this summer has been my intro. Drank a few cobras (forgot mickey was 16 and then realized it wasn't weird when he dident want one) and put down some spagetti o's (my new favorite wall and ground food) and tried to get some sleep. Had a really hard time sleeping and at this point realized that i had been mildly gripped the whole time i was on the wall. I have always been good with short spurts of scary situations but this extended reality was a new feeling to me. While it dident paralyze me, it was something i was surprised was there.

on the wall
on the wall
Credit: Jaysen

Woke up and I was up to lead P4, this pitch ended up being the crux pitch for me, near the top there were a few back to back hooking moves that I weighted very lightly, also 3 or 4 fixed heads. At this point the party above us bailed passed up as mickey was jugging and mickey took p5 through the reachy bolt ladder.

We arrived at the base of p6 and with the goal of making it to p8 we decided to retreat. We couldn't spend another night because i had work in the morning and also it was hard to motivate to climb the next 2 pitches just to rep. I surely got my first wall experience, I felt like i climbed some real moderate aid. Even when we were bailing we were stoked, not a single fall, not a single error, pure bliss and smoothness. I feel like that not how walls usually go..

Mickey is gonna post his photos in the comments ( his are way better than mine and there are more of them) and hopefully i'll be doing lurking fear, the nose or halfdome soon. So keep an eye out for us. And im always looking for wall pertners!

  Trip Report Views: 1,326
Jaysen
About the Author
Jaysen is a trad climber from NY working the the park for the summer. A burrista at the pavilion coffee corner, come say hi!

Comments
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dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Jul 8, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Glad all went well on your first wall,cool TR. Thanks
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jul 8, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Sounds like it was a good learning experience for you.
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO
  Jul 8, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
"Taking down the Prow?"

Huh? It's still standing, isn't it?

Title's a tad hubristic. How about a little respect, awe and wonder for the rock and route?
amac

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
  Jul 8, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
Nice TR and nice to meet you. Guess you did not score the booty on 6?
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 8, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
Way to get after it! Thanks for the report. Now get back up there and top it out!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Jul 8, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
Rock on!! Dont be hard on yourself, I bailed on the Prow last week for various reasons but it was a great learning experience. Pitch 2 off the ledge was fun working the cam hooks and Tomahawks. I'll be back.
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Jul 8, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
nice TR jaysen!

here are my photos!
where it all started!
where it all started!
Credit: whitemeat
one of our many breaks on the approach
one of our many breaks on the approach
Credit: whitemeat
jaysen jugging pitch 1
jaysen jugging pitch 1
Credit: whitemeat
"thank god ledge" is pretty much the best thing ever!
"thank god ledge" is pretty much the best thing ever!
Credit: whitemeat
half dome is kinda neat!
half dome is kinda neat!
Credit: whitemeat
me leading pitch 3
me leading pitch 3
Credit: whitemeat
jaysen likes "thank god ledge" too!
jaysen likes "thank god ledge" too!
Credit: whitemeat
upward and onward!
upward and onward!
Credit: whitemeat
good wall anchor methinks!
good wall anchor methinks!
Credit: whitemeat
the heat is so much fun
the heat is so much fun
Credit: whitemeat
this pitch looks fun, and was very fun!
this pitch looks fun, and was very fun!
Credit: whitemeat
jaysen "ridding the pig"
jaysen "ridding the pig"
Credit: whitemeat
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Jul 8, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
PS: on pitch 1 when you transition from the top of jojo to the more steep stuff, there is a pretty big loose block that is very dangerous! be careful
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 9, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
Great job guys, no longer a wall virgin!!!!
hagerty

Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
  Jul 9, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
Good job! TFPU! But I'm confused: this being your first wall, were you actually weary before starting or just wary? ;-)
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
  Jul 9, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
Good job on your first wall experience! I do have a little problem with the title of your TR, because you finished it going downward rather than upward, therefore The Prow took you down, not the other way around. But you got up there and hung it all out, which is more than alot of people can say!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jul 9, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
I was gripped on my first wall and bailed after about 6 or 8 pitches
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
Author's Reply  Jul 10, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
In retrospect i kinda wish we had punched out the next 3 pitches since we had the time and water, but im sure every wall you dont top out has alot of what iff's.. Im still curious as to how strange the strange dihedral is
nopantsben

climber
  Jul 10, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Nice!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 10, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
top it, you got this!
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