Excalibur A3 5.8

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Old Walls, Excalibur, Deuce Inspired
Friday January 30, 2009 2:53pm
Deuce has inspired me to not care so much about what order everything is in and whether it's all captioned or not.
Just get 'em up there!

Here's the first installment. I'll have to finish later.


Thanks for looking.
Bruce






















  Trip Report Views: 4,089
survival
About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme.

Comments
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deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
  Jan 30, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
Cool!
Elcap76

Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
  Jan 30, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
Very nice photos!
Thanks for sharing.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
Next installment.









































You can see another party in these pix once in awhile.
BooYah

Social climber
Ely, Nv
  Jan 30, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
This is pretty cool.
Thanks for all the picss.
Peewee

Trad climber
Quebec
  Jan 30, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
Fire one Tommy Caldwell to Free climb this route...
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
  Jan 30, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
Cool pics. Really can see why it was rarely climbed before the advent of the mongo cams. Like the old garb.

Say, I was glad to see the pic of the Spider's Web. I never had the inclination to take out the camera at this point, but always look up at the thing. It would make a cool climb out the center of it.


survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
Yeah John,
I have always loved the spiders web too.

Free climbing..you bet.
Tommy C. , Steve Schneider whoever.

I thought it was burly enough just to free up to 5.10 something!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
A few more and a few later!

















'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jan 30, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
Ah yes, the ghetto blaster in the Round Table - I love that picture of yours. I brought my ghetto blaster too, and of course my coffee press.





How did yous guys outwit the offwidths? You can see how we did it in the portaledge photo above....

Nice photos, mate! Thanks for posting.

I still think Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivi is one of the most amazing places ever on El Cap - I love it! Then again, I'm a caver.....



You can click here to read [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Big_Wall/Two_Ugly_Dudes_on_Day_11_-_Photo_1_of_5_5645.html"]a little photo essay on Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivi on Excalibur.[/url]
Double D

climber
  Jan 30, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
Way cool!

But what's up with the speedo's?

(-;
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
  Jan 30, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
x-o-lente!!! Great photos, just goes to show,
who cares about the small details! Just get them
posted! Looks like you had a blast, although I pefer
boxers! Freedom in the hills!!!!



Ciao,
Thor

P.S. That is a big cam, Pass the Pitons!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 30, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
really, families surf here!

nice, well not, 'stuff', but cool pictures!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
  Jan 30, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
Thanks for posting the great pics. The quality of the photos is so good, my connection keeps crashing trying to keep up with them.

Excalibur is a great, unheralded line on El Cap. Except for the loose choss in the Slack chimney at the start of the route, the rock is stellar, and the isolation from other routes keeps it from seeming like just another freeway in a crowded lithopolis.


Another bonus is seeing each photo and reliving that portion of the route, sorta like a web-based time machine.


EDIT:

Here are my captions for Survival's TR up Excalibur. Basically, I've tried to be accurate in pinpointing the location of each photo, based on memory.

And, what a great trip back into the past I've just had.







Jugging from the base

Jugging the haul ropes, left of the Slack

Fixed ropes over the Slack roof

Belaying the traverse pitch from the top of the Slack

Rivet ladder, about P5-P6

Union Climbers hauling the Fake Blast fixed ropes to Heart Ledge

P6, a Charlie Porter kb/rurp masterpiece

not sure; the pitch above Guenivere's Bed bivy ledge?

unknown, but high on the route; say, within three pitches of the Round Table bivy.

P4, moving left out from under the Slack roof.

P4, moving left, out from under the Slack roof.

The P4-P5 rivet ladder?

Start of P7, with the Holy Grail within sight/reach

About halfway up, possibly Lancelot's Slot.

amnesia

Glass Slab, P25, only one more to the summit.

P9, a clean, no smears, overhanging 5.12 OW that is also challenging at C1

amnesia

Excalibur tops out at the Salathe Tree, but comes in on an orthogonal line

Horsetail Falls bathing facility (same as Camp 4: no hot water)

unknown/amnesia

Higher up on P24, waking up, out of Frosty's Bivy

unknown/amnesia

East Ledges Descent, just after the scary slab traverse at the Wild Dikes

unknown, some tree with a rope tied to it

unknown

Rope leading to the Round Table bivy (oooh, what a nice spot that was!)

Looking down from the Round Table

unknown

P26, the pitch to the summit

On the summit, west of the Salathe Tree

Jugging to Frosty's Bivy

P10, entering the maw of the monster

P7, the monster has not yet reared its beautiful, wide self

unknown

Slack chimney?

P24, coming out of Frosty's Bivy

P24, some really, really, good rock here, by the way

summit

Guenivere's Bed ledge


Apology Edit: I don't think anybody but me is going to look at the captions, and then compare them to the photos. There is some sort of web-tech that can do this, but, I'm not the guy to do it.
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
  Jan 30, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
Schaaaaweeet!
WBraun

climber
  Jan 30, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
Good job survival, Excalibur is a beaut.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
Thanks Werner.

PTPP, we only had three "big" pieces. You can see me "jugging" one of the wide pitches, and basically taking a 3 piece anchor up the whole pitch with no pro!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jan 31, 2009 - 12:01am PT
Hey, Thor, Tom makes those mighty cams.....

He can be your CamSmith.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2009 - 12:02am PT
One more bunch for the party.



















SammyLee2

Trad climber
Memphis, TN
  Jan 31, 2009 - 12:21am PT
Super nice! I love the randomness of it all. You never know what's below. Kinda like life, I guess. ;)

Time and age are running out on me. Maybe I can get a wall in before it's too late.
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jan 31, 2009 - 12:39am PT
Never too late, SnakeBoy.....Ask Frost.

Is true. Walls are forever.
I was gonna Frosty Bump, too.

Frosty's!!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
  Jan 31, 2009 - 12:45am PT
I'll add these location captions (at my age, guesses):


P?, moving left from the top of the Slack

unknown

Slack Chimney, from the top of the Sacherer Cracker

Slack Chimney; the tree is about where the Heart Route goes right

unknown

unknown

The view across the El Cap wall, nobody to be seen

Haul bag, arriving at Frosty's Bivy

P24, the Jewel of the Cap

P22? just above the Round Table? Just below Frosty's?



EDIT: those photos of P24 should be enough. Excalibur has some great rock, and rarely seen.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2009 - 12:46am PT
FROSTY'S!!

The picture of me rapping with the green water bottle...That bottle was the precious elixer that I found in Frosty's!!

Sammy 2, Go for it man, never give up. You can do it.
I'm feeling the jones myself....
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2009 - 01:01am PT
Wow Tom, I just went back and looked at your captions.

Holy buckets, your recollector is a lot better'n mine.
I guess that means I burned more bush up there...or in life!

Thanks man.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
  Jan 31, 2009 - 01:02am PT
Nice shots Survival. When did you guys do it? I did it in late September 1989, with an English friend, which kind of added to it.

Here's one of me on (in?) Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivy:





It was so tight that I had to lay down face up or face down; my hips were too wide to allow me to roll over. And the corner there was too funky to let us set up the ledge.

I'd "grown up" with the Meyers picture book of the Valley. So taking this shot of my partner was a natural:




Anyone who's got that book will recognize the shot. I think we took a lot fewer photos than you though, these are the only two I have scanned.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
  Jan 31, 2009 - 01:12am PT
Storm Situation Damage Control: Excalibur

The huge roof at the top of P10 can save many lives, protected and with a roof crack for portaledges that is about green camalot.

Frosty's Bivy, inside the horizontal squeeze chimney, is totally dry, and if that fissure was, say, four feet instead of one, I would live there, rent-free. Frosty's bivy wins the great/weird bivy championship, with a good nod to the fact that it stays dry, all the time (the smell of the dust is so dry, you know it). There is a roomy (sic) spot inside, and you can actually turn over from your tummy to your back. There is no room for your haul bags inside the Frosty bivy, but in a weather emergency, I would rather be there, than any other place on El Cap.

A close second is in my portaledge, at the top of Excalibur's P10. This bombay chimney thing has the goods (great roof crack) to be a veritable tenant housing authority for the Parks Department Rescue Squad (SAR).


Excalibur, for me, was a great wall.
SammyLee2

Trad climber
Memphis, TN
  Jan 31, 2009 - 01:17am PT
Captain and Survival,

Thanks for the "Go for it!" I just may have to get Karl to take me up a wall. Last time I mentioned it he said, "You'll need a day or two of aid practice then we can go." He also told me that most folks he takes to El Cap, want to come down after the first night, due to exposure. I told him that I loved exposure. He said, "There is exposure and then there is EXPOSURE. Twenty pitches up on El Cap, you fling a booger off and it touches nothing till it hits the ground." Made me think.

Karl kinda has a way with words, you know. "You B!tch! You short-roped me! I'm gonna die now you bastard!" Just ask Crimpie. Funny how laughter came after such a comment.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
  Jan 31, 2009 - 02:05am PT
Excalibur, and other El Capitan Walls, comes at you, and keeps coming at you. You paddle toward the swell, but, it rises so fast, you think you are going to die. As the Wall crests, ready to break, you're a few pitches from the summit, but it looks like you're going over the falls. At the last possible moment, you've paddled over the crest, and the wall of disaster has suddenly moved behind you, and you are safe.

You have ridden the El Cap wall. Not down it, but up and over its crest, and to safety.


There is no route called Maverick's, but the idea is the same.

You've ridden out the smaller Big Ones. You wait for the perfect moment, to decide to take off and experience the Big Wall.

You've just barely lived through the last one, so, why not paddle out, for another taste of La Dolce Vita?


A television story can talk about a man who is a junkie craving a needle, but this time, it's different. Our man is a dirtbag craving a rack of pitons, a dark night score in Camp 4, and he's obsessed and addicted, and there's no turning him back:

Reticent Wall

(a mother's whimper, real, but we'll use it for effect as part of the television show we'll proffer to the craven masses, a toxic glare that infects the National Livingroom . . . .)
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jan 31, 2009 - 03:53am PT
Sammy wrote

"Karl kinda has a way with words, you know. "You B!tch! You short-roped me! I'm gonna die now you bastard!" Just ask Crimpie. Funny how laughter came after such a comment."

Sammy has a way of spicing up a story! (although I can snappy about short roping on occasion) (if we climb something, we'll have to take lots of pictures so we can remember which parts of our stories are lies or facts)

Pete, why bother with coffee if you sleep until noon?!

Nice to see all the ins and outs of all these el cap routes. Between these and Tom's pics, it's like window shopping for timeshares in hell.

Peace

karl
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2009 - 07:03am PT
"It's like window shopping for timeshares in hell."

Damn Karl, you do have a way with words!!

Excalibur was a great experience for us. I feel lucky to have learned young that it was more about who I was with than what I climbed.

I started climbing with Keith when I was 15 yrs old. Excalibur was our 3rd El Cap route together and our sixth grade VI.

It took us a week, including a day of rest early on. There's a long, thin sloping ledge where we hung out for a day. My hands were pretty swollen as I acclimated to the wall, and I felt like I had some kind of stomach issue, so it was great to just sit. I have a couple photos of that ledge I'll put in here tomorrow.

Sammy, I really do wish all the best to you. The pull of that stone is something that normal people just can't understand. And for those of us that feel the pull...well, there really is no other way to fix it.

I am really feeling the pull again myself. The great magnet, my old friend, the damn giant mighty mecca stone standing there quietly waiting for us until our fragile muscles and bones wear out....and then it goes on standing there waiting for the next group.

I think El Cap loves all the little ants crawling on him. He doesn't even mind the trash, the ropes, and the piss too much.
It will all wash away in a few thousand years anyway. He's got time.........
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jan 31, 2009 - 10:43am PT
Karl - you can see in this photo that I'm still in the shade, therefore it's still morning.



Tom made his own portaledge for this wall, and enjoys his coffee and cams in the "cantilevered" style.



He, um, needed a bit of work on his portaledge fly design, however.



So it's the middle of the night, and it's raining. Tom is sitting on his ledge - upright - holding the collapsed rainfly above him.

"Tom - are you OK, dude?! Do you need to come under my fly?"

"No!" he replied back excitedly, apparently enjoying himself immensely. "I'm just gonna hold the fly over me for a few more hours until the cold front arrives. That way I can keep all my clothes and sleeping bag dry. Once it gets cold, the rain will stop, and I'll get set up then. That's what Royal Robbins says to do."

It worked for Tom, too.

P.S. Tom - I still don't have a confirmed partner for the spring wall season, and Pacemaker needs a fourth ascent, along with a few new bolts. You should see these swell new tuning forks that Theron made for me. [HINT]
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jan 31, 2009 - 10:52am PT
Proud.
kevsteele

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
  Jan 31, 2009 - 12:29pm PT
A few Excalibur shots:


Pitch 6, Kevin Brown on the great thinness before the great wideness.





survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
Nice pix you guys!!!

I love that fish-eye thing!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jan 31, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
Eyeing Half Dome...
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jan 31, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
He is, isn't he?

Plotting for the future.........
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 05:51am PT
A little artwork,
Forgive me...I couldn't stop myself.





Mike.

climber
  Feb 1, 2009 - 06:01am PT
Cool pix and art!

Great idea, surv.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
Thanks Mike.

Have a Super Sunday everyone!


Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 1, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
Pitch 6, the ' A-5 pitch'. When we did it that was Dru's lead (his first wall)

"This is so scary."
"Any of this stuff could blow"
"I could die at any time."


"This is so, Coool!"
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 1, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
I'm indifferent.

I like rocks. Knott very "DayGlo", I guess.
Hey, as long as YOU enjoy it, cool.
But I like Rocks. Hopefully Rocky looking rocks.


Good on ya.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
C'mon Captain...loosen up.
They ARE rocky lookin' rocks!
I'm cool either way, I just like to mix it up a little.
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 1, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
Oh, you're good.....No worries.

I'm just knott all "daygloey".

I wasn't much for Neiman, either. No offense, dude.
Rocks have so much in them. So much, Ya know?

Wow. Floors me, every time.
I'll be in the car.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
I dig it.

You just cracked me up, totally worth it.
I have some more "Old" TRs to do for those of you that enjoy.

I'll try not to over do the special effects just for you man.
But I have to throw in a couple for my own entertainment!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 1, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
Hey, it's your show, Bro.....I'm just the peanut gallery.

Groove on at your discretion.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
Groovy baby.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 1, 2009 - 09:34pm PT



and on the summit






I'm the one with the hat, the rest is pure Dru!

Note my cool shoes! Don't step on'em. Don't you wish you had some?

Speaking of Deuce, we took a dble decker, Wall cabana (ignore this, Mussy) on that ascent. I got to be the bottom And the top.
Mike.

climber
  Feb 1, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
J-Bro, dialog...hehe.

Good to see so many cool shots since I have exactly zero of my time up there. Kev Steele, wow, man. Sweet stuff.

Tom, that's a steel trap ya got there. Half of the pix I saw had me thinking "cool...I climbed that?"


This thread is a great example of what put ST on the map, and why it's still a cool place if you do some serious weeding. Thanks to all for posting up.

Mike.

climber
  Feb 1, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
Yes, dialog...

(Opening scene, been belaying for 4.5 hours on A2 pitch, silent stillness has set in for several minutes)

What's going on up there?.............What's up, man?
This is just really thin...(indiscernable).....
How far to the belay?
Two feet! How much rope is left?
None!
I don't have the gear to make this move.
Get to the belay!
(indiscernable)

(Several minutes later)
How much rope is left?...
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 1, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
Hey, I've BEEN the guy......"what the HELL do you mean, there's NO rope? It's ONE move away........"
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
Mike and Captain,

Those are funny posts...we've all been there!

Jaybro, what happened to your image?
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 1, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
I was wonderin' also...........


Well? Hello? Is this thing on?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 1, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
Okay, copacetic 'nsh#t



Scroll back to see the missing action photos such as they are. Or I can post the whole thing here...

Dru took pictures of me valiantly not free-ing the first wide pitch, and there may be ones of me onsighting the piitch above. I gotta scour the archives, and then see if the scanner stlill works...

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 01:39am PT
Nice job Jaybro!!
Buggs

Trad climber
Corrales, New Mexico
  Feb 2, 2009 - 01:55am PT
This doesn't look safe...

All these guys look scary...

Where does the sh#t go?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 08:55am PT
Hi Buggs,

well of course, there's a little fecae fairy that hangs out right below the ledge and cleans that sh*t up!

Nah, it's not scarey....just kind of like dreaming, after the oxy kicks in.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Feb 2, 2009 - 09:20am PT
Woo hoo!!!!

Great stuff, all!
Thanx for the ride!
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Feb 2, 2009 - 09:53am PT
"Nah, it's not scarey....just kind of like dreaming, after the oxy kicks in."

HAHAHAHHHAHHAHAAAAAAHA.

It is great to see you old trad dads when you weren't soooooo old.
Lots of cheesecake shots there. Not that there is anything wrong with that. hehe
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 10:47am PT
Oh yeah??

Let's see some cheesecake pix of you when YOU weren't quite so old...ya damn disrespectful whelp!
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Feb 2, 2009 - 11:24am PT
Careful what you wish for.....


I know it is not exactly a climbing pic but I was doing a lot of climbing in those days.
And it is pretty cheesycake.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 11:41am PT
OK, I was looking for my favorite photo from this adventure, which I can't seem to find for some stupid reason..GRRRRRRRR...

But here is the last batch of cheesecake for Philo, including the small ledge that we spent a whole day on, and the full scope of the haul pigs.

I took a pic of the slabs, and I'm almost positive there's a party down there. Is it possible that it's the Wings Of Steel guys? They were on that slab the whole time we were on this route, if I recall. Anyway, we were there in 96 so I don't know how that jives with W.O.S.....















survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 11:44am PT
Oh my gawd Phil, I just saw your post.

You talkin' cheese over the top cheese!

You win the contest bro...I can't top that...unless I dig around for awhile.

Were you ever that young???
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Feb 2, 2009 - 11:48am PT
That's a whole lot a STONE in them pictures there. Really great thread. But look at you oh bearded one. All gussied up like a shoot for a Peter Storm ad.



"Were you ever that young???"

Only once but it was over before I recognized the wonder of it all.
How are the new digs?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 11:51am PT
Ho mahn...you got me spittin' up a lung over here.
That REALLY cracked me up!

edit:

The new digs are awesome man. There's a cool area about an hour from here that's not in the Sandias. Also, did you see the "undisclosed location" thread? I forget.

I love it here on the farm, and you're welcome to come check it out someday.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 11:56am PT
Phil, check the "edit" above.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Feb 2, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
At first I thought Undisclosed Location was the title to the latest Star Trek flick so of course I checked it out. VERY COOOOOOL! Tempting and teasy. It would be a hoot to head your way someday.
Now back to the OLD WALLS.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
  Feb 2, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
I got thoroughly distracted by this thread...so kickass!

Thanks for all the goodness!

Cheers!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
I think I will shoot for doing the South Face of Watkins thread next.

But damn it takes a lot of time to do all the scanning and sizing stuff. I think a lot of folks don't appreciate what it takes to put a whole bunch of photos together for this here 'lectric picture radio.....
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Feb 2, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
Well quit phaffin' and wingin' so we can be appreciatin'.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
Not until I see some more dance photos of you.

You and Maysho could put a hell of a thread together!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 2, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
What Philo said.............ditto.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
Thanks Cap'n.

Just for you.

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 4, 2009 - 02:05am PT
Bump. Just cause I feel like it,
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
  Feb 4, 2009 - 03:08am PT
There are only two type of people:

People who love the Excalibur,
and People who want to do the Excalibur.


 Dr. Johnson
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 4, 2009 - 09:33am PT
Can you dig it?

I knew that you could.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 4, 2009 - 11:04am PT
Yeah man...I can dig it.

Hey Cap'n, know where that day glo rock above is at?
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 4, 2009 - 11:30am PT
I dunno, Mars?

Seen it before, somewhere.........I give up.
Trick question, maybe? You artsy types are tricky........... ;-)
Mike.

climber
  Feb 4, 2009 - 11:53am PT
survi, you're looking pretty irie in that third pic down...whatcha doin? ; } Sweet additions to the image gallery on this.


Heh, Tom. I'd say there's two kindsa wall rats...those who enjoy pix of Excal, and those who saddle up.

Porter described the belay gear for the wide stuff: Large aluminum blocks with a notch cut in one end to accept an angle piton. He chuckled, "hehehe, those things were bomber!"
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 4, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
Captain,

It's that trippy summit headstone block/pillar in the Needles.
I forget what it's on top of. Of course there's a normal pic of it in my Needles thread from a ways back.

Mike. That's Keith in the third shot down.
I'm the flake with the beard!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 5, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
Flake?
I think knott, sir.
You rule.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Feb 5, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
Thanks for your kind words.
Where did that bitchin' handle of yours come from?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 2, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
April bump for one of my favorite climbing threads.....
Hellooooo? Hankster???
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Apr 2, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
Hey survival
you should have titled it 'deuce indeuced'!


LOL!!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 2, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
Next time I'll do that!
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Jun 2, 2009 - 02:18am PT
BUMP!!!

thanks for posting up even if it took me 6 months to find it!

looks sweet!

Jaybro, u found the first hard OW pitch harder than the second? and how'd the third one go? (3 hard ones in a row yeah? b,c,d)

cheers,

patrick

edit: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/excal.htm cool article about the wideness, im sure some have seen
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 2, 2009 - 09:33am PT
PK,
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'll check that link out.

I'm just glad that there are some who will surf backwards around here at times.......
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
  Jun 4, 2009 - 02:39am PT
Great stuff. Thanks.

If its kosher I might post up some from when Bill Price and I did it in 1978. The pics are super, I'd forgotten about the Roundtable!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 4, 2009 - 09:48am PT
Fuzzy,
I would love to see that!
Bill P is the sh*t, big respect for that guy back in the day.
I'd love to see some pix of you guys.
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
  Jun 5, 2009 - 03:38am PT
I had never climbed with Bill. We had met of course, but Vern had to leave the Valley (super rainy spring) so there I was standing out side the MRB and I just put it out there to all hangers, "Anybody want to climb Excaliber?" He instantly said yes - and I think we went up the next day to check the loads that were below the rurp pitch. They had weather (a month?) We needed to see if the gorp was moldy etc.

We had a fantastic time up there. Really my most adventurous rt as it was the second rt up the Captain for both of us. Perfect weather. Bill was a great partner, steady, fun and always relaxed.

I have a bunch more photos and have been wanting to scan them. I'll work on it.








survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 5, 2009 - 04:35am PT
mmmmmm, yummy, that hammock bivvy looks soooo comfy!!!
Great pictures!

Glad I didn't have to deal with all the bongs and blocks too.
I "jugged" that pitch with three big cams......

My P.O. partner, Bob Williams, loved Bill Price.
I never got to climb with Bill.
What's he up to??
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Jun 8, 2009 - 12:35pm PT
very cool! thanks for posting up!!!

the bong sandwiches look pretty scary......are they any good?

thinkin' im liking the technology options for that pitch!

patrick
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 8, 2009 - 01:05pm PT
Awesome old school Pics, FuzzyWuzzy!
That's the SHIZZ!
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
  Jun 13, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
Amazing pictures,
Nature did you notice the black thong in the first posts or so?.....;)
Mike.

climber
  Jun 13, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
Bump for bandanas, ovals and bravado.

Excalibur should be getting way more traffic than it is. The couple of wide cracks thin out the suitors, but I wonder how many know what good thin crack and hooking pitches are on the route. A Charlie Porter masterpiece with varied climbing, a great line and position, great bivies.
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jul 10, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
It's a Line.
Very proud, still. It's Excalibur.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 11, 2009 - 01:23am PT
Cool! Bong sandwhiches, just like the photo in Yosemite Climber.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Jul 11, 2009 - 02:34am PT
Cool stuff FuzzDaddy!

On my monitor the pic of Bill was too dark to see his face.... here is lighter version, if you approve.

Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
  Nov 11, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
Talking with Hugh this summer he mentioned that Excaliber was his favorite route up El Cap. Said it was because it required everything - wide, thin, free etc. A bold natural line.

Great photos. BTW you can rap to El Cap Spire for another great ledge bivy.

TC
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 18, 2011 - 09:56am PT
Hey Fuzzy, wha happ to yo photogs??
tom Carter

Social climber
  May 18, 2011 - 12:32pm PT












Don't know ...but here are a couple of them.

TC
tom Carter

Social climber
  May 18, 2011 - 12:51pm PT


On top. We hiked back in with Rob Ramey and drug our stuff down together.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 18, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
Damn that's a lot of wood to haul around!! Did people just take the slings off and leave all those blocks on top, or carry 'em back down?

I don't remember seeing any on the summit.....
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  May 18, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
Great shots, Tom!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  May 18, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
Nice shots Survival and Tommy lad.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  May 18, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
Nice Shots everyone!

Next on my list of Charlie Porter and Hugh Burton classics!

Sure looks sweet...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 18, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
Awesome pics bruce, with the exception of you in your bikini...:)
Double D

climber
  May 19, 2011 - 11:41am PT
This is a great picture... just cleaned it up a bit for ya.
This is a great picture... just cleaned it up a bit for ya.
Credit: Double D

Tom Carter... nice ones!
this just in

climber
north fork
  May 19, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
Bumping one of the best trip reports. Nice old photos, thanks.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 19, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
Thanks Double D, that is the ledge where I sprinkled a small tin of my dad's ashes. It was perfectly calm, right at sunset, when I tipped the tin out into space. The ashes descended a short distance and then a puff of air lifted them up and sprinkled them lightly over Keith and I. It was amazing and seemed meant-to-be.
tom Carter

Social climber
  May 19, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
Cool story of your Dad's ashes.

Here another shot of Bill on the Round Table bivy.



Thanks all!

TC
this just in

climber
north fork
  May 19, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
That's cool Survival. I too want to be spread into my favorite climbing area when it's my time. Hopefully not anytime soon.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  May 19, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
Serious lumber BITD . . . bad ass TR.

Thanks!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  May 19, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
F*#kin epic!

That shot dd reposted, actually the one after it(pulled back ), was my favorite. What an amazing spot.
Then I read about your dad's ashes.
Wow Bruce, this must have been a special climb for you.

Thanks a lot for posting this.


Yeah, coulda done without the speedos. :^0 !!!
Double D

climber
  May 20, 2011 - 12:59am PT
Cool story Survival.
TC thanks for posting up the picts of BP, I knew you'd eventually come through with em. Excal and Tissack were definitely daunting walls with a "longshoreman-esque" demeanor.
tom Carter

Social climber
  May 20, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
DD awesome to see and hear your stuff here too!

I promise I will get with it someday and do a post of the 2nd ascent with Bill back in 78.

Those pics of Kevin Steele's are terrific. I remember that rurp pitch.

So one day I go up with Walter to finish that pitch. I'm nailing away - Walter was belaying me. He wanted to see what was up with the pitch. I look down and ask, "Walter, how am I doing"?

Walter laughs and replies, "If you proceed like that YOU are gunna die"!

Silence..... "I'm all ears Walter - walk me through it"!!!!!

So Walter, step by step relates the system of clipping in aiders, daisys, how to test etc and tells me he wants to hear those racks as I impact the placement.

Thanks Walter!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 15, 2012 - 01:16am PT
Props to survival for constantly putting up good climbing material. You must have taken a lot of pictures back in the day and do a lot of scanning today. Nice job much appreciated.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Jul 13, 2012 - 09:31am PT
zoom!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 13, 2012 - 11:50am PT
Thanks for the bump Weedge! Now I'm all warm 'n' fuzzy 'n' sh#t....

That may be the shortest post you ever made!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
  Jul 13, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
Now thats f*#king trip report

very cool!
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Jul 13, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
sir vival
you should feel keen
for you sent this stout route
back in the day where large cams were worn in your underwear,
and you've no f*#king helmet, jesus mustuv saved you,
it does us newcomers good to understand
that these routes that we prove ourselves upon
were accomplished in much bolder and more challenging
circumstances before us.

no matter my mountain travels,
i cannot find in my mind,
arrogance
nor in my heart,
pride.

truely whenever i look with end either biological entity,
i find a whither drunk.
which is not out of line, at all.
everything is just as it wants to be.

Hey we should climb at the leap.

i was thinking something like:
five 5.8 pitches,
five 5.9 pitches,
five 5.10 pitches.

for that play has a certain gerryesque
tune with it.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 13, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
I would love to go to the Leap with you Chuck. I need you and my new friend "Craig" to show me around, beat me up, spank me down, and teach me some gawdamn manners!!
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
North Rim, AZ
  Jul 25, 2012 - 11:02am PT
Wow- amazing to see grass at the Salathe top out. I was shocked when topping out on Excalibur to find myself at the Salathe. Interestingly, when E and I climbed Excalibur we also watched climbers on the slab the entire time--Ammon on Wings.
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El Capitan - Excalibur A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Excalibur is route number 4.
Photo: Tom Frost
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