Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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You need 9 inch cams or wooden shims for the wide stuff. The belays at the top of P7 and P8 need gear for the crack; the post-FA bolts there are not particularly good. The top of P10 is a big bombay cave with a perfect hand-cam crack in the roof, and would make a great storm bivy. You can link P24 and P25 with a 60m rope; back-clean all of P25 to leave a straight shot for the cleaner. We left our pigs at the P26 belay bolts, and then did the last two pitches to the summit. The next day, I rapped down to the pigs from about forty feet West of the Salathe top-out tree on a 60m rope. It was a straight, free-hanging haul. Rap from the base of a ten-foot high sloping "headwall" about 30-40 feet East of where the route comes over the rim. You need some creativity to get a good anchor there. Hauling across the slab traverse of P27, then up the OW and chimney of P28 would be a nightmare.
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Tom
Advanced climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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How wide are the biggest offwidths on this route? Do #6 Friends fit, or do you need bigger cams?
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Excalibur is route number 4.Photo: Tom Frost
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