Trip Report
Not in the Meadows
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Wednesday August 17, 2011 11:18am
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I have wanted to climb Crest Jewel for at least 5 years. I never got around to it. As time goes by, my goals and dreams seem to march farther and farther out of reach. Maybe I could actually get one of them done!
It seemed like everyone I talked to had done it already, (and probably thought I would stick then with the hard leads)
I sent out a request last week to a bunch of local climbers for climbing in the Meadows, with Crest Jewel on my list, and Linda replied 'Crest Jewel isnt in the Meadows'. Well, technically its not, but I was planning on approaching from the top, so it *kind of* counts.
David replied he was interested, and I offered up that I would take the crux pitches. Heck, I wasnt even 100% that I could lead them.
Off we go!
Why do people build these large cairns?
Taking a shot of half dome...
The cathedrals, look at all the smoke in the valley.
Finally the top of North Dome in sight. Notice the smoke in the background.
We drop extra stuff at the top of the dome, and head down. I made a mistake that morning, I should have brought an extra liter of water and dropped it at the top. I ran out late in the climb, and begged water from some hikers halfway back to the trailhead. "How are you? I am thirsty, that water looks awful good"
We ended up bushwhacking a bit. I made a mental note to go farther right and lower next time. Finally above the start.
There was smoke over on half dome now.
The valley was looking very smokey.
I linked P1 and 2 together. The climbing was well protected, but the 5.10a on the second pitch did feel hard. The view from the 2nd belay...
David following Pitch 1 and 2:
David led off P3. Here he is after doing the traverse.
These are possibly from Pitch 4 or 6. The cam placement shown in the topo on Pitch 4 has either blown out or I totally missed it. My 0.5 " camalot was dead weight. I just climbed past the roof to the next bolt.
David leading pitch 5 (or 7)
Looking back on the crux traverse. This pitch was very fun and kind of heady to lead.
Summit shot with Half Dome.
The smoke shown in an earlier picture was a portent for helicopter water drops later in the day:
Clouds rest shot, for no good reason.
Then we hiked out. Dinner was at Lembert Dome parking lot. I tried to catch the Alpenglow with this shot.
Steve
Pictures taken with a Nikon Coolpix P100. Too big for climbing really, but its the only good camera I have right now, I wear it on a waist pouch. The telephoto on the camera does pretty well with the chopper shot I think.
spyork
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About the Author spyork is a social climber from A prison of my own creation. |
Comments
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:31am PT
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cool...more pics !
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:33am PT
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so far so good, Steve
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:33am PT
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A really enjoyable report. Are there many fires outside of the park
now? There haven't been any reports in the news (at least in Colorado),
about them.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
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Nice Steve. looking forward to more.
I'm going to be the only climber who has never done this route.... I've wanted to do it since it was in Green, ring top Meyers...
Edit; there's a bunch of fires here in Wyo. saw one south of Newcastle and one south of the needles south Dakota, Monday.
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Author's Reply
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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Thanks! I got more pics to put up, plus David started sending me some of his. I will complete this tall tale tonight.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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Awesome Spyork, way to get one goal done!!!
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Zander
climber
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Aug 22, 2011 - 05:56pm PT
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Allright! And nice hat.
Z
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okie
Trad climber
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Aug 17, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
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Cool. I've never done it. Looks beautiful.
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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It was my 1st time on Crest Jewel, but I had climbed the South Face of North Dome. Shown below, from the start of Crest Jewel. Several times I'd read people claiming Crest Jewel was easier, despite being 5.10 vs 5.8 (or stout 5.7, depending on who you read).
FACT: CREST JEWEL IS HARDER THAN THE SOUTH FACE!!!!
Well it's 5.10a slab vs 5.8 (or stout 5.7), what would you expect? Not sure why people prefer to link Crest Jewel with Royal Arches. Maybe they think a bolted route is faster? I understand linking RA with Crest Jewel direct start, since the approach is simpler. If you want to climb 5.10d slab...
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
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Steve, I'm glad we got to climb together again, and I'm glad that alternating pitches gave you both cruxes!
It was nice being up there mostly above the valley smoke.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 09:32am PT
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Nice TR!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 09:41am PT
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Jaybro, I've never gotten around to doing it either! I was at the base once with two friends - we we're planning on doing the RA/Crest Jewel link up, but some clouds were forming so I volunteered to hike back down to the Valley and get the car up to Porcupine Flat to pick them up. So close!
Let's make a date to do it together sometime within the next 10-20 years. P.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 18, 2011 - 09:46am PT
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Very nice report. Hope the fires don't get too bad.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 18, 2011 - 09:46am PT
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You're on, Phyl!
Nice adventure, Spy y Tex-Em!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
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Sweet Ride!!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Aug 18, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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bump
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Wonderso
climber
SF Bay Area
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Aug 18, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
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Hey Steve! Great photo's from your camera! I love the sense of height! Not all cams can do that. Plus they look all old timey; I like that. Beautiful finish too with that gorgeous golden sunset light! What a day! It makes me feel even more trapped in this dang cubicle right now, haha! Congratulations on going after and getting one of your goals! Next time bring more water! It's not Disneyland out there ya know, hahaha! ;)
:)
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Daphne
Trad climber
Black Rock City
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Aug 18, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
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Sweet! Looks like so much fun, thanks for documenting it and posting it up. Glad those hikers were there for you with the water :-)
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Author's Reply
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Aug 18, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
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Thanks all. David sent me some cool pics so I will add those as well.
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Dingus Milktoast
Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
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Aug 18, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
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Jaybro I've been wanting to do the route again... (hint hint)
DMT
ps. Oops I see you're already taken. On well....
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Bad Climber
climber
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Aug 18, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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Great good fun. I'm almost embarrassed to admit that I've done it, I think, seven times. Different partners, stretched out over the years. It's so cool to have nothing but some draws and slings and pad up the wonderful slab of stone. And the views! Yeah, hiking in from Tioga Rd. is the way to go. I nice all day thing with some great hiking, too.
Thanks.
BAd
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Aug 21, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
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Nice report, Steve! (I almost missed it 'cause I was out of town.) Looking forward to more pics...
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Russ S.
climber
was Seattle, now Spokane
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Aug 21, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
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Only done CJ once. My most vivid memory is from one of the middle pitches where I was significantly out over the last bolt and mantling on a chicken head when the rope came taut as I was powering up into the mantle, almost pulling me off. Just about messed my pants before my buddy got the belay straighened out...
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Weld_it
Trad climber
Chatsworth
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Aug 21, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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FACT: YEAH!!!!!!!!!!! GET SOME!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 22, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
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How was the weather? Thinking of doing the CJ this coming weekend. How much water did you guys bring on the route?
Luke
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Aug 22, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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DINGUS!!!!
Me too.
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fattrad
Mountain climber
GOP Convention
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Aug 22, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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Spyork,
Thanks for the great TR, did I miss where the OW was on the route :)
The evil one
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 22, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
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hey there, say, spyork....
thanks for the neat trip report... wow, been able to see a few the last few days... :)
say, as to the large cairn...
say, (hahahahaaa) perhaps it is not:
perhaps it is just an artistic rock sculpture of
a small dinosaur, critter on it's haunches, ;))
:))
awwww, shucks, just looking at the artistic side of it...
:)
thanks so much for sharing...
:)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Aug 22, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
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Nice. Thanks. I've only talked about doing this. Once Ed H and I were going to do it, but it was BAKING out so we opted for something else. Really cool!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 22, 2011 - 10:53pm PT
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Nice Spyork!
Looks like you were smoking the whole way :)
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Crest Jewel follows a series of unique but hard to see features. Photo: Chris McNamara
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