Mountaineer's Route 3rd class

 
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Mt. Whitney


High Sierra, California USA


Trip Report
Mt. Whitney Mountaineer's Route (TR)

by PAUL SOUZA
Tuesday May 18, 2010 12:43pm
  Trip Report Views: 3,127
PAUL SOUZA 		About the Author
PAUL SOUZA is a trad climber and mountaineer from Clovis, CA.

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Pate

Trad climber
  May 20, 2010 - 11:15am PT
Beautiful pics Paul. You guys certainly didn't lighten the loads you carried at all- 2 tents? pain and suffering.
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
  May 20, 2010 - 08:16pm PT
Thanks for all the fotos! What a beautiful place and while I sit here on a warn Hawaiian afternoon, I taste the cold air, and feel joy you must have felt just from being there.

SO Thanks for sharing!

Aloha,
will
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Author's Reply  May 22, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
We only had 1 tent. My pack weighed in at 55 lbs, and my buddy's 40lbs. I tend to go prepared, and am glad I did as the weather did get worse and we were contemplating to rescue the 2 climbers on the summit.
10b4me

Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
  May 23, 2010 - 10:22am PT
thanks for the tr. I liked the black and white pictures.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  May 24, 2010 - 07:11am PT
Cool! Lot of snow still. When it warms up a little and the snow is soft, I have just kicked up it in Nike's. It is full of loose junk when dry, so you gotta watch it if you have a partner or if anyone is stupid enough to be behind you.

Next time do the East Butt. It is a great route. Upper Boy Scout Lake used to be full of 20 inch trout. Zillions of them. It was a horrible bushwhack to get there.

Great pics.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Author's Reply  May 24, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
Yeah, the East Buttress is on my to do list this summer. As well as the rest of the Cali 14ers.
micronut

Trad climber
  May 24, 2010 - 05:03pm PT
Paul, you from Fresno? Me too. Good work out there. Way to get some alpine action. See you around.
ochotona

Social climber
The Portal, CA
  May 24, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
Fixed lines? Frontpointing & mixed climbing? Where did you guys go? When I was up there on Tuesday the 11th it was just a walk around the corner on well-consolidated snow from the top of the coulouir to the summit. Could it have melted that fast?
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Author's Reply  May 26, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
So I just realized that some of the photos in my blog are getting cut off. If you click on the photo, it will redirect you to the site where I have them and you'll be able to view the whole photo. I tried to fix it, with no luck though.

There was a fixed rope at the base of the notch. I'm assuming set by one of the guide services. When we were there in March, we talked to a guide, who was going up, and he said that they set fixed ropes for their clients.

We used it, hand over hand, to get up over the sketchy spots. There was some icy spots. After that, we were able to kick-step our way up and didn't bother to rope up.

See photo: http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/gears456/MR%2005-15-10/?action=view¤t=IMG_8753.jpg
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Mt. Whitney - Mountaineer's Route 3rd class - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route disappears behind the ridge and follows the gully to the summit.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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The route as seen from Iceberg Lake.
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The route as seen from Iceberg Lake.