Trip Report
Lurking Fear solo - My first time up the Captain
Tuesday May 22, 2012 6:29pm
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Seems like everyone’s in the Valley right now, which made me both jealous and psyched. Which led to finally managing to write up my trip report from last year. Better late than never maybe? I apologise in advance for the lack of photos and general over word-y-ness. Any photos that are not crap were taken by the excellent Brit party of Dave and Nick.
I first went to Yosemite in 2010. After the obligatory first season bail off El Cap I was hooked, and immediately bought a ticket for the next Summer, with the plan of learning to solo. This went well and I was so excited I wrote thousands of words about it on my Prow trip report.
Day 1
All summer the thought of trying to solo El Cap was niggling about in my head, a silly idea which wouldn’t go away. Which led to standing at the base of Lurking Fear feeling, well, fearful.
However I hate hiking up hills, and since this had necessitated at least 5 runs to the base with all my assorted crap it seemed like a wasted effort to not go up the fun bit. I said goodbye to Alexa super bag carrier, who had helped with the last load, tied into the rope and went to start climbing. After tying into the rope I did realise that this is not the way to start a solo, tied my rope to my other rope instead, loaded the grigri and set off. Not a great start.
I had enough stuff with me for 12 days, figuring that even I couldn’t be that slow. I was warned that trying to solo LF with that much crap would be a nightmare, but did I listen, no. Hauling the first slab was fun, the bag got stuck 5 times and overall it took me 3 hours to haul. Set off on pitch 2 with the sound of thunder and my friend from higher bailing past me. As soon as I left the anchor the rain started. It poured down for the exact length of time it took me to lead the bolt ladder pitch. At the anchor I was cold, wet, miserable and fed up. To further improve matters, while rapping back to my bags the grigri slipped on the wet rope, causing a pants filling 15ft fall until the rope came tight between both anchors. If there was a time to bail it was then. However my ropes were still fixed above and it couldn’t hurt to at least haul the next pitch?
Hauling took another many hours and I slept damply at belay 2.
Day 2
The next day I climbed and hauled to 3, heard more thunder so left ALL my stuff at 3 and headed down. Just by the bridge I realised crucial things like my only sleeping bag and wallet were in the haulbag. Oh well, not walking back up there.
Two broke days on the ground and the weather was only getting worse. I was running out of time before my flight back to Ireland. There was nothing more for it it seemed, but to head back up.
Day 1 or 3, depending when you count from
Round two started out more sucessful, but when I got to the pitch four anchor a party of were still trying to take down their ledge. The less said about them the better. They apologised for being slow, saying that they had never climbed a multi-pitch before. 7 hours of hanging belay fun later they had got the ledge down and led pitch 5, while everyone behind me got more and more impatient. I wasn’t too antsy, I figured beautiful trade routes in the centre of the universe are going to have at least some crowd clusters. However I blame the long wait for the gumby mistake everyone on the route made later.
By about 4pm the party ahead started letting people past, I let some folks past me too as I am after all exceedingly slow. Everyone was excited to finally be moving on. We could hear thunder, but since we were all looking West we couldn’t see anything. Half an hour later all parties were leading when we got slammed by a seriously big storm. Hail, rain, waterfalls, mist, lightning, the lot. I was leading pitch 5 and tried to get to the anchor, but bailed down when the rain got so heavy I couldn’t see anymore. Back at the pitch 4 anchor (again) I tried to hide under my ledge fly with a party of Brits who had just come up. despite wearing all my rain gear I was shivering hard and getting pretty damn cold. The mist was so thick I couldn’t see the party below me. I was counting the seconds between lightning and thunder, but stopped at 2 because I got too scared.
As with all things though, it eventually stopped. It was now dark and I was really really cold. There wasn’t room for two ledges on the anchor, so I offered to pitch mine and share with the two Brits.
We made some tea and things were a little bit better, if still grim. I tried to bail the water out of my sleeping bag, but somehow there was still over a hand’s depth of freezing water in there when I got in. Three people on a fish double is pretty tight, but at least vaguely warm. I remember going to sleep shivering violently and waking up in the morning still shivering. I remember saying to the Brits that the only bit of me that didn’t feel cold were my feet.
Day 2b
I wanted to bail but the Brits convinced me to do one more pitch. The slow party were bailing after dropping all their cooking stuff (on my head) which necessitated many more hours waiting. The other 2 parties also bailed. The Brits jumared my rope and led the last few feet to the anchor, I jugged so technically I didn’t solo the route, by about 10 feet.
Eventually the sun came round, I stripped off my soaking clothes to try and flag them on the pig and life seemed good again.
Day 3
Shared belay 6 with the Brits again, this time with my ledge to myself. I said goodbye to them in the morning and committed to the traverse.
Traverse was fun, wide crack was fun and a bit spicy and a pain to haul. I was one pitch behind scheldude after the storm, so told myself if I got the pig to the top of the wide crack before 6pm I’d do one more. Docked the piggy and checked my watch - 5.58, one more pitch it is.
All went well until about 10ft below the Pillar of Despair, after the mini penji. No rope. Balls. Made a somewhat sh#t anchor because I had no gear left and went back down to investigate. The know for the continuous loop was stuck in the crack just above the anchor. Back up, finish pitch, back down, back up, haul and set up ledge took til 11pm. I kept falling off the Pillar of Despair but it was still welcome solid ground. Slept tired and satisfied that night.
Day 4
The next morning was an ibuprofen breakfast kind of morning. My toes had been somehow both numb and hurting so I decided to brave the smell and investigate. Eeek, my toenails and the skin on my big toes had gone kind of black and numb on the surface. Lovely. Found out later it was mild trench-foot from the cold wet night. Nowt to be done at this point, so back on went my still damp shoes and onto pitches 10 and 11. Nothing much of note here, Kate Rutherford and partner (Melissa?) passed me on a LFIAD, I was very impressed, said hi and gave them some gatorade. They were the last people I saw for 4 days.
Got a wee bit scared on pitch 11 and reverted to my “down to the river to pray” singing habits from the Prow, also took a huge chunk out of my finger when a nut blew, the only pitch on the route that I didn’t wear gloves on.
I was feeling a bit battered, but it was starting to seem like I might actually get to the top, which was encouraging.
Day 5
Pitches 12 and 13 were fine and I fixed 14 that night. Decided against hauling it because it was late and looked like a nightmare.
Day 6
It all got a bit weird round about here.
I was paranoid and lonely reading a book about being paranoid and lonely. I hauled 14 the next day and fixed 15 and 16. Slept at 14. I was a bit scared, in this big dark corner, where no one could see me and there was no phone signal. The free climbing was exciting. I can barely climb 10a single pitch with an encouraging belayer. I also learned that because of the laws of the universe, the catastrophe knots will always suck into the grigri at a cruxy free move.
Day 7
The next day I got to Thanksgiving and was pretty pleased. That’s a bit of an understatement. Shuttled all my crap across, enjoyed the ledge and fixed one pitch. Just then I heard voices. People, really, wow! I wandered along Thanksgiving and saw the excellent Rich and Ammon, just topping out of Hole World SA. They were out of food water and cigarettes, I had many of all these things and I got to talk to people. Really nice people. They continued on to the top, while I chilled out on Thanksgiving.
I think that evening is the happiest I’ve ever been. I ate all my goodies, treated myself to hot ravioli (for a change), smoked a lot of cigarettes and read a bit of my paranoid book. I thought about climbing and why I do it. I thought about all the awesome people I met, both in the valley and on the route. I did all this while watching the most achingly beautiful sunset over the valley. I was so content I didn’t even bother moving once I realised my head was clearly in the urinal section of the ledge. Mmm, gravel with piss. It’s all good. Everything made sense.
Day 8
Final morning I was ready to get the hell outta there. Take me to the pizza. First there was the last pitch. Ammon and Rich had bivvied at the big boulder and were hanging around, presumably to make sure I got up okay, or maybe just to bum some more smokes. Ammon offered to help me haul the last pitch, but I stubbornly said no, as for some silly reason it was important for me to haul the last stupid pitch myself. Things started well when my bags wouldn’t even start coming up, turned out one of the haulbag straps had snagged on the anchor hangers. After that the pig got stuck 7 more times, a personal record.
Once at the anchor Ammon and Rich insisted that I was finished the guidebook route and that I could not let them help me. I was currently failing to get the bag onto my back and off the anchor and I gladly accepted. Ammon even insisted on “helping” me haul the last bit of slab after the boulder. I was meant to jug behind and unstick it, but he hauled so fast I couldn’t catch the bag.
It was a surreal top out to my first time up El Cap mostly solo, desperately chasing my haulbag up a slab.
I split my loads and carried one to the top, however my brain then shut off completely and I was too scared to scramble back down for the second one. Instead I sat at the very tippy top of El Cap, chain smoking and thinking about life, until awesome Niels and Riley met me to help me down with my stuff.
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Trip Report Views: 29,414 |
Jane Gallwey
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About the Author Jane Gallwey is the slowest big wall climber in Ireland. |
Comments
Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 22, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
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Super report and effort!
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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May 22, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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my favorite TR in a while. Thanx
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 22, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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And that is what it is all about. Excellent all around.
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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May 22, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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Nicely done.....and the pics aren't that bad either.....Thanks for sharing......
Stevo
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John Mac
Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
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May 22, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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Well Done Jane. Congratulations.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 22, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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You ROCK!!!
Way to get 'er done!!!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 22, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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NICE!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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May 22, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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Awesome!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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May 22, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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Strong Work!
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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May 22, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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I really enjoyed your Prow TR, and this one is even better. Great job on a great adventure!!! Your tenacious attitude is inspiring!!
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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May 22, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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A wonderful trip report - Improved my work day no end !
steve
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 22, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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Nice work there! It looked like you had things well under control. I am glad you got to make an ascent of such a magnificient piece of stone. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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May 22, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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Really awesome! I like how your smile grew the higher you got. Very inspiring. Thanks!
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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May 22, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Well done and thanks for sharing.
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slodog
Trad climber
ontario canada
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May 22, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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great report-very inspiring-you rock!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 22, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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Super!-Enjoyed this TR to the max.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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May 22, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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Awesome Jane, way to get after it!!!!
Very nice write up~!!!
Thanks!
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SofCookay
climber
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May 23, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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Well done - great trip report!
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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May 22, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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You are an official Hard Woman !! Good job !!
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WBraun
climber
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May 22, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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One of the most heartwarming ascents I've ever read .....
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A5scott
Trad climber
NE Philly, PA
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May 22, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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Amazing work! thanks for sharing!
scott
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 22, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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Way to not bail! Great narrative. Thanks Jane.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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May 22, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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wow, you rock girl!!
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bergbryce
climber
East Bay, CA
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May 22, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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Hey you were on The Prow and let my partner John and I pass and belay from your ledge atop the first pitch! Thanks again for that.
Great TR, well done!
Bryce
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thudge
climber
CO
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May 22, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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Great work Jane!
Weren’t you just practicing on a nearby tree a few years ago?
Way to go. You should be proud of yourself!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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May 23, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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Yay!
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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May 23, 2012 - 12:16am PT
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Really sweet report. You have a strong desire for adventure and risk. RESPECT to you for tackling such a challenging solo.
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Burt
Social climber
Angelus Oaks, Ca
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May 23, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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fantastic! And you did solo the route, Ammon is is super light and having him haul a wee bit of slab is ok.. (love ya bro just wanted to bring back memories). Way to stick with the solo and this was a great read into adventure and what climbing should be... a journey into the unknown. Love it.
Cheers,
KurtBurt
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Springdale, UT
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May 23, 2012 - 01:34am PT
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Awesome TR and very inspiring! I am heading to the valley soon and I am hoping to solo my first wall...stuff like this stokes the fire! I was thinking of soloing LF but I may start with the West Face of the Leaning Tower for my first solo wall. Way to stick it out though--very tough stuff!
Steve
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 23, 2012 - 02:21am PT
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Dear, a lovely report.
Aside from the climbing, you, a little bit of a thing, did all that hauling, too. That is exceedingly commendable. You must be a hard person/gal/lass. Slainte.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 23, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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I was paranoid and lonely reading a book about being paranoid and lonely.
lol
are you a philosophy major too?
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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May 23, 2012 - 02:58am PT
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Super effort, super TR !
I am so in awe of what women climbers are doing these days
but doing it solo takes it to another level.
This TR made my day. Such a contrast to the mess on Everest right now.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 23, 2012 - 03:23am PT
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Classic stuff!
I like your style.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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May 23, 2012 - 03:48am PT
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Nice job!!
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Nomates
Mountain climber
Newhaven.Sussex.UK
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May 23, 2012 - 05:45am PT
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Good on you Janey!! Well done!! Just the name of the route would have put me off!:-)
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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May 23, 2012 - 08:46am PT
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Congratulations, way to stick to it. The Captain will bring out the snail eye under the best of conditions. Bravo!!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 23, 2012 - 08:50am PT
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Very nice TR. I especially enjoyed the part about chilling out on Thanksgiving L.
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 23, 2012 - 09:12am PT
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I'd been waiting for this one for a while. Brilliant!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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May 23, 2012 - 09:56am PT
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This was an awesome trip report.
Susan
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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May 23, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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Awesome! Nice send. TFPU!
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
El Portal, CA
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May 23, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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Oh- so very nice job up there Jane! I was feeling so grim for you when it kept raining and I had no idea you were actually staying up there in all that. You really earned that summit! Thanks for writing it up.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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May 23, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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What a great story and a fine accomplishment. Be proud, you have braggin' rights!
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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May 23, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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This is the proudest trip report I've read all year. Congratulations to you and only you, Jane.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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May 23, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
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Great job, Jane, with the route and with the write-up. I truly enjoyed it.
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Techclmbr
Trad climber
Greenville, NH
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May 23, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
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You are an inspiration! Congrats! Keep climbing and writing your reports, I can't wait to read the tales of you next incredible adventure!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 23, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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AWESOME, Jane!!!!
A tip of my Guinness to you!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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May 23, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
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The lessons you learned on this wall will serve you well for a lifetime.
Good Job
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Emon
Trad climber
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May 23, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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Inspiring! Congratulations and TFPU!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 24, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Great report thank you for sharing
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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May 26, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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Jane Gallwey is the slowest big wall climber in Ireland.
Tami beat me to it, but I was going to say.
Jane Gallwey is a sh#t-hot bold climber from Ireland.
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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May 24, 2012 - 03:30am PT
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Really nice! Lovely report from a lady who's not afraid to say.....it was lonely and frightening. Great attitude as you joked about the stuck bags yet never said it was hard (and I'm certain it was!) I found myself smiling and truly touched as your daily events were told. You did a great job and kept at it when so many would have bailed.
Thanks for sharing, can't wait to read the next one!
~Sooze
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 26, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
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Yowsah! Great trip report, fabulous.
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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May 24, 2012 - 04:45am PT
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wow..
very impressive and touching. you kept it together...
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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May 24, 2012 - 06:38am PT
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Great report! Impressive persistence despite some rather grim situations...
Looking forward to the next report!
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Concerned citizen
Big Wall climber
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May 24, 2012 - 08:34am PT
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Jane: Your climb and your trip report are superb, and thank you for sharing them! Everything you wrote about the climbing is absolutely spot-on, and your description of the whole venture makes it a rich experience for the reader. It is also uplifiting to report your chance encounters with other climbers, with legends like Ammon (who is one great guy), with hikers on the top of El Cap, and so on. You have my nomination for TR of the year.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 24, 2012 - 11:01am PT
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Jane, that was a truly inspiration Trip Report, you are definitely a "Hard(wo)man"!
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Jane Gallwey
Big Wall climber
Waterford, Ireland
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Author's Reply
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May 25, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Awww guys (and gals) you're all too nice. Thanks so much for all the positive responses. It's made my week :-)
In other news, just booked my flights back over - which side of El Cap is less hot in the summer?
Cheers everyone!
Jane
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 25, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
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Wow, just wow.
That is so fecking awesome!
Way to make us all look weak. :0)
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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May 25, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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I know I couldnt have done it. Way to go Jane! The humility, candor and humor in your narrative make it one of the best climb accounts Ive ever read.
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velvet!
Trad climber
La Cochitaville
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May 25, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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Jane! Great read! and glad to hear you're coming back! When exactly?
:)
lib
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Jane Gallwey
Big Wall climber
Waterford, Ireland
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Author's Reply
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May 25, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
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I'm back from the 1st August til 17th Sept. Where are you at these days? Valley I hope :-)
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J.R.
Big Wall climber
Bend, OR
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May 26, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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Thank you so much for sharing your great adventure with everyone. Such a pleasure to read.
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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May 26, 2012 - 09:24am PT
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I enjoyed your TRs hugely. Inspiring, really. I mean really. Maybe if I see you in the Valley I can persuade you to sign my haul bag! Best wishes, and please consider writing more TRs. Thanks!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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May 26, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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WOW! Way to go. Very inspiring. Thanks for the TR.
Wes
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 26, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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I should be back around Sept 12-13, so hopefully we can finally get together for that long overdue Guinness, eh?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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May 26, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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you know, it's possible you're both the slowest and fastest big wall climber from Ireland
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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May 26, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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Nice!
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matlinb
Trad climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 27, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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Awesome. Will be thinking of your TR next time I consider bailing off something.
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pc
climber
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May 27, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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Great! All the way 'round. Way to stick with it!
Cheers,
pc
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Michael Nicholson
Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
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May 27, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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Nice Trip Report! Way to hang in there when things got tough, you made the right choice!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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May 27, 2012 - 08:55am PT
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Nice. I like this Jane. She gets it done.
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roy
Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
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May 27, 2012 - 09:07am PT
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A great report about a fantastic adventure. Very well told.
Cheers, Roy
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Neil Chelton
climber
England
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May 27, 2012 - 10:07am PT
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This is awesome. A description of real adventure. Your balls are bigger than those of any girl i've ever met. And your determination to achieve your goals is incredible, even when the haulbag gets stuck 7 times on a pitch.
Nice hat.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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May 27, 2012 - 10:21am PT
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You are one sick chick. We'd make a good brother-sister pair, seems our genetics are similar (except for the X and y thing). Are your parents also incarcerated?
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Jane Gallwey
Big Wall climber
Waterford, Ireland
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Author's Reply
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May 27, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Thanks again everyone. I don't think I'm particularly brave (I cry on routes frequently, just ask anyone who climbs with me) I'm just stubborn. Climbing routes like lurking fear which don't have any really hard climbing, in a way makes life really easy. Your temporary wall life is a success if you go to sleep 2 pitches above where you woke up that morning.
And cheers Neil, glad you think I have lady balls. Balls or not everyone needs a silly hat, reminds you not to take life to seriously.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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May 28, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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WOW - well done, Jane!
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Double D
climber
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May 28, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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Wow... what a tale of perseverance! Well done and well told. I pity anyone who attempts to whine to you in the future... jess say'n. (-;
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yahh
Trad climber
truckee
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That was a truly inspiring TR.
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yosguns
climber
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That was so awesome!! It was like a really good book...I didn't want it to end. I'm absolutely inspired. :)
Allyson
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The Alpine
climber
The Sea
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Why do girls cry on routes?
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SofCookay
climber
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Hmmmm. Dudes cry on routes too - did you read Mark Hudon's (no offense to MH) "El Cap Report" thread?
"I rapped down and cleaned the pitch and got ready for the next one and over the next hour tried three different ways but never felt my strength or confidence were enough to help me if I should have to down climb after reaching a dead end. Finally, I rapped back down to my haul bags, knowing what I had to do. I cried and cried for an hour before calling Cheyne Lempe and asking that he hike to the top and throw me a rope.
I cried more that night and also when I saw Cheyne's rope snake over to top towards me.
After reading all of your comments of concern and encouragement I cried all over again."
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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the sum of the moment
equals the magnitude of
your dream multiplied
by its distance
as removed from the common.
the units of the product
in yer cause
indicate fourth dimension
achievement.
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fivesix
Trad climber
Girdwood, AK
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That was one of the most entertaining TO's I've ever read! Thanks for sharing! I read it with an irish accent in my head.
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Anne
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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um, you RULE!!!! :)
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youri
climber
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Nice Climb, Nice TR, thanks for the share!! Inspirational ...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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hey there say, jane! wow, i MISSED this somehow...
been too busy, and had small aches of my own, and too many projects, haha....
this was a marvelous job! thanks so much for sharing your life, here...
it's overflowing with tenacity! i LOVE tenacity... (mingled with grace, of course--one sure needs that when tenacity goes into overdrive) :)
very well done... and very well cried...
will not forget this story for quite a long time...
:)
*welcome back to USA, it seems, if i saw the second comments you put here, correctly, that you are/or were BACK here for a bit, :)
god bless!
:)
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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NeeBee nails it. Tenacity coupled with grace=glory.
Indeed.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Jun 10, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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this is climbing. +2.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 10, 2012 - 03:59am PT
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Awesome TR. Very inspirational and well written. Thank you!
Mike Cowper
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perswig
climber
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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Don't know how I missed this, but put me on the bandwagon..
Bad-ass, well-written, don't-stop.
Awaiting the next one.
Dale
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
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Jun 10, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Very Nice trip report Jane and way to stick it out. That big storm that came in was pretty crazy, Rich and I huddled underneath our fly (which wasn't set up) shivering our arses off, while baseball sized rocks were bouncing all around us... nerve-wracking.
I loved how you wouldn't allow any help hauling the last pitch. That pretty much said it all, in my mind. The only way you would let me help at all is when I convinced you that the route was over, just look at the topo.
Congrats on a special ascent that will be with you for the rest of your life. Hope to see you again this year.
Cheers, Ammon
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Jun 13, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
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I loved reading that and I like the last photo of you on the top. I think you're smiling!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 13, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
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Is it just me or does Jane remind you of Abby Watkins? I only ever met Abby once for one our Western Mountaineering slide shows. She kicked ass too!
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jun 13, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
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you are the greatest and one tough person.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the east coast, for now.
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Jun 13, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
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Outstanding job! and a great TR.
Its pretty cool that your fist time up E.C. was a solo mission. I don't think I'll have the cajones (or patience) to solo El Cap on my first trip.
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ElGreco
Mountain climber
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Jun 14, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
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You are one tough nut, gal. Good on you. Quintessential Irish spirit: positive attitude and perseverance in tough conditions!
Keep them coming!
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213
climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
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Jun 15, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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Right on! Totally awesome work and very inspiring.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jun 15, 2012 - 01:43am PT
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... up El Cap mostly solo You're in good company (Hudon's 'Hawk ascent).
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Wallwombat
Trad climber
Australia
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Jun 15, 2012 - 10:42am PT
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Great trip report.
well done.
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
Durango ColoRADo
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Jun 15, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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Badass indeed! I really enjoyed reading this.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 15, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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Hi Jane,
Impressive climbing and a really nice TR. I think the mental video of you chasing the pig up the last pitch will stay with me forever. Nicely done on all counts.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jun 15, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
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Awesome stuff, way to get after it. very inspiring, hope to get up there like that some day.
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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Dec 31, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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My fave TR for 2012. Well, JG's Prow TR was my fave too. Huge fun to read. Thanks and best wishes for 2013!
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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TFPU
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Too good for prime time. Jane, you have game.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Excellent. Great pics of the route.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Damn, well done. And double damn, that noob party taking SEVEN HOURS to lead a pitch and break down their ledge? WTF? Who are these dolts who jump on El Cap having NEVER done a multi-pitch route? Yeah, I'll jump into the ring with Mike Tyson without ever having sparred with a serious fighter. Doh!
Totally loved your tale. You got serious ovaries!
BAd
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, jane....
wow, i love this so much... i just HAD TO POST again here...
say, where are you now, and what are you up to?
happy new year to you, and wishing all the best...
:)
*hope to hear more trip share... you did this so welll...
stil miss seing you neat pics, but i DID see about three with you
in them... :)
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David C
Trad climber
UK
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Feb 26, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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Hi Jane,
Hope to follow in your footsteps this summer, but over on Zodiac.
And the storm wasn't that bad, just an average day in Scotland.
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Jaysen
Big Wall climber
NYC
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Sep 13, 2013 - 09:04am PT
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I never thought id be very interested in soloing until I read this tr, having said that it would be nice to do it in season to have other friends on the wall!
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Powder
Trad climber
the Box
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:01am PT
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Wow this is so awesome!!
What a trip! Thanks for taking us along the journey through your words with you - it feels so real as if I were there experiencing it all.... the joy , the bittersweet side of it, the stubbornness (love it, ) new friendship..... Reading this TR makes a great start of the day - thank you (and thanks to whoever bumping it!!!!!)
Very proud and excellent accomplishment! Congrats!!!!!
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philip leng
Trad climber
Solihull, UK
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Mar 11, 2015 - 05:24am PT
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Brilliant view of a sufferfest and sticking with it. Great climber and a great write up. Will be getting my partner to read this before we hit the Valley in May. Thanks.
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Mar 11, 2015 - 05:40am PT
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Thanks for the bump, Philip.
Awesome trip report. Demoralizing start... weather, forgotten wallet and the gumbies. Hung in there and completed the route. Kudos to you, Jane Gallwey. You may be the slowest big wall climber in Ireland. But you're a big wall soloist, which puts you in an elite group.
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Mar 11, 2015 - 10:39am PT
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Awesome! congrats on such a life altering experience
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Brian
climber
California
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Mar 11, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
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Holy shit!
You are amazing!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2015 - 04:36pm PT
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A very admirably proud and determined effort Jane and an equally fine account of your experience.
You really find out what you are made of looking into that grand mirror alone. Your humility and self-deprecating humor is truly charming and your writing style enjoyable to read and easy to appreciate.
I look forward to following your exploits further so thanks for letting us in on your game of solitaire with the Captain.
Thanks for the quality Bump philip!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 11, 2015 - 01:43pm PT
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Your humility and self-deprecating humor is truly charming
Steve, that's due to some Irish gene, it can't be helped, but our
Jane's writing skill is not universally shared but by a few.
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Gene
climber
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Mar 11, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
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some Irish gene
Somebody talking about me?
Great report Jane!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2015 - 04:14pm PT
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It's Gracey on me mother's side so I come by the effect honestly.
Scotch-Irish and Polish-German blood comes in handy when things get hellish and nasty.
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Mar 11, 2015 - 05:02pm PT
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Wow!!!!!!! Fabulous!
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Jeff Gorris
climber
Not from Portlandia
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Mar 11, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
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Righteous and Well Done!
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rodermck
Social climber
san jose ca.
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Apr 20, 2015 - 07:36am PT
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one of the best i have read and took us trough a journey of difficulty and despair to joy and a inspiration to others for her supreme effort to go on know matter how hard the difficulties got!!..
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Apr 20, 2015 - 10:10am PT
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Great accomplishment - hard core!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Apr 20, 2015 - 10:54am PT
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Brilliant! Stoke factor 12!
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Apr 20, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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Missed this excellent TR the first time around.
You make me proud my Great Grandfather was Irish.
Actually you make me proud in human beings!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 23, 2015 - 11:09am PT
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I think that evening is the happiest I’ve ever been. I ate all my goodies, treated myself to hot ravioli (for a change), smoked a lot of cigarettes and read a bit of my paranoid book. I thought about climbing and why I do it. I thought about all the awesome people I met, both in the valley and on the route. I did all this while watching the most achingly beautiful sunset over the valley. I was so content I didn’t even bother moving once I realised my head was clearly in the urinal section of the ledge. Mmm, gravel with piss. It’s all good. Everything made sense.
Why we do it. Loved this TR. Thank you.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Jun 23, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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You go girl! That was an awesome report.
Cheers,
Doug
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Tobia
Social climber
Denial
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Jun 23, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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Lets me know of all the fun I missed out on!
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Jane Gallwey
Big Wall climber
Waterford, Ireland
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Author's Reply
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Jun 23, 2015 - 03:50pm PT
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Thanks everyone, always makes me smile when I see this has been bumped. Feels like a long time ago now.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Nice read! Good to see you were in a great place with a solid hard and go for it attitude! I'm impressed! The stuff of legends girl. Thanks for the mind trip for today.........I still have a booklet of Irish Sweepstake tickets from the last girl I climbed with!
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Kampy
Trad climber
Bend, Oregon
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Mar 23, 2016 - 09:34pm PT
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Hey Jane!! Great trip report! I found this today and I was like so cool!! We were the party below you guys that bailed the day after the storm! Anyway super impressed with your solo ascent! Jason
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 15, 2018 - 12:17pm PT
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Bump for doing it the Gallwey!
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 15, 2018 - 04:30pm PT
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👍👍👍
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Dec 15, 2018 - 08:18pm PT
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You're my hero.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Dec 16, 2018 - 06:54am PT
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Bumparino. Totally worth a second read. Even more if you missed it first round.
BAd
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C4/1971
Trad climber
Depends on the day...
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Excellent TR. Climb on...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey Jane,
Are you still in Golden as I am going to be up there doing research for my interview work until next Saturday and would love to meet you for a pint or two. On me, of course, and not Coors, of course.
Cheers
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Thanks for bringing this back up to the front page!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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That was great !
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Okay, I'm clearly Johnny-come-lately to this party, but wowwww! You are an engaging writer who really gets it. One of the best TRs on the site!
What an effort, and what a write-up. Hopefully you'll see some of these later comments, and I do hope that you've continued to get it done over the years.
Thank you for sharing!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Best use of selfies ever in any context!
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JeffreyJ
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 20, 2019 - 11:59am PT
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Your humility is encouraging. Thanks for being real. And you make it to the top, with your dignity and beautiful smile intact. TFPU!
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Jane Gallwey
Big Wall climber
Waterford, Ireland
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Author's Reply
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Jan 25, 2019 - 06:05am PT
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Wow, thanks everyone for so many nice comments.
What a blast from the past. I was talking about going back to Yosemite for the first time in a long time these last few days so decided to log back into supertopo - extremely surprised to see this on the front page.
Maybe it'll spur me into action to book a flight soon...
Steve - thanks for your very kind offer but I'm afraid I'm living back in the UK these days. Hopefully I will catch you stateside sometime though.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2019 - 08:58am PT
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It would be fun to meet you under any circumstances so keep us posted as your plans come together.
Cheers in the meantime.
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Lurking Fear is route number 1. Photo: Tom Frost
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