Lurking Fear C2F 5.7

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Lurking Fear solo - My first time up the Captain
Tuesday May 22, 2012 6:29pm
Seems like everyone’s in the Valley right now, which made me both jealous and psyched. Which led to finally managing to write up my trip report from last year. Better late than never maybe? I apologise in advance for the lack of photos and general over word-y-ness. Any photos that are not crap were taken by the excellent Brit party of Dave and Nick.


I first went to Yosemite in 2010. After the obligatory first season bail off El Cap I was hooked, and immediately bought a ticket for the next Summer, with the plan of learning to solo. This went well and I was so excited I wrote thousands of words about it on my Prow trip report.

Day 1
All summer the thought of trying to solo El Cap was niggling about in my head, a silly idea which wouldn’t go away. Which led to standing at the base of Lurking Fear feeling, well, fearful.

However I hate hiking up hills, and since this had necessitated at least 5 runs to the base with all my assorted crap it seemed like a wasted effort to not go up the fun bit. I said goodbye to Alexa super bag carrier, who had helped with the last load, tied into the rope and went to start climbing. After tying into the rope I did realise that this is not the way to start a solo, tied my rope to my other rope instead, loaded the grigri and set off. Not a great start.

I had enough stuff with me for 12 days, figuring that even I couldn’t be that slow. I was warned that trying to solo LF with that much crap would be a nightmare, but did I listen, no. Hauling the first slab was fun, the bag got stuck 5 times and overall it took me 3 hours to haul. Set off on pitch 2 with the sound of thunder and my friend from higher bailing past me. As soon as I left the anchor the rain started. It poured down for the exact length of time it took me to lead the bolt ladder pitch. At the anchor I was cold, wet, miserable and fed up. To further improve matters, while rapping back to my bags the grigri slipped on the wet rope, causing a pants filling 15ft fall until the rope came tight between both anchors. If there was a time to bail it was then. However my ropes were still fixed above and it couldn’t hurt to at least haul the next pitch?

Hauling took another many hours and I slept damply at belay 2.

Looking a bit scared at bivy 1 (pitch 2 anchors)
Looking a bit scared at bivy 1 (pitch 2 anchors)
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Day 2
The next day I climbed and hauled to 3, heard more thunder so left ALL my stuff at 3 and headed down. Just by the bridge I realised crucial things like my only sleeping bag and wallet were in the haulbag. Oh well, not walking back up there.

Two broke days on the ground and the weather was only getting worse. I was running out of time before my flight back to Ireland. There was nothing more for it it seemed, but to head back up.

Day 1 or 3, depending when you count from
Round two started out more sucessful, but when I got to the pitch four anchor a party of were still trying to take down their ledge. The less said about them the better. They apologised for being slow, saying that they had never climbed a multi-pitch before. 7 hours of hanging belay fun later they had got the ledge down and led pitch 5, while everyone behind me got more and more impatient. I wasn’t too antsy, I figured beautiful trade routes in the centre of the universe are going to have at least some crowd clusters. However I blame the long wait for the gumby mistake everyone on the route made later.

Looking up at what would become the cluster, early morning.
Looking up at what would become the cluster, early morning.
Credit: Jane Gallwey

By about 4pm the party ahead started letting people past, I let some folks past me too as I am after all exceedingly slow. Everyone was excited to finally be moving on. We could hear thunder, but since we were all looking West we couldn’t see anything. Half an hour later all parties were leading when we got slammed by a seriously big storm. Hail, rain, waterfalls, mist, lightning, the lot. I was leading pitch 5 and tried to get to the anchor, but bailed down when the rain got so heavy I couldn’t see anymore. Back at the pitch 4 anchor (again) I tried to hide under my ledge fly with a party of Brits who had just come up. despite wearing all my rain gear I was shivering hard and getting pretty damn cold. The mist was so thick I couldn’t see the party below me. I was counting the seconds between lightning and thunder, but stopped at 2 because I got too scared.

Wet wet wet under the ledge fly.
Wet wet wet under the ledge fly.
Credit: Jane Gallwey

As with all things though, it eventually stopped. It was now dark and I was really really cold. There wasn’t room for two ledges on the anchor, so I offered to pitch mine and share with the two Brits.

We made some tea and things were a little bit better, if still grim. I tried to bail the water out of my sleeping bag, but somehow there was still over a hand’s depth of freezing water in there when I got in. Three people on a fish double is pretty tight, but at least vaguely warm. I remember going to sleep shivering violently and waking up in the morning still shivering. I remember saying to the Brits that the only bit of me that didn’t feel cold were my feet.

Somewhat grim night
Somewhat grim night
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Day 2b
I wanted to bail but the Brits convinced me to do one more pitch. The slow party were bailing after dropping all their cooking stuff (on my head) which necessitated many more hours waiting. The other 2 parties also bailed. The Brits jumared my rope and led the last few feet to the anchor, I jugged so technically I didn’t solo the route, by about 10 feet.

The bit I didn't lead. My high point is the green rope.
The bit I didn't lead. My high point is the green rope.
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Eventually the sun came round, I stripped off my soaking clothes to try and flag them on the pig and life seemed good again.

Trying to dry stuff at belay 6
Trying to dry stuff at belay 6
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Day 3
Shared belay 6 with the Brits again, this time with my ledge to myself. I said goodbye to them in the morning and committed to the traverse.

Happy ledge with no rain
Happy ledge with no rain
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Brit-photo looking down at me from the top of the traverse.
Brit-photo looking down at me from the top of the traverse.
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Traverse was fun, wide crack was fun and a bit spicy and a pain to haul. I was one pitch behind scheldude after the storm, so told myself if I got the pig to the top of the wide crack before 6pm I’d do one more. Docked the piggy and checked my watch - 5.58, one more pitch it is.

Lovely cracks
Lovely cracks
Credit: Jane Gallwey

All went well until about 10ft below the Pillar of Despair, after the mini penji. No rope. Balls. Made a somewhat sh#t anchor because I had no gear left and went back down to investigate. The know for the continuous loop was stuck in the crack just above the anchor. Back up, finish pitch, back down, back up, haul and set up ledge took til 11pm. I kept falling off the Pillar of Despair but it was still welcome solid ground. Slept tired and satisfied that night.

Ibuprofen breakfast methinks
Ibuprofen breakfast methinks
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Day 4
The next morning was an ibuprofen breakfast kind of morning. My toes had been somehow both numb and hurting so I decided to brave the smell and investigate. Eeek, my toenails and the skin on my big toes had gone kind of black and numb on the surface. Lovely. Found out later it was mild trench-foot from the cold wet night. Nowt to be done at this point, so back on went my still damp shoes and onto pitches 10 and 11. Nothing much of note here, Kate Rutherford and partner (Melissa?) passed me on a LFIAD, I was very impressed, said hi and gave them some gatorade. They were the last people I saw for 4 days.

Waving goodbye to the last people for a while
Waving goodbye to the last people for a while
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Got a wee bit scared on pitch 11 and reverted to my “down to the river to pray” singing habits from the Prow, also took a huge chunk out of my finger when a nut blew, the only pitch on the route that I didn’t wear gloves on.

Pitch 10 anchor? Still haven't taken down my ledge for the day.
Pitch 10 anchor? Still haven't taken down my ledge for the day.
Credit: Jane Gallwey

I was feeling a bit battered, but it was starting to seem like I might actually get to the top, which was encouraging.

Day 5
Encouraging smile, good morning America!
Encouraging smile, good morning America!
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Looking up at pitch 12 traverse
Looking up at pitch 12 traverse
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Back when I climbed that one...
Back when I climbed that one...
Credit: Jane Gallwey

I never thought I would solo that one!
I never thought I would solo that one!
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Pitches 12 and 13 were fine and I fixed 14 that night. Decided against hauling it because it was late and looked like a nightmare.

Day 6
It all got a bit weird round about here.

I was paranoid and lonely reading a book about being paranoid and lonely. I hauled 14 the next day and fixed 15 and 16. Slept at 14. I was a bit scared, in this big dark corner, where no one could see me and there was no phone signal. The free climbing was exciting. I can barely climb 10a single pitch with an encouraging belayer. I also learned that because of the laws of the universe, the catastrophe knots will always suck into the grigri at a cruxy free move.

My journal from day 7. The only day I actually wrote in it.
My journal from day 7. The only day I actually wrote in it.
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Me looking weirder than usual.
Me looking weirder than usual.
Credit: Jane Gallwey

Day 7
The next day I got to Thanksgiving and was pretty pleased. That’s a bit of an understatement. Shuttled all my crap across, enjoyed the ledge and fixed one pitch. Just then I heard voices. People, really, wow! I wandered along Thanksgiving and saw the excellent Rich and Ammon, just topping out of Hole World SA. They were out of food water and cigarettes, I had many of all these things and I got to talk to people. Really nice people. They continued on to the top, while I chilled out on Thanksgiving.

I think that evening is the happiest I’ve ever been. I ate all my goodies, treated myself to hot ravioli (for a change), smoked a lot of cigarettes and read a bit of my paranoid book. I thought about climbing and why I do it. I thought about all the awesome people I met, both in the valley and on the route. I did all this while watching the most achingly beautiful sunset over the valley. I was so content I didn’t even bother moving once I realised my head was clearly in the urinal section of the ledge. Mmm, gravel with piss. It’s all good. Everything made sense.

Day 8
Final morning I was ready to get the hell outta there. Take me to the pizza. First there was the last pitch. Ammon and Rich had bivvied at the big boulder and were hanging around, presumably to make sure I got up okay, or maybe just to bum some more smokes. Ammon offered to help me haul the last pitch, but I stubbornly said no, as for some silly reason it was important for me to haul the last stupid pitch myself. Things started well when my bags wouldn’t even start coming up, turned out one of the haulbag straps had snagged on the anchor hangers. After that the pig got stuck 7 more times, a personal record.

Once at the anchor Ammon and Rich insisted that I was finished the guidebook route and that I could not let them help me. I was currently failing to get the bag onto my back and off the anchor and I gladly accepted. Ammon even insisted on “helping” me haul the last bit of slab after the boulder. I was meant to jug behind and unstick it, but he hauled so fast I couldn’t catch the bag.

It was a surreal top out to my first time up El Cap mostly solo, desperately chasing my haulbag up a slab.

I split my loads and carried one to the top, however my brain then shut off completely and I was too scared to scramble back down for the second one. Instead I sat at the very tippy top of El Cap, chain smoking and thinking about life, until awesome Niels and Riley met me to help me down with my stuff.

At the top, taken by a lovely hiker who also gave me a chocolate bar.
At the top, taken by a lovely hiker who also gave me a chocolate bar.
Credit: Jane Gallwey


  Trip Report Views: 13,185
Jane Gallwey
About the Author
Jane Gallwey is the slowest big wall climber in Ireland.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
eKat

Trad climber
  May 22, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
FANTASTIC!

TFPU!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  May 22, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
Super report and effort!
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  May 22, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
my favorite TR in a while. Thanx
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  May 22, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
Wow!

DMT
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
  May 22, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
And that is what it is all about. Excellent all around.
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  May 22, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
Nicely done.....and the pics aren't that bad either.....Thanks for sharing......

Stevo
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
  May 22, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
Well Done Jane. Congratulations.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  May 22, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
You ROCK!!!
Way to get 'er done!!!
sullly

Gym climber
  May 23, 2012 - 11:16am PT
This TR tops your mighty one from last year. You're funny and self-effacing.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  May 22, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
NICE!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  May 22, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
Awesome!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
  May 22, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
Strong Work!
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
  May 22, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
I really enjoyed your Prow TR, and this one is even better. Great job on a great adventure!!! Your tenacious attitude is inspiring!!
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  May 22, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
A wonderful trip report - Improved my work day no end !
steve
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
  May 22, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
Nice work there! It looked like you had things well under control. I am glad you got to make an ascent of such a magnificient piece of stone. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  May 22, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
Really awesome! I like how your smile grew the higher you got. Very inspiring. Thanks!
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
  May 22, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
Well done and thanks for sharing.
slodog

Trad climber
ontario canada
  May 22, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
great report-very inspiring-you rock!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  May 22, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
Super!-Enjoyed this TR to the max.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 22, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
Awesome Jane, way to get after it!!!!

Very nice write up~!!!
Thanks!
SofCookay

climber
  May 23, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
Well done - great trip report!


rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
  May 22, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
You are an official Hard Woman !! Good job !!
WBraun

climber
  May 22, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
One of the most heartwarming ascents I've ever read .....
A5scott

Trad climber
Chicago
  May 22, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
Amazing work! thanks for sharing!

scott
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  May 22, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
Jane Gallwey is the slowest big wall climber in Ireland.


Should be changed to Jane Galley is the COOLEST big wall climber in Ireland.


Fabulous TR. Safe climbing to you forever!!!! You rock :-)
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  May 22, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
Way to not bail! Great narrative. Thanks Jane.
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  May 22, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
Thanks for writing that up!
squishy

Mountain climber
  May 22, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
wow, you rock girl!!
bergbryce

climber
East Bay, CA
  May 22, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
Hey you were on The Prow and let my partner John and I pass and belay from your ledge atop the first pitch! Thanks again for that.

Great TR, well done!

Bryce
thudge

climber
CO
  May 22, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
Great work Jane!
Weren’t you just practicing on a nearby tree a few years ago?

Way to go. You should be proud of yourself!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  May 23, 2012 - 12:01am PT
Yay!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  May 23, 2012 - 12:16am PT
Really sweet report. You have a strong desire for adventure and risk. RESPECT to you for tackling such a challenging solo.
Silver

Gym climber
  May 23, 2012 - 12:17am PT
Buy the lady some pints great job way to keep going. The last 3 to 4 hauls on LF are way worse than any on the free blast.

Ireland is proud!
Burt

Social climber
Angelus Oaks, Ca
  May 23, 2012 - 01:18am PT
fantastic! And you did solo the route, Ammon is is super light and having him haul a wee bit of slab is ok.. (love ya bro just wanted to bring back memories). Way to stick with the solo and this was a great read into adventure and what climbing should be... a journey into the unknown. Love it.
Cheers,
KurtBurt
Porkchop_express

Trad climber
Springdale, UT
  May 23, 2012 - 01:34am PT
Awesome TR and very inspiring! I am heading to the valley soon and I am hoping to solo my first wall...stuff like this stokes the fire! I was thinking of soloing LF but I may start with the West Face of the Leaning Tower for my first solo wall. Way to stick it out though--very tough stuff!

Steve
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  May 23, 2012 - 02:21am PT
Dear, a lovely report.

Aside from the climbing, you, a little bit of a thing, did all that hauling, too. That is exceedingly commendable. You must be a hard person/gal/lass. Slainte.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 23, 2012 - 02:36am PT
I was paranoid and lonely reading a book about being paranoid and lonely.


lol

are you a philosophy major too?
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
  May 23, 2012 - 02:58am PT

Super effort, super TR !

I am so in awe of what women climbers are doing these days
but doing it solo takes it to another level.

This TR made my day. Such a contrast to the mess on Everest right now.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
  May 23, 2012 - 03:22am PT
Bad



Ass


...
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  May 23, 2012 - 03:23am PT
Classic stuff!
I like your style.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  May 23, 2012 - 03:48am PT
Nice job!!
Nomates

Mountain climber
Newhaven.Sussex.UK
  May 23, 2012 - 05:45am PT
Good on you Janey!! Well done!! Just the name of the route would have put me off!:-)
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
  May 23, 2012 - 08:46am PT
Congratulations, way to stick to it. The Captain will bring out the snail eye under the best of conditions. Bravo!!
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  May 23, 2012 - 08:50am PT
Very nice TR. I especially enjoyed the part about chilling out on Thanksgiving L.
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  May 23, 2012 - 09:12am PT
I'd been waiting for this one for a while. Brilliant!
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  May 23, 2012 - 09:56am PT
This was an awesome trip report.


Susan
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  May 23, 2012 - 11:00am PT
Awesome! Nice send. TFPU!
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
North Rim, AZ
  May 23, 2012 - 11:41am PT
Oh- so very nice job up there Jane! I was feeling so grim for you when it kept raining and I had no idea you were actually staying up there in all that. You really earned that summit! Thanks for writing it up.
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
  May 23, 2012 - 11:48am PT
What a great story and a fine accomplishment. Be proud, you have braggin' rights!
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
  May 23, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
This is the proudest trip report I've read all year. Congratulations to you and only you, Jane.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  May 23, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
Great job, Jane, with the route and with the write-up. I truly enjoyed it.
Techclmbr

Trad climber
Greenville, NH
  May 23, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
You are an inspiration! Congrats! Keep climbing and writing your reports, I can't wait to read the tales of you next incredible adventure!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  May 23, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
AWESOME, Jane!!!!

A tip of my Guinness to you!
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
  May 23, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
The lessons you learned on this wall will serve you well for a lifetime.
Good Job
Emon

Trad climber
  May 23, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
Inspiring! Congratulations and TFPU!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  May 24, 2012 - 02:07am PT
Great report thank you for sharing
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
  May 26, 2012 - 12:17am PT
Jane Gallwey is the slowest big wall climber in Ireland.

Tami beat me to it, but I was going to say.

Jane Gallwey is a sh#t-hot bold climber from Ireland.

susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  May 24, 2012 - 03:30am PT
Really nice! Lovely report from a lady who's not afraid to say.....it was lonely and frightening. Great attitude as you joked about the stuck bags yet never said it was hard (and I'm certain it was!) I found myself smiling and truly touched as your daily events were told. You did a great job and kept at it when so many would have bailed.

Thanks for sharing, can't wait to read the next one!

~Sooze

Studly

Trad climber
WA
  May 26, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
Yowsah! Great trip report, fabulous.
nopantsben

climber
  May 24, 2012 - 04:45am PT
wow..

very impressive and touching. you kept it together...
wayne burleson

climber
Amherst, MA
  May 24, 2012 - 06:38am PT
Great report! Impressive persistence despite some rather grim situations...
Looking forward to the next report!
Concerned citizen

Big Wall climber
  May 24, 2012 - 08:34am PT
Jane: Your climb and your trip report are superb, and thank you for sharing them! Everything you wrote about the climbing is absolutely spot-on, and your description of the whole venture makes it a rich experience for the reader. It is also uplifiting to report your chance encounters with other climbers, with legends like Ammon (who is one great guy), with hikers on the top of El Cap, and so on. You have my nomination for TR of the year.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  May 24, 2012 - 11:01am PT
Jane, that was a truly inspiration Trip Report, you are definitely a "Hard(wo)man"!
Jane Gallwey

Big Wall climber
Ireland
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Awww guys (and gals) you're all too nice. Thanks so much for all the positive responses. It's made my week :-)

In other news, just booked my flights back over - which side of El Cap is less hot in the summer?
Cheers everyone!
Jane
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  May 25, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
Wow, just wow.

That is so fecking awesome!

Way to make us all look weak. :0)
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
  May 25, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
I know I couldnt have done it. Way to go Jane! The humility, candor and humor in your narrative make it one of the best climb accounts Ive ever read.
velvet!

Trad climber
La Cochitaville
  May 25, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
Jane! Great read! and glad to hear you're coming back! When exactly?

:)
lib
Jane Gallwey

Big Wall climber
Ireland
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
I'm back from the 1st August til 17th Sept. Where are you at these days? Valley I hope :-)
J.R.

Big Wall climber
Bend, OR
  May 26, 2012 - 02:53am PT
Thank you so much for sharing your great adventure with everyone. Such a pleasure to read.
Woody the Beaver

Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
  May 26, 2012 - 09:24am PT
I enjoyed your TRs hugely. Inspiring, really. I mean really. Maybe if I see you in the Valley I can persuade you to sign my haul bag! Best wishes, and please consider writing more TRs. Thanks!
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  May 26, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
WOW! Way to go. Very inspiring. Thanks for the TR.

Wes
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  May 26, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
I should be back around Sept 12-13, so hopefully we can finally get together for that long overdue Guinness, eh?
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  May 26, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
you know, it's possible you're both the slowest and fastest big wall climber from Ireland
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
  May 26, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Nice!
matlinb

Trad climber
Albuquerque
  May 27, 2012 - 12:08am PT
Awesome. Will be thinking of your TR next time I consider bailing off something.
pc

climber
  May 27, 2012 - 02:06am PT
Great! All the way 'round. Way to stick with it!

Cheers,
pc
Michael Nicholson

Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
  May 27, 2012 - 02:44am PT
Nice Trip Report! Way to hang in there when things got tough, you made the right choice!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  May 27, 2012 - 08:55am PT
Nice. I like this Jane. She gets it done.
roy

Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
  May 27, 2012 - 09:07am PT
A great report about a fantastic adventure. Very well told.
Cheers, Roy
Neil Chelton

climber
Bouldering your girlfriend
  May 27, 2012 - 10:07am PT
This is awesome. A description of real adventure. Your balls are bigger than those of any girl i've ever met. And your determination to achieve your goals is incredible, even when the haulbag gets stuck 7 times on a pitch.

Nice hat.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  May 27, 2012 - 10:21am PT
You are one sick chick. We'd make a good brother-sister pair, seems our genetics are similar (except for the X and y thing). Are your parents also incarcerated?
Jane Gallwey

Big Wall climber
Ireland
Author's Reply  May 27, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Thanks again everyone. I don't think I'm particularly brave (I cry on routes frequently, just ask anyone who climbs with me) I'm just stubborn. Climbing routes like lurking fear which don't have any really hard climbing, in a way makes life really easy. Your temporary wall life is a success if you go to sleep 2 pitches above where you woke up that morning.

And cheers Neil, glad you think I have lady balls. Balls or not everyone needs a silly hat, reminds you not to take life to seriously.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  May 28, 2012 - 01:24am PT
WOW - well done, Jane!
Double D

climber
  May 28, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
Wow... what a tale of perseverance! Well done and well told. I pity anyone who attempts to whine to you in the future... jess say'n. (-;
yahh

Trad climber
truckee
  Jun 8, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
That was a truly inspiring TR.
yosguns

climber
San Mateo, California
  Jun 9, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
That was so awesome!! It was like a really good book...I didn't want it to end. I'm absolutely inspired. :)

Allyson
The Alpine

climber
  Jun 9, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
Why do girls cry on routes?
SofCookay

climber
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:36am PT
Hmmmm. Dudes cry on routes too - did you read Mark Hudon's (no offense to MH) "El Cap Report" thread?

"I rapped down and cleaned the pitch and got ready for the next one and over the next hour tried three different ways but never felt my strength or confidence were enough to help me if I should have to down climb after reaching a dead end. Finally, I rapped back down to my haul bags, knowing what I had to do. I cried and cried for an hour before calling Cheyne Lempe and asking that he hike to the top and throw me a rope.
I cried more that night and also when I saw Cheyne's rope snake over to top towards me.

After reading all of your comments of concern and encouragement I cried all over again."
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Jun 9, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
the sum of the moment
equals the magnitude of
your dream multiplied
by its distance
as removed from the common.

the units of the product
in yer cause
indicate fourth dimension
achievement.
fivesix

Trad climber
Girdwood, AK
  Jun 9, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
That was one of the most entertaining TO's I've ever read! Thanks for sharing! I read it with an irish accent in my head.
Anne

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Jun 9, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
um, you RULE!!!! :)
youri

climber
  Jun 9, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
Nice Climb, Nice TR, thanks for the share!! Inspirational ...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:47am PT
hey there say, jane! wow, i MISSED this somehow...

been too busy, and had small aches of my own, and too many projects, haha....



this was a marvelous job! thanks so much for sharing your life, here...

it's overflowing with tenacity! i LOVE tenacity... (mingled with grace, of course--one sure needs that when tenacity goes into overdrive) :)


very well done... and very well cried...

will not forget this story for quite a long time...
:)



*welcome back to USA, it seems, if i saw the second comments you put here, correctly, that you are/or were BACK here for a bit, :)


god bless!
:)
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:50am PT
NeeBee nails it. Tenacity coupled with grace=glory.
Indeed.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Jun 10, 2012 - 01:18am PT
this is climbing. +2.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Jun 10, 2012 - 03:59am PT
Awesome TR. Very inspirational and well written. Thank you!

Mike Cowper
perswig

climber
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
Don't know how I missed this, but put me on the bandwagon..

Bad-ass, well-written, don't-stop.

Awaiting the next one.
Dale
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
Very Nice trip report Jane and way to stick it out. That big storm that came in was pretty crazy, Rich and I huddled underneath our fly (which wasn't set up) shivering our arses off, while baseball sized rocks were bouncing all around us... nerve-wracking.

I loved how you wouldn't allow any help hauling the last pitch. That pretty much said it all, in my mind. The only way you would let me help at all is when I convinced you that the route was over, just look at the topo.

Congrats on a special ascent that will be with you for the rest of your life. Hope to see you again this year.

Cheers, Ammon
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
  Jun 13, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
I loved reading that and I like the last photo of you on the top. I think you're smiling!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 13, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
Is it just me or does Jane remind you of Abby Watkins? I only ever met Abby once for one our Western Mountaineering slide shows. She kicked ass too!
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
  Jun 13, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
you are the greatest and one tough person.
gonzo chemist

climber
the east coast, for now.
  Jun 13, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
Outstanding job! and a great TR.

Its pretty cool that your fist time up E.C. was a solo mission. I don't think I'll have the cajones (or patience) to solo El Cap on my first trip.

ElGreco

Mountain climber
  Jun 14, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
You are one tough nut, gal. Good on you. Quintessential Irish spirit: positive attitude and perseverance in tough conditions!

Keep them coming!
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
  Jun 15, 2012 - 01:23am PT
Right on! Totally awesome work and very inspiring.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Jun 15, 2012 - 01:43am PT
... up El Cap mostly solo
You're in good company (Hudon's 'Hawk ascent).
Wallwombat

Trad climber
Australia
  Jun 15, 2012 - 10:42am PT
Great trip report.

well done.
Beatrix Kiddo

Mountain climber
ColoRADo
  Jun 15, 2012 - 11:29am PT
Badass indeed! I really enjoyed reading this.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Jun 15, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
Hi Jane,

Impressive climbing and a really nice TR. I think the mental video of you chasing the pig up the last pitch will stay with me forever. Nicely done on all counts.

dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Jun 15, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
Awesome stuff, way to get after it. very inspiring, hope to get up there like that some day.
sullly

Gym climber
  Dec 30, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
Best TR of 2012? "Irish yes, and I like it too." Keep writing Jane Joyce.
Woody the Beaver

Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
  Dec 31, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
My fave TR for 2012. Well, JG's Prow TR was my fave too. Huge fun to read. Thanks and best wishes for 2013!
10b4me

climber
  Jan 1, 2013 - 01:55am PT
TFPU
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jan 1, 2013 - 03:49am PT
Too good for prime time. Jane, you have game.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Jan 1, 2013 - 04:13am PT
Excellent. Great pics of the route.
Bad Climber

climber
  Jan 1, 2013 - 09:54am PT
Damn, well done. And double damn, that noob party taking SEVEN HOURS to lead a pitch and break down their ledge? WTF? Who are these dolts who jump on El Cap having NEVER done a multi-pitch route? Yeah, I'll jump into the ring with Mike Tyson without ever having sparred with a serious fighter. Doh!

Totally loved your tale. You got serious ovaries!

BAd
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jan 1, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
hey there say, jane....

wow, i love this so much... i just HAD TO POST again here...

say, where are you now, and what are you up to?
happy new year to you, and wishing all the best...

:)

*hope to hear more trip share... you did this so welll...
stil miss seing you neat pics, but i DID see about three with you
in them... :)
David C

Trad climber
UK
  Feb 26, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
Hi Jane,
Hope to follow in your footsteps this summer, but over on Zodiac.

And the storm wasn't that bad, just an average day in Scotland.
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
  Sep 13, 2013 - 09:04am PT
I never thought id be very interested in soloing until I read this tr, having said that it would be nice to do it in season to have other friends on the wall!
Powder

Trad climber
the Flower Box
  Sep 13, 2013 - 10:01am PT
Wow this is so awesome!!

What a trip! Thanks for taking us along the journey through your words with you - it feels so real as if I were there experiencing it all.... the joy , the bittersweet side of it, the stubbornness (love it, ) new friendship..... Reading this TR makes a great start of the day - thank you (and thanks to whoever bumping it!!!!!)

Very proud and excellent accomplishment! Congrats!!!!!


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El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Lurking Fear is route number 1.
Photo: Tom Frost
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The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Salathe Wall, 5.13b or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
East Buttress, 5.10b
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East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
El Capitan - The Shield A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Shield, A3 5.8
El Capitan
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The Shield is route number 7.
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