Lost Arrow Spire Tip 5.12b or 5.7 C2

 
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Lost Arrow Spire


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Lost Arrow Spire Redux - Double Vision Deja Vu Part 2
Saturday December 1, 2012 10:56am
It all starts here when I did the lost arrow spire with my Dad...so get up to speed with the background and come along for the ride
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Almost exactly one month after doing the spire with my Dad I went back and did it again with my good friend Mike. Mike started climbing a bit less than two years ago. Mostly bouldering and eventually getting out with a rope a few times. We came to yosemite in August to hit a few classics and get Mike some pitches under his feet. Previously his longest climbs had been the trough once at tahquitz and he had NEVER been to the valley before.

We had a wild time in August that included Mike walking into a surprise dead tree branch near the base of Snake Dike. Good thing he was wearing his glasses or it would been in his eye.

Credit: matty







Credit: matty



After doing the multi-hour approach and not wanting to retrace our steps, Mike manned up and did the climb.


Credit: matty


We got some funny looks on the way down, and lots of questions, which got old quick so we started making up answers...


Credit: matty


"You OK?" "Yeah but you should see the other guy"

"What happened" "Just beat jesus in billiards"

"Do you need help?" "Nope, already got a good therapist"


Later that night to get his double levels stitches, deep ones at the bottom of the cut, then another set on top.



Credit: matty



The next day he climbed Commitment and Nutcracker with his new stitches. Ya see Mike's a tough guy and someone you know you can count on if things get... interesting.

We did a few practice sessions before the spire so he could learn how to jumar and do a Tyrolean.

Credit: matty

When the weekend finally arrived we left home at 10:30PM with everything packed and ready to hit the trail when we showed up at 3 or 4 am.

We finally get to yosemite after driving through the night. Psyched and ready to go we start hiking...half and hour in and my footsteps each thought in my head one after the other...going over everything...


"Mike you remembered to pack your harness right?"

"lemme check" (not a good sign)....."F*#K...NO... NOT HERE"


Well it was not at the car either, and I did not bring a spare. So now it's 5:30am. Too long to wait for the store to open and but a harness, to early to ask around Camp 4. Should we make on out of webbing? The thought crossed my mind, I've done it before. But hell no, f*#k that , I'm not aid climbing and doing a tyrolean in slings, I could if I had to, but it seemed best to just climb something easy today and get a harness in the afternoon.

So we rack up and do royal arches.

Mike led 3 pitches including the famous last pitch, and even better, these were his first trad leads ever!

Having got no sleep friday night we are in be by 8pm saturday and at 3am sunday morning we get up, pack up and go.

The hike went quick and we could use the moon the whole way so it was magical moonlit yosemite, but when we go to the rim the morning winds fired up and it got really cold and windy for a short bit. We walked around to catch the first bit of sun.


Credit: matty



The rap down to the spire was fine...


Credit: matty


... and having just done the climb a month ago I was able to go much faster with a lot less gear.

My rack was...
5 quickdraws
10 slings
1 or 2 double slings
20 free biners
a few lockers
3 offset aliens (each with biner)
1 each camalots #1-5 (each with biner)
1 grappling or cliffhanger hook
2 rivet hangers (or 2 small nuts to use)


Credit: matty


The climb was great. Mike was cool with the exposure and was a good second considering it was his first aid climb.



Credit: matty





Credit: matty



We made sure to clean the tat as we went...



Credit: matty

The second pitch is killer location, but the climbing is pretty boring mostly being bolts. Fun as hell though...


Credit: matty


Last time I was here I took some photos looking down lead...



...but knew I could do better. This time I cam armed with my camera specially slung so that I could clip it into a piece, aim it and hit a self timer for 10 seconds then down climb a few moves and start up again. I really liked the way this worked out and I think I'll use it again...


Credit: matty


At the top of the spire I made sure to pull up as much free line as I could in order to lower back down and get some photos of mike seconding the pitch.

Credit: matty





Credit: matty





Credit: matty




Credit: matty




Credit: matty


We did the easy traverse back to the rim where your jugs are on the line to the rim and you rap off the spire. Clint Cummins describes this and how to do the route with only 2 60m rope in a great trip report here.

We got back to the rim with daylight to spare, packed up and headed out. The drive home was long and dark yet we sat there aglow.

  Trip Report Views: 1,130
matty
About the Author
matty is going to bed

Comments
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guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Dec 1, 2012 - 11:27am PT
Matty, nice one!

That "Badger" dude, sure is a tough f-ker.

Good TR.

C-ya
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 1, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
Thank you for posting. Some of the most satisfying trips I had were the ones where I bring out someone new to climbing, or someone who only climbs in the gym. It's a huge adventure for most. Plus picking LA Spire! Great choice!
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
  Dec 1, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Matty!!!!

TFPU!

I like the last photo.

moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Dec 1, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
very cool!
TFPU
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Dec 2, 2012 - 12:09am PT
Nice shots and good on ya for the tat cleaning!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 2, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Loved the injury answers, Thanks!!!!!
hooth

Boulder climber
Sconnie
  Dec 3, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
Dont forget the guy who did all the work.
Dont forget the guy who did all the work.
Credit: hooth
hooth

Boulder climber
Sconnie
  Dec 3, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
Credit: hooth
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Dec 4, 2012 - 07:38am PT
Great times! Thanks for sharing!
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
  Dec 4, 2012 - 08:27am PT
Good climb and fun TR.
Thanks!
PopLockeAndDropIt

Gym climber
Hialeah, FLORIDA
  Dec 4, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
RAD
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Dec 4, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
Very nice job and TR, with extra credit for tat removal.

Those pictures of Mike bring back memories of the only time I hurt myself on a climb badly enough to need medical attention. I'd scraped my forehead on a 20-foot or so leader fall, and the gash (that required stitches) was bleeding profusely. When we got to the ground, another party saw my condition and concluded my nose was broken because it was covered in blood, and, to their eyes, swollen. I had to explain that, no, that was my nose's regular size, but it did take about 20 stitches to close the wound in my forehead.

John
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Dec 4, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
Great picture angles! Looks like a fun adventure.
hooth

Boulder climber
Sconnie
  Dec 4, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
traverse back
traverse back
Credit: hooth
hooth

Boulder climber
Sconnie
  Dec 4, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
Matt hanging out
Matt hanging out
Credit: hooth
Amicus

Ice climber
Bernal Flats, CA
  Dec 4, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
Thanks for sharing! Hey question. Do you have any photos of how you're clipping your camera in for those top down shoots you got while leading?

"...but knew I could do better. This time I cam armed with my camera specially slung so that I could clip it into a piece, aim it and hit a self timer for 10 seconds then down climb a few moves and start up again. I really liked the way this worked out and I think I'll use it again..."

I'd be psyched to know how you've got it rigged to aim at you and not just hang their twirling in the breeze.

Thanks!
Amicus
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Author's Reply  Dec 4, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
Yes, I think I can get a picture of the rig I used. It was my first time and I have a number of ways to improve it. Perhaps I'll make a new rig and share that one.
hooth

Boulder climber
Sconnie
  Dec 6, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
room with a view
room with a view
Credit: hooth
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